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Stainless Steel Top Diaphragm Cover Carb Bolts Kit - Hyosung GV125 GT125R GT125 GT250 GV250
1 × £4.99
Subtotal: £4.99
♠️ M77
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The top feed of the shell is usually connected to the air box nipple (one of them underneath)
Hopefully on your tests , we don’t have to replace the ECU as its near impossible to acquire one!
Good luck
Hmmm,
If it helps, here is a few spare parts from our ebay
This one is the last one we got and likely may or may not work but i could not test out of the donor bike as engine was removed
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254811047849
If you need just the plate? (Yellow plate goes to the frame, here it is)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254811047849
On your airbox = you can fit a dead ISCV to block the airbox hole and its 2 nipples under it.
If your frame does not have the welding spot to attach the metal shell , then keep using the airbox for your ISCV unit when the issue is resolved.
The metal shell will just be for testing ?
Good luck!
Can you confirm that if the ISCV actually sits inside the airbox or it has its own clamshel ?
I believe you have a clamshell that hangs on the frame to feed air on the 3 pipes sticking out of it.
I have an idea = Put the ISCV back in place and fit it inside the metal shell or airbox = Does it still “hit” the end of the airbox/clamshell?
If you pull it out again, it should have been keept in place instead of springing forth too far out.
Next tip = It will sound foolish but bare with me….
1. If you have a metal shell , put the ISCV inside it and screw it in so the O-Ring doesn’t leak air.
2. BIG pipe going to airbox ==> clean that area (hygiene!)
3. 2 pipes sticking out at the bottom ==> your other hand expose its palm to them.4. blow air with your own mouth (unless you have a very LOW volume air compressor machine , attach pipe to it)
Can you feel air coming out on both bottom 2 metal holes ?(these holes feed the intake pipes anyway)
Turn the KEY ON
Keep blowing
Do you feel the air getting more restricted ?
If you turn the key OFF
Is the air completely blocked (you can’t blow no more)
Turn key on , it should retract backwards ? to the OFF state in the picture while key is on (I can’t confirm yet if the ECU can sense if its gone too far out and must retract it back a little bit but it may engage once the MAF sensor tells the ECU how much air is flowing in the throttle bodies while in stand still to maintain 1800 rpm revs, it’s a little trickier to study Sentec/Daewoo ECU’s than it is DELPHI units)
This is a weird test I am suggesting but you want to confirm , the same behaviour is happening to the NEW and OLD ISCV units ? Always make sure battery is charged though because that fuel pump draws a LOT of power and we don’t want to stress the pump too much also. It’s more expensive than the ISCV unit.
Tap ? = Disconnect the tank and does fuel still pour out ?
Pump ? = Disconnect the pump from the carb => does fuel still shoot out ?It could be trying to burst the floats open and this possible chance the bike will be hydrolocked (fuel inside the oil & piston walls) , so make sure the above are good first , before progressing further. (Don’t bypass the pump no matter who tells you)
There is an ancient trick of using a “clear hose” attached to the float bowls , and seeing if the fuel level inside the hose is heigher than the carb markings , and if so, then you have float issues (float valve jammed , float valve o-rings leaking fuel past , floats bent too high or too low , or may simply need a new float valve replaced as part of rebuild kit. but it will test your patience but you want to be sure the carb is faultless.
You can do this while carb is on the bench and feed it auxilary fuel hanging from the ceiling , just to test before fitting it all back to the bike.
No fuel should overflow unless the bike fell on its side. If the bike fell, then yes the fuel should overflow out to protect the engine cylinders.
Let us know how that goes , i hope i made sense!
Welcome fellow rider!
I will tell you what , I myself have dropped my hyosung within 6 months owning it , only to realize how HEAVY it is and it managed to survive the trip home painfully! – I can feel your pain! This was almost 10 years ago for me though haha.
If the bike is with you, don’t worry about it. Little by little , let’s get going and see if we can resurrect it from its hibernation.
I believe if you have the time, to dig deep around the forum, you will find some topics between the 250cc and the 650cc members , you will get tid bits of information to help with your quest. If not, post a topic anything on a specific issue if you like , add pictures . If you want to do videos, simply upload them to DropBox/OneDrive/GoogleDrive and just get a “public share link” so we can play it on here.
If on youtube , upload the video as “unlisted” , so that it is only found on this forum (not on youtube search)
Be safe out there!
Thanks for the info, ill make a new mod regulator upgrade soon , already got the terminals , send us an email if you want to try (&you being a test rider)
Video uploaded to vimeo (upload there if you can or Google Drive / OneDrive /DropBox other video upload service because we can’t play Apple videos on certain older android devices)
I saw the video, it looks like its slow to rev up as it may be too cold. Now after 5-10 minutes hot, are both cylinders hot ? and is it riding better?
keep the original airbox & don’t fit the aftermarket one , it looks like its idling under 2,000 rpm (which is the default) , that’s a good sign.
Next step.
idling = what is the voltage ?
At 5,000 rpm = what is the voltage ?
At 8,000 rpm = what is the voltage ?Regulator test, so i need all 3 figures above ^ before i comment further.
