â™ ï¸ M77
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I saw this bike for sale on eBay , i missed out on it but hey you have now become part of an much rarer exclusive club because the GD series was more of a “limited run” globally including its bigger St7 sister, generally Hyosung makes GT & GV models , but now these days they are doing GV models in varying sizes.
Keep the GD bike, it was an official race bike in New Zealand races and i only ever met 1 owner in the UK with the GD250 bike , rode together from Yorkshire to Wales in the same day, to my surprise , it is a nippy bike for its size!
Again take care of it and i really like the graphics on it.
Don’t worry about photos , you did fantastic using the external website to host it , next time just copy the [BB-CODES] and our forum will gladly take those [BB-CODES] and translate themt to full images as i just did for your post!
I am in the process myself of slowly revamping the site so that it will be easier to upload images directly here instead of using external sites.
You haven’t ridden for 20 years , so get out there and ride as much as you while we only have maybe 1-2 good months left of mild weather before its too cold to have fun!
I fear that we may possibly have to clean the ECU connectors hard , then dry it off , but the ECU only having a dry clean (air blast only) and try to see if we can use the service manual to trigger a blinking red FI light. It’s that Fi blinking confirms the communication to the ECU and it will tell us the code by either telling us the number on the dash or doing a series of sequence blinks (most likely)
Can you also try to trick the ECU to throw an error code to see why it is not sending sparks ?
Or although the stator shows good readings but could we have an internal fault with the pulse sensor of the stator unit , in such that it can’t tell the ECU’s how fast the drum is spinning, thefore the ECU can’t send the pulses to the Sparking Coils to light up the spark plugs
The ECU should be alive , as only the ECU triggers the pump to prime => which should mean its ready to go? but you have power to the coils which is strange , i would also see if changing the HT caps & HT wires makes any difference incase of an internal fault with the HT wire or HT cap itself.
The last thing to do is a long process of stripping the harness and using a meter to very every “end to end” connection is verified and there is no lost readings in any of the wires you probe to test (incase of a short somewhere along the harness or a broken internal wire that is not visible but the meter would say zero (ie. Fuel Gauge Connector to Dash board – the yellow wire is dead , so explains why the fuel gauge is not telling what fuel level is in the tank etc or the pins have oxidized too much, so need some rescue)
Today I finally received the brake lever I ordered and it is a correct fit for the old one. I did have to force the mounting bolt as the hole in the new lever was slightly out of position. I also put a bit of white grease on the bolt and lever to allow it to operate smoothly.
If someone needs one of these levers, search the part number listed earlier and a couple of sources pop up. I used Hyosung Parts. The shipped quickly. The long delay before I got it was due to Canada Customs processing time.
Thanks for the update , it should help future owners who may get these rarer primas
keep yours alive & have fun now!
Do you mean the “idle sprocket” that connects the starter motor and the flywheel drum ?
(Here we call them “idler gear”) but correct me if i am wrong?
Hey, the link below:
Wiring Tables – GT650 / GT650R EFi ECU Pinout / Wiring Diagram & Speedometer
It may say GT650 , but considering you have a 2010 model as he does, the GV650 does share most of its similarities with the GT650, so use that link to look in to the wiring diagram Chris has made in the other post and let us know if it helped ?
Have you also stripped the harness down to find out where this mystery black wire goes ? Without pictures i am not able to verify what it does as Hyosung uses a lot of black wires in different places even as much as a horn! A solid black wire “could” be the fuel pump (as you said it is on a relay?) but again we can’t confirm until we trace it apart
There should be power going to the coils to spark? (Assuming the bike spins when pressing “start”) , also does the fuel pump prime nicely at all ?
I won’t lie , I have NOT dared myself to take apart a daewoo ECU plug as you said the harness or ECU can’t be ordered anymore , however, i was religious to use the “air duster” or compressed air” on the ECU itself (no liquids!) and also the harness plug
The harness = I used contact cleaner on every socket found on the bike, then compressed dry air on the smaller sensors such as injectors , lambda etc ,
The harness is the only thing that got soaked wet with contact cleaner but i let it dry overnight indoors to be absolutely sure (winters can get very damp outside here in UK, so best to do stuff in a dry area that’s warm) , you’re about to enter Spring season? So i will just assume outdoors are OK for you over there!
Dear Marcel
So I inspected the exhaust pipe and it seems there is a crack before where it appears to be joining the other one before going to muffler. I think I have to remove the exhaust system complete from the engine to take it in for welding.
That would be a good idea as the noises will be leaking through the cracks
Do you have a video of this ? (upload to youtube / onedrive / googledrive and post link here) so we can see what is happening.
