♠️ M77
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Find some one breaking a donor bike in Nigeria or a neighbour country in Africa that can ship to you quickly
2012 = Daewoo ECU , very rarely globally and tends to be problematic.
If you see a 2016 crash GT650R in your country, take it because it uses the better Delphi ECU and harness
You have the HANKUK Korea coils (early Daewoo ones) , Hyosung used other companies to make that particular coil , it is the same as these ones we stock up
Your OEM ones will have green writing that says GT650 or GV650 (same coils these 2009 models share)
Hyosung left Australia many years ago (no news yet if they will return), unless you find a good set of used ones locally if in a mega hurry
Does the front even spark ?
If not ==> Put the REAR coil to the front and tell us if it sparks ?
You can upload a picture of your current coil on here if possible ? Try now.
GV Aquilas have different coil sizes now and Hyosung has made multiple revisions under the hood that’s why.
Not that i know of sorry , peharps a local 3d print shop in your country can replicate your fairings if you get a spare one from a crashed bike ?
Unless you get a flywheel puller tool from the USA eBay (it should be there) then the other method (possibly) involves these 2 parts
Step 1 =
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FTVOGUE-Adjustable-Spanner-Flywheel-Motorcycle/dp/B09Y111WH6
That part can hold the drum tight so you can UNDO the nutStep 2 =
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yfS1yJ0wL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpgMeasure the diameter of your Hyosung flywheel center where the threads are with a venier caliper , as 250 will either be needing a 30mm or 35mm puller tool – i can’t remember myself correctly as i haven’t stripped a bike this winter
This should help you hopefully!
It would be a good idea to also check for a spare ECU in your area and hold on to it, sometimes the microchip inside the ECU could act funny and not reset properly.
As long as you have used the service manual and a pocket meter to verify readings of the IAP sensor and also check the connection from the PLUG CONNECTOR of harness going all the way back to the ECU block is good for signal consistency (like for example if one wire from the sensor is Orange with Blue Line ==t> follow it to the ECU and probe both ends with a meter to make sure the circuit is good, and there is no kinks or damage on the harness that could twist the little wire)
Simon generally says on the forum to always clean connectors , if the pins are heavily oxidized or too dirty, this can increase OHMS (resistance) which the ECU thinks Sensor is reporting 300 ohms but it is not true, the sensor said 100 ohms when i put it on the table in kitchen , so wiring harness cleanliness helps keep resistance down as it commicates back to the ECU
Don’t even use liquids on the ECU plug , use compressed air and blow it hard on the ECU pins and also ECU plug , wait to dry , sometimes some compressed air cans have liquid gas fumes! – If you use an electric compressor , then its fine as its just blowing air only , if using electric air compressor, be gentle as some electric compressors can blow very hard, we would not want to blow off a fragile ECU pin!
When the weather is warm , go for a ride up and down your street and see how you feel and watch its behaviour too. Dont ride in the rain , until you can be sure your electrics wont get water ingress!
Is it the rubber one? and is it 2 gaskets (front and rear , or just x1 for one cylinder head?)
I myself need also a rubber gasket as the rear engine of customer bike is leaking oil, so it was frustrating as i was finishing my job. I am on the hunt too.
Send me an email please below and i will tell if i found it or not from my suppliers then i will ask your address in email for postage cost.
I really hope yours is NOT too bad and still can be saved ? – it is getting harder to get 650 gaskets! (Which is funny as Hyosung is still making 650cc engine, they just released a GV650PC ABS EFi , so i will try to contact one of the EU importers)
6 times ? I would definitely recommend real japan proper mosfet regulator kits like the ones we do on the shop, as the stock/replicar regulators fail more than the stator does. It is just an idea.
Right now, the bike is still charging OK!
Temps = Thermostat and FAN Switch Sensor , these 2 will go crazy from time to time, so i would check your thermostat. Also the FAN switch or Engine Temp Sensor should be checked to see if they are in spec
Testing the sensor involves using a pocket meter to check for OHMS readings and use the 650R service manual on this forum ==> the bike manual will advise what figures your sensors must have.
Don’t dip them in water as the contacts will go bad! (But it is OK to put only the “gold tip” inside the warm water on your table == get a glass home thermometer , put it inside the bowl , it will say water from your kettle is 55c , so go to the manual and look for 55c , the sensor could be saying 700 OHMS at 55c but the manual says it must be 400 OHMS , this means the sensor is reading out of spec ? Do this a few times to get a consistant figure before deciding to replace it or not)
Thermostart , it should open at the temperature the manual says , otherwise you have trapped boiling coolant in the cylinders and ECU turns the fan on , but the thermostat did not OPEN to send hot fluid to radiator! – Just a possibility.
Also try MOTUL FACTORY LINE coolant = It is my favourite bike coolant ever. It just does the job well. Castrol “might” be OK but i don’t trust their OILS!
When you re-flush , be sure not to have trapped air in the cooling system too.
Keep us posted & good luck.
I typically replace the oil/filter every 1000km or so (The bike is only 6000 km old). I’ll try that Motul 7100 and see how it is. Sometimes I can use my electric start for a few minutes after I’ve been riding for a while and the oil is hot. To be completely honest I’ve never opened the bike to that extent before, so I am a little nervous. I was going to order a flywheel puller, and I was trying to find the correct size gasket first before I do anything. Relay and starter are on the way so I will let you know how it goes next week!
