♠️ M77
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Is it possible to:
- Show us the plugs of the ECU
- has it actually got an EFi system (injectors on the engine) or Carbs ? (Originally before the owners started messing around with it)
- On the harness (i hope) there should be a part number sticker printed along it (eg. 1245XYZ-HG-1234 GT650S)
Pics of the ECU’s you have currently attached to that harness. (As it will have part numbers printed to it)
Welcome!
You aint nuts but you are brave enough to ignore any naysayers and come over to the dark side 😉
I’ll see your other thread and see what’s up.
Are you able to show us what your spark plugs look like ?
How are your lambda sensors looking ?
Lsstly, has the engine been overheating in anyway generally ? (Temp Bars on LCD screen always in the red?) – Try Motul Factory Line Coolant
Injectors were actually cleaned by the only mechanic in my city who was brave enough to touch Hyosung (and failed) so at least that’s off the list. I will get myself a contact cleaner, and look for a new stator tho finding a replacement part here is not easy. Thank you for advices. I will update the post when I make any progress. God bless you kind man.
Send us an email if you need it , as we sell stators on our shop.
What errors do you get ? as i can try to fix the image uploader. Thanks for the write up 😉
Something i would do myself haha.
Hey ,
ISCV issues can cause issues yes , is it possible to get a used one locally and be sure ?It sounds very stupid but follow me;
- Stator = Replace it. (The timing sensor could be playing havoc when it is hot , which is tripping the ECU)
- Regulator = Keep a very close eye on it (or upgrade it) (no cheap knock offs as the 650 will set cheap ones on fire quickly)
- Stator Plugs = Use contact cleaner and make sure harness is good.
- Plugs for ECU = Contacts cleaned and make sure it is firmly connected (without too much stress as pins are very small)
If it says “Fi (F Eye) ” not “F1 (F ONE)” ===> F Eye means injectors have problems or clean them hard …. and remove fuel pump (very carefully as it is very expensive) and make sure it is not clogged up ===== F Eye is fuel injection system , so commonly it is Injectors and Fuel Pumps
It could explain Jerky / Surging behavior on your bike cause by possibly “Stator” , Harness Plugs dirty , Clogged or Damaged Fuel Pump , Dirty or Bad Injectors
Well done!
I like success stories like theseMaybe list the parts you used and what you bought, so that anyone else from your region reading your topic can follow it should they ever stumble on it.
Can you quickly record the video so we can see what the dash does as soon as you turn the key on And if possible, connect the rear lights and headlights to see if they also turn on , including turn signals.
Then go to Youtube => Upload video => Set privacy to “UNLISTED” (so its not easily found on youtube) => Copy the Share Link and paste it here.
Or , even use Google Drive, DropBox, Instagram etc, whichever suits you and ill download the video. This is so i can visually see what’s going on.
I can see from your post there is power in the harness but why the “PumP” is still silent and the “dash is off” is a little odd. =
Does it matter if you switch relays around ?
Also , sounds stupid , but be extra sure these are intact and working:
- Neutral Light is on and the bike rolls freely.
- Side Stand switch is cut off and bypassed joined wires up (it is that annoying)
- Clutch Switch on the handlebar
- Corroded contacts on the KillSwitch Unit on the right handle bar
- Kill Switch is on the OFF setting (bike is ready to start)
I know that those ^ being off , can trip the fuel pump it won’t even bother cranking.
The bike will still turn on without the ECU , it just won’t do anything as the dash will say CHE Error (communication error with ECU) but i do hope ECU is OK though
It sounds silly but bare with me real quick. From the Speedo itself
Follow the red wire all the way to the fuse box. It might have a break somewhere?
Also using a meter do you get 12v at these locations
- GREEN IGNITION KEY PLUG
- 2pin FUSE BOX (15A) for bike (2 red wires going to it)
- FUSE BOX (30A) if it is there (pump and efi sensors or otherwise Korea uses a 4pin relay box)
The idea is to see if there is actual power power from battery reaching the harness.
Keep ECU disconnected to avoid accidently frying it
We will get to the 2pin plug you found soon (its not critical just yet)
Could be dash related or speed sensor or one of the ancilaries near the airbox or parking light inside headlight
beautiful ride. Enjoying the Spring season so far?
Hello,
Nice of you to get hands on with the bike, i encourage you to do more as most garages don’t even want to look at them despite being South Korean (not chinese! lol)
I would say you have stator and regulator issues as its not uncommon for any brand motorcycle to exhibit the symptoms you mentioned,.
Regulator = 100000% (Very common on Hyosung as Hyosung used cheap outsourced ones , they didn’t make em)
Alas….
This would in turn annoy the stators (aka. alternators)So if you don’t mind, please advise what year your bike is ? Or are you able to drain oil carefully , and remove the stator and take pictures to show us. Hyosung uses 3 different flywheels and stators in all of their GV125s even the new 2023 ones. Can’t mix and match on this one. Has to be exact or a total upgrade of the flywheel and stator as a 1 unit.
If you don’t mind me asking….
