♠️ M77
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Hmmm,
Do you by any chance have the “OEM” relay and all 4x OEM indicators if possible ? That way , you want to be sure that if the bike stays solid (no flashing), it would mean a faulty harness (I hope not) or a very sticky / faulty switch gear (If you flick left to indicate , the STALK bounces back but inside the contacts may still be sticking!)
This way we can be sure it wasn’t because the bike isn’t feeling the combination of the LED’s and LED relays (some are hit and miss in fairness)
Usually it helps massively to:
– Strip her down nicely , find every single plug on the bike (time consuming i know but it will love you for it) , disconnect every plug.
– Use Halfords Contact Cleaner , to clean out the dirt, rust , metal oxidization (does affect how smooth the bike runs overall due to improve signals after cleaning
_ Give it a good day to dry properly even moisture that you can’t see with a naked eye may still be present.
_ Once fully dry
_ Get a can of “ACF50” (NO WD40 please, unless you want fire) ===> Squirt only a tear drop of ACF50 inside every single connector on the bike.Once done, grab some zip ties just incase, tidy along the frame so that the bike does not get its wire-connectors attacked by rain or water all the time
Bonus points of you can get 3x of these on ebay
(1 = Under Airbox! 2= Left side protecting your LH switch gear plug it still gets exposed) 3= Rear Shock Absorber (protect the stator plugs there and also the brake switch)SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT (that’s its official name and you will find them on ebay or amazon sold by SUZUKI UK Official)
Now you almost can be at ease. Just a shout. Can’t get an 08 harness anymore brand new , Korea stopped making them (they moved on to the GV125-S EFi now) , preserve your GT while you can. This country’s weather doesn’t like bikes!
If they blink at the front , it means you likely need to check bulbs 1st before needing a relay or at least confirm 12v is actually going to those lines ?
Suncoast Cycle Sports USA will have the relay if you call them.
@marcel, ive just fitted some gt650 black forks to my gv650, I have the siler/grey calipers but can’t get them to bleed up…is this something yo do with the forks being different and therefore the pistons in the caliper aren’t reaching the disc, strange question I know lol, you mention sticking with TCTC calipers with grey forks and black with black. Cheers J
Are you able to post a picture of the forks (black ones) please so we see the botton legs so i know if they are truly meant for black calipers or not
I do know GT250R uses black forks and still uses TCTC grey calipers but 650’s need to be specific, as that’s the only CC class where hyosung changed the front calipers
Yes it is. So its nothing to be worried about. Thank you. One more thing i just noticed maybe its a common issue. The rear blinkers dont work but the front one does? Could it be a fuse? Or should i look for something else that is causing that problem.
Have a look at the connectors and verify there is pulsing 12v going there or replace the bulbs inside the OEM indicators (assumed OEM , as you did not say if they are LED aftermarkets)
Indicators use a 3Pin Relay.
The coils are retrograding , if sparks came out (arc’ing) , replace either SV99 or GT650 pre-2010 coils (same coil maker) and replace the caps as a good measure. Readings may be OK but may be arc’ing when running. SV99 caps should fit OK or another set of OEM hyosung caps for now. However “magnecor” HT wires are recommended over the stock black HT wires.
Pulse sensors are not normally changed on their own , and can be a messy process if not sure how to do it without cutting and chopping wires up , there should be loads of posts online about 650’s burning the stator plugs when the connectors have rust in them (resistance goes up!) Clean the connectors as best as you can and try to avoid the rear tyre thrown stones or water at them.
Go on ebay and type in “SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT” , this MUST be used to hide plugs under the airbox and near the rear shock. I do this on all my hyos and customer ones (rains a lot in UK!)
Hyosung used one boot for the headlight (55 watts down those plugs!) , so you will have seen it.
Hmm when did they leave Australia Hyosung themselves and can you ask your dealer why they pulled out ? I get a lot of orders to AU as I noticed due to other scam sites popping pretending to be Hyosung AU when they are really not.
Starter Solenoid = It’s common, the 650 draws a lot from it to start, and eventually the internal parts of the solenoid refuse to lift up to trigger battery power down to the starter motor, hence click click but again , investigate the starter motor => remove it and connect it directly to battery and see if it spins healthy
Battery out of the bike and do it far away cause it can cause sparks touching the starter motor body – Wear electric gloves and eye wear. believe me.
Then drain oil and be sure your sprag system is OK behind the flywheel (sometimes if the sprag-clutch is on the way out, it causes more tax on the starter motor and the solenoid to spin the crank)
0.8 on yellow wires ice cold is fine on the stator = It’s just charging purposes , has no effect on how much the bike can spark. It is the blue/green wires from the pulse sensor. That little black box alone can go haywire at any time causing a whole stator needing replacement again. Keep in mind Delphi stators not backwards compatible, so hope your last owners made sure it was a pre-2010 stator.
