♠️ M77
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I will find out, it’s been a while and i was supposed to research more info if Korea still makes such things as part of accessory kit for the GV250/650, i just didn’t get round to it , i would have like to list them at the shop section if they still can be ordered from KR.
Though using another bike floorboards means take manual measurements to make sure it still slots in your frame peg mounts.
I do seem them around here but a rare sight in the flesh!
Around here in UK, common way to strap a phone is a product called BUFFALO NAV BAG or OXFORD STRAP NAV which is mounted on the top stearing clamp and phone goes inside.
Cutting the nut is rare to mount an open nut to do what you are proposing.
Another way is to get a small mount accessory used by action cams to mount on the fuel tank cap, then it can be creatively used to mount a phone that way or gps unit.Last one, is to find a mount that goes on one of the blanking ports next to the clutch lever or brake side cylinder, this works on a newer generation bike (RC 2010+) as then it wont catch the screen. Personally i just put the phone in my pocket, then listen to gps via the bluetooth.
As for bars. The clip on bars , can be removed, in exchange for fitting a comet long bar at the top of the steering and use risers/mount assemblies.
The GTR clamp has blanks under neath that can be drilled through, and allow tapping new 8mm threads.
The only issue there is the screen catching on older generation hyosungs when turning lock to lock , but its less of an issue on newer generation hyosungs as the screen is a bit smaller and more forwards away from the steering area.If the bike uses original filter and exhaust , then its a full stock machine. Also check lambda/oxygen sensor thats in the pipe too. If you had a service book next to you, may prompt the dash to display an FI error code that the ecu may tell you what’s the underlying issue ? Also consider to check intake related sensors on it too.
Hey,
Go ahead chop the flange off and slip-on a normal full size 51mm can 👍
cheers marcel the right hand mini harness did have a break in it. all sorted but took forever and an age to find it .wheres a.the dry weather gone ,cant wait to get out for a proper blast
Fantastic! Ride steady fella, glad the wiring was the suspect that i was thinking about mainly. Keep it safe from weather elements then it should be all good and enjoy the summer ahead lol
Are you able to attach a picture of it ? “Add media” button in the reply box.
Is there a part that isn’t working ie, lights or speed not registering etc?
Hey,
If we get the electrics out of the way first (spark) then we can deal with the “fuel” & “air” elements of the situation you’re having. If unsure of what to do, I may quote one of the replies i made on an earlier topic similar to this… So get a meter out and probe the following….
- Confirm the stator blue/green plug is 100 ohms optimal (bike turned off & COLD)
(that’s your flywheel sensor, tells your CDI what to do as it spins and sends spark signals) - Stator yellow plug has 3 pins so do Pin 1/Pin3 | Pin2/Pin3 | Pin1&2
They must say UNDER 1 OHM (one number) as per books. (Bike OFF)
Alternatively below: - Stator yellow plug (all 3 pin combinations)=> It must say 85V around 5k revs max
(Bike running ofcourse, 85-99v is optimal from books)
This thing is just as crucial as the reg to supply electrics or it wanes & bogs other parts down. (aka ignition system starts from this thing) - Go to battery => Rev around 2k-5k max=> 14v-15v is what should be reported.
(Any 13.x => replace the reg => whatever revs above 2k)
(Connect the stator back while doing this)
(Reg & stator go down with each other in tandem sometimes, common) - Now, turn whole bike off. Go to your Frame Coils (front & rear) and confirm:
A => HT lead (red meter) and FRAME ground (black meter) are 6,000 ohms strong
B => Coil “TERMINAL PIN” and “frame ground” => UNDER 1 OHM (one number)
(0.6 is typical for a healthy unit)
Do this for front and rear. Write all hard figures down from all tests and let us know. - ========================
Now to your intake system:
- Spray carb cleaner UNDER THE MANIFOLDS going to engine….
If revs change => Then you need to replace the intake O-rings under the manifolds. - Spray the carb intake rubber pipes
If the rubber pipes change revs -> You may have a potential split or tiny hole leaking out on the rubber pipe itself. - Spray the “METAL CLAMPS” under the airbox holding the carb
As before, if revs change, your clamps are loose or check the airbox HOLE isn’t cracked. The whole carb goes inside it. - Spray test the “metal clamps” holding the carbs to the manifold rubber pipes or check the rubber pipes didn’t get a slit/tear from the carb sitting on it (mouth openings at the rubber pipes)
- Air filter should be secure and not dirty or it makes things boggy later on.
Fueling side……
- Your tap should be squirting fuel in to the filter every time you blip the throttle, if its a clear looking filter and isn’t dirty/clogged.
- Fuel Pump rarely fails but particles can get to it if the filter is bad.
You can open it and look through its glass window. - Strong vacuum is crucial to keep the taps & pumps pulsating fuel through.
Carb side….
