♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Mixture is OK = Center white cone is brown. At full throttle.
Idling rich or burning oil ? = The circle ring at the base of the plug = front engine.
C-shape tip (half moon tip) , coils seem to spark OK. = Nice brown shade.
Threads look black and wet = Burning oil? or signs of engine overheating?
Also get rid of the ix plugs as they don’t really like them but use either basic CR8E or NGK LASER only.
Then show me again ? You want maybe only 4-5 lines of threads dark (normally) but if all the threads towards you finger are all black, either it’s overheating or eating a little bit of oil each time ? unless the fuel is bad ?
Check your oil level and rev it fast in neutral to see if it “puffs out” some smoke ? (VALVE SEALS or VALVES not seating)
or will it smoke if you hold it at 4k revs for a few seconds ? (piston rings , cylinder wall scratched?)
Have you gone out with it yet ?
From basically 5 second clips, i can’t tell much as i am hearing the exhaust more than the engine itself, so i will take a shot in the dark to say “it seems OK?” – Have a ride with it first and feel its behavior.
Also if you can feel heavy thumping on the cylinder heads (like someone is banging the door and you can feel it) , you will sense if the crank and pistons are OK ,but use your judgement and do it when its warming up so you don’t burn your hands when it’s too hot to touch.
Turns out the injector opens when not on the bike everything’s working so I’m looking at getting an injector for it as I believe it’s a solenoid issue with the injector itself got the correct battery ecm has been tested and confirmed working properly. Just got to find an injector for a decent price
It was my suspect too
Hmmm, if the bottom 2 nuts are removed at the side of the fins , then carefully pull the whole thing upwards , otherwise i can only assume a piston is somewhat jammed there.
Get a butter knife , and carefully bit by bit => lift the sides of the cylinder gasket incase you’re fighting a gasket that’s really sticking the cylinder down.
Hmmm, if that nut is running loose, weld it shut there. As i don’t think you need to worry about it UNLESS the “rod” snaps inside where it slides the silver caliper in and out (hence floating caliper)
Yeah those jets are overkill yikes. Even a 250cc is perfect on 95 to 97.5 max , otherwise extra jetting is just making the bike too rich , which isn’t good long term either.
Does it ride well ? And does the sound change as revs go up or down ? Does the sound change if the clutch is pulled in?
If unsure, upload a video to youtube –> set it as “unlisted” , it means no one on youtube will search for it.
Copy the share link and post it here, if helps
Got a picture please of those side nuts under the fins ?
Personally no , but you can get a “thread pitch” tool and also measure diameter of the shaft , that should give you a rough thread size. You can also use the nut spanner size to have an idea.
Eg. 13mm spanner on a bolt means it should be M8 ID x 1.25mm pitch (generally)
I can’t confirm if TE uses reverse threads on the flywheel side as i never owned one, i do know though the right side of the crank either the clutch or oil pump pulleys are reverse nuts.
Yeah I was looking and searched it up and it says it pushes 200lph at 43 psi and oem does I believe 60 to 80 and was wondering if it could be over pressuring the system
While i don’t have the exact figures as I don’t use Kemso pumps , i believe the OEM is around 3.5 bar for the GD series but don’t quote me on that as it has been a while since i did any pressure tests on pumps , i usually just replace them now to save time and effort these days.
I have also noticed that the previous had been messing with the left handle switch assembly (which controls the highs beams, indicators etc) and it hasn’t been properly closed when screwed back on as there is a gap so could it mean that water getting into the switch assembly could be cause the issue e.g. corroding contacts in the switch being pulled when handle bars are turned and have now broke?
Most likely , best to take it apart and use a meter to test the contacts and the end of the plug to check each pin has continuity etc , this will confirm if the switch is totally dead or some contact inside needs sorting or a broken wire inside the switch cable
Not used KEMSOs before, i generally replace the whole OEM thing. Some people have been fine with it as long as it does its job.
The ECU is what will run the pump itself. Unless the pump is jammed internally, it would be wise to just replace it as it won’t be a good idea to do any kind of hacking around to it, it is harder to get a fresh ECU than it is a pump.
I know you said it’s a new pump , if it is “brand new” , then no need to replace it again and issue is likely ECU or other electronics that have prevented the ECU turning on the fuel pump
If the new pump is installed & the FI error is still there, then the ECU either has a fault inside it or the harness has issues (the ECU can’t read some of the sensors on the bike)
Have a look at this too, it’s a rare book but goes in to some extra details about the EFi system :
To get error codes from the ECU, download the service manual on this forum,it will tell you how to do it.
It may be silly to say this but these stop pumps priming :
– Side stand switch (bypass it and join their wires) => If joined already , the wires may have rotted and the ECU can’t sense the bypass anymore.
