♠️ M77
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Twin Pipes are the best look for the GV to be fair 🙂 , i would have thought the GV was more comfy than the sport-bike position ?
Closed due to duplicate topic.
Replied on on your other one 🙂
Warm engine is good for testing the cylinder health , cold testing is best when checking the “oil pressure” so you can record the “cold value” and “hot value” as the oil gets thinner and circulated.
Yes fake NGKS exist but sadly i’ve tried other brands , and NGK wins every time especially with their own NGK caps. Just that the “IX” in particular is more overhyped and quite an annoying plug.
I’ve got the same LASER plugs in one of my bikes for 2 years and has not missed a beat, LASER is also OEM to some Suzuki bikes. So go to a Suzuki dealer and ask for a CR8E LASER plug. Suzuki using LASER plugs is enough confidence for me to keep using it. It’s usually NGK’s flagship plug for bikes (also most expensive for good reason)
Here is more info on NGK’s official site in regards to spotting fake plugs:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/if not , go to a BMW dealer and ask for a BOSCH plug to replace your CR8E , as BOSCH is typically an OEM plug to some BMW bikes & BMW cars
Hi everybody.
17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001)
The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
I’m still getting a 0562 code and when I look it up it says low system voltage I’ve checked all connections and everything’s okay so I’m also thinking somes wrong with the charging system
Regulator and Stator ?
Try to test the stator unit using this topic (ignore that it says 125cc, it’s the same principle) and tell us the stator values?Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Battery = Sometimes it helps to disconnect the lights and try again, and have a meter on the battery, if its discharging too fast (the moment you turn the key on), the battery is toast or not enough CCA to crank it ? (battery may be too smaller than OEM size)
You would need to get a whole assembly again and keep the spare pump itself. Get even a cheapo one from your local US bike wreckers and swap over the pumps in to the housing 🙂
There has never been a time a housing got sold on its own.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum! Nice to see the Hyosung is getting popular in the Sunny South!
I would say , open the clutch cover and see if there is anything broken ?
if intake clearances are 0.10mm to 0.20mm and exhaust is 0.20 to 0.30mm = then valves should be OK?
Would you be able to tell if valves are leaking oil through their seals or did it smoke at any point ?
Take a look at this thread as it’s similar to yours in regards to rebuilds
Valve clearance, camshaft, camshaft tensioner – a problem or a serious fault?
Come back to your topic and let us know
125 PSI on both cylinders when its hot, did you chuck a tiny bit of oil in there (just a little) = Did it go up or down ? (piston rings or valve seals?)
Though… if re-installing pistons back in , it is possible the rings moved out of fashion
Normally rings are staggered like this:
======____=====
==____=====
=========___===The _dips__ you see are the gaps in the rings, if they all line up exactly , that can cause further issues. I can’t remember the exact format off my head (have to read the manuals all over again) but check the 125 manual GV125 from this forum or even manualsLIB website for the cartoon drawings of the pistons to see how the rings get lined up. I had to do this last time as the old engine was eating oil (a stupid Yamaha it was!) , thankfully it hasn’t been too hard to do on a Hyosung bike. Just can’t mess with the vtwin-timings!!!!
Those would be just regular threaded little studs that go in to the cylinder heads (at the sides) , then 2/3 nuts just secures then down . You could slice (dremel+cutting disc) them off but be ready to buy new short threaded m6 studs , they are same as the oil filter cover if you get what i mean.
Either way , slide around the cylinders where gaskets are and pry upwards bit by bit , i am assuming the front tyre really chucked a lot of mud & salt at it, and you have a classic case “weather seizure” followed by heat of the engine , causing them to warp and get stuck in there. Go easy though as the studs are steel but cylinders are aluminium-cast metal mix !
Don’t give up yet if you got this far , if it runs in the end you will have more of a sentimental feeling over her than the new bike (possibly!)
Remove the 4x long bolts if not done already , you can’t get any rust in there UNLESS engine was consuming water somehow ? or recovered the bike from a flood damage or something , if it was really badly rust, the 4x long bolts would have snapped trying to undo them inside the engine.
