♠️ M77
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I don’t know what the sound format was, just recorded it on WhatsApp! Can’t remember what the site said, I think it just gave an ERROR and can’t load that file!
How odd, email it to me and ill check it out. If its a recognizeable format, ill flag the site to just allow it from your account. It probably panicked thinking it was a trojan lol
The parts on the site mainly have a “swap and go policy” , so if i mention your bike and its year , it is guaranteed.
Ie. Air Filter from K&N with Jets to fit GT Carb 125 – That would mean every GT125 up to 2019 as they all have the same airbox and same carbs.
But i totally understand because i sell two types of stator kits , 1 stator kit is for old gen bikes and it will not work on RC 125 bikes because Korea “on the sly” changed the flywheel. It took us 6 months of testing our bikes and research to know the best flywheels and stator kits are compatible with the RC 2015
RC = Any GT 125 that has an LED rear and slim panels at the back (from 2010 to 2019)
GTP = “P” denotes the naked version of the RCOld Gen = old grey engines from 2003 to 2007 and old body plastics at the back and a massive curvy back light.
Send me an email , if you want sales advise for anything on this store.
For general help on fitting parts and troubleshooting, just make a new topic anytime on this forum , myself and others will chime in 🙂 – Some answers help other new riders who may fall on your topics too.
If the square block inside the swingarm is greased a little bit, it helps.
It is “normal” for it to go up by 1mm max , it’s to allow some clearance.
As Simon says , it should be a tight slot or the caliper won’t move at all 😉 if the axle is moved again for chain tension adjustment.
Thanks Marcel. I’m so loathe to take the carbs off and do it as you said! I was thinking of a cone filter but there’s no clearance!
The problem with cone filters has been happening for years and was discussed in another hyosung forum (but its shut down now which is a shame) and also facebook hyosung groups and my own experience.
I’ve tried so many ways believe me, i really have and so has everyone else. The Hyosung 125 twin forces you to keep the airbox system. It will never be happy or run right if it has pods and it doesn’t help with carbs being upside down (that’s the design and the nature of CV carb allows vertical rows of carbs to power multiple cylinders if space is an issue etc)
hence forward even this shop only sells “replacement” catridge filters to go on filter covers and customers still retain the airbox.
I feel your frustration haha.
It’s now all about “how meticulous” can you keep that intake pipe and carb from requiring frequent removals off the chassis 🤐
Hey,
In honesty Laser Plugs or CR8E are the best ones for the RC bikes (newer shape models)
The old gen 125R are a little less common now (it’s the ones with grey engines and old shape panels) = They don’t mind using Laser, IX, CR8E.
Dare I say with my years of experience servicing hyosungs here in Yorkshire, i can flatout tell you the new gen 125RC are the hardest things to start if the following applies
- Clearances out of adjustment (any engine that hasn’t had it done in last 4,000 miles has to have it done)
- Compression low
- Carbs fouling
- Clutch switch bad (don’t bypass it)
- Bad coils, bad caps (very common, yes both the coil and cap take each other down)
- rusty electrics.
As you have a 2016 RC , i would honestly say Laser or CR8E is the best way to go. They don’t like “IX” (blue box) ones because they are either good for 5k miles (peak) then they wane fast , or if they foul or get annoyed, they don’t perform well in the RC engine and henceforward starting nightmares. I’ve not seen an RC have a good day with bad plugs but i have had more faith in the old grey engines to keep on going even if it felt like it has 1 cylinder left lol.
I have digressed a little bit as purely my opinion , i’d say stock CR8E or Laser grade. Though, the stock ones would do just fine, just make sure the coils and caps are in good spec and the battery is 14v idling , 14v at 5k revs and ofcourse a happy carb 😉
Though , i’m thinking of trying VPOWER NGK plugs , on a spare engine head just for fun and see what the A/F ratio is and what temps the exhaust pipes make from ice cold vs stock plugs just to see if i can move up from laser ones.
It’s time someone designed and made a new one that can be fitted after carbs. Come on engineers, someone make one!
You can technically do it like this;
- CNC BOX made out of metal.
