♠️ M77
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No the very old style, it just has the two dials (speedometer and revs)
Sorry to keep asking is because the left fork has 2 different sensors for speed (MPH counting) , one is digital (it has a 3 pin plug under the dash) and the sensor is always black.
or you have the old style mechanical version speedo sensor that’s always in grey colour , it has a stiff cable that goes right under the “MPH” side of the dash as to wind it up.
Now with that being said,
There is some aftermarket amazon dashes that are more primitive in terms of function that use a speedo cable hooked to it, it will be some sort of single face gauge
– missing fuel sensor (you won’t know how much fuel is left) but some of them include the little fuel gauge display though.
– missing rev counter (you won’t know the revs ?)There is other dashes that require more advanced understanding of your bike’s wiring and you need to buy a plug like this
Do not cut your harness , as Korea isn’t making anymore of them carby looms, most people that sell them 2nd hand are dishonest (chopped to hell & back)
For example your dash has a “BLUE” 9 pin plug that is a “MALE” , whatever new dash you want to change to,
- learn the wiring diagram from manual
- learn which positions of those wire colours are in the pins of your “Bike harness” blue female side.
- Now the blue dash may have a red wire for power = you can use the red wire on the hyosung side.
- New dash says “Brown” is negative, = you can use the “black/white” wire of the hyosung side.
Just some pointers here, personally i’ve not changed or tried to mess with the oem dashes of the hyosung bikes , they work well lol.
However i will attempt to fit a GTR dash to a GV bike with some brackets and such , i will probably show it off in forum
(warning, not all GT125R dashes have the same looms! Some are crossed)There is always the issue that Korean’s have changed wire colours for certain years of GV bikes , so even a manual isn’t always up to date sometimes.
Some us have to open the dash to see where each wire went. Messy!
the sprockets look healthy for the time being 🙂
Try my fav chain , RK XSO2 520 – And get rivet links also. Costly chain for sure but XRing , and can’t go much wrong with RK Japan chains.
If you have cash , EK XRing race grade chains cost a lot but handle well.
You will also make sure your wheel is absolutely straight (use a beam light, laser style light, or ruller to make sure the chain is straight)
If the wheel is like this / / than | | straight, the chain stretches a lot faster. It also eats away the sprockets faster too.
make your rear shock (if OEM) adjusted at level 5 (stiffest setting) , it makes it less bouncy at the back (chain always tensions on suspension drops & rises also)
Fold that yellow washer again , so that the nut has less chance of vibrating off.
if the washer is damaged teeth inside, please just replace the washer, i’ve lost count people messaging me about sprocket washers when the nut goes missing at 60mph lol . I always fold washer 2x and tap it tight to the nut so there is no gap also. 🙂
If possible, a new nut is always better than an old nut.
Just my late night ideas , hope this helps!
Its mechanical style, bikes a gv125 2007
Does it have an digital screen in the middle (the dash) or do you have a speed sensor under the fork that is “grey coloured” (meaning very old style)
As some GV125s do have a partially digital dash from Korea and a digital speed sensor under the left fork.
Sorry i delayed, i hope the weekend is treating you well!
Anyone looked into converting these from analog to a digital universal speedometer??
Since you have a GV125 Carby , does it have a digital speed sensor under the left fork leg or is it a much older mechanical style ?
In relative to your question using another speedo aftermarket isn’t impossible , bobber converters and cafe racer folks tend to buy cheap taiwan clocks or a single clock , purely for aesthetics but wiring can be a mess!
It means the chain needs to be replace asap. Also look at your front sprocket, if the teeth look like sharp hooks they should replace too.
Or you can also take a clear picture and post in here so we see how it is.
Also how old is the rear sprocket and what brand is it ?
What specific make is that chain too ?
I have personally not changed the sounds of my donor bikes, i must be an old fart, i actually like the sound of the OEM cans that are twins , and drill the baffle hole so that its a little wider, gives me a more softer deep note , its quite nice. I would avoid the single cannons , as they are too heavy and too quiet. If i was to ever change the pipes of my donors, i would get it from silvertail directly.
I assume those are still stock pipes.
If you get a string. Wrap around the part of the headers that connect to the cannons. Ie. String is 38mm end to end , so the headers would be 38mm, you would have to get some kind of reducer from 38 to 30mm, then find 2x long long cans that are 30mm – If the cans rear the back tyre like your old ones, then it should be okay with a baffle hole that is about the size of a 10p coil. This is an example as i have forgotten off my head exact diameter of the old style twin pipes but i do know about the single cannon pipes as thats most common on later GV125s.I believe Amazon might have such cans, ebay is a wild mess of chinese things nowdays. Failing that you could have someone fabricate a Y shape pipe that takes 2 pipes in to one single pipe , then you could have maybe 32mm to 40mm cans that should be about as long to reach the end of the swingarm. You won’t loose too much power and still get a good sound.