– Clutch Switch (not worth bypassing, but easy to replace)
– neutral switch (ECU checks it) (can’t bypass it)Welcome to the site! my bikes may be red but i always have a soft sport for clean looking black bikes.
Is it summer time yet over there? We here in the north about to approach a depressing cold season called Winter, so i won’t be riding much unless the roads are dry and the sun is out , if you rode on our UK roads in winter you will understand why I am fair weather haha. Maybe i am just getting too old!
Check the plug connector has not been damaged by water behind the headlight shell?
Check the Left handlebar switch connector under the tank is also not water damaged ? (or a wire broke inside being pulled when you turned right)
Lastly, the lights are controlled by a relay , the relay is 4pins. However , next to the battery SOME (not all) GV125-S have a small black box with loads of fuses , look for the one that says “headlight” and check it (don’t replace with a bigger fuse or you will fry the harness)
Relay = It is needed for every GV125, it’s always there. (It clicks confirming its sending power to the lights) , it will be in a row of other relays controlling the pump, ecu, injectors etc…. It’s not always easy to tell which is which. If in doubt , disconnect one relay ==> if the pump stops ==> put a sticker there saying its a “pump relay” etc.
Also check for water invasions under the relay rack
Also for headlights, if relay gets power = It will always make a “click” sound, if it clicks , then your headlights should turn on.
Usually the handlebar switches control that relay too.Circuit is
“Headlight => Left Switch Gear (Hi vs Low Beam) or “Flash Yellow Button” ==> Right Switch (Turn headlight on or OFF , also RPM counter unless RPM counter is always in “on” mode) ===> Relay clicks and sends power to the headlights. => If previous owner put 100w bulbs => It will fry the harness and everything else and possibly regulator and stator but i hope it is 55w on both bulbsAlso very old bulbs are annoying to the battery and bike won’t start (if bulb is too old, resistances is too high or wire gets very hot) – I found out the hard way last week when a wire burnt my hand for the low beam, the bulb was a cheap knock off that was in the bulb, it worked so i didn’t think much until i fought through 4 batteries to find out the bulb has been eating up too much energy. I learned my lesson to stick with premium brands like OSRAM or Philips if i ever buy another 2nd hand bike haha.
check there is 12v at the brake switches too, if yes ==> check the wires at the bulb socket at the tail light.
Brake light will always turn on, otherwise the bulb is dead. The brake light does not need a relay or front handlebar switch gears, only brake switches turn them on. (Later EFi models have relays for brakes) but you have an older model with less electrics , so it should be easier to diagnose.
Also remove the bulbs in the RPM side , and check they are not blown ?
Well done, i knew something about the side stand area was suspicious. Immediate cuts after 1st gear, the bike panics and thinks you want to ride with the stand down!
Which reminds me, check your stand is up before riding. Many years ago , i saw my friend crash after turning left because his side stand was down!
Can you show me the spark plugs ? = Get new CR8E , and try to go for a ride, come back, let it cool down, show me the colours of your spark plugs , i can tell you if the mixture is good or not.
Also take picture of the side-ways of the spark plug , so we can see how many threads are dark etc. I have a keen eye on these things.
i pulled the injector off and used a nine volt battery to test it while priming the system and it worked so im starting to think either my battery has dead cells and its not giving enough power to the injectors or its the negative wire and possible a break or short in the circuit leading to the ecm. when i first bought the bike i was told it needed a new battery and fuel pump since then i have replaced the fuel but haven’t been able to buy a new battery yet.
Get a new injector too, just to cover your bases but dig around in your country for a wrecked GD250, so you have a full donor bike of future parts too and it will have a spare harness + ecu. It will help a lot. I understand the GD series is not as widespread as the GTR , as beautiful as that bike is , it’s a shame it was a limited production like the St7 was. However, don’t give up on it. When it runs, take care of it and it will always be there 🙂
Hey,
If there is power to the dash itself, this assume the harness’s orange and red wires are feeding power to it.Did at any point the bike had a faulty reg (cooks up dashboards) due to overcharging etc or was there any signs of damage to it that caused water to invade its cracks then fry the circuits
Also, does the “RPM” (Just the RPM side) light up at all? (There is bulbs under the RPM side, they don’t care of the LCD glass is on or not.) the use primarily an orange live wire. In some cases it stays OFF , until you go to the killswitch => turn on the “lights” (headlights) , the RPM counter will also turn on as it assumes you’re in night-riding mode. On later bikes, it’s always ON.
Other Lights = Do you mean headlights ? => Check your relay isn’t burst and the 4-pin relay is getting power to the socket. Also both LEFT & RIGHT switch-gears on your handlebars also control your headlights.
Rear Lights = ? You have not mentioned if they turn on? If the brake light is even on when pressing brakes ? Will wait for your feedback here.
