Non-start (no fuel pump prime)-new owner – 2018 Gt650r
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Bike Model = : 2018 Gt650r
Hiya I’ve just picked up a 2018 Gt650r with just 4.5k on it as a project but it won’t start-fuel pumps not even priming at the mo.
So I picked it up as a project this wk for a great price but can’t get it going as yet.
i have it on pretty good authority it was in good condition and running well but it got taken & attempted to Hotwire but failed to start & hasn’t since apparently and has been stood for a while.
I think it’s been dropped onto its side & is now covered in mud.
The electrics don’t seem messed about with apart from the ignition wires cut (it looks like it’s on its original regulator).
Anyway the issue, it turns over fine with clutch in, in neutral with light on, and side stand up or down, but doesn’t fire up at all, I can hear the killswitch ‘operating’ but the fuel pump makes no ‘priming’ noise.
When I flick the killswitch on/off 3 times nothing comes up, there’s no CHE illuminated on dash.
But the red Fi light doesn’t illuminate.
Apart from that the dash illuminates fine, the Rev counter sweeps on startup, but I’ve noticed on turning over the rpm needle doesn’t move.
From what I can tell the side stand switch seems caked in mud. (As I’ve said I think it’s been on its side)
When I first tried it there was no power at all, but swapped the spare main fuse in and that restored power enabling me to turn it over.
The only other thing is, although the rear lights illuminated and the ‘passing’ beam light comes on the dipped and beam do not light up.
i was going to try and bypass the side stand switch + maybe swap that relay around- is that easy?
And anymore tips in getting this started?
Thanks v much
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That’s a multi-issue there hmm, lets try to address the pump.
If the ECU senses the bike isn’t good or if the ECU is toast = The pump won’t prime.
The ECU directly controls the pump, so maybe we either have a burst fuel pump relay and fuse
(On some 2018 models = the pump has its own “Relay” and its own “fuse” = So 2 things here just for the pump)Headlights = Relay may be burst ? Without the relay, the lights stay OFF unless bulbs have gone burst at the front, the rear is all LED, so should just light up.
Also LEFT switch gear & Right Switch gear = Directly control the lights too, so if either of them are faulty or have issues with contacts , the lights stay off.
You will want to replace all the fuses (If its 15A , use 15A and some fuses are 20A , 30A etc. So match them accordingly as you would not want a 40A fuse on a 30A slot
You will also want to replace all the relays.As for the pump = Double check the stand, bypass again , verify the same wires at the ECU are complete, so the ECU can sense it. (On carb bikes = If the clutch switch or stand switch are dead, the CDI would cut the sparks off, so principal is the same for EFi models)
Buy a backup ECU just incase, it would make troubleshooting much easier too.
Test the stator using this topic and verify , confirm the readings?
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
ECU won’t tell if the coils are dead or not, so use that same link to check your coils and confirm their readings? = if the pump primes back to life but there is no sparks , the ECU may get shot , we don’t know if they got water damaged , as you said you found places of mud and water ingress on the electrics.
While you can, disconnect everything on the bike, and try to test every sensor with a meter ? = Tedious process but helps narrow everything down.
Browse this forum and get the latest service manual , they have picture tutorials on how to test each sensor.
Since the sensors are out of the bike, this is a good time to remove the harness and clean every connector with Contact Cleaner. All Hyosung 650 ECU’s for whatever reason are more sensitive to resistance changes in the wires (oxidization etc…) unlike carb models. Hence Hyosung Korea tried to replace most plugs with waterproof japanese connectors. but it still can’t hurt to double check.
Hope this helps and keep us posted!
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It helps a hell of a lot Marcel- thanks v much for that, am away on hols now for a couple of wks but ill work thro your steps + keep u posted on it.
Am hoping its pretty simple like u say, mines a 2018 and i had to swap a big square main fuse over from 2 connectors at the back on LHS, could it be those is one the fuel pump fuse too (thats now been swapped/taken out?)
And where do i get these fuses from?
And is ECU failure a common thing with hyosungs and where would i get one of them from?(Delphi)
TIA
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No problem, take your time.
