♠️ M77
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I would follow the wires that connect to it, but it is possibly an immobilizer or alarm system. I am not too keen on them unless they use their own battery in secret. And myself personally would not want it taxing the stator and regulator all the time. If you investigate it privately , go see how its hooked up and perharps find a way to (creatively) give its own power source and charge it at home when it is low. Be descreet 🙂
Hi Marcel. You say I need to adjust the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out. I take it this is under a metal blank which I need to pry out? And therefore are the Air/Fuel rubber plugs in your shop to put in after adjustment?
Yes sir, here it is below:
click the pictures in the link to see where the mixture screw is located. PLEASE be gentle, it isn’t cheap and its very soft brass screw. If its tight or wont move, try air compressor or ultrasonic bath to get the dirt out.
Sometimes orings under it have probably cracked away (if you ever see fuel leak thru it or air hissing) (since it is “air/fuel” mixture)Try to add a random picture here or tell me the errors you get from the media uploader of this site ?
Hello,
Yes it is reliable ; due to misinformation and a lot of facebook wannabes out there, don’t be discouraged;
- Engine is made in Korea and is based from Suzuki Intruder and Hyosung has a long history with suzuki from the past.
- Carbs are made by Mikuni Japan
- Frame size is chunky and is based off Suzuki GS500 (no GS500 engines dont fit straight on, Korea made their frames to fit their own engines by force)
However, here is what you should do to have a long life with it.
- Use Michelin Tyres (Pilot Road) , as they are most recommended! and stick to factory size. The factory tyre is 150 section where most little 125s have 130 section mostly.
- Get rid of Regulator and pimp it (Hyosung did not make it, but other korean companies supplied some electronics to Hyosung) #3 failing electric item
- Use Koyo wheel bearings all over even the sprocket drum, you almost don’t have to worry about them for next 30k miles even.
- Use only e5 fuel or it punishes hard.
- Use sintered brake pads or carbon ceramics – Ignore cheap chinese organic pads.
- Waterproof the harness all over so that harsh british winters and their salty roads don’t rust things off.
- Do NOT use aluminium bolts or fancy colours. However, as soon as you get it. Get stainless bolts all over the bike except wheel axles and other big critical places.
- Get USD fork protectors so that stone chips dont hit them and you prolong their life before they leak.
Sometimes it helps to use Motul ONLY factory line fork oil that is 10w , as Korea used 5w which is too soft for our bumpy roads - If the rear shock looks bent, replace it. (affects mostly 2012-2019 bikes) (HOWEVER, Kayaba Forks & Shocks used on Hyosung are also used on the SV) They are good shocks and forks for the Hyosung when they perform well 🙂
- Change oil every 1500 miles max (if you need to be ocd with the bike, the oil is crucial)
- Use ESTER grade oil and it will thank you (Motul Ester or Silkolene Ester) only. Castrol is junk , no matter what the sales man says
- This engine has a lot of bearings and moving parts, the koreans over-engineered it lol.
- Speaking of engine, it has 8 valves (most 125 have 2 or 4 valves max) , so keeping on top of clearances is crucial
everything else is just upgrades and pimping, that is a discussion between you and your wallet 🙂
As long as the basics above are covered, you will be already , otherwise when you get it , report to this forum for whatever bothers you and we may advise.
Go get her and ride safe!
Hi, I’m having the same problem with my Hyosung Gt250R (DELPHI ECU). Could you send me photos of the cable you made? My email is [admin redacted] Thanks in advance, Cristian
Hey 🙂
As it is a public site , i had to remove your email to protect your privacy.
Also the member you want has a new account, you can PM him here
https://hyoriders.club/members/jfarr/You can always create a brand new topic with as much detail as you can past and present history, it will help us understand the situation better , that is if you need us.
If i do not reply quickly , usually Simon who also has an EFi Hyosung knows how they behave and will offer insight 🙂- Both spark plugs out bike was cold and throttle fully open
Try to have the bike running hot for 10mins , i mean hot then wait a few mins before taking both plugs out. Twist full throttle and let us know fella, as compression does change when bike is warmest . Korea hence forward tells us all to do it when engine is warm/hot if possible
Simon makes good points in regards to “process of elimination” , since you have a naked bike its much easier to get to it than a full faired bike in this freezing winter lol
Because you have a GV-S (EFi) model 125cc , go to halfords and buy this:
- WYNNS FORMULA GOLD PETROL CLEANER BOTTLE
Make sure your bike has half a tank (max!) , or 1/4 fuel left.
