I need help on the fuses for my bike – 2008 Gt650r carb
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Bike Model = : 2008 Gt650r carb
I got gifted this bike from a friend that inherited it after his brother passed away The fuses underneath the rear passenger seat are missing and I don’t know what goes were I see two relays with 3 slots each equaling 6 empty slots he no longer has the manual so I can’t use that as a refrerence the bike currently won’t tune on and I’m afraid to damage anything if I put in the wrong type of fuse can anyone offer some advice? Please and thank you
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G’day Loyal. Your bike is exactly the same as mine; you legend. Under the rider seat there’s Headlight Relay, Indicator Relay & a 30 Amp Fuze. The relay or 2 under the rear seat or on the side of the frame. idk what they do but i will go take a photo for you.
Part Numbers:
38740HP7600 RELAY, 12V 30A
38610HR9700 RELAY, T/SIGNAL or 38610HL7300 RELAY, T/SIGNAL
The Service Manual are here: https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/download-gt-gtr-125-250-r-comet-service-manual-hyosung-owners-books/
-----LaserBeam---->
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Under my pillion seat there is only ONE Relay. Sadly the label has worn off so i can’t read it. There is a 2nd relay HOLDER next to it, but it is empty on my running bike. I’m sure there’s a relay on the side under the rear seat fairing – i didn’t get time to remove that – my pies are ready to eat. Another time bro. I’ll go through the manual see what i can find. I’d like to replace all of them myself. NOTE: Hyosung sold me a 20 Amp fuze but it was a 30 Amp in the bike & the manual. Get a 30 Amp.
RELAY under Pillion Seat & empty relay holder:
Cigarette Lighter/12Volt Power Supply & 2x USB Charge Ports + Voltage Indicator:
(Power Supplied without turning on ignition key)
-----LaserBeam---->
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thank you lazer for your help and information and after fixing the fuse issue me and my friend were troubleshooting many different symptoms and we decided to throw starting fluid straight down the intake, and the second we did that the bike came alive. It literally spit out black gunk and liquid straight out of the exhaust onto the wall, staining the house and the thing kicked alive. it revved extremely good. It was a beautiful sight thing sounded extremely healthy (only 1200 miles on the engine) and even if we turned it off, it would turn right back on with the starter fluid so we decided to call it a day come back tomorrow, take apart the carbs and clean out all the jets and so we did we put everything back to how it was and made sure all the lines went back into their correct spots and now no matter what we try even the fluid trick it will not back up start no matter what so we’re thinking it’s a spark issue because fuel is going to the carbs and there’s also good compression it cranks all day but will not start so maybe we used the last bit of spark It had left before the ignition coils gave out the only other things that I could think of are the crank shaft sensor being off or the voltage is off somewhere I put in new spark plugs so that can’t be it, what do you guys think? I really don’t wanna quit on it but I’m not the wealthiest person so I only got so much to give. I appreciate any and all help
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Glad it started up and sounded good. That’s a very good sign. New CR8E plugs & new ignition coils is a good idea. Just after market coils will be ok to test what’s going on. You can try filing or sanding the CONTACT SPOT where your existing coils touch the FRAME of the bike. Mine was rustey at those spots so electrical current would not flow well. It’s only 10mm spot on the frame where the coil & the SCREW are. You can clean the existing plugs just for the test. Double check the FUEL LINES from the FUEL PUMP, etc & check the Vaccum hoses – make sure they are FACING the right way.
The bike takes mintues to start when you put the carbies back on the bike. I usually hit the electric starter a few times, then i jump off and ROLL START the bike. Just to save my starter motor a bit. I’d pull the carby off again & spray it with Carby Cleaner. You can get little files that fit into the jets perfectly, to file them clean but you CAN’T clean the carby fully like this. Better to get a carby repair kit at some stage, with new main jets, diaphragms, float seats. etc. These kits can be inexpensive – don’t need Mikuni jets, just an aftermarket kit will help to problem-solve this starting issue. You can start the bike without the airbox & filter for a short period. This will let it have more air while standing still plus you can spray some start-up assist straight into the carbs, while your firing it up. Need the plastic straw to extend your spraycan nozzle. Put rags around so you don’t get the stuff on you cylinders or tank. The paint doesn’t like it.