Remember though any changes to the air (exhaust or intake) = upjet the carb so the bike doesn’t lean out.
There is a tutorial on the forum on how to safely remove the airbox without damaging the super rare intake manifolds.
I will see if i can find this in the UK trade for me to get it from you. The usual suspects like hyospares, catalogue,wholesales are sites that should burn down to the ground to amount people complaining, so i rarely almost never suggest anyone to shop with them , if it has a blue/white design background, it is usuall the same person that runs the site. Miracles happen, i would guess 10% of people get their parts in a timely fashion, russian roulette here. I have digressed, my bad.
Can you post a picture of your current bike showing the exhaust ?
Some GVs have factory twin pipes and some are a single cannon (2 variations exist also) = Making 3 designs total.
In honesty, the company that makes bolt on exhaust kits for the GV that work well is the LeoVince Silvertail, the bike looses speed without baffle, so best to keep it in.
Due to the nature of the GV having its pipes so short and a massive long cannon or twin long cannons, adding slash cuts is not something i would do, its very loud (annoying loud lol) and the bike looses a lot of power (as it’s too free flowing). However some people don’t really care as they just do it for the “looks” really when doing bobber chop frame cut conversions, so they want things at the back shrunk down more.
The carby GV650 will get away with slash cuts (stubbies) , if the bike gets tuned right. It’s hard to tune the 125 with very short systems. There is a reason leovince kept the pipes long as they can for the GV250 and GV125 models.
Sorry for delayed reply, i hope this gives you some insight too.
You could probably get away with “being creative” to cut inside the stock exhaust to make its hole bigger for sound , and still have some kind of backpressure retain, (The single long long cannon system) , it probably has a lot of stuffing inside to dampen the noise too.
Got bike running over ten mins nice and warm took bother plugs out testesed rear cylinder reading of 144 psi increase of 9 from cold reading however when testing front cylinder psi was 131 the same as the cold test I’d did
Okay, thank you for this, according your PSI i’ve converted them to Korea’s language of using KG/CM2
– Rear is about 10 KG/CM2
– Front is 9 KG CM2OEM limit is 8 or 9KG CM2 (115-130 PSI ish)
My advise for you would be to try and
- Check the valves for tight clearances , as that can affect compression and adjust them.
Korea uses the “Cam Under Bucket” style tappets with shims (that you replace) hiding under the buckets which the cams hit.
Ie. If REAR Valve “A” is exhaust….
It uses 175 shim but clearance on ice cold (overnight ice cold) is 0.35mm (too loose)
I would replace 175 shim with 160 or 165 shim , that should just about bring it to the 0.20-0.30 range Korea says for “all exhaust” valves.
All intake valves are 0.10 – o.20mm max.Optimal for hyosung GT125 (all 125 carb vtwins for that matter) in my experience fixing them is 0.13 intakes and 0.25 exhaust. They puur like kittens after that and throttle is easy, bike starts easier , the bike seems to have maybe 1 or 3 mph extra each gear before redline. - Push comes to shove, be prepared to buy new parts for the piston & rings (as long as the valves are okay and cleaned up, with no signs of a slight bend)
- Replace tensioner (better to go new anyways) and probably a fresh cam chain, it will love you for overhauling it and will give you more good years of running well.
- Head Gaskets (ofcourse)
dont panic at what i said, you’re not exactly at the limit but your engine is getting close to the 8KG CM2 limit on one of the heads.
Hope this helps!
I would follow the wires that connect to it, but it is possibly an immobilizer or alarm system. I am not too keen on them unless they use their own battery in secret. And myself personally would not want it taxing the stator and regulator all the time. If you investigate it privately , go see how its hooked up and perharps find a way to (creatively) give its own power source and charge it at home when it is low. Be descreet 🙂
Hi Marcel. You say I need to adjust the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out. I take it this is under a metal blank which I need to pry out? And therefore are the Air/Fuel rubber plugs in your shop to put in after adjustment?
Yes sir, here it is below:
click the pictures in the link to see where the mixture screw is located. PLEASE be gentle, it isn’t cheap and its very soft brass screw. If its tight or wont move, try air compressor or ultrasonic bath to get the dirt out.
Sometimes orings under it have probably cracked away (if you ever see fuel leak thru it or air hissing) (since it is “air/fuel” mixture)Try to add a random picture here or tell me the errors you get from the media uploader of this site ?
Hello,
Yes it is reliable ; due to misinformation and a lot of facebook wannabes out there, don’t be discouraged;
- Engine is made in Korea and is based from Suzuki Intruder and Hyosung has a long history with suzuki from the past.
- Carbs are made by Mikuni Japan
- Frame size is chunky and is based off Suzuki GS500 (no GS500 engines dont fit straight on, Korea made their frames to fit their own engines by force)
However, here is what you should do to have a long life with it.
- Use Michelin Tyres (Pilot Road) , as they are most recommended! and stick to factory size. The factory tyre is 150 section where most little 125s have 130 section mostly.
