♠️ M77
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Welcome Leo!
J&S , not been there for years. I usually visit the doncaster one.
Tap “Shop” at the top of the site and start with the essentials only:
- Oil filter , Air Filter , Spark plugs. Do a service on them.
- Must change (because they have a bad name) ==> OEM black caps for NGK ones and regulator ….. All other electrics should be fine as they don’t usually break down that much , exacept the odd brake switches needing a change (happens to any bike)
Use a YUASA battery that is YTX14BS (get it from Halfords) as they will be newer (some sellers online sell very old stock which is not good battery-wise!) - Chain if it has a 428 set , go to Startrights in Leeds and tell them we sent you. They will sort you out with a fresh chain kit (standard set)
If you wanted something more tried and true , here is a 520 set conversion, that page will explain it all.
Everything else is just a matter of your eyes (beauty is of beholder)
Don’t mess with the carbs UNLESS you know what you’re doing! if she runs and idles perfectly , then the ONLY things you can do for now is:
- Go to halfords and get ONLY “WYNNS FORMULA GOLD PETROL” , pour the whole thing in the tank. And ride.
This will clean your fuel lines, tank, carbs , your cylinders a little bit etc….
Do that once a month depending how many miles you do. - If you see “grey” colour fuel lines , Hyosung said replace them all because they are beyond the 4yr service limit (too old)
With this set here and also this set here
To make the engine last longer:
- EBC plates are good & trusted brand
- Get valve clearances done (or checked) , if you ain’t sure. Myself or Startright motorcycles will do it for you.
Hyosung says they should be checked or adjusted around every 4-6k mile - Stay under 11k revs (They don’t like redline for too long)
- GT250 or GV250 cooler is the #1 gift for the engine, it will really appreciate it. The 125 cooler is “tiny” , plus the 250 cooler is like a shield to stop dirt attacking the soft rubber intake pipes (most difficult part to get!) or rust up the carbs
- Make sure it has stainless exhaust pipes (Black Widow UK make them to this day)
- Michelin tyres are your #1 friend or alternative brand is Bridgestone tyres.
Avons & Shinkos are like suicide bricks!
I am digressing , hopefully i covered most bases and go ride! If you have other questions , ask away.
Stay away from sketchy websites (they have a lot of complaints on TrustPilot) they have “white & blue” backgrounds. If something is very urgent, go straight to Startright Motorcycles Leeds , they are the oldest hyo dealer in UK and i personally buy their stock also to fill some parts in this website-shop.
Definitely stay off Aliexpress too! Someone will tell you you can get cheaper plugs, even they sell fakes , as below: (some chinese sellers on ebay/amazon don’t care either)
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/What simon said , also remember the “right switch” controls the headlight coming on or not for that specific GTR (ones with a black rpm counter and black lcd glass)
(Newer EFi models are “always on” regardless of the switch state)If you hear a “click” from the relay, then power should be going down your headlights.
Check for 12v at the relay sockets.
Thanks Marcel, Appreciate the fair warning regarding fake spark plugs. I’ll ask at the local auto shop for these but to be honest they may be cheaper buying it through yourself. Additional query, changing to these laser versions is it required to change the spark plug covers too and regulator? Or is it just recommended? Just curious to know the benefits of just one component versus the whole kit. Thanks again,
In a nut shell:
- Copper – stock plug – Common and bike was made for it, but easier to foul up and it wanes sooner in terms of optimal sparking. it does not do well if the bike is very moody.
- Laser – Platinum plug (OEM to some Suzuki bikes as they shipped some older suzuki bikes with laser plugs) – Very good for winter (sparks sooner at the slightest fuel entry in to the cylinders, it handles heat a bit better as the plugs are buried deep inside the cylinder heads!, also VERY LONG lasting, I’ve not changed my own plugs for 2yrs! Hell I am that busy with everyone else , i try to keep my own toys as “low maintenance” as possible except for the odd valve clearance check, carb clean and oil service (air is K&N , so i don’t need to change filters every again but i just clean every 10-20,000 miles depending how dusty / messy the air is around us) Seaside air is more sandy! but i am digressing.Here is how to spot a fake from NGK’s own site:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/Here is what they said in a nutshell , go where it says “Platinum Iridium – Types of spark plugs” below:
https://www.ngkntk.com/products/spark-plugs/NGK Caps = Consider them an absolute must have , not just for a marriage to the spark plug’s optimal spark but the “black OEM caps” crack a LOT! and sometimes sparks leak out of the HT cap and i saw it with my own eyes all to often now. Also NGK’s full rubber HT caps (not plastic ones!) are best, and they handle heat a lot better.