Then pour all of the formula gold in the tank.
Ride safely on a dry day , slow ride down the streets, then race it up to 60 on the dualcarriage ways, then slow down again,You want the formula gold to be running through the internal tank pump, internal tank fuel filter, down the lines, then making its way to the injectors.
It will do its best to “soft clean” any debris clogging the fuel system.
I use it all the time and works wonders. Do NOT use Redex or any other ones you see in Halfords. it must say “Wynns Formula Gold Petrol Cleaner”
Failing that, EuroCarParts should have a store in your city and go to them for it also. It’s a popular item for EFI cars.
(S) in your bike model means it has Injectors than carbs (older GV125’s pre-2018 are named GV125C = C means Classic/Carby)
Use E5 fuel only because even if the bike is designed for E10, the bikes and cars in general run better on E5 . There is nothing positive about the extra ethanol in the E10 pumps. If anything it will make certain bikes run weird.
Also Keep us posted since the caps and plugs were sent to 2 addresses , i had a feeling it was you anyway! –
Remember as good as the Lasers and NGK Caps are, you need good coils 🙂
If your coils are failing, the new plugs will foul up as the NGK caps aren’t getting enough spark energy from the coils. The coils will probably be the last electrical item to worry about.
Test your battery at idle and 5k revs rev-up ===> make sure meter says 14V constant. If less than 13.5V, (in any revs) , replace regulator as per service notice by Koreans
Next conversation , (after above ^ is done first) , is exhaust system , air leak tests , etc … i will explain it all in due time.
How was the compression done ?
– Was the bike hot first ?
– Both spark plugs out ?
– Full throttle while cranking for compression?I will have advise after your next answer 🙂
good afternoon. aguila 125. with a standard jet (87.5), the quality screw is unscrewed by 2 turns. how much you need to unscrew the screw if you put the jet 90 ???
Hey,
Mixture screw should be left alone because it is a 125. 90 is a good jet, go ahead and upgrade it 🙂
Haha, it’s okay fella, you can quote certain text or whole message from a person’s reply.
Or just reply normally when you see a white box right at the bottom of any thread , just as you would making new topics too 🙂
You can open the bottom dirt trap of the fuel tap and remove tap from the tank anyways.
Use carb cleaner to soak it through all over it and check ON/OFF/Reserve operate smoothly when twisting the knob.
Spray carb cleaner inside = nothing should come out of the output hole.
Spray carb cleaner inside & switch to “ON” or “RESERVE” the liquid should flow out easily.Even the australians discourage new members on facebook from using such sites , i do not recommend them as they are just wishy-washy. Honestly , there isn’t much i can’t get. If my oldest UK hyosung dealer (what is local to me) or Sinnis UK or MotoGB UK can’t get it from KR Motors Korea , best believe Korea isn’t making such part or they have suspended production temporarily. It is true some random websites out there might have stock for certain parts , it might just be old stock they bought up.
It’s not just blue/white sites being a scam, some of they do actually ship products but they take months or customer gets wrong parts in the boxes. I get told this all the time. I was approached by one of the sites to do business , i said no.Email me a proper list of parts so that i can see what i can do for you.
The carb rebuild kit includes the “float seat , float seat screw , float seat plunger tip”
Black floats are in stock and sold separate on the site shop , even the Needle for slides or NEEDLE JETS (where slide needle goes in , and has acorn nut on the other end etc) – I try to put as much of the common carb parts on the site as possible, if something is missing i will get it for you or advise accordingly , i will look out for your email.
Do not worry about idle mixtures, once you put the Size 20 Pilot Jets & Upgraded Main Jets ===> Set it to 2.5 full turns out from closed stop, then this is a setting forever.
The “STARTING JET” (the jet that can’t be removed inside carb body) is what will start the bike first.
This video is 100% our carb but imagine upside down 😉
Hi Marcel, many thanks for your reply and advise. I’m very interested 520 Chain conversion kit, how would I know for sure that this fits my bike? The owners manual says it’s a GV-125S but I can’t see any mention of EFI. The parameter list just says Carburetor/Injector type 28239162. Thanks, Nik
GV125S is EFI (Electric Fuel Injectors) , because i made that distinction to prevent customers making wrong orders (Ie. A carb person buys parts that only fit an Injected model)
GV125 up to 2019 is known as GV125C (C=Classic/Carby)
GV125S (known in other markets as GV125-S , GV125 CBS (as it has CBS brakes) , Aquila 125 EFi)if your bike looks like our shop pictures (and has a rear brake DISC not a drum) , then yes 100000% it will bolt straight in as i will make sure of it 😉
So parts for the GV125-S will always have a thumbnail/icon of the GV-125-S itself.
