♠️ M77
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I had a feeling it was going to be a sentec or daewoo type but the sentec is the 08/early 09, so very rare nowdays. I’m going to trawl the facebook group if other lads are breaking an EFI 08.
The UK trade makes it difficult to order it new as not made anymore, KRmotors are supporting the latest ECU’s now. I’d have to ring a few breaker yards myself for any write off efi bikes to salvage from.
Let’s keep our eyes open , push comes to shove , there is always the carby route!
We had 2 major meets this year but this one in august was cancelled due to weather, i was looking forward to a welsh trip!
I am going to plan an impromptu meet near manchester or something before the weather turns cold with a few hyosungs but i am hoping 2020 will be better as that gives time to plan, we may meet at Lincolnshire, as we never done one at the east in 2018 , it was all midlands and the near north.
Speaking of travels, welcome back to the bike world and don’t leave so soon again 😉 – By now, you’re probably preparing yourself for a little trip with the hyosung to get in to grips with it.
Good to see more 650 folk onboard, i don’t like the rain either for pleasures lol.
Hey,
For the 2010-2018 bikes (RC new shape), follow this link below:
https://hyoriders.club/shop/service-maintenance/stator-generator-hyosung-gt125rc/It’s because the RC needs a GV’04 flywheel conversion kit to use the uprated stators, new bolts, puller tool, gaskets, all included hence its a special order.
For regulator/Rectifier, it fits all GTR 125 (any shape model), it is this one here:
https://hyoriders.club/shop/service-maintenance/performance-regulator-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-r-gtr/The ignition coils are bolt-on replacement, pretty much swap & go business here.
You get 2x of them ( front & rear in the same box) (a pair)
https://hyoriders.club/shop/gt125-gt125r/high-performance-ignition-coil-hyosung-gv-gt125-250-rtrx-125/If i missed anything, shout away! 👍
Hey, hoping you found you way to access it & see your levels. A torch might be handy if there is low lighting.
If not, Behind the rear engine the reserve bottle should be exposed when the coverings are out of the way, shields/panels. The rear motors of our twins like to run hot lol.
Hey,
It sounds famously like the dreaded 60mph (95kmph) bug that happens to faulty coils or clogged carbs.
Remove your spark plugs and clean them (50/50 chance they may need replacing if they aint sparking hard anymore)
Get a meter , put red wire inside HT cap. Black wire on the frame. You should read 6,000 ohms max (6k) for the coils .
Take a look below and learn how to remove carbs off the bike , then you can clean them.
– Take out the piston slides (black tubes) = clean with a cloth & its carb holes (piston walls)
(they control main jets)– Get a carb cleaner & compressed air can (aerosol air) , and blow the jets clean from particles.
– Put the carb upside down, make sure the floats are 7mm high (not less , not more, just 7)
(full throttle fuel control happens here too)LINK BELOW:
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-how-to-swap-carburetor-main-jets/Let us know if that worked , before attacking other parts of the bike, as these 3 ^ above are usually main culprits (plug | carb | coils)
It would be easier to look at your spark plugs, take them out youself so we see what your engine is doing ?
CR8E is the stock plug thats correct.
Dont think it would have taken a lot of R&D to fit a oil pressure warning light. About 5 mins at a guess, especially as the cluster has the light already fitted.
The aftermarket route was just to fabricate some mini STAGE6 cluster and read the custom fitted sensor near the bottom engine casing.
The 250rs have oil coolers and since the dash is off a 650. It has the TEMP bars switched off on carby models (650 has a water radiator but what gives? Lol)
The EFI 250 came later with a new display off the efi 650s , but modified to turn OFF the temp display….. despite the sensor is clearly visible on the motor block (aka. ET Sensor) they could have just made the extra R&D for dash to display the oil or engine temp anyway or check pressure flow as you mentioned about GV
Its a mess lol, ive read the GV service books. Only says use a hand held gauge to read preasure when servicing thats it.
Welcome to the site fella . Never to late ti be back on the 2 wheeler life , dont exit it again too soon 😉
As for GV250. Ive been working with another member to sort his EFI model as it had some running issues.
If you are able to provide the year it was made eg. 66 plate etc. As GVs have 3 types of ECU.
