♠️ M77
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Can you be able to post pictures now please (I have fixed the image uploader on the site)
So we can see the damage if possible and I would like to also find out myself if i can still get them but i really hope the cables are OK and it’s just something that went loose , ie. a nut or some kind of retainer/stopper near the throttle body.
But let us know.
If it is an emergency , go to Amazon right now & Select PRIME Next Day, get a “throttle repair” kit (universal type) , only if the cables have actually snapped. You can still keep the black lining , just replace the steel wire inside that’s all.
I’ll try one of your honda replacements if you need me to test. What’s the best way of getting payment to you?
Yes, but 2 of them already are gone, so we just have to order another one. It’s a gamble on our end too , but hey sometimes trial & error makes the shop trusted by other garages too.
Can’t keep depending on official importers anymore, there is hundreds of GVs on UK roads as i said before and no one wants to wait weeks for local dealer to replace a part for them.contact us here to discuss any orders privately:
That’s a gamble , as Hyosung gets its switches made by company called LAFANSAN (“LS”logos on your switch) – LS also make some of Hyosung’s electrics like stators & flywheels , CDI units for carb model since 2012 (they mould the switches to fit your GV-S Clutch Mounts and Brake Mounts) , our own testing is from a Honda this time but currently will try with another rider also before going public and stocking it.
Your lexxy switch could be a gamble but maybe a temp fix to keep you going. keep us posted and stay safe on the ice!
OEM size is 87.5 & 90
So your upgrade is 90 & 92.5 = no need to use “95” . Leave it there.
95 is for 250cc pistons, otherwise its too much fuel for aa 125cc, so your plugs will be too rich.
Can order one for you but likely will mean you get to try a new aftermarket version we are looking to stock-up soon, so we don’t always depend on UK dealers as they can’t even keep up, there is hundreds of GVs on the road . Just send us an email.
I have replaced it a few times before and it was never an issue, i just used a deep socket (i think 13mm or 14mm i can’t remember hex size off my head now) and carefully turned left , because i know the front head gets all kinds of dirt in the rain sometimes turns things to rust like the intake pipe bolts.
Remove the airbox and remove the intake pipes (carefully) (Replace the O-Rings!)
Use a tiny drill , and drill it out (counterclockwise) on a slow rotation.
Because deep there is an oil chamber, so i am afraid to caution you to becareful, if particles fall inside or broken parts = I would remove the engine head & re-install it.
If you start a bike with particles inside the oil flow chambers (where your sensor is going) , it will travel and block smaller jets inside the engine , there is a few high & low pressure jets inside the engine that spray oil everywhere lubricate the motor.
So whatever you do , i would do it with extreme caution – stupid thing is made of brass , if it was steel , we could weld a strong bolt to it. then turn left to loosen it out of the engine.
Try 0.5v as a base and up to 4.8V is OK , let it warm up for a bit so the ECU learns the new setting , it will talk to your idle speed controller to set a stable idle.
Hyosung makes a lot of manuals but sometimes don’t always include every little detail (some manuals have more details than others), but the 650cc manual isn’t too far off (Both 650 and 250cc used DAEWOO ECU’s on the early models but obviously a 650cc ecu won’t work on yours)
I never paid attention to the OEM values as if a TPS went, I just replaced it and used a good judgement and set it.
Stator likely the culprit? If its not recognized by the ECU, the sparks won’t happen and also the ECU primes the pump directly.
Also look at your clutch switch (don’t bypass it as fake neutrals can happen) , neutral sensor ? , Side Stand Switch (bypassing it is OK as it is a very annoying object) = These would stop the ECU priming the pump or sending sparks.
If not, you will have to strip the bike down and carefully go through the entire harness making sure there is no dead circuits from one end to the other end of each wire.
Contact Cleaner helps keep the connectors in good condition with air compresor jets on the wire connectors.
ECU = Just blow air and don’t put any liquids on it.
Hopefully we get somewhere?
Also check your RO-SENSOR (Tip Over Sensor) = If bike can’t sense it or thinks you fell down, it will cut sparks off.
