♠️ M77
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Poor girl 🙁 , hope you fix the caliper and take care of it well and do also check the rear master cylinder is good and isn’t stuck with dirt inside the rubber shroud, i know this because i pressed mine and it jammed open causing caliper to bite disc as i was riding but thankfully , i knew it was service time for it , this was on another test hyosung GT i purchased and sold it to a friend. The previous owner did not look after it, he left it in garden to rot for most of the year exposed to bad weather
I’ve not tried jumpstarting it…or even know if that would work. Will need to find some jump leads. At the moment i’m getting 12.8v at the battery and live side of the ignition switch but nothing after that…nothing on the dash/dials, lights, etc.
Also locate the fuse box , don’t jump start while a car or van or truck is running, it will fry the bike.
Also while at it, check all connectors for water invasions or dirt. Plus check for signs of shorting along the harness incase something to do with water invasion or fraying from the steering area down to the airbox
Is the bike running?
test the voltage idling and also 5k revs at the battery point.Also test the stator using my previous reply ? you want to make sure that thing is healthy.
EFI – Snappy throttle response when all parts work perfectly
Cons = More cash for parts if ECU or stator goes wrong (but carb or efi is recommended to upgrade regulators)
EFi – Try to get a DELPHI system as it is a bit more stable.
Cons = DAEWOO ECU is hard to buy , so make sure to look after it!And what Simon said about EFi bikes too in terms of tuning
Carby = Easier to tune, less electronics.
Cons = Carbs do not like bad tanks or dirty fuel , and difficult to buy a new carb!EFi and Carby Cons = They do not like E10 fuel. Use e5 forever.
Image appears broken, can you upload directly on this site again one more time ?
And any info you need to know just ask away 😀 – Overall they are good Korean bikes, but like any motorcycle, key to longevity is beating what the engineers say in their manuals , which we have uploaded many of them in the “Technical Section” of this site, under 65o manuals.
For Fuel Gauge Reading = It is Yellow/Black (wire one) and it goes straight to the dashboard. And second wire is Black/White , it is just basically ground to chassis or battery negative.
Does this help ? If i missed something in your post shout away.
You can still save the harness , strip it all down , patch what you can and use MANNOL Harness Tape (recommended) or similar
For connector (plug) it is called “2.6mm (i think)” “Auto Car Electric Plug” it is what hyosung uses for that 2pin style connector, it is the same connector style used for
– side stand switch (sometimes this is bypassed by last owners and recommended to bypass!)
– Rear Number Plate LightThe bottom of the float bowls has 1 brass nipple each, those are for drainining fuel (what you are holding is the drain pipes)
1 front 1 rear and joins at a Tee Junction —> Long hose goes to the road. (This is why next time we drain carbs before removal, we loose the silver float screws directly under the brass nippe) ==> then the long hose drains fuel in to the bucket on the road (or garage if you will) – I say road because i know some houses here in UK do not have long drive ways or big back yards , they fix their cars/bikes on the street/road 😉
Because he uses USD forks from Hyosung-Kayaba , they require specifically a hyosung manufactured mount.
We have caliper bodies on ebay or spare calipers , so look for our name @evocrest on ebayAs for brackets themselves , we usually sell brackets separately and the pins included (a bracket as one-piece unit only). It should be on our ebay channel , if it isn’t email us.
or , if you handy with fabrications , or your local fabricator can make up mounting plates using the hyosung one as a template then fit any caliper of your desire from Suzuki or Hondas 😉
Though, there is nothing out there that is a “bolt on fit” unless it is Hyosung specific, the koreans kinda made sure of it
Here is the rubbers below as we stock them
As for the metal pins that slide in to the caliper itself , soak brake cleaner down there and just pry it out.
Then use putoline race grease, it is good stuff!
The sidestand is definitely Wire One (BLACK & WHITE) and Wire 2 (SOLID BROWN usually or brown/black) – It goes to the CDI unit.
So i would join the two wires mentioned above ^ , then it is bypassed.
While the harness is exposed, you would take extra time to remove more of the tape and make sure there isn’t anymore fishy jobs except Korea’s factory crimping of joining common wires. Do not panic if you see 6x orange wires join at one spot then branch off as 2 wires again. That’s korea!
Sounds like the sprag clutch behind the flywheel has gone. (I hope not)
But open the magneto casing, then remove the flywheel carefully, look at the sprag clutch , if its ok, it could be due to missing teeth on the “Flywheel Sprocket”
Yes , we deliver worldwide every day:-)
Send us an email below
And i will give you a quote.