DELPHi is Hyosung’s better ECU and Delphi is used on many bikes besides Hyosung. In the past they did use Mitsubishi Japan ECU’s but because Mitsubishi is not making them anymore, there was a rough period around 2009 to 2014 where they used a Korean made ECU called Daewoo, most failures come from that particular ECU.
Ring my trade partner (oldest hyo dealer in UK) and ask them for the ECU as they may still have it on their shelf , it’s a small shop so expect a busy line but they do help when you are connected to them hopefully. They are called Startright Motorcycles (if i can ‘t get the ECU or they can’t , then i doubt anyone else in the UK supply chain will have a brand new one , leaving us to resort to dark-corners of trusting mr. unknown to buy a 2nd hand ECU on places like ebay etc but let’s hope the ECU of yours is still intact before it needs replacing.
Relays = eBay (there is a few used ones by various sellers there i am sure) , if not i can supply new ones (japanese ones).
Fuses = Either the tray will use Mini-Blade or Blade Fuses = Halfords / Any Local car shop.
When you get back, show us some pictures of your electrics so i can quote you back on this:
Am hoping its pretty simple like u say, mines a 2018 and i had to swap a big square main fuse over from 2 connectors at the back on LHS, could it be those is one the fuel pump fuse too (thats now been swapped/taken out?)
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Hey cheers for all that info Marcel, i think youre a much appreciated massive godsend on here + elsewhere to a lot of people thanks for your assistance!!!
Ill keep u posted when i get back mines a 2018 gtr650 wi good ownership + condition up until v recently wi only 4.5k on it (tho i gather thats not necessarily a guarantee wi hyo s!!) so am hoping to overcome the hurdles + look forward to a good long term bike.
Ps. Am hoping its somethin simple like u say cos am assuming a new ecu or fuel pump arent cheap?
But if it comes down to it, just a quick one can a faulty fuel pump be fixed or rebuilt easily at all?
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Ps. Am hoping its somethin simple like u say cos am assuming a new ecu or fuel pump arent cheap?
But if it comes down to it, just a quick one can a faulty fuel pump be fixed or rebuilt easily at all?
If the pump is faulty , it won’t make a sound or it will be very muffled. A pump that’s working will make a loud whirring noise then it stops (primed and ready) by the time the dash sweeps up it’s RPM counter then back down to 0rpm.
OEM ECU will be costly yes , but knock-offs do exist on china’s Aliexpress, they are hit & miss.
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Incidentally id thought id update i tried your tips worked out where the fuses were swapped em + it started up pretty much straight away + ran + sounded nice – it looks like it mite be on its original regulator but didnt heat up too much got a pretty much consistent 13.5 volts ish at idle + revving it slightly does that sound about ok for now?
Cant see too many other probs with it at mo apart from the fact it hasnt been used in about a year but ill keep u posted on it.
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13.5v is the lowest acceptable limit , but caution to upgrade the regulator in the future. Don’t buy knock off aliexpress ones please, they WILL fry the bike!
Though , you can still get yourself another OEM one at your local dealer , if you want to keep it original , personally i use Shingden Japan regs (what you see on the shop) , then again , Shingden gets a LOT of fakes online too but that’s a whole other conversation as I am digressing sorry.
Bike seems OK from what you said, so go have fun 🙂
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Hiyah ive got my bike started now was just 2 fuses thanks for the tips didnt realise it initially it now starts + runs ok seemingly (ill keep an eye on the regulator voltages between 13.5 – 14.5v yeah?) ive not ridden it yet but just idling (ive put plenty of coolant in it now) ive noticed it heats up after a good while i know thats normal but eventually the temperature rises to near the top on the gauge + i cant hear any cooling fans kick in. I assume there is a cooling fan + i presume i should be able to hear it + before the temperature reaches the top should it?
Could this just be the relay or anything else thanks?
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Thermostat jammed probably , it should open and allow the radiator to get hot , there is a sensor in the bike called WTS (Water Temp Sensor) , sometimes that could also be the culprit.
Also , there is also another sensor called Fan Switch (That triggers the fan to turn on)
Fortunately, we have the service manuals in the forum which locate where they are and how to test them 🙂
Good to hear its alive and kicking!
13.5-14.5v yes to the regulator. If it gets hot just being there, i mean hot, replace it right away.
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