♠️ M77
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Okay since there is no power to the ignition switch
Ask him this:
Can he confirm the regulator “red and green” or “red and black” wire is 12V ?
Can he confirm the “15A” fuse is showing 12V ? There should be power going to the wires attached to the 15A fuses (this is the “normal” fuse)
Other fuses and relays are for things like Regulator , Fuel Pump , Lights , etc… The ignition takes 15A fuse
if not , you may need to further strip the bike down, follow the battery’s red wire specifically , annd see where it stops giving 12V , there could be a break in the harness (kink, burn mark? , shorting? etc)
keep us posted!
Disconnect one until the pump stops working , i can’t see without pictures as Hyosung moves relays around and sometimes don’t label them.
Eg. Disconnect a relay, and your lights dies == Label that one as “Headlights Relay”
Look for fuses , if there is a BOX with tiny fuses inside, the fuel pump one will also be there , if not , you will just see 1 fuse saying 15A for the entire bike but i highly doubt it. Big things like pump , regulators on the newer models are fused since they started using Delphi Electronics.
Hmmm, take a look at eBay AU as its another popular 650 market and also browse eBay EU , if you don’t see them in your app , try a browser and manually type the relevant country such as “ebay.com.au” to force australian listings only.
Interesting, never thought of the Intake Air Pressure sensor to go out , it’s not something that’s a “common fault” , i suppose it just had an internal fault probably or the signal between the connector going to the ECU wasn’t strong or there is a kink in harness leading to it?
Nice work!
It will be in the battery area , so strip main seat off and you will see a rail with multiple relays on it.
On certain models of the GV125-S , Hyosung also puts a seconday fuse called “Fuel Pump Fuse” and is usually 20-30A
So yes you may see either a relay-only or Relay + Pump Fuse (Depends on Hyosung themselves)
Internal fault with the magneto pulse sensor ? (despite good readings) , I had it happen to me 2yrs ago , did everything i could until i replaced the stator. It was charging beautifully on the 3 phase wires however riding it down the street was very knee jerking , then sometimes it refused to start. As soon as i swapped the stator for a new one, all was good.
Clearance check is not a bad shout though , even if it means you get a peace of mind the valves clearances are good until next major service , (if i recall, the manual expects us to “look” every 4k-6k miles and decide if adjustments are needed or not, so probably any extra 30 mins with covers off and feeler gauge just to see.
In your own opinion do you hear anything suspicious happening at the top end ? or just normal valve-chatter (valves are ok and no chains are slapping around etc)
have you checked the fuses yet ? and any thing suspicious under the hood like a burnt plug etc ? It has been a very hot week, so make sure to verify the charging system is good (with real figures please) – Nothing good about OEM regulators but worth checking though incase it fried something else on the bike.
Also check you have 12V at the plug going to the ignition barrel = If zero, check fuse or harness until you see 12v at the ignition barrel plug or report back what you’re doing so far.
Texan in the house! Keep her once the restoration is done , be nice to see some project pictures as you go along 😀
Send me an email, i have a bottom end we are stripping for ebay, the shaft is gpod as gold. Bottom end only because we’re selling the valve-heads (cylinder heads) to another customer.
Least with a bottom end, you have a whole new gearbox and shaft from a 2016 RC that’s done 9000 miles.
Hyosung Korea is not making carby engines anymore , they are focusing on the newer 2020+ GV125-S EFI Bobber cruiser injection models now.
Contact Info:
Does the fuel pump get a little louder as you rev up ? And can you ride it down the street and back when putting the bike under some kind of load.
And incase i forgot if you mentioned it or not, have you replaced the injectors and ignition coils too?
This week i was dealing with a customer GV250 EFi , the front was not firing and the ISCV worked extra hard to keep revs around 15000 which was funny to see but goes to show the ECU couldn’t even sense the coils were dead.
Now the ignition coil actually showed good primary and secondary readings …. = This is the dead coil. ? = I put it on the rear , the the back cylinder stopped firing.
So i was stumped, I concluded the coil had an internal fault despite readings being OK.
