♠️ M77
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Do you hear the Fuel Pump under the time priming?
Is there a red Fi light on the dash too ?Also check & swap relays around, sometimes if one of the 3 or 4 relays behind the seat panels blows out, the bike then doesn’t activate anymore.
Also check these
- Clutch Handle Bar Switch
- Side Stand Switch
- Connection to the ECU is very clean and there is not 1 single loose one (1 single loose wire can throw everything off)
Does it say F-1 or Fi (Fi is fuel injection system) (including what i said about the pump above ^ )
I Also shared on Facebook.
I guess you not keeping her for one last summer ride then ? 😉
we will be going to get a new volt meter tomorrow, ours conveniently bit the dust. But the starter clutch has almost half of the teeth missing. Not sure how anyone managed. We pulled the triangle and opened the seeve, more oil came out but no metal chunks or anything came from there. Definitely needs a new oil filter, the kid we got it from flooded it horribly. Gasoline mixed with the oil so much it smells like we dumped gasoline all over everything. The chain on the bike needs adjusted, it’s missing a caliper on the front. The battery is zip tied on, gas tank and carbs aren’t even hooked up which makes me worry about the carbs, now I’m thinking for that we may need to take it to a shop, what do you think?. It’s a project bike that’s for sure but I’m ready for it.
If you can get yourself some carb cleaner , would you be able to clean the carbs out hard and also use air compressor to blow out every small hole inside the carb , then for your parts list will just be “carb rebuild kit”
If no metal shavings fell out, i best hope they are inside the oil filter , i mean looks like he hydrolocked the engine with flooded carbs and fuel and the 650 tried to crank , causing its teeth to shear off from the sprocket behind the crank, this is my theory unless the kid admits it!
Poor thing damn, if you’re ready for it, the forum is open for questions and topics , you will be making us happy for rescuing it 👍
Poor girl 🙁
Starter System
Magneto SystemHow handy are you with testing your meter on the coils themselves ?
- Check for primary and secondary resistance and report back
- Check the “HT Cap” on its own (remove HT cap from the coil) and check if its over or under 9,000 ohms (end to end)
Since the oil is drained. remove the bottom “TRIANGLE” that’s under the engine where drain bolt goes in.
Under the triangle should be a “Seeve” there, take it out (watch your eyes)
And see if old teeth fall out. unless you already made sure there is no floating metal bits in the engine and replace oil filter too!
it sounds silly but when cranking the bike does the RPM gauge move ?
because on a carby bike, when you press start , the RPM gauge always dances between 600-1000 rpm (magneto rotor spinning) and coils working ? + CDI unit.
But sometimes no spark is a sign of
- Bad coils
- Bad HT cap (common) thats why we use NGK ones.
- Side Stand switch (bypass it, as it is that annoying) but don’t forget to check side stand before riding!
- Clutch Handlebar Lever Switch (Don’t bypass it) as fake neutrals can happen , an engine can spin straight to 1st gear and bike falls down , as neutral wasnt “fully” neutral if you know what i mean, it’s always good to squeeze clutch before starting anyway.
I can always post a diagram if you like ?
Ok thanks! I am in the US so i have no idea where to even look here and i figured online was my best option. I have found some on Ebay but i am apprehensive with ebay as well. I did send Marcel a personal message so hopefully he can help me out. We are new to Hyosung but i wanted something cheap and easy to deal with…so far cheap but not easy lol.
I got you covered 👍 Will respond to PM shortly.
Sorry for delay as it was weekend i was away sorting customer bike deliveries locally.
I am free for the night for enquiries.i will take a pic when i change the breaks (hopefully arriving tomorrow) but what about replacing the entire master cylinder and leavers in one go. is that feasible or fantasy?
Sometimes Korea will fit a 650 master cylinder and use a stock lever but sometimes it will come from a 125cc because the original Naked bikes (125cc and 250cc) were always single disc.
The GV Aquila always had the same master cylinder both 125 and 250cc variants
Your pictures soon will help confirm what we have to deal with 🙂
That’s it right there!
