♠️ M77
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Hey welcome!
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner, I have just read this so , my best replies are already found in these below
(GV125 / GT125 / GT125R = are the same engine anyway)#1. topic link 1
#2. Topic link 2
#3. topic link 3
If the infomation on the links above did not help, let us know exactly what steps were taken & if the bike made any improvements at all?
I hope this is just a quick fix for you.
Hey dude!👍🏽
You can always get this one which is used by many of us in UK
https://hyoriders.club/shop/
Then ill simply get supplier to send a 650 version.If not, depending on your regrec plug type (some reg recs have split plugs.)
Anyways
You may also consider
Electrosport for 650 and i believe electrosport still make stators for the hyosung also.Be a good idea to browse the TECH section of this website for 650 manuals. Test your stator with a meter to make sure its operating withing spec
In US i believe there is a supplier that stocks shingden regulators but some may need some wire mods to mix with hyo wires (if they dont already have a conversion kit)
Yes R1 seems common for 650 but some reg recs may be china copies so lifespan is wild on those.
Hope this info helps!
I tried to test this way earlier to day.. but could only get readings on some of the terminals, and the numbers we’re kinda random..
Try again and use the chart for each pin and save readings on paper then compare.
It also says in chart ^:sometimes its hard to detect a failed unit if other parts may be broken inside.
Send me an email – I will try to hunt a CDI locally for you , i know 1 man who is splitting up his bike.
Hope he still has it!
To test CDI, follow these pictures below:
(SAVE PICS to PC or Phone and zoom in)
——————————–
Good luck!
So lower fairings (2x big side panels) & rear plastics (x2)
What about the “center V Piece” under oil cooler?
I can get these made locally in staineless. Just send me an email as it would be a custom order.
Hey,
Welcome to the new forum! After reading through, i’ll say this ” bike life doesn’t leave you, once you’re a biker 😉 ”
Anyways, speaking of Hyosungs, you may have missed out on 2 great meets which happend in Matlock & the Midlands this 2018 summer , it would have been nice to meet you and other guys would too.
This winter 2018, keep her nice and looked after , 2019 we’re all of to Didcot (South UK) as the next set of meet & rides.
You can find more info on the forum’s “Rides” section. Or RSVP yourself , on the facebook group if you like:
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/A lot of using this new forum came from facebook, as there was no forum for UK! – So speaking of forums, you can browse a little and you will get yourself an owners manual and service books.
So if you’re looking to do certain tasks on the bike or know more info on something, the service manuals are all uploaded on this site.
Ride safe this weekend!
Hey,
- Look at the blue arrows. 1 tab is at the top and 1 tab is under the bike (under the clutch-cover should i say!)
- Put a little screwdriver “behind” the tabs, and then tap them so that the clutch cover can wedge / pop off!
- Sometimes the “paper” gasket sticks hard, so the tabs help us use a mallet / rubber hammer etc… to tap the cover out of the bike.
Hope this info helps… Let me know!
Hey!
Welcome to the site, you made the right choice with the 650 twin. We need more of that presence in the UK.
If not already, you can also find us at the facebook group too where 650 owners sometimes post images. There is a few!
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/We had 2 rideouts this year for hyosung owners , one in midlands & one in derbyshire. It was the biggest one for years.
So if you fancy meeting us all in a road trip? – We are going to Didcot (South UK) in most of 2019 meets. You live in Wales, I will try to organize a Welsh hyo meet around Spring 2019!
I went to Bristol from Yorkhire, about 600 plus miles all in – Didn’t pass through wales, which i am sad about. I actually miss your neck of woods. Always a great ride to wales
My next stop in 2019 should be Lake Bala. So when I make my way to wales , i may give you a shout 😉
I understand when you say “years” under the belt from all the bike roads, tell you what, don’t stop riding yet –
I am sure you both know how liberating it is!
Have a good week, hope you enjoy the stay on here. (It’s a new forum by the way!) – Look for freebie competitions or meetups posted on this website and also the forums.
2019 will get very busy!
Gonna share this on facebook group too.
Do you have any pictures of it ? – Just reply attaching them here (“Add media”) button & i will add them back your topic ^
Fife, Pittenweem to be exact, just thought I’d say HI
Fife in the house! Welcome pal!
You hit the nail on the head, excessive shavings on sump bolt magnet, whining noise from the clutch system side. weak Springs . finished Clutch Plates . Metal Discs distorted
This is what the service manual says, which points to your findings…
So it looks like you may need to overhaul your clutch system.
Take a look at this link below (I go more in detail about the clutch system)…..
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-clutch-plates-replacement/In regards to starting ? Not sure what the starting issue is. You would have to elaborate more.
False N’s can also be clutch system needing attention or electrical Gear “N” sensor (next to sprocket )
I say we deal with the clutch first , then see about dealing with the “N” light.
Hope this info helps!
It it just the nipple on the throttle body that I cannot find a place to connect the other end
If you cover the hole with a bang. Observe your dash for any potential info displayed or else it will run as normal. I’d see how it behaves on a quick ride down the street & return home.
Just to make sure the bike is happy before venturing out on long journeys.
Keep us updated. I can always read the books regarding efi bikes.
How about the airbox ? Are all the air pipes connected too ?
I know some bikes other than hyosung would have a clear-bung (plug) that just covers the hole.
But we have to be sure there is nothing else unconnected on the bike , or has it had history of changes on pipes ? (i know the service manual says to replace hoses every 2-4yrs)
If you ever have some pics of your set up , may help me make sure the 08 bike has its set up right according to books.
Hey,
Good pic but i couldn’t see the rest of your bike setup where did the other pipes go, what happend to the other throttle body?