The reason IE / UK is at checkout is because it is domestic to us , deliveries are free to those countries. All other countries have changed laws in logistics and also not every shipping company is the same price, so we try to find the cheapest quote possible , do not worry we’re quick to reply to any sales emails 🙂
I hope you tell all your members to join this forum because i would love to see the Japanese scene and all your rides 🙂
I will look for the GV125-S manual for you. Do you own a new GV-S model ? or is it for your friend ? Because i can see the nice orange one in your picture.
Such a young bike and new model from Hyosung it shouldn’t ever have this kind of problem but it’s a motorcycle like any other brand, strange things happen beyond human control much like cars
So i definitetly thing its the battery system.
If the regulator (very common Hyosung and Suzuki thing) has stopped charging the battery and the bike was basically dying down as the battery ran down, then it sounds like a regulator change is a very good idea.
As simon says the EFi system is more fragile in terms of electrical sensetivities , it doesn’t like flactuations, a steady 14v supply is a happy bike. I have been meaning to do upgraded regulators for these EFi bikes anyways (9/10 of Hyosung riders on earth tend to change the regulators on their older models especially carbies)
Keeps the stator happy too! (A very costly item mind you) , so whatever we do , we make sure we don’t have to replace the stator unless last resort if bike isn’t charging.
if your meter is working = rev to 8k , rev to 3k , and 5k , tell us the voltages the bike is making.
Infact , while the battery is charged, let it run on battery , unhook the stator plugs that have 3 yellow wires near battery , switch to AC , rev to 5K, and tell us AC volts each single yellow wire makes (as it’s called 3 phase system)
ie. out of each 3 yellow wires at 5k revs
Pin 1 / Pin 2 = 80v
Pin 2 / Pin 3 = 80v
Pin 3 / Pin 1 = 20vThen it means stator replacement time, if all 3 lines don’t match their AC volts. Thus in return, if its spiking, it will cook the reg, then the battery, then the electronics (which at that point they start spazzing out)
It would require studying the wiring of the carb vs EFi electronics, as the EFi dash does have a chip that also checks its an EFi motor sending signals
As you have a 650 ,(i’ve never tried it yet personally), the fuel gauge and temp sensor may have different expectations of OHM readings.
I know for sure EFi and carb coils have different OHM readings , so the tacho may act funny or not work at all.
Speed MPH = Solid green wire usually. Works fine.
High Beam, Left, Right, Neutral = Doesn’t care if its EFi or Carb = it will light up if you align wires correctly.I’d suggest getting a 2.8mm 9PIN electric plug and many wires , then electric connector [rectangle block] , that way you can make up your own dash harness without chopping your precious OEM ones if you ever decide to go back 🙂
Also adding to Simon’s good reply.
If the pads are half way done, the pistons don’t really like to stick out too much (more dirt wants to rust it up etc…) so defo cleaning & inspection is in order.
If need be, flush and re-bleed brakes with fresh DOT4 , brake fluid is usually good for 2-4yrs max. (no matter the miles.), Time is its enemy
As per simon, trust me, the 2016 is very sensetive to signal losses on the clutch handle switch (don’t bypass it) just order a new unit (we have loads)
Also if there is a side stand = bypass and join wires and waterproof it very hard.Now , last big war is the stator unit because it has a “PickUp Sensor” embedded in it. If that thing goes, nothing will spark , it needs the stator pulse sensor in good order
Sometimes it fails randomly due to heat (means unit is now giving up ghost) or simple old age , it’s not doom & gloom , it happens to most bikes sometimes not just Hyosung. I hope it doesn’t come to this but please keep us posted.
So after reading a manual I found online, the code is engine temperature high voltage circuit. The blink code is 10-1-1-8. The 10 blinks means 0 then it’s 1-1-8. Hope this helps the next person going crazyThank you for sharing that wisdom, I am very glad you cracked it! – Just the ET sensor to to replace!
Though, i am even more glad you did not throw it off the cliff , i like your patience lol.
If 6 and 7 are required, i don’t think Hyosung sells them anymore or makes them even though it is KAYABA that’s involved, i may have a suspicion your local guy will take your old forks and try to match up with other Kayaba parts used on other suzukis . If i’ve known Hyosung all these years , here in UK USD forks are pricy items! – So we try to fix them locally as much as we can.
