♠️ M77
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Not used KEMSOs before, i generally replace the whole OEM thing. Some people have been fine with it as long as it does its job.
The ECU is what will run the pump itself. Unless the pump is jammed internally, it would be wise to just replace it as it won’t be a good idea to do any kind of hacking around to it, it is harder to get a fresh ECU than it is a pump.
I know you said it’s a new pump , if it is “brand new” , then no need to replace it again and issue is likely ECU or other electronics that have prevented the ECU turning on the fuel pump
If the new pump is installed & the FI error is still there, then the ECU either has a fault inside it or the harness has issues (the ECU can’t read some of the sensors on the bike)
Have a look at this too, it’s a rare book but goes in to some extra details about the EFi system :
To get error codes from the ECU, download the service manual on this forum,it will tell you how to do it.
It may be silly to say this but these stop pumps priming :
– Side stand switch (bypass it and join their wires) => If joined already , the wires may have rotted and the ECU can’t sense the bypass anymore.
– Clutch Switch (not worth bypassing, but easy to replace)
– neutral switch (ECU checks it) (can’t bypass it)Welcome to the site! my bikes may be red but i always have a soft sport for clean looking black bikes.
Is it summer time yet over there? We here in the north about to approach a depressing cold season called Winter, so i won’t be riding much unless the roads are dry and the sun is out , if you rode on our UK roads in winter you will understand why I am fair weather haha. Maybe i am just getting too old!
Check the plug connector has not been damaged by water behind the headlight shell?
Check the Left handlebar switch connector under the tank is also not water damaged ? (or a wire broke inside being pulled when you turned right)
Lastly, the lights are controlled by a relay , the relay is 4pins. However , next to the battery SOME (not all) GV125-S have a small black box with loads of fuses , look for the one that says “headlight” and check it (don’t replace with a bigger fuse or you will fry the harness)
Relay = It is needed for every GV125, it’s always there. (It clicks confirming its sending power to the lights) , it will be in a row of other relays controlling the pump, ecu, injectors etc…. It’s not always easy to tell which is which. If in doubt , disconnect one relay ==> if the pump stops ==> put a sticker there saying its a “pump relay” etc.
Also check for water invasions under the relay rack
Also for headlights, if relay gets power = It will always make a “click” sound, if it clicks , then your headlights should turn on.
Usually the handlebar switches control that relay too.Circuit is
“Headlight => Left Switch Gear (Hi vs Low Beam) or “Flash Yellow Button” ==> Right Switch (Turn headlight on or OFF , also RPM counter unless RPM counter is always in “on” mode) ===> Relay clicks and sends power to the headlights. => If previous owner put 100w bulbs => It will fry the harness and everything else and possibly regulator and stator but i hope it is 55w on both bulbsAlso very old bulbs are annoying to the battery and bike won’t start (if bulb is too old, resistances is too high or wire gets very hot) – I found out the hard way last week when a wire burnt my hand for the low beam, the bulb was a cheap knock off that was in the bulb, it worked so i didn’t think much until i fought through 4 batteries to find out the bulb has been eating up too much energy. I learned my lesson to stick with premium brands like OSRAM or Philips if i ever buy another 2nd hand bike haha.
check there is 12v at the brake switches too, if yes ==> check the wires at the bulb socket at the tail light.
Brake light will always turn on, otherwise the bulb is dead. The brake light does not need a relay or front handlebar switch gears, only brake switches turn them on. (Later EFi models have relays for brakes) but you have an older model with less electrics , so it should be easier to diagnose.
Also remove the bulbs in the RPM side , and check they are not blown ?
Well done, i knew something about the side stand area was suspicious. Immediate cuts after 1st gear, the bike panics and thinks you want to ride with the stand down!
Which reminds me, check your stand is up before riding. Many years ago , i saw my friend crash after turning left because his side stand was down!
Can you show me the spark plugs ? = Get new CR8E , and try to go for a ride, come back, let it cool down, show me the colours of your spark plugs , i can tell you if the mixture is good or not.
Also take picture of the side-ways of the spark plug , so we can see how many threads are dark etc. I have a keen eye on these things.
i pulled the injector off and used a nine volt battery to test it while priming the system and it worked so im starting to think either my battery has dead cells and its not giving enough power to the injectors or its the negative wire and possible a break or short in the circuit leading to the ecm. when i first bought the bike i was told it needed a new battery and fuel pump since then i have replaced the fuel but haven’t been able to buy a new battery yet.
