Instrument panel – Neutral light -GT650 EFI

[Jason]

Hi again.

Does anyone have internal knowledge of the inner workings of the instrument panel.

My neutral light doesn’t come on I have tracked it down to an internal fault in the panel by swapping out another dash.

From looking at the schematics in the service manual it doesnt look that complicated but I can’t figure it out.

Looking for a bit of advice please?

Thanks

Jason

[Simon]

The efi panel is led so there’s a chance that’s at fault, instrument clusters are normally a right pain to get into, I can’t say I’ve tried a hyosung one but would assume that it’s the same. It will be just a contact inside but getting to it that’s the thing.

[♠️ M77]

This also could be worth a shot;

Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode  (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape.   That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.

[Jason]

♠️ M77 wrote:

This also could be worth a shot; Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape. That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.

Quote

 

I have been able to determine that its in the panel itself.    The circuit board doesnt look that complicated with the cluster apart.

[Jason]

So turns out the LED was shot.  Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.

[♠️ M77]

Jason wrote:

So turns out the LED was shot. Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.

Quote

Do share what you do and your results, i might just pin a separate topic you make for future owners facing the same thing. (sort of like a How To guide)

Do check the other LED’s for the voltage supplied to them and your replacement SMD’s should have the same voltage requirements.  I’ve seen them go as low as 1.5v to as high as 12v for car/bike instrument clusters.

[Jim]

Please take pictures of the cluster while it is apart!

[Jason]

Im currently sourcing the surface mount LED’s.  Im having trouble as I believe they are 12 volt units.  I have found 3 LED’s with brown spots in them which indicates they are burnt out.

[Cobra2]

SMD/surface-mount leds are no particular voltage…(taken care of in the circuit) so any type within size & color is ok (remember they are polarized-only works one way)

 

[Jason]

Thanks yep thats what I’ve discovered as well.  I haven’t been able to get back to this yet.

When I do I will update the topic for all.

[undocab]

Led itself is soldered to speedometer. it’s not a changeable socketed light. I guess its %99 its working.

Does your natural switch work ? Be sure about that.

Speedometer-harness sockets sometimes get rusty. Spray it with rust cleaner and contact cleaner. I had this on my bike.

 

 

 

[Author]

Posts

[Jason]

Hi again.

Does anyone have internal knowledge of the inner workings of the instrument panel.

My neutral light doesn’t come on I have tracked it down to an internal fault in the panel by swapping out another dash.

From looking at the schematics in the service manual it doesnt look that complicated but I can’t figure it out.

Looking for a bit of advice please?

Thanks

Jason

[Simon]

The efi panel is led so there’s a chance that’s at fault, instrument clusters are normally a right pain to get into, I can’t say I’ve tried a hyosung one but would assume that it’s the same. It will be just a contact inside but getting to it that’s the thing.

[♠️ M77]

This also could be worth a shot;

Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode  (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape.   That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.

[Jason]

♠️ M77 wrote:

This also could be worth a shot; Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape. That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.

Quote

 

I have been able to determine that its in the panel itself.    The circuit board doesnt look that complicated with the cluster apart.

[Jason]

So turns out the LED was shot.  Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.

[♠️ M77]

Jason wrote:

So turns out the LED was shot. Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.

Quote

Do share what you do and your results, i might just pin a separate topic you make for future owners facing the same thing. (sort of like a How To guide)

Do check the other LED’s for the voltage supplied to them and your replacement SMD’s should have the same voltage requirements.  I’ve seen them go as low as 1.5v to as high as 12v for car/bike instrument clusters.

[Jim]

Please take pictures of the cluster while it is apart!

[Jason]

Im currently sourcing the surface mount LED’s.  Im having trouble as I believe they are 12 volt units.  I have found 3 LED’s with brown spots in them which indicates they are burnt out.

[Cobra2]

SMD/surface-mount leds are no particular voltage…(taken care of in the circuit) so any type within size & color is ok (remember they are polarized-only works one way)

 

[Jason]

Thanks yep thats what I’ve discovered as well.  I haven’t been able to get back to this yet.

When I do I will update the topic for all.

[undocab]

Led itself is soldered to speedometer. it’s not a changeable socketed light. I guess its %99 its working.

Does your natural switch work ? Be sure about that.

Speedometer-harness sockets sometimes get rusty. Spray it with rust cleaner and contact cleaner. I had this on my bike.

 

 

 

[Author]

Posts