Jason
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So there was a guy who did a swap to an aftermarket digital dash with success. The only problem I see with it is you will no longer get any fault codes.
Good heavens! – Are they all Halogen? If you make some kind of guide / tutorial, i will share this on UK groups online as the night time in UK is terrible with most little villages out of the city in full pitch black, and animals have free will on the farm roads we would not want to run over! In fairness, i threw in the best regulators and stators i can get, some osram nightbreaker bulbs & call it a night! (no pun intended)
So I have ripped out the guts of the housing and manufactured brackets to mount LED projector lenses. I would not recommend this upgrade without upgrading the rectifier.
I have measured the Lux of a standard headlight being of a little over 200. The Lux of my upgraded unit is a little over 1000.
I am now manufacturing these Units here in Australia and offer an exchange service for $300 AUD. Im happy to help people overseas with this upgrade if they want to contact me.
So my upgraded light has been running for about 3 months now. I will let the pics tell the story.
Probably already sorted but the flywheels between the carby, daewoo and delphi bikes are all different. To my knowledge the stators in all are the same. Pickup sensors are interchangable between daewoo and delphi. Not sure with a carby bike.
The problem will be with the flywheel.
I dont have a spare starter unfortunately. Have you tried putting 12v directly on the starter to see if it works?
If you hear a click then most likely it is the starter motor. I noticed you are in Australia, so am I. If you need spares let me know.
So just bolting it all back together and hopefully I will get a chance to ride the new setup in the dark tonight. Unfortunately it won’t be plug and play and will require a little bit of modifying to the hi/low beam switch.
As soon as I am happy I will post up a little story for those interested.
Oooo, care to share some pictures of this1?
Absolutely. I will take some shots of the one I am currently doing. I am modifying the initial design of brackets on my first light to make them more stable.
Im thinking if there is enough people interested I could sell these.
The wiring will be plug and play and will have two low beam and two high beam.
So I went ahead and pulled the existing headlight apart. This was to study the internals of the unit and figure out what was going to fit.
I ended up ordering a 3 inch and 1.8 inch LED projectors which set me back a little over $100 AUD for the pair.
Manufactured some brackets and put it all back together.
I downloaded a light meter and installed it on my phone to measure the light outputs.
Original was about 200 LUX the new improved version came to a little over 1000 LUX.
The difference to night riding is out of this world.
I have fitted a led unit to my gt250, pretty easy to do, new shell the right size was the hardest bit to find but once I got that job done.
So did you dismantle the light and replace the projectors or just fit LED globes?
If the 250 is similar to the 650 they are triggered by the ecu to ground. The yellow spark is most likely low voltage.
Do all the regular checks, resistance of stator, resistance of pick up coil. Can you short out the dealer plug to get a code?
I had this exact problem when I changed over a new master cylinder after an accident ruined the original.
If there hasn’t been any fluid in the system for a while you will probably find the chevron seals in the master cylinder have gone hard.
Thanks yep thats what I’ve discovered as well. I haven’t been able to get back to this yet.
When I do I will update the topic for all.
the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Im currently sourcing the surface mount LED’s. Im having trouble as I believe they are 12 volt units. I have found 3 LED’s with brown spots in them which indicates they are burnt out.
So turns out the LED was shot. Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.
This also could be worth a shot; Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape. That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.
I have been able to determine that its in the panel itself. The circuit board doesnt look that complicated with the cluster apart.
The engine was warm when I did it but not at operating temps. The last owner complained of it being down on power as well.
The other possibility is that it has slipped a tooth on the timing gear. When I get a chance I will pull the rocker cover off and start digging.
Last update on this bike for a while.
I still had trouble with the bike running. Most parameters seemed to be in check.
I managed to borrow a compression tester and got the following results:
Front cylinder = 150psi
Rear cylinder = 90psi.
There is no way I will ever get tis bike to run properly with those readings. I believe 1 of two things has happened:
- Because of the blocked injector it has leaned out that cylinder so much it has annealed the rings.
- The timing gear has slipped a tooth.
Only way to find out for sure is to start pulling the engine apart.
