♠️ M77
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Hey,
Adding to Andy’s comments , there is indeed a couple of 650 guys on the forum much 1 on of them has owned a 2007 650 GTR for 12+ years from new, so he has certainly got wisdom too he shares on facebook, it is BarrySpeaking of , good that you are back on the bike, all that’s left is good memory excercise by checking out one of the service manuals in this forum , having a good read will familarise you more with the bike & how it behaves, although your mechanic will be working on the bike, least the book will point to troubleshooting , interval checks etc.
When the bike is running normally like a stock machine, that’s good , with the 650s generally for electrics some owners go as far as changing the stator for some Ninja ones.
All CC hyosungs generally have these changed out (& for good reason)
– Ignition Coils
– Regulators
– Better lights (ie. Osram Nightbreakers etc)
– Harness is inspected and extra tape in places will help it get less water attacks
– ACF50 to protect all wiring terminals.
– Better HT Caps
– Better Spark Plugs
– Battery
– Stators
– Radiator Fan (DIY work etc if failing to replace the stock)
– Sidestand switch bypassed. (the most useless device on the bike!)I could go on but some of these things above may indeed cause a discussion with your wallet but usually in the long run saves from cuts from rides or replacing the stock item too frequently, eg. regulators hyosung branded rarely last 1yr without starting to wane…
Generally it will last as well as its maintaned & cared upon , just a shame that my own opinion concludes KR makes some interesting looking bikes but certain electrics would be better off from the japanese lol.
Welcome to the forum, & ride easy out there!
If you’re around wales 10th Aug, you may think of seeing us at the next hyo meet in wales , details are in the events section of this forum . I do hope to make it there myself if not then Pete the organizer is taking care of the herd lol.
Okay i see the dash, it has the mechanical fuel sender
Speedo,
Not sure if it was done before, but if the cable is removed and the front wheel drive has been cleaned off foreign debris, refit it all back & go for a quick test ride.if not, my bet would most likely be that the speedo drive could be replaced for another , if it was new as you said, then the next process of elimination would be the cable itself , before attacking the dash last.
Fuel Gauge,
You can remove the whole instrument cluster off the steering base, be sure to watch the cables.
Loosen the instrument cluster from its own mounting bracket too, as it helps gain access to the fuel gauge under it.
The gauge has 3 wires and short plug going to it, it should come out on its own under the dash for inspection.
With the fuel gauge unit exposed on the table, gently (& slow) push the needle up then see if it comes down on its own fast or slow without hesitation ?Also clean the terminal plugs if there was signs of debris. Refit the whole dash back.
As you ride, see if it still behaves that way again?You can then drain the fuel tank, look at the fuel sender inside the tank, take it out. Some have a small bolt attached to one of the linkages of the float, tighten a little and refit it back.
Clean the plug of the sender to incase of any rust or debris in terminals. The sender’s resistance signal changes as the fuel goes up then towards empty, this tells the dash what level to tell you its at, so good condition wiring helps near the terminals.There is about 3 types of senders in all GT (any cc) (IIRC), some have a long arm float , some have a big spindle type design – You would only know when its taken out. Just be sure to keep the main seal clean from any future leaks, it can be hard to find on its own lol.
Your last resort likely be a replacement of the gauge (dash side) or level sensor (tank). Age can wear down some moving parts, always good to have a look.
Hey Lola & welcome,
Your profile says GTR250 but its a naked you mentioned? So i will assume this is talking about manual speedos (rather than a digital screen)
Let’s try this…
1. Has the cable been inspected? If so (& is new) ,then consider the “speedo drive” which is attached on the left side of the front wheel.
or
If you have a “BLACK” wheel sensor with electric cables, it may be this unit itself but its hard to self repair digital speed sensors. We either clean them or replace them entirely.Mechanical SENSOR (silver in colour usually) has a thick cable going straight in to the dash console.
Do you have a picture of the speedo ? (Click “Add media” above the reply box) to attach one.
Least I can see you have a speedo that matches your bike (& its year/age)It would be easier to comment on the fuel gauge it has , some dashes are digital (meaning the sensor inside the tank is at fault rather than an old school mechanical level display with a red moving needle.)