If we get the above ^ checked, then carb is the last item to deal with. This is also assumed the mixture screws were not tampered with (should never be), then yes a mega clean top/bottom does wonders to it (it has many passages). Carb will be as good as the sparking & air system or vise versa. The forum has the jetting tutorial, slide tutorial also.
Float heights crucially to be 7mm exactly, that’s your fuel input control.Plug side…
Conside the plugs may have wanned (not firing as good as before), and potential replacement may be warranted.
Don’t change the gaps, even the basic CR8E is already 8mm as the books say keep the plugs unmodified or it will run strange, NGK already gapped them. Just stay away from “IX” branded ones, they are junk. Basic CR8E or Laser is enough for the hyosungs.Hope this helps, good luck.
Reply edited just to hide full reg & engine number from the public.
Just waiting on your mechanic since we have resumed this on the email chain now, it is indeed strange the one you have isn’t supposed to be there , despite the sent one has the right part number & *GV125* marked , so just updating this thread to say we’re on standby 👍
-M
I had loads but sold out this week, will need a month to try buy more in bulk, the breakers charge me 60 per piece
MotoGBHyosung trade in the UK wants 98 a piece i can’t justify myself paying loads in bulk either!
I may still have a rear 125 probably still in drawer if it isn’t sold already, you may end up having to email if still needing it
Gotta have them while you can as EFI will world will take over soon and the production of these things will stop, its a shame only KRMotors makes these strangely shaped things! lol. I digress.
Also check the UK owners club on facebook as there is 1 or 2 lads breaking their bikes, you may ask them if they still have the engine manifolds for cheaper probably.
Germany, and much of EU, UK are places where 125s are common place but their stores ? That’s another story! – US is all 250 and 650 commonly which is no suprise so not much of a dedicated trade network over there to supply 125 intake boots.
If push comes to shove, try me in a month, i may convert to 250 intake system inc correct air box as the rubbers are in different shapes and styles! – I usually do this on customer bikes dropped off to me.
Hey,
There is about 4 revisions off my head (visually speaking) about them dash units but dare i say, all manual clocks always have the individual bulbs as i’ve seen them my self to fix em. The Carby dash for GTR is digital 100% (old gen), as i own one. The only bulbs i could change was for the tacho side mostly.The white(dash) ones you have sometimes look all black, or have different color dails but why yours is totally digital for 2010! is a surprise , i went to the parts book again, it does look like the LCD panel is not even sold on its own anymore in UK , except a complete unit (which is too much money!)
Your indicators light up on the dash in one side ? I have a strong suspicion about the “mini” harness that the dash uses to connect to the frame of the bike – Get a multi meter , set to a few thousand ohms or something. See if each coloured wire has a complete circuit from end to end of the plug terminals? –
ie. Green end to end should NOT be zero but numbers jumping to infinity, this is assumed the wire is okay and check the terminals themselves are not corroded or anything including the dash unit itself.
Speaking of green = check your bulbs flash on the right side of the fairings front and rear, and their “GREEN” wire is also connected to the dash unit (to tell you its flashing right side) – Last thing to check was the whole bike harness itself , indicators for the right is green color wire, light green.
I do hope it doesn’t fail, i did PASS an MOT on the Comet donor when the LEFT dash bulb wasn’t showing up but the tester could see the indicators themselves were flashing though and i can see them when i am sat on the bike, so it didn’t bother me too much in the past. An advisory is a like a mission to fix the dash (hopefully without needing to replace the whole LCD unit!)
Hey,
That pipe is what we call a “breather / overflow” pipe for the engine. You are correct to say that it faces the road downwards. The only job you have to do is make sure its slit is free from chain grease or road grime from time to time that’s all fella 👍
Ride steady out there!
Hey,
I would start by sorting the entirety of the clutch basket. Which is what youre most likely dealing with; as some of the issues regarding gearing you mentioned are too common when the entire clurch starts to wane.
When the clutch cover is off ; also look under the clutch basket where the FOOT LEVER SHAFT joins the cogs there. The teeth should be good and is also the clutch basket stiff (bearings good), basket sprockets good. Visual inspection basically while the clutch is overhauled.
The gearbox is the last last last thing anyone wants to deal with. If you can shift to 5th. Assume your prawl forks are still intact.
I would deal with the clutch first before gearbox (hopefully not as its a whole other discussion and more time on your hands 😬)
Stay safe yourself too, a bit windy at the moment , safe to say i will be in the barns tinkering with something till then lol.
You will look after your Hyosung for sure 👍
Hello Mick,
I will assume this is the “white dash” as 250s beyond 2010 were EFI ofcourse. So the top side icons of the dash have their individual bulbs that light up separate to the LCD below them.
You would open the dash unit carefully, and you will see that it has small 12v bulbs which are called “Wedge fitting” similar to those of the older naked hyosungs with Manual Clocks.