So try a strong piece of a flat head, and pry it upward.
We could possibly have 2 Collar Spacers under the cylinder heads being stuck to the barrel and the crank casing , they look like this:
(Example image from a similar vtwin bike)
They go through the long bolts actually.
Mixture is OK = Center white cone is brown. At full throttle.
Idling rich or burning oil ? = The circle ring at the base of the plug = front engine.
C-shape tip (half moon tip) , coils seem to spark OK. = Nice brown shade.
Threads look black and wet = Burning oil? or signs of engine overheating?
Also get rid of the ix plugs as they don’t really like them but use either basic CR8E or NGK LASER only.
Then show me again ? You want maybe only 4-5 lines of threads dark (normally) but if all the threads towards you finger are all black, either it’s overheating or eating a little bit of oil each time ? unless the fuel is bad ?
Check your oil level and rev it fast in neutral to see if it “puffs out” some smoke ? (VALVE SEALS or VALVES not seating)
or will it smoke if you hold it at 4k revs for a few seconds ? (piston rings , cylinder wall scratched?)
Have you gone out with it yet ?
From basically 5 second clips, i can’t tell much as i am hearing the exhaust more than the engine itself, so i will take a shot in the dark to say “it seems OK?” – Have a ride with it first and feel its behavior.
Also if you can feel heavy thumping on the cylinder heads (like someone is banging the door and you can feel it) , you will sense if the crank and pistons are OK ,but use your judgement and do it when its warming up so you don’t burn your hands when it’s too hot to touch.
Turns out the injector opens when not on the bike everything’s working so I’m looking at getting an injector for it as I believe it’s a solenoid issue with the injector itself got the correct battery ecm has been tested and confirmed working properly. Just got to find an injector for a decent price
It was my suspect too
Hmmm, if the bottom 2 nuts are removed at the side of the fins , then carefully pull the whole thing upwards , otherwise i can only assume a piston is somewhat jammed there.
Get a butter knife , and carefully bit by bit => lift the sides of the cylinder gasket incase you’re fighting a gasket that’s really sticking the cylinder down.
Hmmm, if that nut is running loose, weld it shut there. As i don’t think you need to worry about it UNLESS the “rod” snaps inside where it slides the silver caliper in and out (hence floating caliper)
Yeah those jets are overkill yikes. Even a 250cc is perfect on 95 to 97.5 max , otherwise extra jetting is just making the bike too rich , which isn’t good long term either.
Does it ride well ? And does the sound change as revs go up or down ? Does the sound change if the clutch is pulled in?
If unsure, upload a video to youtube –> set it as “unlisted” , it means no one on youtube will search for it.
Copy the share link and post it here, if helps
Got a picture please of those side nuts under the fins ?
Personally no , but you can get a “thread pitch” tool and also measure diameter of the shaft , that should give you a rough thread size. You can also use the nut spanner size to have an idea.
Eg. 13mm spanner on a bolt means it should be M8 ID x 1.25mm pitch (generally)
I can’t confirm if TE uses reverse threads on the flywheel side as i never owned one, i do know though the right side of the crank either the clutch or oil pump pulleys are reverse nuts.
Yeah I was looking and searched it up and it says it pushes 200lph at 43 psi and oem does I believe 60 to 80 and was wondering if it could be over pressuring the system
While i don’t have the exact figures as I don’t use Kemso pumps , i believe the OEM is around 3.5 bar for the GD series but don’t quote me on that as it has been a while since i did any pressure tests on pumps , i usually just replace them now to save time and effort these days.
I have also noticed that the previous had been messing with the left handle switch assembly (which controls the highs beams, indicators etc) and it hasn’t been properly closed when screwed back on as there is a gap so could it mean that water getting into the switch assembly could be cause the issue e.g. corroding contacts in the switch being pulled when handle bars are turned and have now broke?
Most likely , best to take it apart and use a meter to test the contacts and the end of the plug to check each pin has continuity etc , this will confirm if the switch is totally dead or some contact inside needs sorting or a broken wire inside the switch cable