And have you done tests to the coils and tells us :
1. Primary and Secondary resistance of the coils
2. Swap the coils , see if the front coil works on the rear better?
3. Do you have NGK caps ? (Sometimes stock caps will cause sparking issues) or just use another standard Hyosung cap again or SV650 ignition cap and try again.Hi will the new hyosung st900 be coming to UK awesome
Do you have a link to a hyosung article showing this ?
ST7 was discontinued a while back but the GV650 lives on and gets a 2025 update with ABS and LED tail lights etc for the EU and Asia markets but no news on UK yet
I am curious about this ST900 you speak of! :-O
oh , make sure both plugs are out of the engine and do it full throttle for a few seconds fully charged, then you get some compression readings.
Also throw a little bit (tiny bit) of oil in the cylinders , and do a 2nd compression test again. Does it go up when the oil is added? (piston rings vs scored cylinders)
have you had any chance at all to do a compression test once you finally get the engine revved up to 2k once hot
2k idle is not ideal but if it can stay at 1800 rpm hot all day, it has a fighting chance.
Go on amazon and get AUXILARY tank , fill fuel in that little cup ==?> connect it straight to the carb , this can help determine if the pump and tap were also being too slow to keep up ?
Do the compression test first but make sure to use the “metal rod” , not the flexi-hose as it can give false readings.
Removing the rear pegs does help yes indeed.
Also the swingarm bearings inside have 2 big spacers left & right with a metal-rubber seal closing both ends. It is OK to use the old caps (rubber metal seals) as all you need is a very good high mileage bike greaase (or high temp bike grease works OK too) , they tend to keep some moisture away. Chain will will spin and keep the left side dripping with a bit of grease escaping the chain, so that left side of the swingarm won’t be as dry to be a concern yet.
Use 17mm deep sockets for the pivots as it is a deep hole on each side. Yes one to loosen and one to hold.
As for the shock, the shock stays in the frame, the swing arm is just locked by the “Y” bone linkage that’s all.
If you don’t have a chain fitted yet , you can fit sockets on each side of the Y linkage , but be ready to use a strong O-Spanner (don’t use “12 sided” O spanners as they will round off the nuts!)
Also use 6-sided sockets for everything on the bike , 12-sided sockets have always been bad on bikes as some stubborn bolts get rounded off quickly , but a six-sided spanner/socket makes things easier.
Not possible to buy a new one now. But look for wrecked GT250 and GV250 in your country or ask a few bike breakers in your country for an ECU
Otherwise , slowly convert to a delphi system (ebay is a good place to start) (Means all electrics change to delphi system etc) , this will be a very daunting process if you have never done this conversion before.
So hopefully you will find the 2008 ECU from GV250 or GT250
Don’t touch GV250 Delphi or GV250 Daewoo , they will not work for you. Stick with GV250/GT250 Sentec as that’s the only ECU that works on both models.
Yes done it many times.
1. remove exhaust trust me.
2. Get a Cruiser Floor Lift thing (this life cruiser bikes) , so this lift will sit on your frame bars under the engine and lift the bike.
3. Once lifted, get breaker bars and torque wrenches and service manual because you need the torque numbers for specific bolts when tightening things back
4. Pivot = 17mm both sides.
5. Rear axle = 22mm & 23mm sockets
6. Bottom linkage = Get between 17mm to 27mm sockets because one nut is bigger than the other.
=== Swap swingarm 😉 but i know it sounds simpler than it looks but take your time , the key impotant thing is to get a bike lift to hold the bike in the air safely!!!
This lift also helps do maintenance like fork changes , shock changes , or wheel changes.
GV250 and GT250 of BOTH of them in 2008 year use the same sentec ECU. So look for GV250 2008 model only
2009-2020 will not fit whatsoever. (Daewoo ECU & Delphi)
once I do all that I’ll figure out how to send a picture of it 🙂
If you can’t upload pictures on this forum , just tell me what phone you use and i will try on my end incase i have to fix any bugs! (it probably means i have to redesign the entire site as its long overdue for a nicer look!)
or just go to http://www.IMGUR.com and upload your photos there…..
Then copy the “BB-CODES” from that IMGUR website , our forum will translate “BB-CODES” to full blown image galleries for all to see on this forum.
Just an alternative idea (any photo website that supports BB-CODE sharing will do, if you don’t like IMGUR’s website.)
Test the stator out put on its own and report back , here is a guide below
Also test the regulator
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says “GT125R†, the results are the same for its Gv125 sister
Test the stator out put on its own and report back , here is a guide below
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says “GT125R” , the results are the same for its 250cc & 650cc sister.
But alas, you really need a shingden regulator (like what you see at this store) or use the OEM one = Aliexpress/eBay knockoff regulators will mean you will be back here telling us about a fried harness and blown battery , i despise those cheap things.
Battery , get a picture up so we see what battery you got ?
Well done, i take it the battery is toast (Cells can’t hold juice anymore) or the relay is gone? or is the pump “jammed?” ?