- 48mm(ish) rubber slots (from some other bike you hunt at salvage yard) under the metal box with 2 holes.
- Carb sits on the metal box
- Front of the metal box has cnc welded metal pipe with a short rubber boot to hang on to the side-right air filter container.
Then you can do away with the complicated plastic box 🙂
That’s why my tutorial advises the plastic box and carbs to mount first and tight….. the slide intake pipes from under 1 by 1 , i mean if you do it often it becomes easy and routine like.
The stress comes from being delicate with the rubber pipes that can easily buldge and split!
Was the sound file an MP3 format or something or did the website uploader give an error ~? – I’m always willing to fix any hiccups.
I am very happy you got her running , what more can i say after all this. And hey no need to buy a carb body now either , just look after your current one 😉
Are you able to attach any pictures on here using the “Add Media” button on white reply box below this page once you sign in.
It is for you to point your hand or tool object towards the part of the brake system that is moving and i will advise accordingly ?
let us know fella.
Hey,
Welcome to the site 🙂If the engine starts and it is idling OK , that sounds good!
It may sound stupid but forgive me for asking?
- Is the belt okay and attached to the wheel?
- If you increase the throttle (twist up), does the wheel even spin at all when you have the bike on its Center Stands or Jacked up in the air?
- Has anyone replaced engine or electric parts to it lately ?
Keep us posted sir! – It will also help future buyers who may stumble on this thread 🙂
All the best wishes. As before, i did see it and i can say what a stunner it is!
If you have a comet that has ON/OFF tap (Silver Frame type) = Just clean it out well as it does its job quite well. When its OFF, there is zero chance of hydrolocking the engine anyways
As dodgy pumps can STILL allow fuel to the carbs if the tap is left on the ON position.
If the frame is black and tap is “Vacuum” type = Disconnect fuel hose (safely!!!) , if it pours out while the bike is switched off = Just replace it.
Hey,
Cons
- If the tap gets faulty , it will try to force the dodgy float valves open if so much fuel (ie. full tank) is trying to rush through
Then fuel flows down inlets (wearing them down a bit) it is still a weird rubber thing but complicated to buy enmasses (hence rarity)
Then fuel makes its way down the engine
Then we have hydrolocking
Then at some point, fuel constantly mixing with oil = hotter engine, soon gone crank bearings , etc… Nothing good. - If the tap is OK, but the float valves are fishy = Problem above still happens
Pros
- Less pipe work. Less vacuum lines. (Assuming a tap is a simple ON/OFF type.
For my experience with the 125cc (mostly fixing customer ones) , there was never no need to bypass what Korea does.
– Better vacuum tap (precaution thing / preventative maintenance)
– New fuel pump (if customer one is bad)The bikes do 80 indicated (likely 72 GPS) with everything stock , there is NO power gains bypassing the vacuum pump , the carb will drink the same amount of fuel until the floats shut up the door for fuel entry in to carbs.
I do personally think those that try to outdo Korea’s fuel system have other issues with the bike or just feeling frankeinstein or being cheap skates and the next owner is going to be annoyed at someone taking shortcuts. It’s just my 2 pence really haha.
Carbs are Mikuni Japan = They have enough power to run a 400cc. They are almost overkill for a 125cc but they don’t like poor jobs & like to be clean.
Pump is the SAME one used on a 650cc Hyosung (hard facts here) = So if they say bypass it on a 125cc , their pumps are shot that’s why 😉 or they half-arsing it.The 125cc will not exceed the capacity of the Mikuni DF52 pumps (hell even SV650 uses the same DF pump as hyosung does) , both Suzuki and Hyosung use Mikuni Carbs = You will be alright here with the 125cc Hyosung specific BDS26 carbs.
The Fuel TAP = Made in Korea , it works. But can fail sometimes. So we just upgrade them. Fuel pumps ? = They last well. (What kills em is E10 fuel, long standing for years or owners using chinese clones of the pumps)
I am digressing 😀
Hey Nicolle, welcome to the site!