Regulator = Only voltage is needed , but if it is a genuine Shingden regulator, you shouldn’t worry too much about it as long as it is above 13.6 – 14v to charge (even at idle) but max of 14.6v (any higher will fry the EFi parts as ECU has very small micro chips in it)
Your picture = Early EFi model (2008-2010 range), you likely have a Mitsubishi ECU (Hence Mitsubishi coil too) or DENKO Japan but either way it will say “made in Japan” unless it says DAEWOO KOREA on it (Daewoo Korea will be fine on that big Mitsubishi coil)
Such a beautiful colour. If its a GT or GV, that cherry red is probably the best colour. Don’t respray it lol.
Welcome to the club! – You did very well keeping her for almost 10yrs , let that be evidence to nay-sayers that assume our bikes last 2 months and die (they usually the types to race the bikes to their early death, can’t take such people serious!)
You’re not alone, we may be in EU but Australia is like the 3rd biggest source of visitors to this site!
The regulator look like we posted it to him, did he buy it from us or someplace else ? Electrosport is OK for stators.
But like with any brand , the stators can still die (the pulse sensor itself) could just have been one of the rare bad batches made , it happens.
Coils = Thousands are made every day from many outsourcing companies for Suzuki & Hyosung.
Go on your own local ebay and get “SV650 1999” (that year only) GENUINE coil, it will have a triangle logo on it and it is the SAME coil used on Hyosung GT650 early models. Mitsubishi Japan is the company that made identical coils for SV650 and GT650 , SV650 is just a more common bike. Make sure the seller can verify readings.
If not, OEM Korea would be best (but then again Hyosung themselves get those coils from Mitsubishi Japan, it’s the same coil)
There is A LOT of bad clones of those coils made from china sweatshops , so you will either have a good one or bad one (or a good one that gets haywire after a while just like the “netrider AU” forum post was saying)
I’d advise:
– Get Genuine 1999 SV650 or GT650 coils that are verified working, they will last a long time as long as the bike or the rain/water doesn’t iritate them– Go to Amazon and get MAGNECOR “HT WIRES” (they are very good)
– Caps , try the OEM SV ones but your current caps seem OK. Just as long as they are not visually cracked or showing signs of “heat fatigue” which kills them too (The hole is deep and it gets very hot there)
– Fresh CR8E plugs again (I know, I know, but if you have sparking issues , the plugs will get shot again, they need a stable 10,000V coming from the ignition system)
– Get that starter relay solenoid and CHECK your flywheel ==> Go behind and make sure there is no odd damage (if the bike tries to start and you hear “thud thud” , investigate the whole sprag-clutch system behind the flywheel or you may have a hydrolock in the engine , change oil and fix the carb (jammed floats or float-seats leaking fuel past their own internal seal causing fuel to slowly drip out of the carb in to the cylinders)
Around 22,000 ohms is generally what hyosung wants at the HT point , the “terminals/lead pins” should be very very low (4 ohms ish is about the sweet spot)
Send me a private email below:
me and my bike club are working to fix it but as i am only able to get parts form them, themselfs it gets a bit pricey but i have found the same engine on ebay thats only done 600 miles and got it for £200 so i am going to put that enigne in and most likey use the old engine as parts for the new one.
You got this!
New stator will be needed now and regulator in tandem (all part of the ignition system as is the frame mounted coils)
Do you have a picture of your current coil? (i will tell you if you’re OK based on the picture of the coil) but with the weird running issues apart from the fixed injectors, the ignition parts may be your next enemies (coil may work then acts intermitently once you ride for a little bit, no way to measure it while riding if its flactuating)
I can attest to the fact that I had fixed customer bikes with OEM stators intact but damn , they starting causing all kinds of issues once the bike ran up to temps (yes its charging but the pickup coil was making a mess of the ECU and ignition coils)
Also consider Shingden upgrade (DO NOT buy an OEM or Aliexpress regulator, you will regret it very quickly! , many riders online can attest to this fact) , something simlar to this below will set you for life.
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
If you unscrew the HT wires away from the coil so it is by itself (Yes the actual HT wire should be unscrewed so the cone has no wire attached to it)
Tell us again the primary and secondary resistance of each coil
Eg. Coil Front
– 0.6 Ohm (less than a single ohm)
– 12,000 ohms (12.K)We can match those with the service manual if its in spec or not. It helps to get a picture of the coils on the bike, Hyosung used variations of coils until they settled with a Delphi Shotgun coil after 2013+.