It means the battery was discharging and the charging system was not keeping up anymoreUsually the 65o’s it’s good to replace both stator and regulator = married combo
I don’t usually sell a reg by their own for 650s but will do it on a custom order , otherwise most just get the full thing here
ElectroSport stator (recommended)
True Shingden Reg (not the fakes online, there is millions) and yes , Hyosung’s have gone in smoke for using cheap taiwanese regulators.I couldn’t risk it.
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
A bad reg can take down a stator that’s already stressed.
Alas, as such i would also advise changing the starter motor solenoid.
A healthy solenoid spins the crank faster.Stater MOTOR itself would be the last thing to worry about.
but i dont have any legit EU sellers so i have to deal with the import and tax fees. plus its hard to know what after-market parts fit on the Hyosungs… i have been wanting new leavers and such, but its hard to know if they are compatible.
I know since leaving the EU , the UK export system is a bit crazy lol , but if we can use DDP, we will do it. Otherwise most EU countries i ship to seem to pay low taxes for DDU parcels.
Levers = Send a picture of your master cylinder, so that i can see how thick your lever is (especially when it goes inside the master cylinder) , that will confirm if i can get levers to fit inside the master cylinder
For now, though, are you able to help me find aftermarket’s?
Aftermarket carb ? It’s difficult and the very last thing you want is a chinese clone-twin carb , it just never runs right. In fact you will be frustrated the instant you acquire such things. I can however try to get you mikuni bodies if the bodies are destroyed but internal mikuni parts i should have most on the store but i can get what’s not listed in most cases if i can!
I may have a new trick with intake pipes from another bike i will try to test and will post pictures about it on the forum but for now , the donor GV seems okay, it will be taken apart in a few weeks then i will experiment 🙂
OMG! 😢 I really do hope you’re okay and there is no further damage to your organs. And please get a lawyer and sue the driver for personal grievances too
And his insurance should buy a new Duke. I really really hate idiots like that on the road 😒, hence we all have to stay extra vigilant these days.Glad you’re still alive though!
12KG CM2 is usually the limit and normal is around 14-16kg cm2
However i can attest that i’ve tested a Hyosung 125cc that had 100 PSi in the rear and 125 psi at the front and this was hot.
The bike started in a bad mood, but once it got going, it was idling easy at 1k revs , then gets to 1800 rpm (because its a carb model and UK is cold as hell) , however due to low PSi its top speed and acceleration wasn’t good.
So if you’re 100 PSI cold, you should be able to start it and if it does and gets hot, it should rise up.
Normally 175 psi each cylinder is a very good top end.
I have no idea how much you have replaced on this bike (assuming OEM parts) other than what you have said on this forum already, then I pray we don’t have to find a GV250 DAEWOO ECU. (I mean it’s sparking but Fi light stays on? )
I know on a GT bike on DELPHI system, it comes on, then goes away once it starts running.
Have you had the chance to get it running and idling? If yes….
- Then grab your meter , switch to 20V DC
- Go to the battery and see what the idle voltage is at the battery
- Then rev up to 5k revs max and see what the voltage is at the battery
Ie.
Idle 14.1V // 5K revs 14.6VThen also check your charging to system while it’s running to see the output of the stator (Under 100V AC not DC) , in all 3 yellow lines.
Sometimes….
- It can just be the case the starter motor is starting to wane
- Flywheel Sprocket (Sprocket that is behind the crank rotor drum) may have lost a tooth or 2, hence slower starting/slower cranking (Have a visual look after you drain oil 1st) – I hope it is OK!
- Starter Motor Relay = Yup , very common, sometimes it’s this thing that’s slowing down the start up process.
- Because you have an EFi, your battery may be too low or too weak (meaning it’s loosing charge too easily if a starter motor is cranking while fuel pump primes and all other EFi electronics start to tax the battery to start
- I would get a fresh battery and make sure it is a YUASA YTX 14BS , I recommend the battery whenever i deal with customers here in UK. batteries like Powerline are just pure junk. VARTA (German) , UNIBATT are also my favs if i can’t get YUASAs.