Looks aftermarket , interesting! – It should be bigger and all black but for some reason the bolts are both there, so it could be an earlier type before Hyosung updated it (Yes, they are known to fail since 2001!)
Follow the plugs and check the connectors.
Also measure the bolt holes apart ie…. (0)_____40cm____(0)
I might do some upgrade version that makes sure it stays “14.5v” constant (no flactuations or droping to 13.5v) , although earlier carb models lived on 13.5V as they had way less electronics , but because you have fuel injection model with a lot of sensors , best to ensure it is 14.v in any revs
If it ever spikes above 14.8v while running = don’t ride it. That would be battery or regulator or stator on the way out (both worth together, so ie. a bad reg slowly kills the stator unit inside the flywheel crank)
Good luck though, it seems as though with the snow all over UK, put her indoors & work on it slowly.
That’s no good, too much rust = easy voltage drop (even a little) , we’ve been there. (or even a sensor somewhere else , having its resistance affected (ohms too low or too high on the wire, the ECU will trip)
Go under the bike and find your regulator rectifier, get pictures of it and also the connectors on your harness.
You have a long job but i am sure it will be worth it, you want “nothing electrical” to have rust , even down to the red battery wires etc.
Hyosung tried but remember UK rains too much!
I believe the “Select” button changes the brightness , otherwise the dash may be getting sun burnt slowly
You could remove the outer shell & change the pespex glass (custom work!)
It’s a very technical job to try change the SMD LEDs used on the circuit board , but some lights may be intergrated inside the actual LCD screen like phones. I personally have not taken apart an actual LCD unit off the circuit board as it’s something I haven’t experienced myself yet (The UK is too dull & dark to worry about screen brightness most of the time)
Brake Pads = Go on Amazon and look for “EBC FA86” That’s the pads. EBC is one of our favourite trusted brands (They make pads in UK & USA) ,
China Pads = Hit & Miss = Some may disconnect themselves off the metal plates! (Been through it, i will never do it again. I will stick with EBC)
You have either:
– Wiring issues (not enough juice flowing on the wires going the sensors mentioned in the tester thing you have) , new harness or remove it complete and clean every part of it with contact cleaner – do the same for the sensors connected to it.
You should have less errors. The ECU is annoyed hence it will keep cutting offAnd make sure even the battery is properly charged & the regulator is doing “Minimum” 14v to it (no less) (even if it’s idling)
Fuse boxes may be rusty too. Including relays.
Or
the parts themselves mentioned have issues / faulty (temperamental behavior). Ie, faulty coil means it works then it dies.
Or
ECU itself has gone faulty , I hope it doesn’t come to that!
Do you have a daytime picture ?
Or upload a video to GoogleDrive/OneDrive then post the “public share link” here.If Ben see’s this topic , and still has it, then he should email me to share his details to your email to sort it amongst yourselves (won’t be a good idea to share private details on a public forum to protect each other’s privacy). I took down the private-messaging feature as i am making a new one that’s more efficient, sorry about that.
It will use the same bulbs as the R version but it may only need 2 or 3
(As Hyosung updated the classic clusters twice) (Sometimes the fuel guage lights up with its own bulb or shared with the rev-counter, but MPH/KMH dial always has its own lighting)Speedometer Instrument Cluster Backlight Bulbs Set – Hyosung GT125R GT250R GT650R
I could grab a few and post them to you ? I forgot the exact names of them as i am on a short new year break.
If in a hurry , pull out the bulb and quickly run to a car shop, they will match it for you. Those bulbs are also used in much older cars before the LED’s became standard.
You can upload videos to Google Drive, OneDrive , or iCloud i believe = Then get “share links” to post them here for public viewing.
I will upload your old videos to Youtube (as unlisted so they won’t be found on youtube search) so it’s easier to play it. (not all android devices canplay “apple” files , so its easier uploading to the cloud drives and they will convert them for public play. Sorry for digressing
I still need to know what’s going on with the situation of restoring the original airbox system back on the bike?
If you look at your current lever vs the XRT ones , you will see the XRT as actually better for the GT bikes with the Gen1 fairing. For Gen2 (2012+) , your lever wouldn’t really bother them that’s why. I’ve yet to find a brand that does better than XRT,
Unless you go use Pazzo levers and master cylinders used on Hondas (expect trial & error!)
Some harleys cannons will fit , their newer models have slim twin cans, but i don’t know their measurments. So it will be trial & error. Also you may need to get someone to make you custom reducer and brackets (eg. 31mm slip on can to 34mm engine header pipes) to fuse them in to your own bike.
I would recommend finding a bike OEM cans as if you use aftermarket cherry bombs (short shorty cans) you WILL lose power. The bike gets annoyingly loud too lol.Happy new year all
You too fella 🙂
Push the master cylinder further AWAY from the throttle switch gear.
Ie…. [top yoke]____[cylinder]___[switch gear]
Then push it away from the switch like so…
[top yoke][cylinder]___[switch gear]Once done, rotate the cylinder FORWARD towards the front tyre , but leave clearance by about 1mm margin, so it will be tight..but hopefully this should help.
The only leaver that requires no messing around is Korea’s approved XRT Levers (XRT is based in Korea & are the “official” accessories maker for the GT bikes) but costly though!