A list of specific bits missing wouldnt go amiss and some attached images on to this topic could shed more light in to it 🤞
The gv650 read the temps of the radiator and displays it on the dash
the absense of an oil cooler (like the SV) probably means it probably wasn’t intended to have extra sensors for oil related functions of the gv bikesI couldn’t have imagined Hyosung spending extra R&D to do a oil pressure related work & display it on the dash , maybe not readings as in bars or numbers , probably they could have just used a car’s oil lamp that flashes in some sequences (some bikes do this) fast sequences (blink) probably means oil pump issue , slow blink maybe pressure to low etc .
Peharps more likely to have appeared on the EFI bikes as ECU will have a field day with all sorts of sensors attached to bike.Carby life meant the bike just needs CDI, Coils, Carb, Coolant Switch & Temp controlled fan for the radiators. Less R&D time by their hands i guess.
Hey,
Sucks to hear about the drop, trust me i’ve dropped mine in the garden and could hear the wallet crying lol. But with a good chassis, its mainly cosmetics to fix upSpeaking of , the master reservoir fits any hyosung GT/GTR if it has 7/8″ fitment, some Aquilas have 1 inch bars (fatter), so you would have to confirm which one it is , even peharps attached pic too.
I wont lie, rode the inline 4s 400s after my test , test rode friends bikes zx9s , triple 675 , i prefer the hyo twins knowing how the sv650 pulls as my mate had one , i suppose its up to your tastes and what you want out of it, the hyos are quite honest twins lol, fact is know that the hyo pulls better than the Sv anyway.
They are heavy, i wont lie about it, i have to be gentle pushing it around , doesnt feel like it when you start riding away though
Hey sorry i replied late.
Go open the pillion seat. Then look INSIDE at the LEFT SIDE of the bike to access a fuse box.
It should be 15A standard blade fuse. Try that first and let us know if that work?
Usually when a fuse blows , a device on the bike is either dead or some wires touched the frame etc (wiring harness inspection)
Hey,
What spark plugs do you have? Can we see them so I can judge if the carb is rich or not.
Spark plugs will also tell us if your ignition system is good.Just click “add media” above the reply box to add a few pictures in to this thread.
Until we get more info, your story is commonly:
– Ignition Coils.
– HT Caps
===lots of cranks ^ might mean weak sparking system.
===stock hyosung parts & HEAT = cuts off while riding , until something to do with sparking system cools down.If you are sure the fueling is good (eg. carbs cleaned out & good lines) , then look at the “Regulator”. It must say 14.6 volts at the battery , any less? = change it. 13.x volts is not good for these hyosungs.
===lots of SLOW cranks ^ might mean the battery is dying down and wasn’t being charged ==> also send less juice to spark your bike to life.Battery size is 12-14ah ( 14BS) . The speeds these bikes do when its healthy is usually 130-145km max
Hey,
The problem you describe is very commonly 2 things at play here:
– Battery is too small (life is shortened) – It must be size 12-14AH (Yuasa YTX 14BS is good)
– Regulator = All hyosung branded regulators use the old “diode” tech (1970s), so once they get hot , they start to die rapidly which is annoying. It is probably #2 most annoying device after the side stand switch, but i digress lol!
We use proper upgraded ones from Kawasaki (hit “Shop” at the top menu to see what it looks like)When the above ^ is changed over. Keep a good eye on your Stator (genenerator on the left side of engine casing , next to sprocket cover) it gets quite hot (more than the old gen) , it should be doing 75v-99v healthy if you’re handy with the meter to test it.
All charging & ignition starts from this hot device before it tells your regulator to charge your battery & your cdi to send sparking energy to the spark plugs to fire harder. = So all these are kind of intermarried!
If the the bits above ^ are sorted. And you still hear some buzzing sounds or clicking noises when you press “START” , change the solenoid (common) it is that ball next to the battery , it controls starter motor. If starter spins slowly (battery & solenoid are the culprits generally)
Sometimes the RC dash will flicker or spaz out all over the place when Key is ON or START is pressed.
Hope that helps.
Good to hear. Ride steady
I wouldn’t plug anything , the bottom overflow stays open also yes. Fuel in tank can hydro lock along the lines if there is vent issues on cap or tank.
It’s the whole cap that usually gives us drama.
