Bike Can Only Start If I Rev The Throttle – GT250R 2013
- This topic has 11 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 1 month ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Bike Model = : GT250R 2013
Hi, my bike is Hyosung GT250R year 2013. in malaysia it is named Naza Blade 250. my bike would not start when I press the start switch. it can only start if I press the start switch while throttling. and I have to continue throttling to keep the engine running. when I release the throttle the engine immediately stop. why is this happening? what is the issue? how do I solve this?
-
Sounds like your TPS needs checking (throttle position sensor) and your Idle Control Valve (idle Stepper Motor) = These help regulate idling on the bike.
Check engine clearances (are valve clearances too tight?) or check engine compression too.
This topic below could help, as it goes in more detail on the EFi system
Check the ECU for any error codes, see the manual below to get error codes or “how many times the Red FI” light will flash, see below:
[Download] GT GTR 125 250 R Comet Carby & EFi Service Manual & Hyosung Owners Books
-
-
-
Me a marvel at the same time 😹
What are the odds! 🙀
Stay warm sir , it’s getting icy these mornings again!
-
thanks for the replies. I will look into those after this. I forgot to mention that the FI light is also on. then I turn on off key 3 times, FI light blinking x10 x1 x1 x8, which I think the error code is 0118. I found out online that error code 0118 is related to WTS (I assume it is same as ETS= engine temperature sensor)
Is this also possible cause to my bike problem?
-
thanks for the replies. I will look into those after this. I forgot to mention that the FI light is also on. then I turn on off key 3 times, FI light blinking x10 x1 x1 x8, which I think the error code is 0118. I found out online that error code 0118 is related to WTS (I assume it is same as ETS= engine temperature sensor) Is this also possible cause to my bike problem?
If the ET is fautly , the ECU won’t know how to keep optimal fueling as the heat rises , so it has to sense it. However fortunately, you can always remove the ET , get 2 bowls. Cold water and 50% hot boiled water. Get a mercury thermometer in there to get glass readings
If the cold water says 7C degrees , put the sensor inside , get someone with a meter to help you. your hands hold the sensor down to the water but do not allow the “black part” to touch water as it will corrode the pins!
The 2nd person will get a meter out and switch to 100 ohms ===> sensor says 25.5ohms and manual says around 0-10c sensor should be about 30 ohms . Repeat the same process for the hot bowl. These numbers are not true , I am just guessing, the 250cc service manual will tell you the real numbers to look for.
This way you can verify if the sensor is working according to different temperature or if it is behaving faulty (skippy , jumping numbers etc….) , then yes replace the sensor.
It is also very important to make sure the tiny connector is clean and its plug, if there is a bit of rust / oxidization, it means ECU gets less optimal feedback or zero feedback as the current is not enough for the ECU to sense it.
Just like fuel tank, if the float is at the bottom it could say zero ohms ==> dash board says hey your fuel is empty , and a full tank will have a high float, the fuel sensor will report 250 ohms , dash will say you have full = bars of fuel.
Ohms are very important readings for the ECU for sensor like Temp, Fuel , Coils (Stator) , etc
-
thank you for the suggestion marcel. I will ask my brother who used to repair his own bikes to do it, since currently I’m working outstation.
other than that, are there any temporary fix to this problem? as example, if the ets fi error code blinking, then based on the result we tested ourselves, the ets sensor is faulty, can we just unplugged the white socket from the ets sensor (ets sensor remain in place), and run the bike as usual? if ecu don’t get input from ets sensor, will the ecu use default mode or any other mapping mode that will automatically turn on cold-start fuel enrichment or ignition? so that it can start easily. I don’t mind about fuel consumption, because it is for temporary fix only.
and what will happen if we unplugged the white socket from ets sensor and unconnect the battery terminal for several days? will it reset the ecu and trigger cold-start mode?
-
-
The ECU needs the temp sensor working, it helps it regulate how much fuel goes in there, if cylinder is hot , it tells ECU send more fuel to stop it going lean condition, and it controls your IAC (idle control valve stepper) when the bike is at idle too. It is not good to bypass it. Hyosung has used a small margin in their ECU map code , it means it can’t compensate too much or it shuts down to protect engine.
So i can’t advise a Bypass but , find in the service manual the highest resistance it takes and max temps (eg. 4,000 ohms at 100*C degrees ) and try to find a similar sensor that has the same readings at 25c, 50c , 75 , 100 etc, if it matches the service manual , then use it. Get your mechanic to match the thread on the engine , eg. OEM sensor takes 11mm threads and uses 1.5 pitch , then get a sensor that matches that.
Otherwise, hunt a damaged Hyosung in your country (crashed bike) , and get its ET sensor from them.
I have not yet found a replacement sensor that uses the tiny connector Hyosung uses. Most sensors for bikes and carbs use big plugs , so Hyosung made it difficult.
I would not cut your wires.
If you find a sensor with a different connector (as long as it matches OEM Ohms & Temps) ==> Get a spare “injector + ET” harness from any 250cc EFI hyosung in your country (GV250 / GT250)
GV650/GD250 use water sensors, so they will not work without making the job extra difficult retrofitting it. Some people tried to put a WTS (Water Temp Sensor) in to 250cc Oil Cooled ET port, they almost damaged the engine, so it is risky and almost not worth it.
-
Actually now that you mention it marcel I believe my IAT thats connected to the airbox, I assume thats what you mean by ET. I checked all the sensors from my rectifier because my rectifier for some reason didnt have ground, I jumped a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire of the rectifier using alligator clips no cuts and then I started to see 5v at all my sensors (MAP, TPS) but the IAT connected to the airbox read 0V it did have ground however. So I assume thats my issue then? And I tested the harness side, im assuming im supposed to be seeing 5V at the IAT, which would make sense because on cold startup itll run fine as soon as it starts to get hot even for a little it dies. Thanks for the replies marcel.
-
IAT = Air intake temperature sensor (for airbox) checks the air inside and reports back to ECU
ET = Engine Temp Sensor , it is on the Front Cylinder Header under the metal manifold.
Service manual would usually tell you where these things are and how to test them properly , the IAT would just need to know OMHS readings not voltage.
(Heat changes the resistance = so ECU would know if the resistance goes up , it means air is less dense as more heat reduces oxygen density)
So i would definitely follow the manual checking sensors 1 by 1 first. Some sensors only need ohms readings. If you applied voltage to them, it fries them and you will need to replace them again.
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.