Cheapest fix is probably to clean the old spark plugs, clean the carbies again with a strong carby cleaner spraycan & keep your old coils but clean their contact point on the bikes FRAME, under the screw. Each coil has 2x screws so you neeed to unscrew 4x screws, lift them up a bit then scratch the rust/paint off the FRAME until you can see metal. I did NOT put anti rust on those spots i just sprayed them with a bit of WD-40. I’ll be removing them again before the rust comes back anyway. Spray a bit of carb cleaner into the spark plug SOCKET too, not much, it’s not good for rubber but get the oil out, you want a good spark from good electrical pathways. May put some HIGH OCTANE FUEL & some Fuel System Cleaner into the tank & swap out the FUEL FILTER. Save up for some coils then ge the fuel filter 😀
-----LaserBeam---->
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Oh, you’ve got new plugs! Good. Hmm. You can test your coils & plug at the same time. It’s a bit risky. You can get a zap but you can be smart about it, (use WOOD or other ELECRICAL INSULATOR to hold the cap – the longer the better). You remove the spark plug from the bike but keep it in it’s Spark Plug CAP. With the iginition key ON, hold the CAP & move the spark plug close to the frame of the bike or an EARTH. Then press the starter for 2 seconds. If there is NO SPARK jumping from plug to the Earth, then your coils are probably gone. You have new plugs & a battery that seems to have juice … grab some 2nd hand tested coils or an aftermarket set & you should be on your way. 😎
-----LaserBeam---->
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i decided to buy a multimeter to check what is getting power and what is not and I found that the kill switch wasn’t giving the terminals on the ignition coils 12v so I decided to clean the connection and bam just like that the ignition coils where getting 12v and there was spark so I connected everything back up and it turned on had to adjust the idle throttle control cable thingy because when the bike get too low rpms it turns off but right now my new issue is the damn battery keeps losing voltage even tho it’s new and I can’t seem to put in the gear shift assembly on right but I’ll keep you updated and (I cleaned out everything that I could)
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That’s awesome news, that it fired up again after cleaning the kill switch terminals. I found my bike wants the idle screw turned up a bit, to start. Once the bike is warm, it starts revving too high, so i have to turn the idle screw down a bit. I try to set it so that the bike idles at 1400 RPM when warm. If i let it idle at 1500+RPM the bike won’t go into NEUTRAL at the traffic lights – i get annoyed holding the clutch in that long. When the REVS are lower i don’t have gear change issues.
Your battery voltage drop is a bit odd. Does that happen when the bike is just sitting there & not running (ignition OFF)? Or does it only drain when bike is running? Something is drawing power that shouldn’t be or the stator coil is NOT charging? Marcel & the guys here are more knowlegable when it comes to electrical issues. Look at the wiring harness & check for any splits or breaks in the insulation. Any exposed wires? Clean the bikes EARTH for the NEGATIVE side of the battery & check there is nothing else interfering with the current or drawing it elsewhere. I wonder if another switch is faulty & constantly drawing power. i don’t know bro, somone here will have experienced this.
As for the the GEAR SHIFT Assembley, what bit are you having trouble with? They can be annoying. What i do is UNSCREW the ROD, then mount the LEVER & the LINKAGE to the bike. Leave the ROD CONNECTED to ONE LINKAGE & let the other end of the ROD hang free. Then you undo the connected end a little bit (to give some room on the thread for adjustment & tightening). Then screw the disconnected end of the rod into place. As you screw this END IN, the other END will UNDO itself. So you need some room on the trhead to allow that to happen without the rod disconnecting and falling down. If the LEVER or the LINKAGE won’t go ON, you can seperate the parts a bit with a small flathead screwdriver. I RAISED my FOOTPEGS which gives me more ground clearance but i had to buy a LONGER ROD. I got the longer rod from a bike wrrecker and it’s not from a Hyosung but works fine. If you raise pegs and DON’T put in a longer rod, the gearshift lever will sit really high & makes it painful to operate. Note that raising the pegs makes my right heel touch the exhaust pipe, just before the muffler. So i have to be on my toes a bit. Ask Marcel & the guys about the battery drain if they don’t reply here. The good news is you can ride. My bike is sitting there waiting for an O-Ring for the rear hub & it waits for the new chain to go on that. I’ve not ridden for months. I start it every day, which sort of helps me & the bike likes that too. Don’t let the bike sit for too long without starting it. What colour is it btw? Mines Two-tone Silver & Black.
Hyosung Gear Shift Lever, Linkages & Rod:
-----LaserBeam---->
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After we solve your battery-drain issue better clean that fuel system. Tip the old petrol out so you can rinse the tank with a little bit of gas & a little bit of fuel Cleaner – swirl it around, coat as much of the inside as you can. Wash out the sludge or rust & tip it out. Poor Fuel System Cleaner into the Petrol Tank, along with some fresh high octane gas, (95 or 98 Octane) & new Fuel Filter. Can take out spark plugs & spray a bit of carby-cleaner into the combustion chamber. May help loosen sludge on the piston, the cylinder walls & maybe even the valves. Then it burns more easily & heads out the exhaust, or into the oil, where it belongs. Along with a fuel system cleaner, it’s a cheap & easy way to put some life back into the machine. Run the bike stationary at maybe 5000-6000RPM for a few seconds then let it idle & repeat. The more of that Fuel cleaner you ram in there, the better. Don’t let the bike get too hot though. The battery drain must be a park light stuck on or headlight switch or something similar, i guess but i don’t know. Marcel & the guys here should have some ideas.