The coil itself should just be replaced if it is faulty, otherwise the stock coil Hyosung makes isn’t too bad honestly (better than the chinese clones) as its still made in Korea. Just give them a nice HT wire that’s like 7mm copper, if the factory HT wire is corroded.
Regulator = No one really keeps OEM regulators for good reason, fails too much. If someone has EFi Hyosung i always sell the Mosfet Japan ones, its too important (some ECU’s are just not easy to get hold of, if they get fried.) // A carby motor just blows its battery , stator , fries the harness or you see/smell burning at the side of your leg and you will feel the POP then you know its gone bad.
OEM values are 13.5v-15V carby motors // 14.5V constant for EFi (anything beyond 14.6v is asking for trouble)
Im struggling to remember what the 2 pin connector at the side goes to, it’s definitely not emissions stuff, I have a feeling it might be fuel gauge
@syco – that one has puzzled me too as usually the fuel gauge connector is near the battery.I’ve not come across a 2-pin connector near the front coil in tandem with the side-stand plug. His video shows it but Hyosung blanked it? I suppose it is a dummy plug? (why would they make a dummy plug is beyond me) – I do know US and AU bikes do come with some strange extra bits on them like “canisters” or “black boxes” mounted to the sides of the frame for some emissions control or restriction?
Laser is better. or keep using the stock CR8E
IX is overrated and to be honest some hyosungs just dont like “IX” tagged plugs.
Laser is just CR8E-Laser, beware though NGK plugs get faked a LOT. If in doubt, go get one at an actual car shop / bike shop not online. Youtube should have some clips denoting which ngks are fake and which are real.
At 3o seconds in:
The three plugs i see are for the main harnessThe headlights are connected the right way on that “mini pig-tail” harness. So it just needs to join the big harness on the bike.
The red bullet single wire , also matches the female side of the harness.3-pin plug = speed sensor (the flat one)
3 pin plug = lights (triangle shaped) => frame harness feeds it.
2 pin plug = Parking Light inside the top eye-ball of the bike.So in this case:
Verify that the Triangle 3-pIn plug and 2Pin plug have 12v coming out of them.
Remember = RIGHT SWITCH GEAR turns the Headlights ON or OFF (h1 and h3 bulbs)
The parking light (2 pin plug) is ALWAYS on regardless.
The LEFT switch gear will also control the headlights too (They work together with the right switch). Left Switch just toggles between Low or High Beam.Around 2:00 mark , you pulled out a 2 pin plug , now i am a little lost as i can’t remember where it connects to! – I would “assume” it is for either the airbox sensor or a diode along the harness but…the colour “black/yellow” at the front usually means ignition coil!
Check the wiring diagram for the ECU Connectors for that same “black/yellow” wire and where it goes? I have not seen that on the UK customer bikes i fix, so that’s puzzled me not unless , Hyosung has a funny habit of changing wire colours mid-cycle (they always do!)
Or it may be for the “EGR/AIS” (electric air valve) that takes air from airbox and dumps it to the cylinders near the exhaust pipes but i doubt it!
I can see the manual saying “BY” (Black/Yellow)” with no name to it , it must be left blank itentionally
Can you find a BY on the ECU side and follow the diagram to see where they end up?
I hope @syco (Simon) chimes in! 🧠 I’m having a weird brain fog at the moment
Agree with 10W-40(or 50), but just as important; change it at least once a year, remember also the filter. BTW… does the GV250 have the larger oil-cooler (similar to the GT’s?)
Yes we recommend it to use on all 125cc. Their coolers are too small. So 250 coolers are good. GT250/GV250 use the same big coolers.
Feeling rich?
It is too short , it will bottom out the bike likely. Needs to be around 320mm but spring may be too wide and will scrape the swingarm. Has to be Hyosung YSS (it is much slimmer)
Depending on your device, upload a photo to OneDrive / GoogleDrive / DropBox and get a public share link. Paste the link here so we can see it.
I will redesign the site later the year to make it easier to attach photos on your reply
Source just means “where is the photo” , in this case if i am on the phone , i will navigate to the phone’s camera folder/gallery and select it. The site will pull the image in to the post.
Regards
Can you upload a picture please using the “Add Media” button , as you reply above the white text box ?
Try not to be too close as I would like to see where you’re grabbing it from. I myself or Simon will likely respond to what it is for.
Hi Marcel, do you have some spareparts from GT650s COMET 2007 ? Left handle bar broken and feetrest plate as well
Responded to your messenger request 👍
Click the “Add Media” botton that is on top of the white reply box as you are typing and please let know if you get any errors ? It should work fine.
