♠️ M77
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God forbid , well on a carb motor, that’s got damaged carbs (burst floats etc) and it would mean the oil stinks heavily of fuel when drained and comes out like black water , could be another tale-telle sign .
Injected bikes not so much as injectors stay shut when the bike is OFF , as does the electric pump
Although i would not discount the likelyness of Coolant (Radiator Anti Freeze) or Oil making its way to places it should not (expect a creamy looking oil! – God forbid)
You’re on to something there…. Just hope its nothing major
It sounds stupid, if the bike’s stator casing was hit hard and didn’t break, check inside to make sure the holes where the idler shaft sits is not bent in anyway causing the idler gear to skew a little bit instead of staying purely straight. Spirit levels can be handy if done right!
Me a marvel at the same time 😹
What are the odds! 🙀
Stay warm sir , it’s getting icy these mornings again!
You could do a full compression test first (get the readings and let us know what the pistons said) , then carefully take off the cam chains & take apart the valve head.
if i read correctly? you said it skipped the cams ? – So i suspect (guessing) that there is 1 valve that was hit by the piston , even just a smidge , if the valve has, it will show itself when you remove the valve heads off the bike. Tedious process but its the only way to be sure. You can also do leak-down tests (plenty videos on youtube, sorry i couldn’t make a tutorial on the forum just yet)
If we can be sure the whole engine is 100% checked over and you put new head gaskets on , then we move up to the electric side of things but we cross this bridge until the engine is verified first. Valve Clearances do help also.
Sounds like your TPS needs checking (throttle position sensor) and your Idle Control Valve (idle Stepper Motor) = These help regulate idling on the bike.
Check engine clearances (are valve clearances too tight?) or check engine compression too.
This topic below could help, as it goes in more detail on the EFi system
Check the ECU for any error codes, see the manual below to get error codes or “how many times the Red FI” light will flash, see below:
[Download] GT GTR 125 250 R Comet Carby & EFi Service Manual & Hyosung Owners Books
Sorry to hear that after all the effort , a fall forces you back to the garage to sort it out again! Hopefully its nothing major, forgive me for asking a series of questions , but i will be targeting the crank itself now.
1. Can you spin the flywheel by hand and if you do, do you hear any hiss sounds as thepistons move up and down ?
2. Oil was coming out of the intake rubber pipes ? what do you mean? Not unless the “engine overflow” pipe is connected to the airbox rather than overflowing itself down to the road surface (like most hyosungs do) i know EFI models have their engine outlets / breathers go all in to the airbox.
3. If you had a friend or family member with you , sit on the bike, let them push you down the street and you shift to 2nd gear or 3rd gear , will it bump start at ? (we are bypassing the starter motor to verify the engine doesn’t lockup by itself) ,excercise caution though , it may jerk and shoot forward hard , so being cold and icy , the road conditions may be unsafe for sudden tail spins or braking. Just be wise!The key here is making the crank fully spins by hand when you rotate the flywheel manually in both directions. Just to confirm nothing got misaligned when the impact / shock of the bike falling caused something to rattle (it shouldn’t since it just fell in the grass than a jagged concrete surface, i would be more likely to loose my clutch casing or stator casing if it fell hard on to a sharp rock/boulder)
Beautiful tutorial!!!! Very well explained there sir 💖🚀👍
I will link this to the product page so it gets more coverage.
It is a good shout about the bolts , maybe i will get some stronger ones and stock them too just incase other riders need it too.
Please let me know if you source spares. I’ve only seen hyospares but I’m aware that they’re scammers
We got you , just keep an eye on shop , or send an email if you don’t see the part you want and I will verify if we had any luck in the supply chain.
I will try though!
Rolled her downhill in 2nd gear. I’ll keep looking.
Suspecting Stand , Clutch and RO Sensor but could be all 3 at once , working on getting those myself
Neutral should be fine if you can see gear numbers or the green N sign, if its make sure the plug or wires don’t get damaged , wet season now!
Hmm,
– This appears to be carb related or the bike is being “choked on a leash” for some reason.Can we confirm what size jets are on your bike both Pilots and Mains ?
And turn your mixtures downwards (clockwise until they stop) – — COUNT the number of full turns. It’s important, then go back to how it was.
Ie. Front is 3.5 full turns OUT and Rear is 3.75 (3 and 3/4) turns OUT , so we can assess the mixtures.
Confirm:
– Are pod filters being used?
– Cracks on the rubber pipes holding carbs to engine heads
– new air filter?
– CR8E new plugs (if CR7 or CR9 = bin them) (If “IX” branded plugs = bin them , use stock CR8E or CR8E LASER) and beware of fake NGK’s .Electrical = Do these tests below and report back to this topic with your figures:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
If we get more indepth , we can find out what the bottle neck was.
Engine (last war)
– Compression test
– Leak test (little o-rings inside the rubber pipes can cause all kinds of issues , so advised to get fresh ones)
– Slipping clutch?
– Valve Clearances (too tight = lower speeds) or too loose (lower power)Stand Switch would be #1 and then replacing the Clutch Switch (would not bypass it) as if the ECU thinks you’re holding the clutch all the time , it might get funny as I can’t fully confirm how much Hyosung has programmed their ECU to depend on user actions (rather than bypasses) If you said GV125 carb model = it would not matter as Hyosung didn’t always include stand switches or clutch switches , they didn’t matter too much. Also in my experience one of my bikes was in NEUTRAL (according to the dash) and i pushed start , it rolled and fell down , so false neutrals are rare and can happen , hence “hold clutch in” before starting is enforced on these 2018+ new models of bikes coming out now. Neutral Switch , complicated as it is also a gear counter, so i would not mess with it. ECU may read what gear you’re in to optimize ignition behavior etc
I got her bumpstarted. Does this mean that the safety switches haven’t failed?