Take your time, you got this!
It is a GT125 Carb Model? what year ? and does it look like this ?
I have 2x used ones in stock, this is the 1st one i have:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257122314120
and this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257288241573
ebay should allow Global Shipping already in the checkout , if it fails, send me an email ON HERE (not ebay messages) and i will make a quote , as ebay wont like sellers making transactions inside ebay messages.
If not, we will wait for the picture – It sounds like an LCD display failure?
Great ride , that smile says everything.
I envy your sunshine and sea front views , while we are in the snow unable to ride just yet , you will be okay over there with that GV250, it will keep going 🙂
What is actually wrong with it ?
And post a picture on your next reply please if you can.
I think I have the only GV250 in Hawaii haha.
Find hawaiians on social media and see if there is a biker community there and ask around, you will be surprised there could be one more. I am suspicious we have a member on here with a GD250 EXIV model but i could be wrong, if its true it could mean they have not posted in the forum for a long while.
In regards to your starter issue.
Replace the starter motor first, and crank on full throttle with a new relay. Test and report back ?
You can also carefully , extract the flywheel out of the bike and look at it , if it is under 10,000 miles old, I don’t expect issues with the flywheel system yet i hope not.
If in doubt, upload here what you see.
If you drain oil, replace it with Motul 7100 (very very good oil!) and get a fresh oil filter. Better to replace oil OFTEN as you like to keep the engine healthy as possible.
I change oil every 1,000 miles on my bikes. It is OCD / Crazy but i’d rather waste the oil than scream at engine replacements lol. The local recycle plant should take your old oils and they will re-use it for something else so you’re not killing the enviroment.
Welcome and upload a picture of your ride!
It could be a curse for you but it should not be, be the one that has a bike that isn’t common , gets more attention heads turning.
Having a Hyosung will make you a good mechanic eventually 😉
Take good care of it!
Hey bro my gd250r engine cuts off after about 30min of riding when I let off the throttle
Already responded to your own thread.
It may be that you will need to check the injector and lambda sensor, get to the ECU to get error codes if possible.
If not, check the fuel pump too.
Then also check the TPS unit , if it shuts off and won’t idle back.
You didn’t tell us if the bike starts right away after dying , if there is a flashing red light etc….. So do the above ^ and report back your findings.
Good luck!
Get a venier caliper that has long arms and measure the external size where you want to cut it (it could slop down from 56 to 50 the further down you go.)
Depending where the pipe is cut, the exhaust may even downsize to less than 51mm if its cut down too far.
So at the 3 bold flange , go inside the exhaust hole, get a vernier caliper and measure the hole size , if its something like 47mm,. then the exterior would be about 49mm (depends how thick the wall is. Measuring the diameter outside is better if you can.
You are right to ask, some 650 owners chop their pipes and put some kind of adapters (makeshift) or even make entirely custom pipe setup if the old system is corroded,
Measuring is the best way to be accurate (and i will assume you still use OEM pipes)
Take your time, no rush as we don’t ride much in this ice this week ourselves in the UK
Do you have any pod filters on the bike ? and would you say you are using stock CR8E plugs ?
If possible, try and see if you can gather fresh set of CR8E plugs from halfords if they are open now , and go for a short ride when it is safe (ice is on the way!)
Come back, take pictures of the plugs, and show us. This way i can try make a judgement based on how the threads look and how it also looks inside.
So get side view and inside view of the plugs.
Do a compression test again after its hot.
Spray carb cleaner on the rubber intake pipes = did revs change ?
Spray carb cleaner on the airbox rubber openings that swallow the carb (especially the front carb doesn’t always get fully swallowed by the airbox_
Jetting is fine as long as it is 90F / 92.5R and 15 Pilots (both cylinders)
Mixture Screws = Be very careful here as it is easy to round them off. — If you see a _____ dash___ make a mark on the carb, then count down the FULL turns clockwise until it stops , then go back to where it was. Eg. I screwed down the front cylinder, and it was 1 full circle and then half a circle , this means 1.5 full turns downwards or 1.5 full turns from stop to counterclockwise. Least we know what mixture it is.
Mid Range RPM = Have a look at this topic to see if it will help ?
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
High RPM = Does it do high RPM at any gear at all (peak power is at 9-10k rpm, so you definitely don’t want to redline those pistons anyway) No more power after 11k rpm as valves start floating and premature wear happens faster. Staying under 10k is good and it will thank you.
Coils = Please report the OHMS readings for the coils (without HT cap attached)
CAPS = are they stock caps ? (problematic!) = 99% of us switch to NGK caps where possibl,e (DO NOT USE PLASTIC NGK caps , they will crack too!) , we use rubber versions, like you see on the site. If not , for a cheap fix, get another good set of stock HT CAPS on ebay from a local UK seller.
HT CAPS OEM = 7-10K OHMS on their own is good. (10 thousand yes max)
Coils = Sorry here is the link to test before i digress!
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Test your stator = Trust me if the pulser/sensor acts funny, so does the CDI and coils, ignition/sparks/timing starts with the magneto/stator.
You got this and happy holidays!