Upgrades, take a look at the shop (click shop) at the top of the site and each product has about 2 pages long of descriptions on each, some customer pictures and their reviews so you get an idea of their real world experiences with the,
Aftermarket filter = no option. Only stock and it is more than enough to be used on the 400cc , so don’t worry about air restriction on the GV250cc . In fact the bike will hate and force itself to run badly if you dared put things like “cone filters” / “pod filters”.
Welcome , good to have you 🙂
Upload a picture of your ride if you want , just click the “Add Media” button on the reply box 🙂
hi, thanks. will do those checks. I tend to be a bit of a worrier as i’m certainly not a mechanic. it was just on my mind that either the previous owner my have thrashed the engine or that I may not be running the bike in properly. but as I said I do tend to worry and overthink things. lol thanks again
The worry will be appreciated by your iron maiden , I always act OCD around my bikes , don’t be like me who changes oil every 1000 miles (£40 for a Motul 300V race oil or £600-1000 for new engine? I’d rather the oil!)
Stay safe
That’s crazy, every GV i’ve laid hands on both older and newer ones including customer bikes, always had a screw at the back to remove the orange lense cover off.
I suspect you have an aftermarket version ? (unless you’re the only owner and the bike has never had its indicators changed?
Or try a guitar pick to pry it open , but i warn you, if it won’t budge, don’t force it as it will snap the lens of! (unless its an aftermarket version that was glued in after they fitted a bulb inside.)
or try to “unscrew” the cap and see. (Could be a newer twist & lock type)
Look at the snap shot below, this is the real assembly of the tail light unit and bulb is 10 watts (max!!)
Beautiful colour!
I hope you get better sir and still got that fuel inside your soul for more rides as the weather is lovely now.If you put it on Gumtree or eBay , paste the link here so people can message you privately if need be.
The service manual from the GT650 section has the information on seals and tools used to remove valves. You would measure your old ones if local dealer isn’t there?
GT250 uses the 650cc seals. Can’t remember the size of my head, as its not something i rarely check to be fair.
Hope I get this bike running and insured before summer ends.
That’s the plan!
Jets = Hold them in the air , look towards the sky and see if the holes look clear to you then the jets are OK. Probably meant the carb needed extra air inside its passages.
Check float height while at it and make adjustments as this topic below has an image of it
Actually also, order new floats (saves you messing around) and get a new gasket kit (which has new float seats) , essentially the bottom end of the carb is now all new and you don’t have to go there again.
Just make sure no white stuff goes to the carb again , it should always be clear unless you can see bits of crud in the filter (then the filter is doing its job trapping the dirt) , since you have bigger pipes => by that logic , if the pump & tap are good, then fuel should be gushing down hard towards the carb quickly (but will take a few cranks with throttle shut to fill up that filter.
If the filter is full or 50% full, then assume the carb bowls are fully and floats have switched off the seats , the bike can get started.
Get a can of yellow Easy start (2 cans even)
Intake Bolts = Ill send you free. Just send an email or put it in the order notes “Include manifold bolts” , and i may even send a couple extra bolts for the carb if it needs it etc.. No charge.
It should be fine if a vibration that occurs in sync with the engine’s vtwin growl
But a follow-up question?
- Does it vibrate during idling ? (if its cold and warming up, place your hand on the clutch cover and confirm?
- Also, when its HOT –> Hold clutch in and hold clutch out –> Does it change ?
Also, have someone with you for this last test. Ask them to rev the bike in neutral to about 5-6k revs max
Do you feel any vibrations coming from either the left side bottom (Stator/Flywheel) or right side bottom (clutch drum spinning)
If its had its 1st service , Hyosung mandates that the dealer / mechanic opens the top covers to check clearances (valve clearances) as this is crucial for it and also if they can open the clutch cover to check the health of the clutch plates and its Thrust Bearing (if the Thrust Bearing was funny for whatever reason, it would change how the clutch works or changing gears through the clutch may induce some vibration instead of a smooth transition to the next gear)
As you have already experienced riding bikes before the Hyosung, you could make an educated guess/judgement if the clutch feels smooth enough to switch between gears without some kind of vibration or clunking.
I can tell you, if i put a nice exhaust on my GT bike , she roars , moans and shakes but all healthy for her nontheless.
(Would not advice putting rubbish exhausts on the GV as it WILL run slower and the noise it makes for a good headache on a long ride!)If one was to make the GV a little louder, I would just repaint the exhaust to some kind of glossy vht colour then drill the exit hole to a bigger hole, so it makes a growl but enough air stays in the exhaust not to loose power in top gear. I am digressing though
Keep us posted!