How did you bump start it ?
And for parts = working on it. Look out for bits being displayed on the shop as i now have extra supply chain links to get stuff without depending on South Korea all the time. keeps us on the road sooner.
I’ll send an email for a quote, the reg rec you sent me earlier, it will work fine with my bike right? Just to confirm.
I personally take the extra days to make the connectors and build the mini harness to fit your bike , i can never encourage wire chops to be fair (this bike just went up in smoke now, click here…..) , part of the cost is labour making those harness pig tails for the reg-rec and buying the special big connectors as you found out, they are quite specific size , and i have to be sure the regulator is also good after its stripped from another bike but it’s best to read the whole link i gave you earlier so you can understand what this kit is (what’s inside the box etc) (& extra time needed)
I do the same thing for various models like these down here
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Magneto – Hyosung GV250 GT250 [EFi DELPHi 2011-2015]
And no worries about the uploader, if it works for others it’s fine. I’m okay with sending links.
Thank you and sorry again you have been a great help spotting bugs! – Technology is never perfect! – I will keep fighting, less hoops for you the better 🙂
Stand Switch would be #1 and then replacing the Clutch Switch (would not bypass it) as if the ECU thinks you’re holding the clutch all the time , it might get funny as I can’t fully confirm how much Hyosung has programmed their ECU to depend on user actions (rather than bypasses)
If you said GV125 carb model = it would not matter as Hyosung didn’t always include stand switches or clutch switches , they didn’t matter too much.Also in my experience one of my bikes was in NEUTRAL (according to the dash) and i pushed start , it rolled and fell down , so false neutrals are rare and can happen , hence “hold clutch in” before starting is enforced on these 2018+ new models of bikes coming out now.
Neutral Switch , complicated as it is also a gear counter, so i would not mess with it. ECU may read what gear you’re in to optimize ignition behavior etc
Batteries and regulators are known to do 100% just that. Fry everything connected to the harness.
Poor bike was not expecting a regulator or battery to kill it. Granted Knockoff regulators (aliexpress ones) or Stock OEM regulators are usually the #1 or #2 i frequently advise people to move up to the Shingden Units (japanese) like what you see on the store but a volt meter attached to the bike can warn the rider while riding that charging system is exceeding 15V limit that Hyosung wants.
Replace the dash its fried. + harness (MAKE SURE the harness & dash match! – If you put a 2012 dash to a 2007 harness, it will go in smoke instantly!)
+ CDI + Reg Rec + StatorIt will be good to go again!
I suspect that you could benefit to replace the HT caps (burst resistors) , use NGK ones , get new OEM coils – We now have sparks!
Things like Lights + Indicators + Relays can be replace bit by bit if there is any budget constraints.
OEM part is infamous but it works until it doesn’t , so no way to tell you how long it lasts , some pop within weeks/days of use and some carry on for years of light-usage but the complaints generally outweigh their benefits , ask the Australians in their bike groups , as such a hot climate down there is making sure its the #1 thing they upgrade before tyres!
I fixed the image uploader but , if you reply one more time and you can’t see it, then it is on me to really force it & reset everyone, incase their devices/browsers saved copies of the old Reply Box. Again , sorry about this!
Clutch Switch , Neutral Sensor , RO Sensor (Roll Over Sensor) , Magneto Pulse Trigger (part of the stator unit)
(mini)baby 6-sided sockets with a swivel works best , 12-sided sockets or spanners are not good. Spray a little bit of penetrant fluid on the bolts and leave to soak overnight, incase there is some kind of rust that was heat fused (joining the bolt and throttle body down) . Also 6-sided O-spanners work best , forget C-shape spanners as they always slip out.
TPS , here is some links that apply to the 250cc too
[Tutorial] How to replace Gt650r throttle position sensor (TPS)
Your TPS is held down by 1 bolt , but some models have TPS held down by 2 bolts, principle is the same. – Usually it is less frustrating to get a new one than trying to fix an old one , incase the rotating contacts inside the old TPS have broken down.
13.5v is the lowest acceptable limit , but caution to upgrade the regulator in the future. Don’t buy knock off aliexpress ones please, they WILL fry the bike!
Though , you can still get yourself another OEM one at your local dealer , if you want to keep it original , personally i use Shingden Japan regs (what you see on the shop) , then again , Shingden gets a LOT of fakes online too but that’s a whole other conversation as I am digressing sorry.
Bike seems OK from what you said, so go have fun 🙂
Thanks for confirming. I didn’t get the parts on this site because I saw UK shipping. I used HyosungWholesale. Do you ship internationally? And would you have this specific regulator rectifier 32800HN9121?
Yes totally! – but we never sell OEM regulators (can’t trust them personally) as they have caused issues since 2001.
We do Shingden kits like these:
REAL MOSFET Upgrade Regulator Rectifier (Reg Rec) – GV125-S Bobber (GV125S EFi Aquila)
Just send an email with your address for shipping quotes
PS. Upload an image of your regulator (the GD one that’s fitted to your bike) right here and we can see if the image uploader works. As i spent a few hours fixing bugs and adding some extra programming to force the button to appear.
