♠️ M77
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Can we see any pictures of it ?> and what damage is on it ? It should be possible to still save them!
Also Korea has “made sure” their engines run perfectly with the carbs they intended for , so sky is the limit if you try to use other branded carbs but also engine wants “twin” carbs , and there is the issue of
- Airbox accepting other carbs (Hyosung’s hate pod filters and will force you to use the airbox back)
- Intake manifold were designed in a way they expect the original carbs to sit on them.
Hey ,
It isn’t really “restricted” per se but because it is an EFi system that’s on a DAEWOO ECU (2008-2010) era
It should have- 2 Lambda Sensors (front and rear exhaust pipe)
- Temp Sensor in the front engine head
In the past working on customer’s 250cc that was a 2009 , it did not like the fact i tried to install a K&N high flow air filter (drop in catridge to keep same airbox) and exhaust pipe changes , the exhaust gases leaned out, so the bike ran worse and leaner.
The engine was doing 90mph healthy but when i eventually got rid of the EFi system and went all carby, it still was doing 90mph, the exhaust upgrades + air filter + bigger carb jets and the like, the bike pulled quicker (a little bit more) , but top speed didn’t change much (this is on stock gearing for comparison)
It is the OLD Grey 250cc engine’s that are 2004-2006 that go to 100mph very easily. Just the nature of them. Weird if you ask me considering they still use the same internals as the efi ones in terms of pistons, crank and clutch.
Your DAEWOO ECU would be difficult to tune as there is no tuner that wants to do it and DAEWOO is out of business now (hence 2013/2014+ bikes or 2012 started using DELPHI ECU systems, but alas , if we add extra air or derestrict the exhaust , the dyno must happen and A/F checked so the engine doesn’t lean out.
It “could” survived with a stock air filter , black widow exhaust pipes (made in UK) or make your own freeflow pipes and “must” use an exhaust can that’s the same size as the OEM one and with a baffle hole the same size as the OEM one or little bigger.
A lot of people got away with changing out parts and say “bike is fine” , but they end up with more wear later down the road of its life.
I guess it depends why you ask the question vs what issue is present with your current stock 250 as it is ? Let us know 🙂
Hey,
Sequence is Front Intake Left Side , Exhaust Right side = 2 bolts. Then screw them almost hand tight, put the rest of the other 2 bolts in the head ,
sort of like a criss-cross fashion as Korea themselves even do with clutch and other places of the bike as per their manuals.
Torque specs for all 4 super long head internal bolts is = 11nm-15nm (alumnium heads vs Steel Bolt!) , let the wench click twice to be extra sure and don’t force it more.
The GT650 uses a different hub and rim and chain length etc.
So if you wanted a kit from our shop, just pop me an email , i will find out what we can do for you and shipping cost to Norway and how long it takes us to gather the kit together
I’m glad you asked as I’ve been wanting to do a new chain kit product range for the GV650 bikes, i’ve not forgotten about them!
Most people just seem to stay with belt drives!
You’re more than welcome sir , don’t worry it happens , that’s why i was quick help! – I know GV-S and GV-C aren’t the same bikes anymore, understandable.
Hey , if the chain kit did its job, that’s good music to my ears!
Enjoy the warm season to come ❤
Maybe upload a video to Youtube like this…..
- Set video as “UNLISTED” , it won’t be on youtube’s search pages.
- Copy the “SHARE LINK” of the video (ie…. youtube . com / watch ? = 1234556 ) without spaces and brackets anyways….
Then come back to this forum, paste the link here
It would help if we can see how it’s behaving from the moment you start it, how it sounds, the health of engine (valve chatter etc) and give it a few rev ups so we see how fast or slow the rpm needle climbs down to idle.
Don’t give up on it.
It should show how much psi it is, as Hyosung’s can behave iffy to start if compression is low but it’s good to be extra sure!
Get the airbox off , get a can called “Engine Easy Start” spray (Starting Spray) , then as the engine cranks , spray starting fluid in the throttle bodies , keep a distance as it might spit some back out , but if it roars for 5 seconds , we might have to look at fueling again.
And although I assume you know how to get error codes from the ECU, try and trick the ECU to see if it has any new stored codes that are preventing it from starting
She could just be proud of you lol.
Don’t let her ride off with it and take your keys even!
girls like red too!My Hyosung gt125 comet is still paying up when it starts and revs fine when it’s warm but when I ride it down the road the bike just stops like when I hit full throttle but when I’m not riding it bike revs up good any ideas what’s wrong with it dash goes off as well ?
The carb needs an ultrasonic clean by the looks of things , it will really pay off and will thank you for it.
Also “the rubber intake MANIFOLDS” , might need fresh O-RINGS that go under them to avoid air leaks or vacuum loose when bike goes in to gear (that’s called LOAD)
When it’s idling, it has no load, so nothing is stressing the engine too much so to speak , just to idle it.
It could be the carbs that are waiting for the fuel tap (as it sounds like it is wanning) (common) and also the fuel pump.
It could also benefit from some fresh fuel lines all around and also check the “fuel filter ” is facing the right way ( as sometimes a filter facing the wrong way, actually restricts fuel flow) , but replace it anyways if in doubt.