So if the EGR device can simply be removed, can I remove the T juncture in the Yellow line and just run it directly from the manifold boot to the rear pump? Also regarding the leaking fuel cap. Since it does leak when turned upside down, is this something I need to fix or is it fine as long as I keep my tank right side up and not affect performance
The rear pump will be happier when the EGR is blocked yes.
Feed the rear pump straight from the intake manifold 👍
Tank Cap.
Fuel may evaporate and venting issues might crop up on a hot day sometimes.
Id replace the cap as its not user repairable. Seals tend to stay attached to the cap also.
P = blocked with a fat bolt or bung, that stops the fake emissions pump. also block the hole UNDER THE AIRBOX (where P was)
B = overflow / crash drain pipe , it goes to the GROUND (the lines goes along frame till it sees the floor, AWAY FROM EXHAUST PIPES)
C = to tank #2
Tank #1 = Fuel overflow to the ground (like your carb as i explained) , attach a long hose there , and run it down the suspension
A is correct = that’s called REAR PUMP | More info about is at the original post ^The fuel tank lock cap has its own seals and is a spring loaded mechanism, so its always sold as one piece sadly , sounds like you had a fishy device then.
Hey,
Adding to Andy’s comments , there is indeed a couple of 650 guys on the forum much 1 on of them has owned a 2007 650 GTR for 12+ years from new, so he has certainly got wisdom too he shares on facebook, it is BarrySpeaking of , good that you are back on the bike, all that’s left is good memory excercise by checking out one of the service manuals in this forum , having a good read will familarise you more with the bike & how it behaves, although your mechanic will be working on the bike, least the book will point to troubleshooting , interval checks etc.
When the bike is running normally like a stock machine, that’s good , with the 650s generally for electrics some owners go as far as changing the stator for some Ninja ones.
All CC hyosungs generally have these changed out (& for good reason)
– Ignition Coils
– Regulators
– Better lights (ie. Osram Nightbreakers etc)
– Harness is inspected and extra tape in places will help it get less water attacks
– ACF50 to protect all wiring terminals.
– Better HT Caps
– Better Spark Plugs
– Battery
– Stators
– Radiator Fan (DIY work etc if failing to replace the stock)
– Sidestand switch bypassed. (the most useless device on the bike!)I could go on but some of these things above may indeed cause a discussion with your wallet but usually in the long run saves from cuts from rides or replacing the stock item too frequently, eg. regulators hyosung branded rarely last 1yr without starting to wane…
Generally it will last as well as its maintaned & cared upon , just a shame that my own opinion concludes KR makes some interesting looking bikes but certain electrics would be better off from the japanese lol.
Welcome to the forum, & ride easy out there!
If you’re around wales 10th Aug, you may think of seeing us at the next hyo meet in wales , details are in the events section of this forum . I do hope to make it there myself if not then Pete the organizer is taking care of the herd lol.
Okay i see the dash, it has the mechanical fuel sender
Speedo,
Not sure if it was done before, but if the cable is removed and the front wheel drive has been cleaned off foreign debris, refit it all back & go for a quick test ride.if not, my bet would most likely be that the speedo drive could be replaced for another , if it was new as you said, then the next process of elimination would be the cable itself , before attacking the dash last.
Fuel Gauge,
You can remove the whole instrument cluster off the steering base, be sure to watch the cables.
Loosen the instrument cluster from its own mounting bracket too, as it helps gain access to the fuel gauge under it.
The gauge has 3 wires and short plug going to it, it should come out on its own under the dash for inspection.
With the fuel gauge unit exposed on the table, gently (& slow) push the needle up then see if it comes down on its own fast or slow without hesitation ?Also clean the terminal plugs if there was signs of debris. Refit the whole dash back.
As you ride, see if it still behaves that way again?You can then drain the fuel tank, look at the fuel sender inside the tank, take it out. Some have a small bolt attached to one of the linkages of the float, tighten a little and refit it back.
Clean the plug of the sender to incase of any rust or debris in terminals. The sender’s resistance signal changes as the fuel goes up then towards empty, this tells the dash what level to tell you its at, so good condition wiring helps near the terminals.There is about 3 types of senders in all GT (any cc) (IIRC), some have a long arm float , some have a big spindle type design – You would only know when its taken out. Just be sure to keep the main seal clean from any future leaks, it can be hard to find on its own lol.
Your last resort likely be a replacement of the gauge (dash side) or level sensor (tank). Age can wear down some moving parts, always good to have a look.
