Drive Chain Adjustment – GT250 EFi
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When in the past I came to adjust the drive chain slack according to the manual I noted that the amount of “drop” to allow, depends on the rotational position of the wheel. That is,if the amount of drop is set to, say, 20mm in one position, when you rotate the wheel to another position I found that the “drop” either increases or the chain becomes completely tight.
This to me indicated that the chain pitch had become uneven with use. I was disappointed to note that when I came to replace the chain some time ago the same problem remained which may mean that the problem lies either with uneven pitch even on a new chain or uneven pitch in one or the other of the sprocket wheels.
I do not remember the exact make of the chain I had replaced.
What is the opinion of the group re the above topic?
Regards
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It means the chain needs to be replace asap. Also look at your front sprocket, if the teeth look like sharp hooks they should replace too.
Or you can also take a clear picture and post in here so we see how it is.
Also how old is the rear sprocket and what brand is it ?
What specific make is that chain too ?
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The bike only has 15000km on the clock and both sprockets are the original Hyosung sprockets. I would be disappointed if the teeth have already worn out.I don’t know the make of the drive chain but I had bought it from the local Hyosung Agent.
What Chain is recommended?
In the next couple of days I will take photos of the sprockets and post here.
Thanks.
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the sprockets look healthy for the time being 🙂
Try my fav chain , RK XSO2 520 – And get rivet links also. Costly chain for sure but XRing , and can’t go much wrong with RK Japan chains.
If you have cash , EK XRing race grade chains cost a lot but handle well.
You will also make sure your wheel is absolutely straight (use a beam light, laser style light, or ruller to make sure the chain is straight)
If the wheel is like this / / than | | straight, the chain stretches a lot faster. It also eats away the sprockets faster too.
make your rear shock (if OEM) adjusted at level 5 (stiffest setting) , it makes it less bouncy at the back (chain always tensions on suspension drops & rises also)
Fold that yellow washer again , so that the nut has less chance of vibrating off.
if the washer is damaged teeth inside, please just replace the washer, i’ve lost count people messaging me about sprocket washers when the nut goes missing at 60mph lol . I always fold washer 2x and tap it tight to the nut so there is no gap also. 🙂
If possible, a new nut is always better than an old nut.
Just my late night ideas , hope this helps!
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Thank you Marcel for your suggestions. I could not trace the chain you specified but I did find an Xring alternative. I did ask the opinion of other riders about the quality of this company ( JT drive chain ) and their opinion was positive if not stellar.
With the old chain removed I was amazed at the amount of stretch this chain had. I laid the chain in a straight line on the floor and compressed the chain by hand to its minimum length. I then stretched the chain as hard as I could manually. The chain extended by aa whopping 30mm! What is worse is that extension was not even along all the links but was concentrated in certain areas. No wonder I was having problems with setting up the recommended chain sag! With the chain removed I tried to see if I had any eccentricities in my sprockets. Thankfully there is none at least at the tip.
The new chain fitted well and chain sag was consistent throughout the full chain rotation. I also noted that a lot of cyclic noise which I used to experience before the change disappeared altogether.
My main question now is what can I do to minimise wear and tear. Do I have a problem with my riding style. I tend to use engine braking a lot so I wonder is this can be an issue? How frequent should the chain be cleaned and lubricated? What is the expected lifetime of a chain?
Regarding wheel alignment I do have a good laser light which I can use but am unsure on the correct procedure of how to use it. Any suggestions please?
Christmas Greetings to all.
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JT XRING isn’t too bad , so you should be okay , if in doubt you can always try any RK XRing / EK XRing as my personal preference , there is also other japanese brands like Tsubaki, Kobura. Whatever you do, avoid the likes of TVR, Choho, and them unfamilar chinese brands , they always snap!
For wheel alignment, go behind your rear tyre , kneel down … and so do it like this
- Bike needs to be on paddock stands.
- Make sure your rear axle is a little loose so the wheel moves.
- Loosen chain tensioners a little.
- Pull the rear wheel back as far as you can safely.
- Look inside the “INNER walls” OF swingarm (facing the tyre sidewalls)
- You will see each side a “drain hole” for the swingarm towards the front of the bike.
- You want your tyre to be sort of inbetween them
- ie….
[swingarm leg left] [drain hole] [tyre here] [drain hole] [swingarm leg right]
sometimes a straight long strong ruler helps check the chain is straight also.
- Tension of the chain while it is on paddock stands should be about 15mm when you push the bottom chain up^ (rough guess)
- Check wheel again and chain are straight, then tighten the rear wheel axle to max of 60 ft lbs torque (make sure to use a torque wrench)
If you brake hard the brake disc and caliper apply force on the right side of wheel, that might bring the wheel forward
if you take off hard , the chain wants to pull the wheel on the left side , and vise versa. - I think you get the idea of where i am going with all this
Did my reply help so far ?
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Thank you for your advice. I will check alignment according to your method over the next few days. One point… you say slack has to be 15mm but the Hyosung manual recommends 30mm!!!
15mm when the bike is in the air (resting on paddock stands), it means the suspension has compressed, so the chain slack reduces.
When the bike has both wheels on the ground and on its side-kick stand , it should be 30mm like most motorcycles 🙂
I will say always check the slack again once its on the ground after tightening things up & dropping the bike down gently away from its paddock stands.
if i made any sense 😀
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I use a trolley lifter which basically lifts the rear end up from the forks. I think this compresses the rear suspension to the same amount as when the bike is on the ground, on its side stand.
In any case it is a good idea to check again the slack when the bike is back down on the stand.
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