♠️ M77
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Long Bolt = It is a pin for the brake pad.
“Little Screw” = it is to stop the long bolt from falling out, it is required on all Hyosung machines.
Hyosung GV125-S from factory uses “Little Screw (grub Screw”) ==> Long Bolt (Caliper Pin) = Both of these 2 go inside the caliper.
Maybe yours is missing a “little screw” , that is why we send you stainless.
You will now need a long bolt “Caliper Pin” like the link i posted above ^ because the old parts show be thrown away after fighting to remove it (They will be worthless as i can see in first picture above ^ you will not use those parts again and upograde to stainless steel
Make sure to buy “COPPER GREASE” for pistons , screws , and the RED section of your brake pads, they will stop them getting stuck , next time you do maintenance
Hope this helps
a lot of cruisers in USA don’t have big displays and they are too basic (speed and mileage) , hell even the old Hyosung Gv650 2007 has no rev counter.
But because they are naked with carbs , it was easier to make a custom mount to the handlebars and fit a KOSO USA gauge on it , but the pain was working out the wires and allowing the bike to respond.
KOSO may even inaccurately read fuel levels (it says 4 bars , but you have 1 bar inside the tank, there is a risk of being stranded if too far from a petrol station) unless you know the “MPG” of the bike itself , ride like a granny , and if you go 100 miles , then put 100 miles worth of fuel in the tank. Another old school way not to always “trust” what the fuel level display says
Your 125R’s fuel level is optimistic at best but it tries its best to be accurate. Usually 1 bar on the 125R taking it easy with E5 fuel means you have about 10-15 miles to find fuel) before it starts flashing critical.
Other Hyosung riders will definitely find your topic (this one) as you research and find answers. You will tell us if it was worth it or not.
You have 1 more chance === Try a BIGGER Allen Bit and hammer it in. Then turn it loose. Also spray WD40 to loosen any old road rust
or use bigger TORX bit and hammer it in, so that it is stuck hard on the bolt, then you have 1 chance to loosen it. Then throw it away.
I really recommend stainless pin FIRST before doing that , because you don’t want to re-use that damaged pin again (they used bad steel).
Stainless Steel Brake Caliper Pin (x1) (Pad Retaining Bolt Axle) :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi
Isn’t the display already LCD? – The OEM display that’s fully LCD is Hyo’s newer 2020+ GV300S and Gv650s in Japan but they are not backwards compatible with carby bikes.
The “plastic surround” on your bike is molded to fit the current display you have and the bike’s electrics expect that Orange Backlit gauge to be there , otherwise 99% of all digital displays that are aftermarket WILL fail at some point if not much sooner as sold in china sweat shops.
If you can fork out big money for a dash that will last well, you could look at a KOSO USA gauges (beware of clones, so many clones!) and you have to learn to rewire everything with a fresh connector and wires (no point chopping up your old loom cables , as you will be lucky to find another one at this rate) so expect to have a 9-PIN connector and long sets of cables. Now your new dash should plug & play and remove if you need to restore the old dash.
The plastic surround will be cut around, so buy a new plastic surround and mold / cut your new dash in to it.
Speed Sensor on the left fork is calibrated to run on your OEM dash, aftermarket dashes probably come with magnets attached to fork leg and brake disc to “estimate” speed (but not always perfect!) , so have GPS as a backup as we have more cameras everywhere now lol.
I could be old fashioned to say i prefer how Hyosung did it = RPM tacho + LCD speed display with icons (high beam, neutral, etc) on their own too instead of being intergrated in to the LCD display.
If i ever know someone who has used a real Koso gauge on the 125R, i would ask them to make the tutorial on the forum
We seem to have spark but it still runs the same with the front leed off.
