♠️ M77
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I wish you the utmost lock and anything you need , we got you 🙂
And please do keep sharing the pictures because i actually love seeing those bikes get a 2nd chance on the road. They are wonderful to ride , i could be biased but coming from a Kawasaki and GS , the hyosungs are nice chunkies in their own right.
I went to shops with my GV and i couldn’t believe how narrow the Suzuki GS500 looked compared to my GV lol. I’ve forgotten , that’s how much i’ve got used to hyosungs as my main toys but i supposed i should give other branded bikes i have some loving this summer!
You got this fella!
The BDS-Twin carbs used by Hyosung with Mikuni Japan making specific brackets for Hyosung bikes means even the airbox & intake rubber manifolds don’t any other carbs besides the OEM ones. Also there is also the issue of the engine moaning, its a tunning hell to use even Keihins but hey , sky is the limit!
If you can make a special airbox (Cone Filters are crap & always will be) and make special intake manifolds to hold the carbs in , then you could try to do it.
Also engine design expects “twin-carbs” (1 carb for each cylinder) , pistons don’t spin at the same rate/time. Unlike other vtwins. Hyosung sometimes is in a world of its own 😉
May i ask why ? The 125cc can never exceed the power capacity of the carbs because the GV250 also uses it. But tuning and ultrasonic cleaning is what goes a long way
Assuming “compression is 175 psi” – Clearances are “0.10 ish IN and 0.20 ish EX” – Clutch plates are 2.6-3.1mm thick, then engine is OK too. Sometimes a good carb is let down by a poorly engine or bad electronics and vise versa.
I hope you remember where all the pipes went because i forgot to make a tutorial on how to do fuel diagrams for 650 , i must really get on it! Sorry.
The carbs would still could do with a nice clean up inside and outside, they look better than the rusty carbs found on other bikes left in gardens to rot , so you will have an easier time blasting it clean.
If in doubt, check the jet sizes on it too. Also it is a shout that you could always give it fresh valve seats for the floats as they control how much fuel comes in before the floats shut em off , and fresh gaskets lessen the risks of fuel leaks , if the carb hasnt been touched for a while the gaskets may have been caked up a little bit.
(See the hyoriders shop)The bike has a Vacuum Mikuni Pump near the yellow bar where fuel tank sits on. It is not electric , but it rarely fails unless again , if its been a while you could always replace it. If need be, i can send over another fuel pump from our running donor bike.
Since you live in AUS i understand if shipping times between UK and AUS are not something you want to wait for, it is possible i may use faster logistics , but send me an email for any sales enquiries.
The spark plug looks to be the wrong type , i would get CR8E new ones from any local store that sells bike or auto parts. Try them first. Don’t bother with DENSO or the crappy Iridium IX plugs from NGK. The 650 will be happy either with its stock CR8E or LASER NGK plugs (See hyoriders shop)
Try CR8E first before upgrading the plugs.
The ignition coils that sit on the frame , need the area to be free from rust as they use the frame for “ground signal” , the same way spark plugs use the engine + frame + battery negative as ground signal.
Sand off the rust till its shiny, then apply a thin layer of ACF-50 (No WD40 please, its a fire hazard!) = ACF50 is every biker’s must have and it will not go on fire. In fact, use it inside every single wiring harness connector on your bike (that way wiring harness plugs in your bike won’t oxidize too much or rust away)
Thanks for the welcome, bit far to push it to Yorkshire, but a kind offer.
Not too worry if push comes to shove , we do collections but only when your local choices are exhausted then we can help. You got this covered im sure 🙂
Tried that and got bubbles out top, but decided to look closely at caliper. One piston very difficult to get out and badly pitted, so I’ve decided to get new master, caliper and pipe-line! Looking on ebay it’s nearly as expensive to get repair kit as to buy new complete caliper from Hyosung.eu. One thing though, the master doesn’t show the stop light switch. Is this transferable from mine, or will it come with it?
i hope you get the correct parts , otherwise i can always help you as usual. I even sell stainless pistons. You can keep your old caliper. No need to replace it, its downfall is always the cheap axle pins and pistons, hence we do stainlesss so you won’t worry about that again.
Master cylinder , the GV uses a different switch that’s like a cylinder which goes in the GV master cylinder. Others will be a switch box under the lever with 2 spade terminals. So it may mean cutting up your GV brake switch wires.
Don’t cut the main bike harness (very difficult to get one) .
You can get
2x spade connectors (to connect the aftermarket brake switch box if using Non Hyo master cylinder)
2x speaker wires
1x harness jacket or a long shrinkwap to encapsulate the 2 wires like what hyosung does with their 2 wire cables.
1x tape (waterproof up those wires!)
2x “bullet” connectors (to join main bike harness) (if i remember correctly! as i am a little drunk as its weekend!)
I would have done this while i was getting you a master cylinder so you can just fit and play.If the tank has a vacuum petcock under and contains fuel. The tank that’s on the table should not be pissing out fuel, That’s bad. It would cause hydrolocking if the carb floats fail and you have fuel inside the pistons and a very stinky “water-like” oil. I would not ride the bike until such fuel parts get replaced one by one.
Very good question you asked!
Hey welcome sir!
Fire away with any questions and pictures when you make a new technical post on this site.
If push comes to shove , just send her to Yorkshire as i fix the Hyosungs on a regular basis.
