♠️ M77
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We have stainless piston kits ready to go now . It’s at the shop page
On our ebay we have cleaned & ready caliper bodies (no pistons in it)
Why not use your own caliper and rebuild it with fresh pistons ?
I have had clients email me to make a custom harness and supply an aftermarket reg with a good stator unit, I had to send all 3 together to do away with the stock Hyosung 650 charging system even the stator was near the oem service limit, it was better to do it all & over with , but i understand it isn’t cheap either. I wouldn’t use cheapo units tbh (taiwanese made). If the Korea’s outsourced daewoo part was bad, i can’t see taiwanese folk doing better.
No i have not performed this task, I am mechanically minded but lack the confidence to pull the carbs apart and put them back together again and have hem perform their task like they should,
Is there anyone local that can take your carbs off and do cleaning to em in the methods i described above?
There is also a tutorial on this forum called Main Jet Tutorial , use that as a guide on how to remove the carbs off the bike and how to put them back on after a pro has done a cleaning session on them?
Youtube is filled with many tutorials on how to clean carbs in general bikes but i would caution to take everything very slowly due to the fact Hyosung parts can be tricky to get instantly in some regions god forbid anything gets missing
If we can get this main object out of the way, everything else will be easier.
Have you taken apart the carb bottom and top covers , take all parts out and dip in ultrasonic bath , or air compressor (OEM suggested) and also liquid carb cleaner to clean outside the skeleton body and inside if there wasnt an ultrasonic bath involved? It’s really crucial it gets a clean then retest it. Then we can further diagnose the next steps in the carb fueling.
Sorry Luke you will have to take them off again
You have to turn the carb’s so that the float’s are pointing upwards and the float is just resting on the needle valve, measure the height from the top edge of the body to the top float, the measurement should be 7mm.I have just checked the GV125 Service Manual. It says the float height should be 17mm. It’s currently at 7mm. Is this correct?
Koreans should be more clear.
17mm = when carb is sitting on bike manifolds.
7mm = upside down on the table. 🙂
I have finally found the time to strip and rebuild the carbs. Carb rebuild kit installed. Float height 7mm. Everything looks good. I have got an “Updated & Braided Air/Vacuum Intake Line Hose Kit” from Marcel. Only problem is the photos on the website are unclear as to where the new lines go. I have only got one connection to the fuel tap, the photos show two. I am guessing the other one is the fuel tank vacuum? Does one go to the two inlet manifolds? Help would be greatly appreciated Luke
Because its a GV125.
Both manifolds join with a T-Piece junction and they feed only the fuel pump.
The tap on GV125 doesnt use vacuum as its manual ON/OFF 🙂
hi, so my bike got 1 rear intake hole, 1 front intake hole with rear pump and vacuum fuel tap. how can i apply this method? would appreciate much if could help me.
Hey its OK.
Front intake pipe = fuel pump.
Rear intake pipe = vacuum tank tap.
Only GT250R & GT250
Any 125 owners should follow the original topic at the very top above ^^
Hope that helps.
I haven’t, but I will mines is a carb model tho, is it the same as the efi???
F1 light shouldn’t be there. The EFi dash is only for the EFi machines with an EFi ECU
So if you have a carby bike, then you have a CDI which has simpler electronics, it would require a Carby Dash. Tell us the part number on your CDI if you can and also if possible upload a picture of your carbs between the engine on this site.
Have you checked the forum for a 2008-2010 efi manual ? There is a page that shows you how to trick the ECU to display diagnostic code on the dash.
Instead of a switch, people sometimes put a paper clip across the 2 pins under the pillion seat , but caution when you do this though!
I wont lie though i do have a lower cc 2003 GV i just acquired to break for parts but i changed my mind. I really do like the old shape look compared to its recent ones.
If i was to get a GV650 id get the pre2004 ones. Not a trend killer copy but oem plastics are just much nicer than the likes of ST7!
Dont know many people in UK with the german trend killer look. I suppose thats a custom job for you 😉
morning does any one know if the gt/gv 125 upgrade alternator will fit the ga125 cruise 2 all the best chris
Sorry I didnt reply sooner. Mad week!
But sadly it isnt compatible or else I would verified this already in the shop description.
Hi on my hyosung gt125r 2007 I have a black widow full system exhaust and a k&n air filter with uprated pipes please could you tell me what size jets I need thank you
90 Front and 92.5 rear as mentioned in the the tutorial. Pilots stay the same. The mixtures don’t need messing with as Koreans already set them uniquely each carb.
Only after you followed the diagrams.
Then be *wise & careful* doing this. Have someone with you.
Bike on paddock stand. Start it. let it idle for 2mins. Drop to 1st gear. See if the rear wheel spins.
Did the wheel spin? If yes step 2 below
Rev up while in gear. If it cuts. Its your carb or whole fuel system again.
This is assuming clutch is OK (the whole basket inside the motor) plus cable adjusted properly.
I would double check the clutch bypass and the standbypass again.
The CDI isn’t sure thats why you cut when engaging 1st gear. I rarely encourage bypassing clutch switch. Peharps consider connecting it back ?
Though the sidestand switch can be bypassed yes as thats the most annoying thing on thebike tbh.
Also check neutral switch.
If i doubt i can upload a diagram which shows which points of the bike cut sparks off. (ignition interlock system)
How was the carb cleaned?
Small cleans won’t do much, there is so many holes inside. It requires an air compressor as per OEM, liquid cleaner is like stage. Even the permanent Jet called Starting Assist that’s inside. If in doubt, try get the carb to an ultrasonic cleaner guy.A new shape rear end bike (black engine) does take a LOT of cranks to start if anything is amiss (as much as an intake leak or loose connections near the manifolds and the airbox)
Get halfords easy start and spray the air filter many times.
You have 1 good chance here.
Twist the throttle up and down many many many many many many (many!) times while the bike is cranking over.
Put choke on.
Let it rev at 5k for 5mins before turning off choke.
if it dies, it probably cause the idle screw was not screwed in , adjust the idle screw and retry.
Also make sure battery is charged. It really matters.Yes bud. It moves fine when engine isn’t on and it’s in gear with clutch pulled in. When the engines on and the clutch is pulled in I have to rev it up to roughly 5k revs before I let the clutch out. The revs then dip down to 1k and the bike struggles to move. Anything below 5k and it dies
Thats the carb and tap + pump
Or sparking electrics.
Worst case clearances or compression.