This PDF by another member helps go in more detail also:
While the harness is apart , get a meter and use the service manual on this forum to test every sensor connected to the bike (ie. if something says 0 ohms where the manual wants 20 ohms, that object is either faulty or connectors are bad/too oxidized)
Kill Switch Plug (where you press start) is also crucial, make sure that right handle bar switch cluster is fully cleaned out including the contacts inside the switch rockers and the actual black plug under the airbox
It is not possible, unless you have a speed sensor connected to something that makes it spin for days and days (not a good idea) , the dash will think you’re riding the whole globe so mileage for that will rack up.
If not, you can get identical dash that has a higher mileage or close to it then tell your MOT guy before he logs it on the next MOT. Take pictures as evidence (before & after) , then if the bike ever gets sold, tell the owner the true mileage vs what the dash says as you accumulate further miles.
Hey Robert!
Welcome and yes the drain plug vs the gearbox plug. I wish the gearbox plug had a warning engraved under the casing to say “do not open this unless rebuilding gearbox!” but we would still miss it if the underside is very mucky!
Did you also test the rest of your electronics to make sure they are all up to date ? See the topic below:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says GT125 , that’s its younger carb based sister but principle is the same.
Make a new topic with your findings ie…. “Electric tests on a GV250 EFi” , and we shall comment to see if you’re in good hands. There is also a service manual in this forum too for the EFi Gv250 too. It goes in to much more detail on how to test various sensors , so you’re caught out on a long trip , because a previous owner was neglectful towards it.
It’s a lot! – but take your time, do it bit by bit.
Forgive me if you can’t post pictures , I am fighting some bugs under the hood until you see a nice yellow-green button that says “Add Media / Upload Pictures” , i don’t want the site to be too technical to browse around. So i will be simplifying a lot of it & consolidating the forum , so its more unified.
Stay safe out there and 76 is a nice age , keep riding sir and stay warm this winter!
If i may ? Don’t use or fit heated grips , rubbish stuff… and very taxing on the stators and regulators. (If you replace a regulator, replace the stator unless the stator proves to be in good spec on your multi meter readings! – very crucial) — Go on Google and look for “KIES HEATED APPAREL” very good brand, they have heated gloves, vest , shoes , etc …. and they use their own power-brick which goes in your pocket. You can walk around feeling nice and warm , and charge the power brick at home after your trip.
Now that leaves the bike’s stator (already at max capacity) to feed the regulator and various & various(!) sensors scattered under the hood.
Regards
😉
14 down from 16 would throw timings off yes and likely as Simon was saying that you may have hit something inside the engine, as there is a very small margin between the piston and the valves.
Like he also said, put some petrol or some liquid through the valves and see if they leak through without you pressing them down, it could be better than just visually looking at them. I would mention a likely hood of needing to replace the valve seals (if i didn’t say it before)
Rebuilding the front engine is a good idea to put fresh life in to the bike again.
As the engine cranks , the ECU should be enriching the injectors so it fires up quickly then the ISCV takes over to idle the machine.
So when turning on the key does the fuel pump prime (any noises?) and if you cranked , does it spark ?
if you’re sure the harness is spotless , we could check the Clutch Switch , Neutral Switch and Stand Switch, these definitely also cut the injector and sparks off.
If not, keep an eye out for a backup ECU you could get
Go for a small ride and come back, let it cool down quickly , report back on how it ran on the road ? And then remove your plugs , check again.
NGK is a safe call for caps. And test the resistance of coils and report back the figures.
Check the manual and test your Lambda Sensor (O2 sensor) in the exhaust pipe too. These report back burnt (or unburnt) mixture back to the ECU. Sometimes they just crap out needing a replacement.
Although, the only way to be sure about any part is to use the manual and actually write down the figures reported , then you know if a cerrtain part needs replacing. It could take 1 random sensor or part to throw whole bike out of balance.
Thermostat jammed probably , it should open and allow the radiator to get hot , there is a sensor in the bike called WTS (Water Temp Sensor) , sometimes that could also be the culprit.
Also , there is also another sensor called Fan Switch (That triggers the fan to turn on)
Fortunately, we have the service manuals in the forum which locate where they are and how to test them 🙂
Good to hear its alive and kicking!
