โ ๏ธ M77
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Hi Iโm wondering what I can do about my broken pivot bearing on the link, i canโt find a replacement link for the life of me, thank you, and incase i got names wrong, itโs the bearing that the bottom of the rear shock bolts into
I personally am studying this item so i can stock them them before 2026 , Hyosung Korea stopped making them as they moved on to the newer bikes they are making (EFi 125 now)
If not, take your Y-Bone unit and go to a local bearing shop, they should be able to make up a one-off bearing kit to fit in there.
Hey , if possible, upload a video to youtube and mark it as “unlisted” (means no one will find it on youtube)
Simply just paste the link here:
Make sure the phone or camera is away from the exhaust or too much wind , so we can hear you revving up and letting it idle for a couple of seconds.
While you do that, go to the engine with your ear and a screwdriver, poke the Tensioner with the pointy end of the screwdriver , then your ear on the other end , see if both tensioners make the same noises ? Or if you hear any chain slapping.
Also do the noises change if you pull the clutch IN (pull cable) and clutch OUT (let go)
The idea is to pin point exact noises where are most loudest and it would be the area to work on.
Yes clearances both cylinders:
Intakes = 0.08 (margin 0.01 = 0.07 to 0.09 is OK)
Exhaust = 0.11 (margin 0.01 for any feeler gauge inaccuracies as above)It would be alarming if it was both 0.03 as no that’s way too tight of a clearance and would disappear when it’s hot. Just a bad day waiting to happen.
Do they sound like this ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAWKHBycWvQYes it’s a silly youtube video, but imagine that same ra-tat-tat-tat faster and more metalic higher pitched sounding, then i suspect either clearances or cam tensioner or chains , but if you’re wise enough to remember howw everything was installed, and record yourself ==> Remove the cams and check their bearings and cam-sprockets for any teeth damage.
Welcome Barry ๐
Hope to see the changes you make to it , you made a good choice compared to the Virago, although Virago is still a good classic.
100% change the oil yes as you will have oil that’s fuel damaged , so if it keeps circulating , you may kill some small critical parts as it runs and find the oil will vanish quickly too (burning away rapid)
Carbs =
Disconnect the fuel tank and get a bucket, if fuel is dripping out of the tap away from the bike, then replace that fuel tap , as it will flood your bike or jam your floats in the carb overnight. And you may find the engine hydrolocked.Confirm float height is OK inside the carb , take a look below and look for my reply inside that topic which confirms the float height of the carb
Clean the spark plugs , but they may be fouled anyway (lost their potency to spark properly next time) so grab some fresh CR8E plugs. (Have 4 of them, so the other next 2 will be your backup, saves you running back & forth to shops)
Once the bike has its own drained, replace the oil filter = 1000% don’t skip this part & leave the spark plugs out, let the engine evaporate away but make sure the area where the bike is safe to do so as fuel vapors will be in the air incase a friend or relative in your garage decides to light a cigar next to the bike! ๐ฅ๐ฌ
Cranking too much time would mean the carbs send fuel to the pistons but the engine needs to spark the fuel, so it can make sure as to why the engine got flooded, happens in cars too.
Test your coils and stator , use the topic below (Ignore that it says GT125R , it shares the same coils as its GT250R sister)
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Keep us posted & good luck . Hope my replies made sense
Howdy!
Looks like you got a nice land rocket , we hope to see its revival on the forum too ๐
Judging by your pictures:
1. The black ones going to the 3-way unit called the Fuel Pump = It will need some clamps / jubilee clips just to avoid fuel leaks, as hoses may swell a little bit under heat.I will annotate each image you posted below:
2x Black Holes under the tank == Get a 1 meter hose and put it there , this hose goes to the rear tyre , suspension linkage= This is “overflow / breather” , it looks missing. And if you overspill or bike falls (God forbid, that overflow hose could drain the fuel away to the rear tyre , instead of it dripping all over a hot engine and if the coils were arc’ing , that’s an explosion waiting to happen.
Fuel Tap = Small Nipple is for the vacuum and the big port is for fuel towards the fuel filter yes. Make sure to clamp/jubilee clip that port too.
Yes you’re correct that goes to the tank’s fuel tap.
Yes those thin lines are basically vacuum feeds coming from the rubber intake neck boots at the engine cylinders where carbs swallow themselves into.
Also you will 100% need a new fuel filter there, so replace it while it’s apart:
Look at the hole again, if its blanked by the factory, then no need to worry about it. Otherwise it is either Vacuum Feed or “Overflow to the Ground/Road”
This cut hose that looks pointy at the end is mostly likely the “over-flow to the road” , if bike falls on its side or the floats get jammed open, extra fuel will gushing out to the road to save pistons being flooded. Also acts as breather when needed.
Arrow โฌ๏ธ Left black hose , this is “incoming filtered fuel” (so the tank and fuel filter send fuel down this hose as Entry to the pump)
Grey Spring Coil Pipe = > “๐ ฟ๏ธ” mark on the vacuum pump means “pulse” , aka vacuum as the pump works in a pulsating fashion. So make sure that spring coiled hose is getting vacuum from the engine’s rubber intake neck boots or make anoter T-junction to join the rest of the vacuum lines on the bike.
Arrow โก๏ธ == right black hose ==> Fuel pumped out towards the carb. This is the fuel that’s leaving the pump going to the carbs.
The pump has also 2 more arrows facing down to the road, ignore them as they have been factory blanked off.
Hope this helps!
take some time to think about it , hunt down a spare engine for a quicker swap ? , you will still get more and quicker for a complete running bike. Plus you gt to learn a lot, so it’s not all waste as your next bike will be an easier fix as you learned what to do and what to look so next seller doesn’t try to sell you a lemon again.