I will be honest, even both of my hyosung bikes GT & GTR the fuel levels can be optimistic sometimes but they get a bit more accurate once i drop 2-4 bars from full lol.
Let us know how you get on 👍
It may either be your shift forks / praws that select gears. I would have hoped this was a clutch issue (most cases) but that shifting behaviour you describe , reminds me of my ex- kwak bikes with true gearbox issues lol.
Refer to the screenshot pages here, so you see the layout too.
Be careful undoing the nut that contains the gear cam spring, as i’ve learned some were not able to find neutral again , they had to rebuild the gearbox again. But yes a dodgy spring can do that too.
there are 3M clear film pre cut template for various bikes except for Hyosung
You can always get a big sheet of it , and some good patience with heating materials (ie. heatgun, & apply it to the areas where scratches are most likely going to happen.
The tank is painted by the factory in house , does have clear coat on it (not much i say!) –
Are you repainting the tank? Best to prep it well, then when its all painted, the clear coat can be sprayed over, its called lacquar
Or unless you mean a “cling film” type of film that’s transparent , to protect from bags etc?
You can check out getgeared UK, sportsbikeshop, j&saccessories for such things , they may call them by different names, strange lol.I got your message fella, i think i pretty much tried to answer you , if not just give a shout.
The brass screw would strip itself before the silver collar does , but if the jet needle collar is damaged, tapping a thread and using a suitable carb hollow nut is the abyss here, i wouldn’t know many that go that deep lol.
Hyosung doesnt sell them to even dealers lol. Believe ive tried asking around in the trade. Could only get new ones via Yamaha abroad
MotoGB (main uk hyo importer/stockist) doesnt seem to stock em now either 👎
They are called Needle Nut , you will see em here.
Carburettor Needle Acorn Nut (Carb Hollow Brass Screw) :: Hyosung GT125R GV250 GT250R GV125
Hey Tomas,
Just read through the post, but to start the bike and get it running we have to go through the following:
- Battery is 12.8V charged? And isn’t “old” (ie. a local garage can test the battery for free so you know the cells inside are good , not just a volt check) Starter motor draws a lot of juice to crank those 2 pistons, so battery has to be a 14BS type (12-14ah as per books) but i’ve seen folk use 9ah. They don’t last well.
- When you press the starter button = Do the lights dimm?
If yes, then its either the solenoid / starter motor or just a weak battery (though it says 12v!)
If no, then check the harness for these:
– Clutch handle bar switch (not really advised to bypass it but they do lol)
– Sidestand switch (bypassing is highly recommended) it is that annoying.
– Neutral Sensor should be 1pin and the harness 1 pin or 2pin sensor for 2 pin harness. Mix matching is a hit n miss some bike looms don’t react well.
– Kill Switch unit , if moisture got to the bike in winter, check inside the switch for clean contacts and ACF50 (a tiny tear drop) on every electrical plug on the bike will kill off rust and keep contacts fresh. - Starter Motor = Remove it’s LONG black wire, put your RED METER wire on it.
BLACK METER wire should be on the frame or battery negative.
Press START
See if there is power going there ?
If yes, the solenoid must be activated by the start button => so starter motor should spin?
If no, the solenoid may not be working. (Very common) - SOLENOID = If you hear clicks (even faint) when pressing the start button. That outright should tell you that device needs attention or the battery is too weak to crank the bike.
- CDI Unit = As with carb 125s , the CDI will check the parts above ^ before sending any sparks to the ignition coils.
GT250 M815 or GT125 M795 are the only CDI’s that work on carb 125 bikes (all of em). So the 250 cdi you have should be fine if it is stamped with the correct numbers i just mentioned ^ . After all, you said earlier in to the project the bike ran fine with it. A GV/Aquila cdi just wont work anyway lol.The bike will CRANK on the button WITHOUT a CDI and REGULATOR/RECTIFIER. It just won’t obviously spark but this last resort of elimination can help check if the harness is good.
- STATOR = Part of the ignition system. Bike wont crank if the STATOR trigger sensor isn’t working. Grab your meter , switch to OHMS (200 ohms max) then ..