13.5-14.5v yes to the regulator. If it gets hot just being there, i mean hot, replace it right away.
Could be pistons/piston rings or valve seats themselves as long as you are certain the valves are 100% straight.
Put a new metal gasket again just incase. (Compression loss due to head-gasket failure can happen , just like cars)
The site’s image uploader seems to have bugs i am sorting soon, so in the interim, use this website to upload images below:
https://postimg.ccThen just copy & paste forum links that start with
"[ I M G ...........]", this forum will translate them in to live images.Sorry for the hopping around , I will fix the site’s uploader.
I will fix it again don’t worry, bugs seem to crawl back again!
Least the postimage site works totally fine (not blocked by the UK yet & I hope not – stupid laws!)
The headlight looks good on your bike, i see the angel eyes ring lights are getting trendy these days 🙂
No IAT on the GV250 is on the airbox and ET on the physical front engine cylinder.
IAT = Ohms text.
ET= Ohms test.Don’t put IAT in water.
If there is continued issues with the ECU, there is a new upgrade system below: (I sell the fuel pump separate if needed) , i “may” still have older sensors like ET etc… I can always dig them out and see and included them in the bundle.
I have fuel pipes for the GV , eBay does not allow me to export them. So best to do the deal via email instead , or otherwise look for Delphi systems at your local wreckers , now you bike has a 2018 overhaul and yes I also sell the 2018 stator & regulator as they are entirely different now.
Harness & ECU = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257182139648
2018 plugs for injectors & ET sensor etc = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257148903272
Fuel pump wire = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256602588520
Fuel Pump (Delphi ECU uses Blue Pump and has different pessure rating) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257147094683
Main fuel hose = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257155594594
Injectors = Hoses are OK , but i would get braided ones (can be supplied if needed) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257150820566
IAT Sensor (untested) = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257147129279
ET Sensor (untested but i am suspicious it works) = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257134793489 (for future spare!)
TPS = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257150787245
MAF = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257150806030
IAC = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257152400938
Stator/Reg combo = Needed for 2018 harness! = https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257148968953
There is a few variations of 300S as Hyosung is updating the look of the GV300S faster than we can keep up, there is now 300-SS , 300SA , 300R , i don’t think they will continue to make the early S model for much longer as they progressively move on from it.
2018-2021 (pre-facelift era) would be your safe bet for looks wise (plastics) if hyosung changes plastics, the frames would get updated with new mounting points which makes it harder to fit on to older models without modifications etc.
300S is more wide spread in asia that’s why and EU/UK is a larger 125 market, there are some german shops doing things like backrests, saddle mounts, even SHAD EU does nice hard tail boxes for them.
Exhausts = Look below:
What other parts need attention on the GD250 ? We could elaborate what ever the manual isn’t making sense of.
Manual is OK for most parts as GD/GDR share the same parts under the plastics.
GD250N / GD250R = Plastics and extra fairings and race-look.
Tank is the same and so is the pump, however they are expensive to replace and easy to break the pump connector, so lift very very slowly and unclip the high pressure hose carefully and then tank can be put away to the side , keep in mind there is likely the ECU attached to the tank or regulator. Hyosung has moved parts around the GD250 & GD250R frame under the tank to try cool down either the ECU or Regulator.
I had a different bike in the past that had its ECU mounted under the tank (on the tank itself) and i almost yanked it off! – I learned to be slow in everything now.
Thanks mate Not after more power and also not expecting any, just like the look of it 😉 Barry
Further studies and testing on my part will be conducted when I can, as i would like to make some mods for those newer models too.
Power on a 125 is something i will work on! – While the EBC clutch upgrade is good (on the shop) better than stock, I will be trying a carbon plate (yes real carbon from EBC UK) , only 1 rider said it is a little improved over EBC HD , he is still testing…
Looks = Beauty is of the beholder haha. (my eyes prefer the older S look as i loved the older GV models, so a bobber isn’t too bad) , new model USD forks make me worried about chrome rot or stone attacks from road , RWU forks are easier to maintain than USD forks.