As mentioned before , you have to try my previous reply in regards to swapping things around to back cylinder , checking injectors
If you can, get the service manual in this forum and report back here with a multi meter when the bike is COLD:
– Stator values (It is the first thing to tell engine ECU when to spark)
– Ignition coil values (primary and secondary resistance)
– HT Cap values (on its own) (eg. 45K ohms)It can narrow things down taking away most of the guessing , either way you have a cold cylinder, something isn’t right unless you have a Heat Gun that can measure accurately what temperature the cylinder actually is eg. Rear Exhaust pipe = 150 degress celcius , Front Pipe = 44 deg. *C
We can then determine finally if you are fuel starved there or electrical misbehave (lethargic sparks at the front etc)
That’s a shame that they don’t make them anymore. How much are you looking at selling for/ could you send me a link when you do put it up? As I said I am currently without a Speedo and while I can use GPS, my problem is tracking miles
Send me an email for a sale quote now (GPS on WazeApp is a good backup!)
If the cylinder is cold = No sparks are happening , so check again that it is sparking,
Swap the coils & caps front and back , then the rear cylinder should be cold , and front hot
If it makes no difference swapping ignition parts = Then check the harness is actually sending signals on those lines otherwise you have a damaged circuit along the harness that’s leading to that coil
You also want to make sure for example front cylinder has a wire that is “BLACK with GREEN LINE” —> measure that line at the ECU end for breaks (dead signal / loss along the harness) or the meter will tell you the line is complete and there is no breaks.
You want to be sure the injectors are working ===> Start the bike as you would, if the cylinder is cold. Turn her off , then remove the spark plug of that cylinder, it should be very wet with fuel ? , if else swap injectors around. And see if the rear cylinder gets cold and front engine gets hot ?
Hey! 🙂
I will research more in to that product , as some one in the past tried to do something similar , he had bigger problems with his bobber later (engine later got damaged) but he was also abusing it (racing the engine too hard)
CR8E is the correct plug = It will hate CR9E a lot. No IX they hate it. Just keep it basic CR8E , if it won’t run on a factory CR8E plug, there is bigger issues likely compression problems and valves too tight.
Yes the stator & RR will make the ignition coils go funny at times
There is a guide on the forum called “Battery Test” , follow it and there is a picture inside on how to test the Stator , Coils , Caps and report the figures here.
Either way get the engine compression checked and clearances checked it will save a lot of headache later
Upgrading fuel parts just makes it easier to send fuel to carbs and run a bit smoother at higher gears if the bike is fuel starved before but as before focus on the engine first.
MotoGB (real Hyosung UK importer) wants £200 for it. Used ones on fleebay can be hit & miss unless the seller guarantees that it’s been verified (they rod the bike before stripping) . Hyosung is not making new ones for your carb model as they are moving on to the EFi 125cc starting with GV125-S (no news on new EFi GT125 yet but even then their speed sensor wont fit yours)
But I may be able to get you one rapidly for less , depends how urgent it is! Send us an email.
Otherwise I have a fully working used one from a donor bike (it will be on ebay around Thursday/Friday for purchase)
Hyosung’s wheels are unique to the GT , and the speedo sensor also acts as a big spacer. Personally I have not tried other sensors front different bikes because I stock piled my own spares (Yes it failed on me too!) and plus there is cameras everywhere , i dont trust a china speed sensor to tell me its 30mph when the wheel is rolling at 38mph and i get flashed! I think OEM is best but have a spare copy yourself too!
If i ever discover and test a genuine japan suzuki speed sensor & fits on our wheels without needing calibration, I will make it known on this site!
Hope this helps ?
Hi mate sorry I have problems with email I tray to send an email to you Just wondering how do we’re proceeding for the item ?? Also I was wondering about few orders I put last week still waiting for news
What errors do you get ?