Hopefully we can help. Sorry if this is a bunch of questions but it would help narrow things down, so take your time!
– As it’s a 2013 = Does your ECU under the seat say DELPHI or DAEWOO or can you post a picture of it here >?
– What size battery is it and which brand/make ? (Sometimes knock off batteries will drain away fast)
- Does it have any accessories ? (Heated Grips, Alarm, Immobilizer, Trackers etc…that could be on juicing the battery down)
- When you switch on the key , do you hear the fuel tank do any buzzing noise ? (Eg. the sound of the fuel pump priming to start)
If you got the right side of the bike , open its cover under the seat for access to relays , you will see “4 pin” relays that are blue or black inside.
Swap them over
Eg. you see 2x plugs that use the same relays , swap the relays , this way we can see if that changes anything.
Relay 1 = Headlights (4Pins)
Relay 2 = Fuel Pump (4 Pins)If your lights work, remove a relay until the lights don’t work (headlights), then swap the relays around , then hopefully that working relay will switch on your fuel pump.
Also another trick,
CAREFULLY unplug the ECU from the harness , be as gentle as you can.
Get “Contact Cleaner” from any car shop or auto shop
Spray a little bit of contact cleaner inside every single connector you find on the bike, every single one. Just unplug , spray them.Also get a can of “Air Duster” or “Compressed Air in a CAN” , spray inside the connectors to blow everything out and dry it out. Then connect parts back to the bike.
CHE error means communication issue usually to do with dash not sensing the harness or ecu not sensing the harness but sometimes its other parts on the bike.
You can also disassamble the “Red” Kill Switch block at the front gently and remember how the stuff was connected before.
Use contact cleaner to clean the switch out. It is okay to unscrew the buttons out slowly inside the red kill switch , then blast them with contact cleaner & air compressor can , === CHE sometimes can be ignition related (Kill Switch block and Ignition Key wires under the airbox too.)
I hope what i have so far helps ~?
We do also have a “Service Manual” on the forum , if you’re interested in studying the bike further ~? It is below:
[Download] GT GTR 125 250 R Comet Carby & EFi Service Manual & Hyosung Owners Books
Get the one that says “GV250” / EFi , its the last link.
Good luck , and keep us updated & happy belated new years!
Hello Andy, Good to have you here 🙂 & Happy belated new years!
Let’s crack on , so you have the bike , that’s great, perharps can you upload some photos on here ?
– The bike itselfAlso, go to the engine, see the front engine ? –> Now next to the rubber manifold holding the carbs , you will see a date stamped on it.
Take a picture of that engine mfg dateThirdly,
Engine number is directly above the stator casing on the left side of the crank , it will say something like GT125-234568 = I will guestimate the engine’s true age from there (but it would not surprise me if Korea makes engines in random numbers)
We do not need to see your VIN number here on public , thats usually for the GOV to know that anyways.
It may be a little tricky as i’ve seen even 19 plates and 20 plates still get registered after jumping crazy hoops , it is because the laws changed before the covid era where “all bikes” that run on 125cc engines with carbs needed to have registrations done. After 2019 , it meant new bikes being registered had to have fuel injection, CBS or ABS and what not to please Euro4/Euro5 laws in EU, which for some reason UK still obeys them after all that brexit mess, ….weird but whatever…
Moving on, you will eventually get a plate from DVLA , i am sure they probably have an un-used 66-68 plate available or a custom plate assigned to it , in either case , this site is an owners club in the sense its a social platform, we have not had to issue certificates dating the bikes , unless they for specifics of how we should “produce” such certificate ?
Regards
It’s the part arrowed in the pictures above that we talked about, Marcel. Think I’m going to need a new front carb body, if that’s possible!
Send me an email please as usual. I am away for new years but should be back at work this week to check my workshop , i do have some carb bodies but will need to double confirm compatibility for your 250 & the state of them!
Let’s try to avoid spending £500-600 for a new carb with taxes , it’s a lot! However, not Hyosung’s fault, it’s made by Mikuni Japan anyways.
