♠️ M77
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so little update, it was perfect since i fixed it, and yesterday it started making excessive chain noise. like normal chain noise but louder (loud enough that i can hear it in my helmet next to lories) and only occurs every 5-10 teeth. i can mostly hear it while driving slowly, i was afraid that it was falling off agian, but the sprocket seems to be tight and the washer is still bent around the nut. any ideas?
Get front sprocket cover off.
Put the bike in “paddock stands”
Make sure is in neutral.Use your eyes very sharply and spin the rear wheel……. and check these
- Front sprocket , is it wobbling sideways ? or is it spinning straight?
- Rear sprocket , is it wobbling ?
Remove rear wheel safely, and check your sprocket “DRUM” , remove the sprocket drum (carrier/holder) and spin the bearings…..
if your rear sprocket bearing is crunchy (not smooth) or feels wobbly when spinning it with your finger, replace it.Also check your rear wheel bearings.
Once it is done, put the bike back on paddock stands , spin the rear wheel….check if the chain is moving smoothly and isnt got any dead spots ? or chain isnt going up and down ….under the swingarm while the wheel is spinning.
Let us know!
Sometimes a situation like that (“sprocket washer has come off”) can also do funny things to sprockets like warp them or bend chain a little bit , i hope everything is okay as it is a new kit we have just sent you already. Gotta say safe on the road
That is for a GV-Aquila Hence it has a “–dash—” in the middle compared to yours
GV125 = Longer, for GT bikes. They have a bit airbox, carb must reach to it.
GV–125 = shorter , for aquilas , they have smaller airbox above the engine.Send us an email (contact at the very bottom of this forum page) about the manifolds, we can fix for you with our cnc man, as he has he own methods of sorting intake pipes he keeps to his chest , we’re fixing intake pipes this week anyways.
Thanks. Largest annoyance with the dressed bikes, is to undress for simplest tasks & service. Undresses, but not shy:
It is still very clean and pretty!
Great updates!
Haha, i will also tell my Titanium Guy you loved the bolts and used them on the rearsets, that is new to us! – I like it 🙂
I thought you would keep a spare copy of bolts, if you wanted to add extra brake disc to front wheel.
Do you want Naked Throttle wire ? I can get it anytime but i will add it to shop as this week i’ve started to add catalogue items for GV125/GV650 , so i will do GT naked too.
Remember , GT Naked uses a SQUARE shape switch right , and throttle cable is more flat, so it may feel awkward using Naked cable on GTR curvy/smooth switch right.
Annoyingly , we can’t use GT Naked right switch on GT125 RC harness, pins change , unless you want to be an electric wizard 😉 !Welcome to the site, i am loving the influx of more GV Aquila riders , while i love every model as i own 3 variations (GV, GT, GTR) , the member counts on GV was a little low , so again, good to have you onboard.
Any problems , the forum is welcome for your questions! Otherwise, i hope you are having a good summer.
Do share pictures when you return 😀
I only have about 1900 miles on it. I have been doing more forest roads with my other bike. I still have my valve shim kit sitting on the bench. As long as it starts well, I am putting off doing valves until (if)I take a real trip on it. Otherwise I’ll do that on a cold dreary day this autumn. I did adjust out a bunch of throttle cable slop this past week. Still on my first oil and filter change. It takes about 2 1/2 hours to do 85 miles in these parts.
That’s very small, some of us in UK can easily do 1K in one month lol. (Heavy use , so to say!) – It loves oil changes sooner than the manual states , it makes it known by how smooth everything feels from gearbox , to clutch bite etc…. Do keep an eye on the clutch plates, its a torquey little twin 😉 , around 4K max is usually a good time to change the plates unless you have upgraded ones that may last a little bit longer.
Oh, it loves to eat brakes 😉 , so carbon ceramic or sintered ebc hh is usually a good call since you drive distant places on some occassions (if not all)
BIG WELCOME!!!!!!
You will love the GV-S bobber , as i know a few people in UK actually love it more after they start personalizing it (beauty is of the beholder)
But as a stock looking bike, Korea did a good job design wise!