This is the setup for your 2008 bike,
Also take note , the rest of the pipe set up that follows the AIS (egr / air valve system) device
The sign of high revs could also mean the air filter has rattled loose ? (Inspect the filter bolts) – When taking out throttle bodies, inspect their o-rings like image above.
I know for a fact this also happens on carby bikes with leaky o-rings – They rev high, the rpm needle takes a while to return down to idle.
Hey,
According to the manual – The RO Switch (Roll Over) aka. (TOS Tip Over Sensor) is under the seat.
It should be near the battery, if you read the above ^ pdf file, you would have a visual idea of where it is.According to the service manual (EFI), this is what it says:
“CHE” : The LCD panel ① indicates “CHE” letters when no communication signal from the ECU is received for 3 seconds.
C23 = RO/TOS Switch faulty.
For a more detailed explanation. Download the link below and go to pages:
#27, #34, #47, #66 ,
– Service Manual Link –Personally I don’t have a TPS sensor on mine, if it did, i’d find ways to get rid of it myself. But i have no experience in using other brand manufacture TOS sensors on a GV650
However, the above ^ book at the top, does mention that you may use other brands from “EFi/Ei” (injected bikes.) Designs may also vary too.
This is the most recent TOS sensor hyosung uses that I know dealers to be stocking up,
Hope this info helps, let us know how you get on!
Seems to be an expensive part for a genuine backrest from Korea. About £165-175 new if i was to import direct!!
Quite a rare sight in UK though!
You can also “try” asking too in the facebook group incase someone may be breaking a full aquila
Hey Pete!
Great questions there. Hope this answer helps!
- ALL “GT125” since 1998 use the same coils , same CDI , same regulator.
- They started with a small grey regulator –> then they tried a slightly bigger black regulator a few years later (since 2010 i should say)
(but both fail too much!) They can’t even do 14.6 volts! - They tried to use a newer coil from a 250-EFi (which also works with Carb bikes)
However, no power difference whatsoever.The upgraded reg/rec uses MOSFET tech regulators, which are much more efficient than 1970’s serial/diode tech (Hyo). Very common on big Kawasaki machines, so you know the Japanese don’t like for things to fail.
And I know Kawasaki machines myself, so i studied their electrics in comparison to hyosungs. For example, I would know which pins are plus / negative , how much volts per wire etc…
650 owners = 2 major mods they always do = Drop a 250cc Ninja Magneto & Regulator as the 650s REALLY do cook their stock regulators , so an upgrade was necessary. Hyosung would just keep on sending the same stock ones which would again blow up. No change.
125ccc = All standard hyosung regulators cause so many problems, it’s beyond belief. Just go on our facebook group, also chinese versions have set the bikes on fire & smoke on dashboards.
So I never ever sell them, (too much liability) – Kawasaki tech wins.
Wiring Harness = 125GTR / GT125 Nakeds (all) – Same plug, No change whatsoever.
Ignition Coils = Also a bolt on fit , just look at the shop gallery, so many bikes 2007 plate , 2016 RC , 2012 model etc… Kawasaki race parts here again.
People tried Suzuki SV650 coils on 125, they don’t work. Placebo effect lol.
Remember, no one goes to a mechanic under my watch, I got you! –
For a total novice biker Even clutch change was done at home without paying a random mechanic £200 to do it!Oh by the way! – It’s a great shout check your spark plugs , if they are the “stock ones” (CR8E) – Just bin them. Too heavy & fouls too much.
“CR8E IX” (Blue iridium) or CR8E-Lasers work best! – The coils & reg rec work best with IX or Laser plugs definitely.
Remember, this colour below = a very happy hyosung motor (Good sparks, fuel, air)
(All coffee brown ring/dark biege center)
If there is anything i missed, just let me know! Have a great weekend.
Hey, tell you what…
- Grab a multi meter -> switch to DC 12V (Volts)
- “Bike Off” = battery should be 12.8 (“minimum”) 13v is good.
- “Bike On” = battery must NOT drop below 12.7 whatsoever
(it won’t start on even 11.9v)
Then we know the battery is “HOLDING” charge regardless if you switch the lights off.
If the lights “DIMM” when when you switch them on even though bike isn’t starting = the battery has gone bad. (the lights are a good example of how much power they draw)
When you press the starter button with a weak battery = you will hear loud clicks from the “starter motor solenoid” or it won’t act at all.
Once we have solved the battery issue.
The solenoid immediately should spin the starter motor as soon as you touch the starter button. No delays about it.
If the bike cranks “slowly” – Investigate these 3 in order: Dying solenoid (too common) , starter motor is dying out if its too old or too worn internally (a lot of uses in a short life of the bike) , and lastly the battery (may be sending low current) (weak amps through the wires)
Battery is 12AH/14AH // 180-230 CCA (Cold Crank Amps) (this is starting juice)
Code is “14BS” (eg. VARTA 14BS)Also a local garage should be able to “test” your battery for its internals (not just volts) but wether it needs replacing overall (dead charging cells inside.)
I hope this info helps, but let us know how you get on pal!
I think your “float bowl” gaskets are leaking or the bowls aren’t screwed in tight (maybe one bolt is looser than rest)
I’ve seen this happen a few times to some , usually you can drain the fuel again…then expose the carb bowls.
Investigate the gaskets. If they look crushed or flat, they probably need replacing.
Or re-tighten each bolt that is on the float bowl.
A leak does prevent start ups.
Also, i’d 100% recommend changing the oil as soon as possible , as any wet fuel pouring down the piston chamber, will mix with the oil , glaze the piston walls soon.