Keep it as a slow rebuild , by Spring time , you will have a totally mint bike that can fetch ยฃ1.5+ K sold, running, fresh MOT. Parts will go but you will have half a bike that’s sitting there as your hardest things to shift are wheels, frame, forks etc, as they are common to find them now
1 brown valve in he picture looks like it has been through some hell judging by the edges of it.
A valve head change or valves alone + seals could be a safe call to change up. The valves are very hard to press down with your fingers , so amazon a cheap tool that allows you to compress or extract valves so you can see the full state of them and the seals (compression loss? or tiny bit of oil burning possible)
Pistons & The Cylinders, you would end up needing to remove the pistons and the cylinder walls now to judge their condition with your eyes
, if they all look good, grab a spare piston and use its rings to see if compression improves.
Remove the piston slowly! = So you can see which position each ring was, they have a notch on them and mark them. So next time you fit a piston, you can remember how they were.
Like this one:
The wires could be rotting further along the harness of the “stand switch” ?
And cobra is correct to mention the Tip-Over Sensor (Roll-Over sensor) , it can get funny sometimes , I would NOT bypass it but check on your country’s eBay page if you have to replace it but hopefully not.
Twin Pipes are the best look for the GV to be fair ๐ , i would have thought the GV was more comfy than the sport-bike position ?
Closed due to duplicate topic.
Replied on on your other one ๐
Warm engine is good for testing the cylinder health , cold testing is best when checking the “oil pressure” so you can record the “cold value” and “hot value” as the oil gets thinner and circulated.
Yes fake NGKS exist but sadly i’ve tried other brands , and NGK wins every time especially with their own NGK caps. Just that the “IX” in particular is more overhyped and quite an annoying plug.
I’ve got the same LASER plugs in one of my bikes for 2 years and has not missed a beat, LASER is also OEM to some Suzuki bikes. So go to a Suzuki dealer and ask for a CR8E LASER plug. Suzuki using LASER plugs is enough confidence for me to keep using it. It’s usually NGK’s flagship plug for bikes (also most expensive for good reason)
Here is more info on NGK’s official site in regards to spotting fake plugs:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/if not , go to a BMW dealer and ask for a BOSCH plug to replace your CR8E , as BOSCH is typically an OEM plug to some BMW bikes & BMW cars
Hi everybody.
17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001)
The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
Iโm still getting a 0562 code and when I look it up it says low system voltage Iโve checked all connections and everythingโs okay so Iโm also thinking somes wrong with the charging system
Regulator and Stator ?
Try to test the stator unit using this topic (ignore that it says 125cc, it’s the same principle) and tell us the stator values?Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Battery = Sometimes it helps to disconnect the lights and try again, and have a meter on the battery, if its discharging too fast (the moment you turn the key on), the battery is toast or not enough CCA to crank it ? (battery may be too smaller than OEM size)
You would need to get a whole assembly again and keep the spare pump itself. Get even a cheapo one from your local US bike wreckers and swap over the pumps in to the housing ๐
There has never been a time a housing got sold on its own.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum! Nice to see the Hyosung is getting popular in the Sunny South!
I would say , open the clutch cover and see if there is anything broken ?
if intake clearances are 0.10mm to 0.20mm and exhaust is 0.20 to 0.30mm = then valves should be OK?
Would you be able to tell if valves are leaking oil through their seals or did it smoke at any point ?
Take a look at this thread as it’s similar to yours in regards to rebuilds
Valve clearance, camshaft, camshaft tensioner โ a problem or a serious fault?
Come back to your topic and let us know
125 PSI on both cylinders when its hot, did you chuck a tiny bit of oil in there (just a little) = Did it go up or down ? (piston rings or valve seals?)
Though… if re-installing pistons back in , it is possible the rings moved out of fashion
Normally rings are staggered like this:
======____=====
==____=====
=========___===The _dips__ you see are the gaps in the rings, if they all line up exactly , that can cause further issues. I can’t remember the exact format off my head (have to read the manuals all over again) but check the 125 manual GV125 from this forum or even manualsLIB website for the cartoon drawings of the pistons to see how the rings get lined up. I had to do this last time as the old engine was eating oil (a stupid Yamaha it was!) , thankfully it hasn’t been too hard to do on a Hyosung bike. Just can’t mess with the vtwin-timings!!!!
Those would be just regular threaded little studs that go in to the cylinder heads (at the sides) , then 2/3 nuts just secures then down . You could slice (dremel+cutting disc) them off but be ready to buy new short threaded m6 studs , they are same as the oil filter cover if you get what i mean.
Either way , slide around the cylinders where gaskets are and pry upwards bit by bit , i am assuming the front tyre really chucked a lot of mud & salt at it, and you have a classic case “weather seizure” followed by heat of the engine , causing them to warp and get stuck in there. Go easy though as the studs are steel but cylinders are aluminium-cast metal mix !
Don’t give up yet if you got this far , if it runs in the end you will have more of a sentimental feeling over her than the new bike (possibly!)
Remove the 4x long bolts if not done already , you can’t get any rust in there UNLESS engine was consuming water somehow ? or recovered the bike from a flood damage or something , if it was really badly rust, the 4x long bolts would have snapped trying to undo them inside the engine.
So try a strong piece of a flat head, and pry it upward.
We could possibly have 2 Collar Spacers under the cylinder heads being stuck to the barrel and the crank casing , they look like this:
(Example image from a similar vtwin bike)
They go through the long bolts actually.
