♠️ M77
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Is it a carb model ? Or can you show us how the bike is currently set up?
Hey,
Seen your FB post too with the picture , bare with me as i have returned to work (was away weekend) . I will see what I can do and send you an email
I’ve been stocking other bearings, so these were next to do anyway.
0.7 ohms max ice cold (overnight cooled) – on all three yellow wires = Beyond a single 1.0hm on any yellow wire means replace the whole unit.
up to 140 ohms on pickup sensor ice cold. = No hot readings for ohms because heat rises up resistance readings.
Running =
@5K revs should say 80-90v max AC on all three wires. Identically. Any yellow wire that isn’t in spec = replace stator (eg. 40 , 80, 80 instead of all 80 , 80 , 80 )
A group member’s photo (@Adrian) , he posted it online years ago anyway
I forgot the size off my head too but this nut 1000% fits
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363213399315?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649Are you able to post pictures of how far you have come ? and the tank tap too. = Just so we see the situation, I or someone might try to draw a diagram out of it for you.
Welcome to the forum!
Hey,
You won’t need another carb as IMO as the GT250 carbies are all the same until 2008 (before the EFi switchover) . The fact you have a 2010 means you got the best carb Korea has as the early models had less moving parts inside the carb.Can you try fresh CR8E plugs , then go for a ride , come back , remove both spark plugs out ?
Take a picture (including the center and sides of the plug) be sure to let us know which is front or rear then I will advise what your mixture looks like from the clues given by the plugs.
Also when the bike is running (riding) do you get a smooth ride all the way through ? More detail the better.
IMO – The bump starts and what not can be electrical but lets see….., are you able to:
- Rev the bike to 5,000 rpm and hold it , = how many volts at battery
- Let the bike idle = how many volts is that at battery?
- How old / fresh is the battery and what size , brand is it ? (They defo don’t like it when a weak battery is used , even if its 12v)
Advanced Checkup:
- Switch the meter to AC (not DC)
- Go to your rear shock, disconnect only the “triple yellow” stator plug from the engine.
- Because its 3 pins , Lets call them A B C
- Start the bike… and let it idle , then rev to 5000 rpm, hold it there….
- A + B = How many AC volts is that?
B +C = ?
A+ C = ?
Sometimes half of what you said points to a bad battery or charging system married couple (stator & reg) – it’s a common thing here in UK due to harsh winters that push weak batteries out, alas also annoying the stators & reg trying to keep the bike running but i hope its not the case on your end as you are on the warmer side of the globe! (Though, “heat” is also the alternative enemy, so check stators and regs aren’t overly hot for no reason and check for burnt connectors)
Then again also check….
- Engine isnt being hydrolocked ? (Floats burst , leaking fuel in to cylinders overnight or something) – I would change oil right away
- Solenoid Relay (Common starting delay culprit)
- Starter Motor (Old age , can make it wane)
Even more advanced but rare …
– Drain oil , open the stator casing nicely
– Have a very bright torch , look behind the flywheel , make sure all sprocket teeth are intactYou don’t want this below (as missing teeth , can make it skippy or “missing” to starting instantly and sometimes the sprocket “misses” the starter motor , dropping the engine below the 600 rpm cranking speed , making the engine strain the starter motor more and the relay gets hot)
Sorry for any grammar errors , i type at super sonic speeds and happy 2024 ahead! ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Marcel.. just bought one from you on ebay, hope that solves the problem 🙂
No problem, we should post this after new years – I hope this fixes it for you but , you may wish to consider getting one more on our ebay as future backups!
Hey. The 125 crank cant support 250cc pistons because extra volume the cylinder makes and extra hp will snap the crank and conrods.
The 125cc cam chains are too slim to spin 250cc camshafts (they use chains that are 2-3x wider and stronger) the 250cc cylinder head also has much stronger springs causing more strain on the crankshaft.
You can however fit some better HD clutch plates and upgrade to 520 chain kit to customize gearing.
Any mods on your 125 cylinders should be *slightly* custom stronger 10% extra valve springs , port polishing , maximum 64-66 piston big bores (custom, i have no info on this as not one really does this) , head skimming. Thats about it for the valves and cylinder heads that way the 125cc crank wont snap away.
Hey,
Can you attach a few pictures here if possible so we can see the situation better ?
Can you also drain the carbs => leave them attached to the airbox , unscrew the intake rubber clamps towards the engine heads , then unhook the throttle / choke cables off
Then lift the airbox out of the bike with the carbs attached to it gently ? (Thats ofcourse if the airbox is screwed off the frame to lift it off)
Again, see where we are with your pics.
GV125/GV250 are wayyyy more difficult for first time users thats why myself & another owner had to make 2 tutorials of airbox removals on the smaller sisters of the GV series.
Take a look at the tutorial section of this forum, find the 2x topics that discuss removing the airbox and inlet manifolds. Once you read all that , is this something you can do at home ?
Then we can either see if its good for you to self-clean the carbs , check jet sizes , etc or if its best a local mechanic can ultrasonic clean them for you, then you fit new jets etc
Also, this topic is a very good read below:
And this one too
Happy new years ahead and enjoy your present holiday break!
As per simon 👍
Can add any history and things that have been done to bike to make it behave less than factory standard or any mods that would affect its running behavior ? Year ? total miles?
We can do what you need. Just send us an email 🙂
We will never recommend any hyosung parts websites that are all *blue & white* design. They all owned by 1 scammer using a cheap cloning script to duplicate his sites.
If in a hurry, try SunCoastCycleSports , i usually buy their stock sometimes, so they are reliable enough. I have no experience with WhyGoStock website or their owners so if they have a website call their office.
Another honorable mention is ScooterPunks formerly called *PowerSports EPF Guzzi* (i think they are in Arizona) Good guys bought new stock there and there over the years for my shop. They also an authorized Hyosung Dealer in sure and they call Hyosung’s actual warehouse in USA
Have you got a link for your ebay page please bud
Will respond to your email shortly , and [[tap here]] for the ebay shop
Marcel as in Marcel from the hyosung page on Facebook
Yup, admin of other fb groups besides Hyosung Owners UK (with the hyoriders flag on it) and on ebay too , welcome to the dark side!
If you you want , send us an email if you have any sales questions regarding the store , using the “Contact us” link at the bottom of this site.
In regards to technical help, you landed on the right forum.
If the bike has been sitting since your last attempts to start it, i would get a siphon and drain the fuel tank (trust me on that)
Drain the carbs too
Also , the Hyosung carbies want E5 fuel onlyIf it is alien to you to work on the carbs, you can always send it to us and we will clean it & sort it out properly , mixtures etc – but again email us in any regards to sales enquiries if you want my services
If you hire a local mechanic , make sure he knows how to work on mikuni carbs on big cc bikes first as these jap carbs don’t play ball if we cut any corners. 😬
While you are here , i hope you have lurked around enough of this forum to see old topics with answers to common questions asked by other members before you
Hey,
Did you replace the coils and the plug caps ?First thing is to make sure there is bright blue sparks from each plug , then we can see about air and fuel next
I hope you keep her , they are nice to have!
Welcome to the site & enjoy your stay.PS, it looks very tidy 👍
It is normal because 2008 was the begining of the EFi switch for 650cc and 250cc , they started with GV Aquilas then changed GT bikes to EFi
But new carb models were still being sold until 2010-2012 (iirc) , because we sent some parts to a customer in NZ who had a carb model 2010 GT250 Naked
The 125cc is the only one that did not get EFi release until 2019I hope this make sense
You will also have what we call “1st Generation EFi” model (Daewoo / Sentec Electronics) in older bodyshape aka (Mk1)