- Do you have heated grips ? (Can be taxing as the 125 stators don’t like it, but can offer you recommended ways to keep your hands warm)
- Do you have USB charging kits near the battery for your GPS or Phones ? (Check dodgy wires) could be sucking up the battery or taxing the bike when running
(is it Oxford USB charging or some unknown chinese brand?) - What battery do you have now ? (eg. YUASA YTX 9BS) (code names will be written on battery and the brand name)
- Are you handy with a multi meter ? (aka, pocket tester)
$1 ? – Would you risk it 🤐🤐🤐🤐 Lol. I like you idea of fortifying it. The yellow element inside might be OK for carbs but for EFi systems , it has to be extra fine material as injectors have very small nozzles to make a spray pattern inside throttle bodies. I would be afraid personally to risk that trail lol. 5 bars is a lot of pressure!
Here is a an example of the Toyota Car strainer ;
But , you will need to find a Toyota Strainer in your country with a hole diameter same as Hyosung and also , it should be similar design to Hyosung because the pump sits at the bottom of the tank, you want the strainer to also pick up fuel sitting at the bottom if fuel level is low in your tank.
Sam’s ebay link isn’t too bad , it is similar design to Hyosung (ie. 45 degree pipe with strainer facing down to suck fuel up in to the pump)
I have no idea what the black stuff is inside your fuel strainer is , it could be old particles collected after so many years , i have purchased fuel pumps for customers and i have never seen black things inside from the factory, it is always white fresh.
Lovely news! 😀 , summer is not here yet but we almost there if it stops rainning soon lol. Then here we go with more sunny rides.
Gives you time to check everything else before you start doing big rides like going to the sea or wales or something , check it all over and replace what needs must.
Even your tyres , but if the tyres passed MOT, then the tyres should be OK with enough tread left, if you ever get caught out in the rain!
Hey , don’t worry im sure we will get to the bottom of it, the more you describe the situation or keep updating us.
Dealer Mode = Did you follow the service manual exactly , if you ECU is “DELPHI” get the “D-Spec” or 2012 onwards manuals from this forum , if it is DAEWOO ECU < get 2009-2011)
If it is DELPHI = FI light will come on when you switch on bike, but it must go away after it is running and idling.
If it is DELPHI = Fi light will not go away even after 5 minutes idling , then remove battery , disconnect ECU carefully! – Wait overnight , then put everything together, trick the ECU on more time with dealer switch following the manual to get error code , and tell us what it is.
If it keeps saying CHE all the time, the manual says there is communication error between “Kill Switch handebar + ECU + Harness” , so make sure the harness is no damage and the connectors for the ECU are delicate , so check there is no broken pins.
Take picture of ECU and show us , if you are not sure which ECU you have.
Other parts for you to investigate:
- ISCV (Idle Speed Solenoid Valve Control)
- Airbox Air Sensor
- Engine Temperature Sensor
- Radiator Temperature Sensor
- Radiator ThermoStat (if it is funny, ECU will be confused if cylinder is hot or not because of mixed temperature coolant flowing inside cylinders) (It can make ECU panic or switch bike off automatically)
- Spark Plug HT Caps (Very common) (Replace if possible with NGK ones as they rarely failt)
- Ignition coils for Sparking = Test Primary & Secondary Resistance Ohms with meter and compare with manual
Stator can act funny, so keep this in mind , even if it works , when it gets hot, then problems start. So be ready to replace Stator , if it is needed but check the list above ^ first.
- Regulator = It must be 14v idling and 14.5v max at 5,000 rpm
if regulator is saying 12.x volts in any revs = replace it immediately with Shingden like this one
Do NOT use aliexpress parts , as EFi Hyosung bikes a very hungry for electric juice, chinese parts will fail quickly and burn expensive ECU.
Sometimes it can be very hard to find a good ECU
If everything is 100% checked and confirmed OK? = We may need to buy another ECU. But i hope not.
For videos, you can always upload them to youtube as “UNLISTED” , it means it won’t be found on youtube searches , but copy their share links and paste them on to the forum here no problem.
If you have gaskets for the cylinders , it would be a wise call to remove the cylinder heads so that you can see that all 8 valves are sitting flush or if there is too much carbobn deposits on the valve walls, stopping the valves from fully sitting down, after the cam lobe stops pressing them down to the pistons.
The clearance between a piston going up and a valve going down is small indeed , from the video it is hard to tell if the valve is actually hitting the piston or it could just be factory dentures so that valves don’t fully hit the piston.
Compression should be about 150 psi hot, did you test this when it was hot too ?
Ticking noises = funny you said tensioners changed , what about chain? or valve tappet shims? unless you have 1 shim basket that’s rattling under the cam lobes? (I hope not)
I have a feeling you will want to rebuild the 2nd backup motor fully , before taking apart the live one that’s still working inside your bike. Could i be wrong?
I don’t think Korea had options nowdays anymore to change pulley sizes for the GV
So to reduce the RPMs on rides , you will have to switch to chain kit. And use 1 tooth larger front sprocket , as rear sprocket for 650 is only 1 size (at least here in the UK supply chain)
But PBI America can probably make custom sprockets for you in sizes you desire.
I swear i saw this on Marketplace a while back and almost bought it lol
She’s a beauty!
What do you want to do with her now ? = Im sure at this point it’s just riding everyday with it so you can catch up!
Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
hi pal, them plugs look like they need to be connected to a cdi unit, ive just had to do the same on my 2008 gt650r, ive got a brand new cdi unit which i bought wrong that looks like it fits your 2 plug cables
im not 100% but it might be worth looking into if it can help
Those plugs hanging from his bike would be for relays unfortunately, your ECU says “GV650” , he has a GT650R