Hi , this sounds stupid, is it possible that we have no vacuum due to air leak from the intake orings ? Like below:
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
So in essense, the GV125 is quite sensetive to how much vacuum loss happens and makes it very hard to start (and it prefers the airbox systems to all stay joined up down to the air filter itself) (Hopefully it is not running on pod filters as they hate it)
If you’re totally sure the intake system has zero leaks , look at the carbs again and blow the Pilot Jets one more time. The hole for the jets don’t take much to clog them.
Also see the “Permanent Jet” that is next to the pilots ? It is the tallest & skinny jet with the smallest hole, can’t be removed from bike = This controls starting the bike, you want to blow that hole as hard as you can to free up any debris.
Then put everything together slowly , turn on FULL choke, crank the bike while twisting throttle up & down (every quickly!) for max 5 seconds (as not to overheat the starter motor) = you should see fuel rushing down the filter and going to the carbs
It should start….
If not , crank the bike for a few seconds and switch off. Wait a whole 5 mins to cool the starter motor , crank again…. Stop ===> Open the “Drain Screws” and have a CUP under them.
See which bowl is getting more fuel than the other ===> eg. Front carb gets fuel OK, it drains out on the float bowl screw mini pipe but the rear does not drip any fuel out, this means rear carb is jammed or re-do the whole float system on both carbs.
Float height should be around 7.00mm to 7.5mm max (This is when the carb floats are resting on the carb float seats and they are facing the sky (carb is upside down)
Look at this topic and read float height information if it helps below:
Let us know how you get on or if you need clarification on anything I’ve said.
The frame is smaller and different than any previous generation hyosungs that before it. Also it is the “only” fuel injected 125cc they have and all its electronics are locked to the 125cc (they will respond to that specific engine only)
Also, the frame also has mounting points designed around that frame. The frame is a bit weaker than the older generations for sure, so unless you have someone next to you who can cut the frame & fit some other engine from another 125cc bike that uses fuel injection , then “reinforce” it extra hard so the frame doesnt snap or twist or flex (structual warning)
Other engines = All electronics must come from the donor bike, otherwise you will have more hell trying to figure out the electrics.
How much does your garage cost to replace the crank for you ? At least if they do it, you will ride after the job is done.
Fuel Pump could be #1 suspect and also its Relay. But the pump for that bike needs to maintain some good presure as the injectors could only spray as quick as they can based on ECU timings . The ECU won’t tell you if the pump is faulty (if its still running), it can only trigger it on or off.
It brings us to the injector being the next domino to fall. I’d try to clean the injector but be ready to replace it.
Ignition coil = Remove the HT Plug Cap (unscrew it, don’t pull it off) ==> Test only the ignition coil for PRIMARY & SECONDARY resistance. Tell us the values. Make sure the coil is cold.
HT Cap on its own = Measure the wire and the spark plug tip inside ==> Tell us if its 5,000 , 20,000 or 50,000 ohms.
(All OEM caps can sometimes be the reason there is sparking issues , but rarer on a GD as it’s not spoken about as much)I did a couple of tests though I’ll order one now Meanwhile the motorbike is stopped for now Do you know where I could find them?
I could not find one to order yet (out of stock from Hyosung Korea until they make more) , but fix your email please and message me. I will try to get an aftermarket caliper for you that could fit , you could try it.
Ride safe, lots of rain & wind coming this weekend!
Hey, I am sorry about that. Are you sure it is safe to ride like that ? I see a crack in the picture?
Brakes are important, I would not want you on A&E 🚑 if the caliper locks up at high speed or pads fly away, the little screw was to stop the pin from rattling out (It has happend to me before on my GT, but luckily the caliper had 2 pins, so i was able to ride slowly and order new stainless pins & new screws. I always made sure to check my calipers. This is a very bumpy country!)Welcome to the site! Post a picture of her 🙂
By all means , make a topic and tell us all about it, I am sure we will get it going smoothly again. If you have time , have a look at some older threads to see if some answers were there for your specific issue?
Get the spark plug out , when you can and show us the colours, but try again with a fresh CR8E plug only , check if the injectors work properly
You may possibly misfire due to poorly injector? (Something similar in this topic, but it was the injector in the end)
Voltage regulator seems to be working OK for now , so keep an eye on it. Idling at 13.8V is not bad , it’s good. 14.5V should be the max , if it spikes beyond 14.8V i would replace it as EFi ECU doesn’t last very well running too high due to delicate electronics inside. A carb bike will handle 15V but it won’t like it long term.