I hope this info helps but keep us posted and I will digress further if need be 🙂
Welcome sir!
I’ve seen people on foreign forums even using “push bike inner” rubber tube and wrapping the inlet around with it.
We do repair intake pipes but in reality my cnc guy does all that and he has his own secretive ways but sometimes some boots are difficult beyond economic repair as they just fall apart , this doesnt help when people are using E10 fuel. Not just hyosungs.
So we’re slowly not going to bother with that and try to make metal versions (he does cnc stuff for this shop) so i trust him, it will be half-metal and half rubber because the rubber potion has a notch inside to hold the carb down and sit firmly in the grooves. I am digressing.
I would say what you’re doing may be a temp fix until a better set comes along , but there is also the issue of the “glues, epoxies , etc” being safe for high heat , constant flow of petrol down them from the carbs , etc …. EPDM Rubber has a funny meaning for a reason “Extremely Problematic Durable Material” lol
Also the bike tube thing seems to be what others do (not just hyosungs) until a nice set of intakes come along.
Wow , i’ve never seen that before! – That must be some really really bad quality taiwanese pads or something bad like a bad batch made from another brake pad company.
You got lucky!
If the Hyosung 650 gets tuned right, it will beat the Sv650 , (funny cause they use similar motors but not the same at all!) = Suggests that SV & GT & GV were made near the same plant lol.
GT/GV = Prettier looking by asian standards but the Suzuki do have their own bikes that also look good!
I’ve had a rieju (fully spanish made) , kawasaki and Suzuki GS500 bikes but the hyos have & still are the longest brand i’ve kept, i must like them haha. I’ve not really desired to jump on to the likes of the R1 Yamahas and what not , but i do like their old style R6 bikes.
Honestly, call me old school, i’ve grown to like the looks of the hyos and yet if someone shows me a 2022 bike of another make , i’m not too keen on it.
Do you want more power ? Otherwise the 250 seems zippy enough for you ?
Stay in Hyosung so you can’t be one of the “few chosen” to be on dark side , than a common sea wave of yamaha riders.
Excuse my grammar above ( hyperactive fingers on the keyboard sometimes!)
Hmm i should have further advise once you come back and upload some pictures on this forum topic, so i can see your inventions under the bike and also damage of the carb , maybe it could be possible i can sell body parts of it.
Regards.
I bought a GT250N from 2016 in november and loving it. but i have some small issues.
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I Have noticed that the dash sometimes flicker and turn white (no information on the display) when turning the ignition and needing to be turned off and on again for it to work.
Ignition Key can be faulty or funny when you turn the key the contacts inside the ignition block don’t always touch, this happens when the bike has been sitting in a shed for years or previous owner was abusive with the keys , but if it is a chinese lockset, they can sometimes fail to fully turn on the bike causing dash to have a blank LCD screen but lights up Neutral etc… , weird i know but follow Simon first , be sure all plugs are cleaned with “Contact Cleaner” . An OEM lockset can be the final thing to worry about.
Just an update, i checked TP, both IAP, IAT, ET, idle speed sol, all have proper power and output range voltages. Wires to ecu continuity, but not checked to pins just strip wire a bit only.. No air leaks near intakes. Hope to try a used alternate ecu next… Crazy no start cranks well. Has compression.
Also check
- Neutral Sensor
- Clutch Handlebar (again) (it has to know you squeezed clutch in to start it) some ECU’s are like this (hell, the CDi of the smaller 2016 125cc bikes won’t even spark if its not sensed , i deal with this all the time for customers forcing me to sell “clutch switches” enmasse at the shop) , i wouldn’t bypass it as “fake neutrals” can happen and bike rolls down or falls to ground as soon as it cranks. Ask me how i know lol.
- Side Stand (bypass it) but sometimes dirty wires makes it hard for bypass to work. (no circuit)
- Finally, the “TIP OVER” sensor , if the bike doesn’t sense the TIP OVER sensor or it’s dead , it thinks you crashed, therefore it won’t start to save itself.
On a GV the tip over sensor will be under seat near battery area or just above the frame under the tank, korea changes locations of it on certain bikes.