And a separate category for current and future parts is here
https://hyoriders.club/product-category/gv125s-efi/I will be listing some new parts for the brakes front and rear either tonight or this week, so keep an eye on that section!
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ? Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel, I only use E5 (BP Premium) yes checked the trap each time and always clear. I was only away for 5 day’s and it has seized up, every time it happens I strip it down but there is never any sign of a problem, really can’t understand why it happens!!!
It sounds like as a precaution , it could be time to just change it out if that’s the only issue on the bike. Actually, its not uncommon either for vacuum taps for GTR bikes to crap up early on so you ain’t entirely alone in this
Ideally you want the tap always shut when the engine is off , so there is no fuel in the cylinders overnight or hydrolock happens or soon seized piston rings as fuel has mixed with oil overtime.
Have a deep sniff through your oil filler cap just to make sure, you know a strong fuel smell or oil looks watery and jet black.
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ?
Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel. Thank you for the replies to my questions. Very helpful.
I have one anomaly with my carbs – the back one has a main jet 87.5, and the front 90!! Reading all the articles I can on your site, it seems it should be the other way round. Should I just leave the 90 in the front and buy a new jet for the rear, and if so, what size?
Secondly, I wont do anything unless I can get the black tar and gunk out. The carbs are a mess! Can you suggest a dissolver that might work? I will try to find somewhere with an ultrasonic bath but don`t know if that would work.
Thank you again for your help.
Mike
Hey mike,
if you had seen the Jetting tutorial, you will be okay to use 92.5 front and 95 rear.
87.5 is very lean for the 250 but it was done by Korea as some countries have emission laws for imported bikes.
In my opinion, the bikes should be 92.5 and 95 because a factory made GT250 uses those jets straight of the factory.However, make sure mixture is 2.5 full turns out from closed on both carbs. Never touch this ever again forever (regardless of bike’s mood or engine woes)
Factory mix is usually around 3 turns.Do you know anyone locally that fixes bikes ? They should have an ultrasonic bath machine and they will do it for you, it usually works unless there is serious rust on one of the carb parts inside the body.
If its just black goo , tar, it will usually come away eventually , consensus is that we tend to clean the carbs hard twice with a sonic bath , and finally an air compressor (as per service manual)
FUEL OVER FLOW TO THE ROAD / GROUND
FLOAT BOWL MINI HOSES = FUEL DRAIN (To do this before removing carbs)
It dangles down to the road.See this link on how to drain fuel before removing carbs
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Last picture…. FUEL PUMP yes correct 🙂“GREY PORT” = Vacuum input from intake rubber pipes.
“GOLD PORTS” ====> They have an arrow marked for fuel direction as you can see in the imageNow , please look at this tutorial below to help route the “fuel” pipes (gold ports only)
Please ignore the fact it is GTR 1255cc , it uses the same pump as a GV250 carby , Korea just moved the pump to another location
When the engine is cranking , make sure the fuel tap from your tank is switched on , and within 5 seconds (max or else starter motor overheats & more wear in the crank)
You will see the fuel shoot out of the pump in to a bucket when you point the hose down to it (the same hose that is meant to send fuel to the carb itself)Hope this helps ?
HiFLo for me. The K&N “oil filters” are made in china (it will say in the box or catridge itself) , (well most oil filters are anyways) so don’t expect it to be made from US soil.
However the exception is their K&N AIR filters , they still have a plant there in US
I would stick with HiFlo or OEM Hyosung filters 🙂
single disc bikes have a small front master cylinder. double disc bikes have almost double-sized front master cylinder.
Correct 🙂
Hey, welcome!
When i was doing 520 orders for customers , they themselves and some garages used a bike jack / mini lift to rise the whole frame up. See the customer gallery images on the link below;
520 Upgrade Chain & Sprocket Kit [Conversion] :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi [Injected Models from 2019+]
Amazon usually has these types of products, sometimes called Motocross bike stand / jack up lift kit. I say Amazon because some orders from there have this thing called 1-day Prime, so you may even get it next day for urgent jobs.
I am not sure how many bike shops are in your area , but worth checking out to see if they stock it themselves and try it out?
I know you don’t like the scissor style ones, how about using Jacks to prop the bike up ?