I will look forward to your pictures, we need more GV members 🙂
Bushes in some regions (funny enough) can actually be refered as dust seals and oil seals , unless do you have a picture of the actual part and ill confirm what you are saying or what happened to your old ones ?
Sorry i saw this late!Problem with Yamaha’s is that 90% of their own parts sometimes do not work on the Hyosungs because the requirements of a Hyosung , to differ for Yamaha . Hence even if we have their twin carbs, you will see even the exterior parts differ in some places , i’d stick with Korea’s manuals even tho they can be vague sometimes lol. A part from a yamaha that is 1mm off , tends to throw things off real bad , i found out the hard way (Marcel must not buy Yamaha carbs!) , hell we can’t even use their own float covers without issues later lol.
How many miles have you put on her so far ? And did you have to do any service ? Since we are about to enter the full swing of summer!
Simon is correct 🙂
Also the “parking mini” light that’s inside the headlight shell , the wires are usually thinner , and the harness powers them directly. Wire colour is usually either:
Orange
Whiteor
Orange
Black/Whiteor
Orange
Grey🙂
If in doubt , take a picture and post it here
It is correct , Korea down jetted the bike heavily for emissions control for certain EU countries .
However, 82.5 on a GT bike would surely see its piston rings go pop!
I would definitely recommend the upjetting settings mentioned in the tutorial . The bike would be a lot better! (This doesn’t grant you license to use “shorty teeny” slush exhaust cans cause the bike drastically looses speed!)
If you need sound louder than the monstrosity of the single cannon , you can expand the hole at the can outlet (get creative!) but i do have twin exhausts on ebay that are VERYYYYY loud , but work seemly OK as long as the bike is jetted well!
Welcome!
As long as you love the Hyosung, it will love you back lol. It may look simple but it works very well when parts stay good.
Do check that leak, otherwise its a bad day if oil slips on to your tyres while riding with passenger!
I’d still change the tyres haha! – Here we wouldn’t dare use 20yo tyres in UK climate, its just too icy winter, yikes!
Keep an eye on ebay . i may strip one of a used carb soon , costly things to get new anyways. You had our replies on email.
The bike “can live” without it but ofcourse ideally it should have it , i know.
Make sure you fold washer very hard and tight 3x , always check the nut every few miles to be sure.
You can use “LOCTITE BLUE” only on the threads of shaft , then tighten it
Should be 60 ft lbs torque for that shaft 🙂
Aww , sorry to hear that man! – Never a good thing to hear a story like this but i have great hope in this.
Right, i assume you’re handy with the meter ?
So check AC output of the stator at 5k revs and tell us if all 3 yellow wires are same voltage or variances ?
eg.Yellow 1 & Yellow 2 =
Yellow 2 & Yellow 3Yellow 3 & Yellow 1
You should get 3 AC readings from these 3 combinations above.
Then advise us if there is anyone locally (any bike shop) that carries a YUASA BATTERY LOAD METER (it’s got a screen and it will literally say “battery good, battery bad, charge system OK (regulator test between idling and 5k revs) ?
Remove the front sprocket cover and please check your sprocket nut hasn’t accidently vibrated loose off!
I fear for the shaft… i hope its threads are okay 🙁
We have had it happen loads here in UK, hence i sell the nuts and washers and usually advise owners to tighten nut hard and fold washer 3x as if to hug the nut tight.
Wonderful tutorial!
Very nice write. Now they have an option to follow either of our guides yours or mine that says “box removal” because it still involve boots coming out 😉Great stuff! 😀
Hey,
The airbox comes out first , if you can’t do it sidewaysThe injectors are held down by a plastic cap that has a fuel pipe sticking out. The plastic cap itself screws in to the metal body of the throttle bodies
Gently but a firm grip will pop them out! (only after the plastic caps holding the injectors down is taken off)
If it helps , please take a picture and post on this forum so we see how far you have gone ?
Sounds like the regulator is wanning , have you downloaded the EFI manual on this forum , (even the 650 one is okay since it uses the same regulator as Gv250 EFi) , so the voltage requirements by korea is the same.
Check voltage at idle
check voltage at 5k revs
After that, go to the section about testing the stator.
Check output of stator (AC volt)
Check ohms of stator and its pickup sensor too (when bike is ice cold)