Here is funny part , the GOOD coil showed ZERO readings on the HT coil but it was firing up like a happy bunny on both cylinders , despite the manual saying if you get “zero readings” for primary and secondary = replace the coil! It was a day of cursing , i knew both injectors were working as the GV250 only has 900 miles! yes 900 miles 2016 model but it was left outside to rot! , so looks terrible but the engine miraculously still works , so i can finish recommissioning the bike.
I though i could say all this to have another crack at the injectors and ignition coils again.
Welcome to the forum and no problem , your son will love the GV250 , they are not popular here in UK too, but they definitely draw attention!
Hey, you can ignore it if the bikee is working normally.
That is for dealer diagnostics or official hyosung scan tool (expensive and only given to dealers) , normally that 4 pin plug is hidden away in a rubber shield.
So make sure that loose wire does not cause sparks or shorting!
Great find!!!!!
Definitely valuable , thanks for sharing as i missed this one when i was uploading so many 650 manuals.
I kept this for myself too incase my old brain farts!
Is there any chance the bronze rods have any play in them if you could split them up ? as the gold bits may be coming from their needle bearings?
And is there any “play marks” in the piston skirts or the cylinder walls to suggest the pistons shook a little bit? I would look for anything suspicious that’s gold/bronze coloured including the oil pump itself internally?
Keep us posted , sorru to hear about it but well done for stripping it down , some people ride until it blows up!
stay under the redline if you can lol , above 10k rpm you risk valve float and valve sucked / hitting a piston eventually 😉
no need , use stainless hex bolt (13mm spanner) and use NYLOCK nuts on the other side. All my years of riding bikes , the nylocks never gave me issues on the sprocket hubs.
If you change rear sprockets later, replace the nylock nuts again (preventative measure) that wheel will expect everything around it to be firm as a rough riding will just shake things loose if not careful.
Factory GT bikes (whatever size) never came with locking metal tabs, I always see them on customer GV bikes instead.
Thanks will get some more pics done when I get some time to tidy her up a bit 😄 And oops it didn’t look like it posted so I did it again that’s why it’s 3 posts 😂 Street for now but thinking I might get a spare set of wheels with off road tyres, found the combi tyres aren’t for me All the new parts from the shop are working great thank you it’s amazing the difference working electrics make haha
Can’t remember what i sent you at this rate haha, if it helps the shop, feel free to leave a review on the product page itself 😉
I had combi tyres on my GT Naked , it felt weird on smooth roads, very weird until i got on the motorways to do 70+ , it leveled off , but slow riding feels like i was floating on brick 1920s roads , can’t describe it. I said yup! Michelin Anakees are definitely for rough terrains!
Hyosung uses a little bit of loctite-blue on their rotor bolts indeed.
Does your hub still have the O-Ring around it, there is a big O-Ring on the hub , this o-ring is not too important but it would be good to have it as an extra defence.
If the wheel is 100% dry ==> Remove brake disc.
And place a cardboard or clean carpet there, put the brake side of the wheel facing the floor. Now , cover the top tub with bubble wrap or cloth if it fully dry (!) , you can remove your shoes , step on it in to the wheel hub, you will feel a rough click in to place.
2nd if the wheel goes back in the frame ==> The spacers and rear axle bolt will squeeze it in for extra firmness , then spin the wheel to make sure it is ok
Others will be more cautious to use a rubber mallet (a big one) and carefully whack the hub inside the wheel (instead of stepping on it barefooted with the top covered/protected)
Like the gold colour though!
Really liking them blue bits on the bike 😉 I want more!
Glad to hear the bike is still doing well, I notice you have street tyres , so it will stay as an SM ? or will it ever go off-road ?
Go ride though! Summer is nearly over 😭
Sorry , had to approve them manual. I will fix the uploader soon so it doesn’t always need to flag my attention due to too many images (which is a good thing, we love pictures!)
Get a threaded stud welded in there or try “JB WELD METAL” if you want to try yourself , it is possible to rescue it that way too. Now that side of the inlet just needs a nut!
If not ask mobile welder to have a look , and it should still be cheaper than a full engine , i hope!
