Bypassing kickstand safety switch

[Gregory4paint]

I have a 2011 hyacinth gt650r I bought it used not running I’m having a problem with the rear cylinder dropping and misfiring I noticed that all the safety switches including the kickstand safety switch is bypassed I took the tape off of it there’s no resistor is there supposed to be a certain amount of resistance when doing this procedure

[♠️ M77]

Hey,
The kickstand should be bypassed by basically bridging the 2 wires that go to the harness from the switch itself.

No resistor required.

Cyl Drops can also be a signs of these (common)

• Stator Unit Wanning  (rising heat has made its “pulse sensor” misbehave / ghosting)
• TIP Over Sensor  (under / near the fuel tank yellow metal plate  (since yours is a 2011 EFi , it should be DAEWOO or MITSUBISHI  ECU (Korea is random like that))  , but any bike after 2012 is DELPHi system
  Not that it matters right now but i do know stators acting funny make the daewoo ecu’s really moody.
• Coils  (on the frame)
• HT Caps  (use NGK ones like we do, you never have to suspect caps ever again)

 

I hope it’s just the rear ignition coil system and clutch handle bar lever  (yes the handlebars have a clutch switch on the clutch lever side, if it acts funny, it cuts sparks off instantly even while riding, i’ve been through it lol)  – I would NOT bypass this switch.

Just my 2$

[Steve]

My recent “falls off at 3mph” accident was caused by the kickstand switch killing the engine while moving so I’m not a fan really. It took me a while to figure what had happened, I got moving by (as Marcel indicates) simply shorting the wires leading to the switch.

 

My switch seems to have locked (I mean really, really stuck) indicating the stand is out even when fully retracted (? dirt & vibration) so I’ve tidied up the wires to it leaving it always shorted for now.

 

I think these switches get neglected and need a little TLC occasionally as in a vunerable position.

 

Regards, Steve.

[Author]

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