Get a new injector too, just to cover your bases but dig around in your country for a wrecked GD250, so you have a full donor bike of future parts too and it will have a spare harness + ecu. It will help a lot. I understand the GD series is not as widespread as the GTR , as beautiful as that bike is , it’s a shame it was a limited production like the St7 was. However, don’t give up on it. When it runs, take care of it and it will always be there 🙂
Hey,
If there is power to the dash itself, this assume the harness’s orange and red wires are feeding power to it.Did at any point the bike had a faulty reg (cooks up dashboards) due to overcharging etc or was there any signs of damage to it that caused water to invade its cracks then fry the circuits
Also, does the “RPM” (Just the RPM side) light up at all? (There is bulbs under the RPM side, they don’t care of the LCD glass is on or not.) the use primarily an orange live wire. In some cases it stays OFF , until you go to the killswitch => turn on the “lights” (headlights) , the RPM counter will also turn on as it assumes you’re in night-riding mode. On later bikes, it’s always ON.
Other Lights = Do you mean headlights ? => Check your relay isn’t burst and the 4-pin relay is getting power to the socket. Also both LEFT & RIGHT switch-gears on your handlebars also control your headlights.
Rear Lights = ? You have not mentioned if they turn on? If the brake light is even on when pressing brakes ? Will wait for your feedback here.
Not that I know of , unless i need to re-read every service manual Hyosung has made carb 650’s , but you can quickly on Youtube & Look at how they balance carbs on the older Suzuki TL1000S & Honda VTR1000F, as some DIYer’s tend to get their hands stuck in (“sometimes” a little better than mechanics at the garage but… use caution).
These two bikes while bigger in CC both still use similar size twin carbs as the Hyosung does (around 35mm-50mm ish bores) , then you will get some carb balancing kits , run your bike until you find the sweet spot it likes.If changing anything, always take pictures or write stuff down, this can help you go back to whatever the default settings were in the carb incase the bike runs worse.
I’m getting power from the ecu to the injector but it’s still not firing it seems like it’s not getting the negative power pulsing
If possible try this: if you could get brand new injectors or spare working injectors from a donor bike seller locally , if the new injectors won’t fire, then it is back to the ECU and the harness to see why it won’t fire the injector.
Usually i wait until the fuel pump is primed then play with the kill switch button 3 times or if the pump doesn’t prime i give the dash a few seconds to sweep up and down, then try again.
Also while at it, double check continuity from the clutch switch down to the ecu connectors and same for the side stand , so you want to be sure the ECU can sense the bypass (thinking the switches are still there, then it will allow you to shift gears)
Turn on the keys , don’t start it , but flick the red kill switch button 3 times and wait for a red light to flash in a sequence.
If it does , count the sequence (ie. 4 blinks , pause , 3 blinks , pause 1 blink) = that would be like code 4.3.1 for example, and we can trace this to the service manual to see what the issues.On a carb version = It would be easy, either thee clutch switch/neutral switch/stand switch cut sparks off as soon as its put in 1st gear. Stand switch usually number 1 culprit , so much so that sometimes a bypass isn’t enough, we have to make sure the wires have not rotted inside badly to the point they don’t contact each other anymore.
Just my thoughts!
Do the tests of checking the harness from injector plug to the ecu i mentioned earlier and i linked a nice pdf above too
Do you get an error code ? or even a flashing red light
Eg. it will blink in a sequence = 5 blinks, pause , 3 blinks , pause 2 blinks and repeats. = code is 5.3.2 for example then we can find out what it is.
Injectors not firing would either be no connection to the injector from the harness to the ecu, so follow the wires and make sure there is no break in them or verify with a meter , test the injector plug to the ecu connector to be sure the circuit isn’t missing (broken)
Also, have a quick read on this one, it may be for a GT but it gives some more information on the EFI system that may be relevant to your situation:
It is very crucial to make sure the connectors are very clean , use a contact cleaner and fully dry as the ECU does not like wet liquids near its connectors, so dry the connector before re-plugging it.
Also let us know if the fuel pump actually turns on (makes noise) when the key is ON etc.
if red light won’t flash on the dash when key is on. Flick the red kill switch button 3 times max and wait.
Keep us posted.
Funily enough, my bike doesn’t have any tps even though it’s and EFI, one less thing to check, I guess. I did find a loose airbox tube to the intake, which I have tightened correctly, and I took the time to change sparkplugs too. The issue seems to have improved, but I don’t know if it’s a placebo or not. Did have the chance to spray brake cleaner to check for leaks since I didn’t have any, but will probably do that, and if I find anythin,g I will check it and if not I will just assume this is the normal harshness o the bike
You’re on the right track! 🙂
Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin.
One is for stator sensor
One is for reg to harness
Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery.
14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual.
Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot!
Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums)
Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
Would you be comfortable taking the SV motor + electrics + harness ? (Work involved⚠️) then putting it in the frame?
I have not used an SV650 cdi but i suspect the two engines will not have the same cam shaft timings as each other. Or that the cdi expects a hyosung cdi
I suspect if SV worked Hyosung would not need to make their own as they did help make the SV on some parts but to Suzuki’s own requirements