Grab the “BLUE & GREEN” stator plug = Probe the plug
See how many ohms comes out of it? I’ll confirm its good or not.While at it, check how many ohms you also get on the stator 3 YELLOW PLUG (yellow wires) ====> probe those pins , and see how many ohms you get across all 3 pins
The 2 images below are cartoon versions of what i’m getting at , this should help you when checking the harness. You can save the images to blow it up full screen on a phone while working on the bike.
Hey,
With the weekend over, its back to work for some of us , till we ride everywhere again next sunny weekend lol.Welcome , and straight to the GV. I would say if your GV is made after 2008, it will have an ECU as it is an injected model than carburettors & edgetek-cdi.
So do you know what the numbers say on the ECU , that is located under the seat? Hyosung made a few ECUs for various models , so can’t exactly mix & match.
It’s a rare to get a working copy for cheap here in UK too, but certainly i will probably know someone or be able to source one locally (dependent on part number on it)
As you’re in the US. Have you made a call to your dealer for old stock that they might have had from KR Motors (Hyosung USA)?
Welcome to the site, hope you had a nice weekend with that bike now lol 👍
Impressive i have to say , last time i fitted a turbo was to my own cars, but for a bike its usually the famous engine swaps or big boring , turbo projects can work or burn a lot of cash for some!
You certainly look as you’ve put some serious work in, how does it sound? got a video clip?
Hi m8 I carnt even get one from hyosung in Korea 😩😩
Aye KRmotors. Even dealers want more lol. They the ones that make em ans strange shapes for the 125 known to be brittle than 250 ones. I just have to see what the local breaker has later in week.
May get one from another guy in group but will repair it 1st anyway as it has a little crack 😬 125s again lol.
Try also someone breaking an engine in the FB group to see if they sell manifolds without engine. Someone might do. And maybe Tom Chapman on RC125. Customer i know so hes cool.
I am in the process of trying to see if KRmotors abroad will make more of them.
MotoGB here wants £120 per intake which is madness but also busy so order will take a while.
Used copies i sold out and have like 6 guys waiting to see if ill get more used copies to put on ebay. Rocking horse crap now in UK!
Welcome to the site. You must be on our fb group too if not, check out events section in this forum
Aug 10th. We are in wales for another hyo meet n ride.
Dare I say , i like the camo look!!!
Speaking of chopped, i always think of this one if i was to dare jump to a GV project, doesn’t look like stevie wonder did it! 😉
https://www.instagram.com/p/BX31-9Dggj7/
I’ll keep a watch for your journal on yours! – Welcome to the forum 👍, i am sure you are also on the facebook group too
We have a meet in august near wales, so if you’re ever near there in August 10th this year, i may see yours in the flesh!
You could start by making sure the engine side panels are off the frame (put a carpet or something under the bike)
Unscrew the side panels (just the sides) then it will come down on the floor with the middle grill still attached to them (easier)
After that you are left with the top side panels still attached to the headlight brace, so use this diagram below to help you with disassembly/refitting.
The mirrors can come off during this process too.
Hope that helps.
Hey,
I would take down the top cowling fairings to access the headlight.
While its naked /exposed. You will get access to the rear of the unit properly and also checking there is no signs of any internal fault or loose bulb fitting.
At least when the lights shine at the wall , you will see if the aim goes up as you adjust behind it.
Hey.
I know for a fact when it says S&T and other says KRmotors with a different branding , it may not work simply we dont expect every sensor on bike to act with that ECU n the dash.I have not heard a lot of success stories about mixing GV n GT ECU but *some* 650 bikes are known to do that.
250 Carby & GV250 Carby dont allow CDI mixing, i know for sure and harness is NOT the same by a long shot
Your ECUs is best to match the bike its meant for 🤞
Hey Jake. You can send me a message if you want or email me.
A local breaker has them of a 2017 both front rear, i seen them with my own eyes eyes just recently , i am only a couple mins ride to them.
I’m due to buy other hyosung bits off the frame , so if you want the calipers i can pick them up.
If not, you may also try the facebook group where im sure there is 1 person breaking an RC125 but unsure if calipers were present 😬. Group name is *UK hyosung owners* with the white bike at the top.