I asked for a picture so that i can see how bad it is and i was praying that your carb can somehow be saved, it can’t go in the bin whatsoever. It’s about to get as rare as Rubber Intake pipes now that the world has gone to Fuel Injectors.
i digress. I am old school. For whatever bike i have, i keep a spare carb to myself or least a full donor bike to myself lol.
Sorry about your day!
Do you have a picture of the bike so we can see what variation of the 250 you have ?
Welcome to the site!
Sorry to keep asking questions Marcel but should there be a hole in this item (white arrow)? You mentioned a very small hole, but I can’t get cleaner or anything through it, or feel where air might come out, and I’m loathe to refit until I’m sure it’s OK.
cof It’s Okay, if someone falls on to this topic , they will be happy for it and for you for getting this far . Ask whatever you like!
Yes there should be a hole there…. how about this ….
Find in your house, garage or some car store . A wire for speakers.
Strip the wire until you see individual copper strands . Get one single strand , make it straight .
Then poke inside that Starting Jet , if its clear, it will literally go deep inside and stop.
Then get a carb cleaner or “air compressor” rattle can with a tiny straw , like this ……
You will hear a nice hiss down the bottom of the carb
or
if using carb cleaner, as before spray the golden jet and you will see fluid come out on the side of the silver collumn it sits on deep inside the carb 🙂-
Use e5 forever. E10 will just ruin everything later even piston rings, as it looses speed as time goes on. = Valve Clearance time & Compression test time. Can’t be avoided. I’d do this first before worrying about the carb, you want the engine proper sound first. get hard figures , don’t trust anyone who doesn’t write it down. Change the oil. (Open your “oil filler cap” near clutch cover, if you smell fuel = change the oil to Motul 7100 , 300v , 5100 or Silkolene Comp 4 , Hyos love these oils) Castrol ? = Run away from it. EGR Blanks are sold on this shop for the engine side. Airbox side = block the hole going to the EGR. EGR is useless these days for carb bikes.
so I will have to take it to a bike mechanic as I don’t have a compression tester or valve clearance tools
Let us know what PSi each cylinder makes when the bike is warm, but please caution that certain garages in UK are not that nice towards hyosungs! – If push comes to shove send us an email and come to west yorkshire , we fix them up!
I do hope your local garage “at least” has fixed older GSX bikes and GS motors before touching a hyo, if they have worked on Daelim Korean bikes aswell, then i may “just” probably have some kind of confidence but if you can, go watch them as they do work on your bike.
Because the carb has orings inside the throttle shaft, choke plunger, valve float seats, there were extra freebies incase you did a total disassemble of the carb to pieces!
In this case, you can just keep them as spares for future. I just throw in as much as i can in the gasket kits.
They look good! They don’t need orings those Size 20 Pilot Jets. Just a very clean hole, as by now you have seen how tiny the center hole is!
(Sorry we can’t use more than Size 20 pilots as even size 25 will make it run very rough and too rich.)
Size 20 will do for now 🙂
“Starting Jet” = Permanent. Must be air compressor as hard as possible as the that permanent jet has an even smaller hole then the pilots.
Funny enough, it is also needed when the bike is running, as heaven forbid the bike stalls mid-way through a journey, it will help you start, it reaches furthest in the float bowl, also has an exit on the sides of it (deep inside the carb)
Here’s a hint,
Get carb cleaner & attach a straw to it (they usually come with one)
Spray inside the “Starting Jet” , you will actually see the carb cleaner squirt out of it deep inside the carb’s silver walls where the “Starting Jet” sits on. Hard to visualize , i know but it will make sense when you try it.
Then you know the starting Jet is not clogged anymore!Oh I forgot to mention that revs didn’t change and engine stopped as soon as throttle touched – not surprising with only one cyl going! Fuel. I have no idea what E5 fuel means. Here in Spain it’s 95 unleaded or 98 octane I use 95
Use RON98 , the more premium the better 🙂
E5 (97+ octane) petrol.Here we have changed from RONS to E’s , so its either E10 (which the hyos hate, old cars hate it, some injected bikes/cars have a love & hate relationship with it)
or we use E5
