Any help thanks – GT125 RC
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Welcome to the site and happy holidays!
Can we ask ? (to get some understand of how it came to be)
- Total Miles on it
- When was the last time the carb had an ultrasonic clean?
- Any chance the inlet rubbers under the manifolds have cracks (Spray easy start on them to see if revs change = leaks)
- Any chance the “ORINGS” under the inlets have been replaced by now ? (CLICK HERE)
Bad orings and bad inlets = directly affect how the bike runs and how it starts aswell, its loosing / leaking air.
(Air VS Fuel (your carbs + fuel tap + pump) VS Sparks (Your coils, regulator, HT Caps, Plugs) - How handy are you with a multi meter to test electronics on your bike (Easy stuff to do but it helps you know if the issue is fueling or air or electronics that’s holding her back)
What kind of speeds do you get ? How does it finally start (tell us what you did to get it to start eventually?)
Do you use E10 ? (I reallllllllllllly hope you only use E5)
Let us know!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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Editing my quote below from previous reply as I believe we’re getting somewhere now.
- 8K miles. Good , it is young. Check your V5C logbook to make sure engine number is the same ?
It will need valve clearances doing as it’s done every 4k miles.
Tight valves = hard starts, bogging bike.
Hard to escape it. Only way to fix this is to sort clearances if possible.
Every 125cc motorcycle is like this, 650cc can get away with longer miles between valve checks. - If you are sure the carbs are clean, then ofcourse, it will be shown by how clean the pilot jets are by light shinning through pilots and the slides will lift easily with little drag.
- Big rip on airbox ?
- Any chance the “ORINGS” under the inlets have been replaced by now ? (CLICK HERE) Bad orings and bad inlets = directly affect how the bike runs and how it starts aswell, its loosing / leaking air. (Air VS Fuel (your carbs + fuel tap + pump) VS Sparks (Your coils, regulator, HT Caps, Plugs)
- How handy are you with a multi meter to test electronics on your bike (Easy stuff to do but it helps you know if the issue is fueling or air or electronics that’s holding her back)
What kind of speeds do you get ? How does it finally start (tell us what you did to get it to start eventually?) Do you use E10 ? (I reallllllllllllly hope you only use E5) Let us know!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
- 8K miles. Good , it is young. Check your V5C logbook to make sure engine number is the same ?
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Use e5 forever. E10 will just ruin everything later even piston rings, as it looses speed as time goes on. = Valve Clearance time & Compression test time. Can’t be avoided. I’d do this first before worrying about the carb, you want the engine proper sound first. get hard figures , don’t trust anyone who doesn’t write it down.
Change the oil. (Open your “oil filler cap” near clutch cover, if you smell fuel = change the oil to Motul 7100 , 300v , 5100 or Silkolene Comp 4 , Hyos love these oils)
Castrol ? = Run away from it.EGR Blanks are sold on this shop for the engine side.
Airbox side = block the hole going to the EGR.
EGR is useless these days for carb bikes.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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Use e5 forever. E10 will just ruin everything later even piston rings, as it looses speed as time goes on. = Valve Clearance time & Compression test time. Can’t be avoided. I’d do this first before worrying about the carb, you want the engine proper sound first. get hard figures , don’t trust anyone who doesn’t write it down. Change the oil. (Open your “oil filler cap” near clutch cover, if you smell fuel = change the oil to Motul 7100 , 300v , 5100 or Silkolene Comp 4 , Hyos love these oils) Castrol ? = Run away from it. EGR Blanks are sold on this shop for the engine side. Airbox side = block the hole going to the EGR. EGR is useless these days for carb bikes.
so I will have to take it to a bike mechanic as I don’t have a compression tester or valve clearance tools
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Use e5 forever. E10 will just ruin everything later even piston rings, as it looses speed as time goes on. = Valve Clearance time & Compression test time. Can’t be avoided. I’d do this first before worrying about the carb, you want the engine proper sound first. get hard figures , don’t trust anyone who doesn’t write it down. Change the oil. (Open your “oil filler cap” near clutch cover, if you smell fuel = change the oil to Motul 7100 , 300v , 5100 or Silkolene Comp 4 , Hyos love these oils) Castrol ? = Run away from it. EGR Blanks are sold on this shop for the engine side. Airbox side = block the hole going to the EGR. EGR is useless these days for carb bikes.
so I will have to take it to a bike mechanic as I don’t have a compression tester or valve clearance tools
Let us know what PSi each cylinder makes when the bike is warm, but please caution that certain garages in UK are not that nice towards hyosungs! – If push comes to shove send us an email and come to west yorkshire , we fix them up!
I do hope your local garage “at least” has fixed older GSX bikes and GS motors before touching a hyo, if they have worked on Daelim Korean bikes aswell, then i may “just” probably have some kind of confidence but if you can, go watch them as they do work on your bike.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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Hi Tom, If you can get 80 mph out of the bike it’s not running too bad! Is this when bike is cold as they need full choke to start and take a while to warm up anyway? Mine has always done this from new and has only ever been run on super unleaded( well worth the extra pennies!) Hope this helps, Dave.
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Gt125rc
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