- Get rid of Regulator and pimp it (Hyosung did not make it, but other korean companies supplied some electronics to Hyosung) #3 failing electric item
- Use Koyo wheel bearings all over even the sprocket drum, you almost don’t have to worry about them for next 30k miles even.
- Use only e5 fuel or it punishes hard.
- Use sintered brake pads or carbon ceramics – Ignore cheap chinese organic pads.
- Waterproof the harness all over so that harsh british winters and their salty roads don’t rust things off.
- Do NOT use aluminium bolts or fancy colours. However, as soon as you get it. Get stainless bolts all over the bike except wheel axles and other big critical places.
- Get USD fork protectors so that stone chips dont hit them and you prolong their life before they leak.
Sometimes it helps to use Motul ONLY factory line fork oil that is 10w , as Korea used 5w which is too soft for our bumpy roads - If the rear shock looks bent, replace it. (affects mostly 2012-2019 bikes) (HOWEVER, Kayaba Forks & Shocks used on Hyosung are also used on the SV) They are good shocks and forks for the Hyosung when they perform well 🙂
- Change oil every 1500 miles max (if you need to be ocd with the bike, the oil is crucial)
- Use ESTER grade oil and it will thank you (Motul Ester or Silkolene Ester) only. Castrol is junk , no matter what the sales man says
- This engine has a lot of bearings and moving parts, the koreans over-engineered it lol.
- Speaking of engine, it has 8 valves (most 125 have 2 or 4 valves max) , so keeping on top of clearances is crucial
everything else is just upgrades and pimping, that is a discussion between you and your wallet 🙂
As long as the basics above are covered, you will be already , otherwise when you get it , report to this forum for whatever bothers you and we may advise.
Go get her and ride safe!
Hi, I’m having the same problem with my Hyosung Gt250R (DELPHI ECU). Could you send me photos of the cable you made? My email is [admin redacted] Thanks in advance, Cristian
Hey 🙂
As it is a public site , i had to remove your email to protect your privacy.
Also the member you want has a new account, you can PM him here
https://hyoriders.club/members/jfarr/You can always create a brand new topic with as much detail as you can past and present history, it will help us understand the situation better , that is if you need us.
If i do not reply quickly , usually Simon who also has an EFi Hyosung knows how they behave and will offer insight 🙂- Both spark plugs out bike was cold and throttle fully open
Try to have the bike running hot for 10mins , i mean hot then wait a few mins before taking both plugs out. Twist full throttle and let us know fella, as compression does change when bike is warmest . Korea hence forward tells us all to do it when engine is warm/hot if possible
Simon makes good points in regards to “process of elimination” , since you have a naked bike its much easier to get to it than a full faired bike in this freezing winter lol
Because you have a GV-S (EFi) model 125cc , go to halfords and buy this:
- WYNNS FORMULA GOLD PETROL CLEANER BOTTLE
Make sure your bike has half a tank (max!) , or 1/4 fuel left.
Then pour all of the formula gold in the tank.
Ride safely on a dry day , slow ride down the streets, then race it up to 60 on the dualcarriage ways, then slow down again,You want the formula gold to be running through the internal tank pump, internal tank fuel filter, down the lines, then making its way to the injectors.
It will do its best to “soft clean” any debris clogging the fuel system.
I use it all the time and works wonders. Do NOT use Redex or any other ones you see in Halfords. it must say “Wynns Formula Gold Petrol Cleaner”
Failing that, EuroCarParts should have a store in your city and go to them for it also. It’s a popular item for EFI cars.
(S) in your bike model means it has Injectors than carbs (older GV125’s pre-2018 are named GV125C = C means Classic/Carby)
Use E5 fuel only because even if the bike is designed for E10, the bikes and cars in general run better on E5 . There is nothing positive about the extra ethanol in the E10 pumps. If anything it will make certain bikes run weird.
Also Keep us posted since the caps and plugs were sent to 2 addresses , i had a feeling it was you anyway! –
Remember as good as the Lasers and NGK Caps are, you need good coils 🙂
If your coils are failing, the new plugs will foul up as the NGK caps aren’t getting enough spark energy from the coils. The coils will probably be the last electrical item to worry about.
Test your battery at idle and 5k revs rev-up ===> make sure meter says 14V constant. If less than 13.5V, (in any revs) , replace regulator as per service notice by Koreans
Next conversation , (after above ^ is done first) , is exhaust system , air leak tests , etc … i will explain it all in due time.
How was the compression done ?
– Was the bike hot first ?
– Both spark plugs out ?
– Full throttle while cranking for compression?I will have advise after your next answer 🙂
good afternoon. aguila 125. with a standard jet (87.5), the quality screw is unscrewed by 2 turns. how much you need to unscrew the screw if you put the jet 90 ???
Hey,
Mixture screw should be left alone because it is a 125. 90 is a good jet, go ahead and upgrade it 🙂