Keep her , when summer hits you will enjoy it for what it is 🙂
it sounds like it could do with a quick check on the carb jets to make sure all is correct , and while its apart, why not give it a long ultrasonic clean job as it will really thank you.
Also pull out your plugs , check they are the correct ones and if you want, you can upload pics of the plugs so we see what your mixture is like.
Have a check on your fuel tap and fuel pump too, sometimes if they act funny, they can hold back a lot , so the carb feels starved off a bit.
Let us know how the fuel system investigations go , before we look deeper elsewhere on the bike.
You got this!
As mentioned before on social media, i can repeat it here incase anyone else is wondering too 🙂
H3 55w max 12v ratingH1 55w 12vIMO my fav halogens areOsram NB bulbsAndPhilips Xtreme VisionDont bother with LEDs UNTIL Osram & Philips start doing it with road legal markings but most dont fit inside the headlight casing due to them having grills and cooling fans atop them. Too messy for now.Have you already found a GT250 in your country that’s in either;
– Salvage Yard (Breakers/Dismantlers)
– Dealer shop (used , so you can have a backup donor for parts)
– or someone selling a hyosung locally ?It is easier to try to use the OEM GT250 parts as everything fits together nicely.
You can heat up that area a bit since heat causes metal to expand slightly and soak in some old bike oil between the pipe and the reducer, so you want the walls to slip up and pull it out.
in the end with penetrating oil, angle grinder and 3 hours, it’s finally out….. turns out they used JB weld the b****ds.
That’s just evil lol. Glad u got it sorted.
Hmmm, do you know what jets are inside the car already ?
– Pilots = size? front and rear.
– Mains = sizes ? front & rear.Can you also get 3 pictures of your spark plugs ?
– Side view (threads) = I will gauge if motor is overheating or not or oily threads etc…
– Top center view (I’d like to see how dark the middle cone is (how well its sparking vs fuel mix vs air)
– Name of the plug (ie. CR8EHX incase previous owner put the wrong plugs for it)Keep us posted with the specifics , i shall help narrow things down for you sir
Whoa whoa wait….
You have a CARBY GV ? Not the EFi model ? Please confirm before i dispatch and i will have to change products inside the box!
Do you think i was too confusing between the Carby & EFi pages of the GV chains ? = I can always edit the product descriptions to make my english a little clearer ? Sorry about this.
Hello,
Yes if it is Mrs L….. then yes , it is in progress 😉 , it is due dispatch Friday/Saturday , there was a minor delay with the supply chain, so i had to get a different branded chain of good quality but don’t panic , everything is ready and boxed up , just waiting on courier.
If you would be so kind to post some pictures of your bike with the kits fitted.
Also head to the “product page” of the GV-125 EFi (injected) chain kit and leave a raw review so i can’t see how well the kit did for you and i’ll do better next time 🙂 , it would mean a lot. Even if there is something i should improved (eg. i can always ask my cnc guy to try replicate the sprocket again with more or less teeth) , for now i’ve balanced it to try get best of both worlds (trying to add a little more top end without sacraficing acceleration after all we need the 125s to pull well incase of overtaking.) but i am digressing ,
Tell her I sent an email already explaining the minor delay (check junk folder too) and it’s on the way , do not worry 🙂
Another trick, get your CALIPER pistons out, ultrasonic clean the body and carefully refit the pistons back in with their seals (caution that you may need new seals again) (Common Hyosung item to resolve when servicing brakes or if pistons have gone bad , which allows air to get in to system sometimes.)
Before you fit the pistons in fully, put them about 10% inside the caliper.
Now fill brake fluid in the master cylinder (check washers are good for the hoses or may hiss or leak air, or fluid out)
Once the master cylinder is filled in.
Put brake pads inside the caliper.
Now press the pads so that they compress the caliper pistons down fully inside the caliper
The master cylinder should be hissing and bubbling up at the top, suggesting most air is leaving the brake system
Then as usual, try to pump your brakes and bleed a little then pump your brakes , if it fails , it could actually be the piston itself not being suitable or strong enough. it could then mean time for a master cylinder replacement
Keep us posted!
Absolutely jealous , but i am loving your sceneries, you really do live in the right spots. KLX for the wilderness or bugging out 😉 , Hyosung for the fun!
Though if you’re brave, you can throw in some trail tyres on the hyosung and hold on tight!You can heat up that area a bit since heat causes metal to expand slightly and soak in some old bike oil between the pipe and the reducer, so you want the walls to slip up and pull it out.
How are you liking the KLX compared to the Hyosung GT ?
To be fair it is a quiet season as most of us in the north aren’t riding too much until March , then it’s bike season all the way till autumn , i intend to make the most of it too 🙂
Meanwhile, babies stay inside getting a fix up and overhaul there and there 😉
Just looked up the GV300SA. I love it! Want one! €5250 new – incredible! I can dream!
We have to win Lotto lol
Which spark plugs do you use ? (Exact name and part number)
Did you do any valve clearances to the engine? Did a compression check too ?
Also check this too….
- HT Caps = Heat makes them fail sometimes , that’s why some of us tend to use NGK caps , but you can still use another HT cap from a Suzuki bike near your country’s salvage wreckers yard or bike shop and try it again?
- Ignition Coil = Because it is injected and model specific , the ECU wants the coils at a certain resistance to performance
–So check the coil for “primary resistance” and “secondary resistance” and let us know
Eg… 24,000 ohms and 00.10 ohm.
Keep us posted!