Also check float height is dead spot on at 7mm (not more , not less ) and also if in doubt, replace the fuel floats , float seat, float valve = That will no doubt ensure the carb now has “uninterrupted” fuel flow as the revs & speed increase.
The bowls may be clean, how about inspecting the slides and slide needle ? Here is a mod below that helps the infamous 6-8k dead spot
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
I did take it for a ride to the end of the road forgot how heavy the bike is to push out my gate lol
Hey, it’s a big girl lol.
I am very happy you got that far now , so i guess this time its just a matter of replacing old fishy things for new stuff , don’t throw away the dash though , we might take it if its unwanted, i might experiment with it!
For future reference , we can repair cables and actually refurbish them properly and when you get it back it will be silky smooth and like new ish , sometimes choke or throttle cables do get sticky , it happens to any motorcycle really. Lube up the cables well.
Speaking of weight , be a good chance to check all bearings are good on wheels including the sprocket drum (especially the sprocket drum)
Happy days though, well done!
Efi, no carb, ty.
I am suspicious of the stator unit
Because if you have a “2012 GV” , it will most likely have a “DAEWOO” (out of business) ECU, and subsequently , it means the stator unit is also made by DAEWOO.
However, it is possible to replace it with another OEM unit of the 2009-2012 era . After 2013 Korea switched to the DELPHI electronics on the entirety of the most EFi 250s globally until present time. Some chinese replacement stators are hit & miss, so i can’t really comment on that. However chinese regulators is a big no no.
However we can’t have nothing dare fry up that Black Gold of that super rare ECU!
Hopefully the item (crank sensor) that is part of stator you have acquired will help fire it up!
It may be “too cold” to get an accurate reading as it should be done when engine is hot , but grab a good compression tester (not a chinese ones) and check compression on both cylinders and let us know what it says too. (on cold)
–email removed— Uwani office in Enugu Nigeria
Go to the bottom of this website and click “Contact” , and send full address details please and I will check if its possible to ship there.
Looking to de-restrict a 2012 GT560 EFI model, have heard that an ECU remap is needed after the bracket has been removed from throttle body. Is this needed or is the mechanical mod enough? Cheers
I don’t think it will need remapping since the throttle plates basically stop the bike winding up to full power , so the bike is just on a “leash” so to speak but unless in NZ they have done extra things to it to make whatever local licenses valid for the bike & rider in that respective country.
Otherwise, if in doubt , you can always Dyno the bike and also have its A/F checked out at exhaust pipe to see how its burning well.
The problem solve or not please?? The same problem with my bike hyosung gtr250. Wet with the rain and won’t start
water has entered the front engine spark plug hole , so make sure the Rubber Dust Cap is fully covering the hole (very common) as they can vibrate out sometimes.
Also front engine is subject to water attacks to its HT wire, ht coil, ht cap, = Replacing these parts helps if the resistance is not in spec.
OEM CAP = On its own (max 10k ohms)
Ignition Coil = Primary & secondary (without HT cap attached)
- 6,000 ohms max as per oem (ht wire of coil to the ground)
- 0.02-0.10 (less than one ohm) between ground the the terminal pin.
Sometimes being naked, it helps to add some extra layers of tape to waterproof the harness and use “ACF50” in every single connector on the bike, it will thank you for it.
Update, checked all connectors, electrical spray, all seem ok. Still just cranks, hear a little try only if open throttle just in option as cranking. I have spark, i am going to replace the pick up for timing in alternator case, just to see if helps, even though it looks ok, has resistance and i have spark. I have spark, injectors spraying, have compression, it can only be timing issue, or air fuel mixture off? All sensors ohm out good, voltage correct per manual values… i wush i could just try a new ecu, no wires look shorted to ground ect, all connected… Aarrggg any help appreciated…
it sounds silly sorry for asking
If the injectors are confirmed to be spraying , that’s good, fuel is coming out.
What about the sparks ? are they bright blue sparks or yellow dimm sparks ?
Whatever you do, don’t bin anything , if it can’t be fixed, send to us up north and we will deal with it!
Gotta to save these big beauties now, not many left on road 🙁
I’m David from Nigeria
, my uncle bought Aquila gv250,but for some years now it has been parked cos there’s no where to get the parts, the throttle cable and clutch cable are broken.Send an email with your address
or a “postoffice / drop off location” for us to send parts to , then you go pick them upWe will see if we have any UK shipping companies willing to post to your region and how much it costs.
You will get a PayPal invoice for it too.Regards
PS. Do you have bike shops in your region , that can fix cables ? or have a “cable repair” kit so you can go back on the road until official parts come ?
Okay thank you for the help I have ordered spark plugs and intake pipes and new fuel pipes and filter as it’s still got old ones on it and vacuum pipes I’ll let you know how I get on.
new Intake rubber pipes or just the O-Rings ?
If your inlet-manifold pipes have split, send some pics and ill advise if its okay for you to send em to us (then myself & my cnc man will see how best we can save them/fix them) , they are very very valuable things now these rubber parts!
So much so even MotoGB UK sells them for £140 each (the real Hyo UK, not the FakeSpares website). Other places in Europe charge £110-200 a piece, plus there is the taxation rape to import them lolLook after them 🙂