Off my head (i hope!) is a size T6.5 wedge 12v bulb. The bulb will also be marked on it what size it is and its watts (i believe t6.5, 1.2 or 2 watts, 12v)
LED replacement is rarely mentioned from me also, as most of them are chinese junk (they will die out again sooner, so if in doubt, the original “filament glass type” bulbs last better generally if its from Osram , Philips and the like etc,)
My own dash is an 08, the RPM side went dark after 6yrs of daily use, i simply just replaced it with the same filament bulb , didn’t bother with LED’s .
I don’t think hyosung did anything drastic in 2010 to prevent owners replacing that bulbs that flash the icons at the top of the dash (such as FI, <== ==> , HiBeam, etc…)
I hope this info helps, let us know how you get on. If i missed something, let us know also.
Following the old thread, i wanted to quote my old reply, here:
Perharps another trick as I have done with the EFI bike i own, is that i had to drop the engine a little bit to access the injector system:
– Try getting a jack and place it under the engine, loosen the engine mounts at bottom rear.
– Leave the top rear mount intact, but loose.
– Remove the front mount, the engine will lower towards the front in a diagonal fashion, so that its slanted towards the tyre.
– Remove the side air-filter unit.
– For your bike, loosen the carb clamps
– Being extremely gentle = > Lift the air chamber unit up and forwards towards the bike
– Ofcourse get the oil cooler out of the way (2 bolts drops it down)Unless the engine is dropped down, it’s a creative & gentle process to get the air chamber out, i know the frame-bar is in the middle, strange design is all i can say lol.
Marking this as resolved as we got your email and fulfilled the order.
Just a quick update, the part numbers that are on the czeck site (Hyosungmoto.cz) do work. I tried them on the uk hyosung parts request page and they emailed me back the price and shipping cost but all in US dollars? Prices were little steep 30$ for an outside pulley plate then 20$ postage. Just confused why i requested parts on the uk site but pricing was in US dollars? Just wondering to if this will be the fate of all hyosung models? In a few years time they will discontinue parts? Bit of a worry.
My dealer locally has the actual paper back book with part numbers on it written Korean, if I ever have to match them up or something
Hyoparts/sparesUK, .nz, .eu = are shell companies that are run by overseas people. They are correct to mention stuff in dollars anyway , as that’s the easiest global currency to convert to UK pounds or euros , etc.
The only company i know that is a real importer in uk (with an actual UK base) is MotoGB but they don’t appear to stock what you have. Sinnis will be importing future hyos under EFI ones anyway starting with their latest GV125 Bobber S.I’ve not found out the true cost of your parts, if the site you use says they have it for true? Then I guess that’s an option there. As for shipping/logistics , it’s up to them what couriers they use and if the parcel is weighty to ship it to UK.
Hmmm, when you ring up tomorrow, ask for Martin or Anthony, i’ve met them personally, so i hope they help you find a way to get that motor going.
Ask also for BOOMER125 / GPS125 Hyper parts and possibly they can try to order it alternatively abroad, if no stock is in the shop or the UK wholesellers they use for parts etc..
I’m not 100% sure the Hyosung Boomer has the same shaft, as i never seen the bike in the flesh, but i have a gut feeling it could fit! – that gy6 ebay listing you saw , would be a gamble that’s for sure.
I suppose talking to the seller with dimensions etc , might get some light in to the situation with yours to match up, if going through the aftermarket route.
CNC cloning that shaft might dent the bank balance, if some fabricator dares take on the challenge. Just throwing the idea out there!
Since the rear rim is a JMT 3.50 , it would want a size 150/70 tyre and also since the rotating mass/ circumference stays the same.
A 140 might under/over read the speedo (ie. 30mph becomes 35 or 27 depending on its rest of dimensions of tyre). 160/60 is the limit but its pushing it, it will still keep the speedo the same though 👍I would stay with the stock size as it wins handling wise also.
Hey Karl,
You are correct to say it’s a rarity as they ain’t imported in UK anymore and much lower numbers are still on the road still to this day, it’s a case of relying on social media sites to see if there is someone selling a crashed version to salvage parts from , believe me , I know how it is. There was a guy selling one a long while ago for cheaps , it was on the Hyosung Owners Facebook group, a deep trawl through the posts may be warranted, we don’t know if it was sold on by now.
You could try phoning Startrights Leeds and say Marcel sent you, as they are still one of the oldest hyo dealers , sometimes their stock may include old GA cruise parts , but i am 50/50 on when it comes to the Korean Hyosung scooters.
They do service a lot of chinese scooters each week though, so they have connections with MotoGB (the UK importer) to try to backorder some parts , it is worth trying fella 👍
- Confirm the stator blue/green plug is 100 ohms optimal (bike turned off & COLD)
