Rear Wheel DRIVE Rubber / Front Wheel Brake Bolts GT650R Wheels
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Bike Model = : GT650R Wheels
G’day guys, just painted some newer wheels. The DRIVE RUBBER on the REAR WHEEL is not letting me put the WHEEL HUB in firmly – it wants to FALL OUT. Can you check my photos & let me know if the DRIVE RUBBER looks installed correctly please. Any tips on fitting that hub sweetly?
Also, i bought new BRAKE ROTORS for the FRONT WHEEL. I bought 12x new BOLTS to hold the ROTORS on. I’m thinking i should add some LOCTITE to the BOLTS. What do you guys think? I DON’T loctite many things on cars or bikes as i like to be able to remove the bolts without dramas. Feel like these SHORT ROTOR BOLTS may require loctitie. Anyone know for sure? Thank you. 😉
TIP: Put NEW TYRES ON before you PAINT WHEELS (as removing & replacing tyres will remove new paint)
BRIDGESTONE RUBBER … so excited; can’t wait. Removed Pirelli ANGELs,
which slide well & have ok dry/wet grip but are not very sporty (more a touring tyre).
-----LaserBeam---->
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Hyosung uses a little bit of loctite-blue on their rotor bolts indeed.
Does your hub still have the O-Ring around it, there is a big O-Ring on the hub , this o-ring is not too important but it would be good to have it as an extra defence.
If the wheel is 100% dry ==> Remove brake disc.
And place a cardboard or clean carpet there, put the brake side of the wheel facing the floor. Now , cover the top tub with bubble wrap or cloth if it fully dry (!) , you can remove your shoes , step on it in to the wheel hub, you will feel a rough click in to place.
2nd if the wheel goes back in the frame ==> The spacers and rear axle bolt will squeeze it in for extra firmness , then spin the wheel to make sure it is ok
Others will be more cautious to use a rubber mallet (a big one) and carefully whack the hub inside the wheel (instead of stepping on it barefooted with the top covered/protected)
Like the gold colour though!
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Big O-ring, that makes sense. I knew it felt odd; it didn’t lock in like it should. I have a new 250 hub & a new 650 hub & neither have O-rings. They will keep it drier in there & make tighter fit. Sweet, Marcel, nice one. I’ll try source a couple & some Blue Loctite; think i’ve only got red.
Do you guys have washers or Loc Tab Washers under your Hub/Rear Sproket Nuts? My original wheel has NO washers & some bikes don’t. But a 3x loc washers would make me feel better. The holes are 80mm apart. Hysoung sold me some they are 20mm too short.
Cheers, i wanted gold wheels all of my life. I almost just painted them black again, even though i had the gold paint ready. I got nervous but i am sooo glad i did it. Gold & black look excellent.
-----LaserBeam---->
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no need , use stainless hex bolt (13mm spanner) and use NYLOCK nuts on the other side. All my years of riding bikes , the nylocks never gave me issues on the sprocket hubs.
If you change rear sprockets later, replace the nylock nuts again (preventative measure) that wheel will expect everything around it to be firm as a rough riding will just shake things loose if not careful.
Factory GT bikes (whatever size) never came with locking metal tabs, I always see them on customer GV bikes instead.
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I’ve got the strong bolts & i did buy nylon lock nuts but they can be a pain to remove. I was thinking about WIRING up the nuts like on race-bikes but it’s a bit time consuming & not quick to remove either. Nylon Lock Nuts it is then. Thank you, Marcel. My bike never had normal washers under it’s normal nuts. When i saw that i freaked out a bit. I fully twist the throttle all the way around and keep it there. I need all this stuff tightened up right so i can survive the ride. 😆
-----LaserBeam---->
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