message me here temporarily until your email is fixed:
https://www.facebook.com/people/BrewMoto/61555775510442/Orders were shipped today (I was waiting for EBC to make new brake performance pads)
In regards to the Y-Bone , i meant the upside down U shape part that’s attached to the actual shock itself, it bends more than the old gen does, even slightly might throw things off. It has to be dead straight. if you must , there must be an NOS old gen shock or a good used one instead of trying the same newer updated one (it bends eventually)
Edit , simon beat me to it lol! Yes what he said ❤
Likely thermostat issue or Thermo Sensor
Thermostat should usually open after coolant is like 80 ish degress
Check also for air in the coolant system
Replace coolant with Motul Factory Line (best coolant there is and it is already mixed to go)
Bleed system (or ask garage if unsure) to eliminate air pockets in the cylinder.The Dashboard saying 1 bar and 0 bars temp = Thermo sensor , check for “rain water” going to the plugs and use contact cleaner to remove any possible rust in pins. Allow it to dry overnight! (Would NOT recommend hair drier near the fuel tank unless its on COLD setting!!!) that is if you can’t wait overnight to check. It does happen on the 650 too, so its not alarming to have to replace the thermostat or thermo sensor
Thermo switch is also 3rd = This switch triggers the fan. It is different from Thermo Sensor (Coolant Temperature Reading)
Make sure the coolant overflow isn’t leaking and the main-radiator cap is nice and secure (don’t force it as it’s a hard object to acquire right now)
If you do go for a short ride, check the radiator is HOT , if it is ice cold = faulty thermostat (it should be flowing the coolant once engine gets to temp, then the fan will kick in to cool it when you’re stopping at traffic lights) == Fan should be off in general ride as the Wind should be cooling the whole engine and radiator.
Hope this helps , keep us posted
If you want to post a video ==> Use either Vimeo , Youtube (mark video as “unlisted” so it hides from youtube searches) , or even Google Drive/OneDrive/DropBox please and copy the share links here.
Is there any kind of structual damage to the rear swingarm of the 2010 vs the 2008 model?
Also look at the bottom of the shock where it bolts in to the Y-Bone , is it straight ? The 2010’s have a tendency to bend after a while, the 08 shocks are much better as the base is more thicker (less prone to bending) , however the 2010 shock allows the spring to be adjusted more.
Try to loosen the spring via the double adjusters at the top.
Also measure the side stands on both (incase aftermarket one was used that’s too long to tilt the bike left-wards)
Put the bike on paddock stands (both of them) , then prop the side stands , which one has a better tilt angle ==> that will tell you if the bike was dropped bad causing the “frame welding mount” where the kickstand bolts in to bend (structual integrity checks)
Ok no problem I have received ur email Just I will proceed with payment this Thursday if ok
Hello,
No problem, reply to that email we send you. If you have some other ideas to improve your ride, send me an email and i will check if that is possible so we keep her lasting longer.
Lets try it 👍I am a mechanic and we found many Universal parts for the engine but finding the starter gear compatible is really confusing
That’s because it’s proprietary to Hyosung , they make it themselves instead of outsourcing it. Unless you find another bike that has an identical flywheel and crankshaft as the GT250R and will run your stator properly and also the ECU/CDI was programmed for that flywheel’s timing points.
Regards
Just the Hyosung GT250R , and there is 3 variations of it (Carby Gen 1 , Carby Gen 2 (pre-efi/last batch) , and EFi = These also depend on the “sprag clutch” you have. So you can’t just mix and match between different Hyosung models.
Get some pictures of your gear on here and I will tell you which version you have.
Yes it is hard to get new ones globally because Hyosung has stopped making them for older models, but they made new ones only compatible with GV250DR 2018 and GV250DRA 2020-2028 Japan model. No news on GT bikes yet, they are busy updating the GV models first.
Yup, that’s Hyosung! – They use either a “stud and nut” with lock tabs OR as you witnessed on yours , “Full Concave/Countersunk Torx” bolt.
Just as they made very slight changes to how long the chain adjusters are (eg. 140 on early models vs 138 link OEM chain used on later models), and hence I no longer supply bolts for the rear sprocket as it depends what hyosung chooses to do with their hubs! – Rear sprocket not an issue , just as long the original bolts are used or replace to stainless for the same ones.
Have a good weekend!
Thanks Marcel, I’ve already sprayed all or the plugs. Is this something the isc solenoid can do?
The ISC unit is what controls the idling speed yes, unlike carbs where you have to manually set the idle & turn the choke off after a cold overnight start