LiquiMoly: if their FuelSystemCleaner is as good as their engine oil, i want some.
-----LaserBeam---->
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I just bought fairings today plus the old ones so it’s red and black lmao but I think the battery might just need a recharge or it’s dead In That case I’ll return and get a new one but there’s a new problem now what I believe to be the shift shaft circlip is broken and or the washers aswell because there too much play in the shift shaft I can move it in and out not too much to think it’s broken at the back bracket but enough play for it to slip out while riding so tmr I’m gonna take off the clutch case and inspect if it is broken I’ll replace what I can and hopefully this bike will be out of neutral for the first time in 8 months and I hope so because after spending 450$ plus as a broke person it better give me atleast one highway cruise anyways thx for your help laser ill keep you updated
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Test the stator out put on its own and report back , here is a guide below
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says “GT125R” , the results are the same for its 250cc & 650cc sister.
But alas, you really need a shingden regulator (like what you see at this store) or use the OEM one = Aliexpress/eBay knockoff regulators will mean you will be back here telling us about a fried harness and blown battery , i despise those cheap things.
Battery , get a picture up so we see what battery you got ?
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So after trying out what you said and cleaning the gas tank and fuel system I found out the battery just died since we tried starting it alot before we figured out the kill switch issue so I’m recharging it for a few hours but the shift shaft problem was a circlip issue so that was an easy 5 dollar fix (thank god and now the bike shifts so the last thing I need to do is fix the clutch perch (I have a new one coming in), adjusting the clutch cable and lastly getting the fairings and brackets back on once I do all that I’ll figure out how to send a picture of it 🙂
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Here’s a good guide on battery drains during start-up. It should help a bit: https://motorcycleguidelines.com/motorcycle-battery-drains-while-starting/
If battery is NOT charging when the engine is running for a while, it’s probably the stator coil. Not hard but can be problematic; disconnect battery, drain oil, Unplug stator electrical connector, remove stator cover, buy stator cover gasket if you damage the original & undo 5 screws job. I had issues with the job. Two of the three screws, holding stator coil in, did not come out. Then a mate wrecked the head on them. Bought used stator coil & Cover but it leaked oil. Bought aftermarket Stator Coil & it’s RUBBER GASKET, that holds it’s wires, was too tall & leaked oil like a waterfall. Finally i put my old stator coil & Cover back into the bike – only 1 screw is holding it in & made my own Stator Cover Gaket out of rubber sheet. Spent a bit of money & a lot of time for nothing.
Shop around but ask them to guarentee it works on a hyosung or you want your money back. A used STATOR COIL may be the cheapest option. They last for years, mine is 17 years old. Wrecker or eBay but ask for a VERY LOW PRICE & tell them how little it costs to get NEW parts from china, otherwise they tend to charge too much. A cheap battery charger is a good idea to allow you to charge it, ride it, get it home & repeat. Some are crazy cheap now that will repair also.
Fine adjustment at the CLUTCH lever & a greater adjustment range at the motor. Follow the cable back. You back off the nut & rotate the clutch cable’s threaded bit in or out, to alter the tension. Video guide to CLUTCH Cable adjustment on Hyosung GT650R:
-----LaserBeam---->
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once I do all that I’ll figure out how to send a picture of it 🙂
If you can’t upload pictures on this forum , just tell me what phone you use and i will try on my end incase i have to fix any bugs! (it probably means i have to redesign the entire site as its long overdue for a nicer look!)
or just go to http://www.IMGUR.com and upload your photos there…..
Then copy the “BB-CODES” from that IMGUR website , our forum will translate “BB-CODES” to full blown image galleries for all to see on this forum.
Just an alternative idea (any photo website that supports BB-CODE sharing will do, if you don’t like IMGUR’s website.)
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I have a 15 pro max but I won’t be sending anything anytime soon since I dont have a free day at all this week to finish putting in the new lines brackets, levers and fairings and it irks me so bad I’m itching to just keep on working on the bike andI won’t be able to soon 😞
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holy shit after 2 weeks I finally got the bike started the shifting problem has been solved and after spending 500 bucks on parts I took it out for my first ride ever and it was so fun I never even left 2nd gear and it was so fun I still need a new fuel line and a fuel filter but once I figure out how to send a pic I will good this feeling is amazing I just wanna keep riding it 🤩
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