♠️ M77
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Sorry that I did not upload the rest of the manuals for the 250 , i will get it done but in the meantime, go to ManualsLIB website and search for 2016-2017 instead as this was the most common year for delphi model 250cc bikes.
Heat generally is the enemy of electronics , have a look at your coils and caps.
The plugs will tell you if your injectors are doing OK or the ignition parts (coil , caps are going funny – caps more likely than a coil but both can take each other out)
Fuel Pump = Open the tank when you get free time , drain fuel and inspect the strainer of your fuel pump , hopefully it doesnt scream “needs replacing” incase the pump is not drawing as much fuel as efficient due to a clogged sponge (strainer/filter)
In your country, get this bottle (or similar) but avoid REDEX please:
Pour 2x bottles in the tank (all of it) , ride with 1/2 of normal petrol in the tank , what we want to do here is see if the cleaner will do its job from the pump, injectors, fuel lines , etc and report back to see if the mood has changed ?
Slow Riding = Check your thermostat, it might not be opening/closing properly or not at all , and depending how old the coolant is, flush the system and replace with Motul Factory Line coolant (my personal favourite) , as Hyosungs generally like motul products.
If it is due for oil change, try Motul 7100 (Best oil for hot twins)
Notice I did not give a specific answer , as if i said thermostat , i could be wrong when the bike was screaming about a faulty ignition coil, so its better to do a process of elimination.
Yes, because the woodruff key is needed to lock the rotor. You can feel how heavy it is don’t you!
So if it was missing or broken, you would also have “ROUGH” running as its not spinning properly which could eventually lead to a catastrophic failure.
Make sure the NUT is good otherwise get a new serrated nut that or metal-lock insert nut and use RED LOCTITE on the threads after replacing the woodruff key.
Any Hyosung 250 will have the same size or message local breakers for a much quicker acquisition of that part. Get a spare engine if you have to and its a good backup to have for the future 🙂
Hello admin, I don’t mean to disturb. Just want to check in but I haven’t heard from you. Thank you
You have been replied via email.
RegardsGot my eye on it. Good shout! – Might come in handy when i do another GV Chopper job
What rear light is that?
From the bright red it was , i could say the black/silver theme could work. I tend to like my bikes black as sleepers or red if i want to turn heads but now i am set on black! Easier to hide an odd scratch i may cause with my keys!
It looks 100% better with the backrest / sissy bar 👍
Hi Marcel, it was the front cylinder. I tested the cap, it seemed to be working intermittently if that’s possible? Anyway I had another lying around and fixed it. I will change them to ngk soon.
Switching to NGK is a wise move indeed.
Delphi ECU, that’s good. It should be a little easier, so send an email (click here) with your address and i will spend sometime this week to look for it in the UK (where I am) and hopefully we have some news
Find some one breaking a donor bike in Nigeria or a neighbour country in Africa that can ship to you quickly
2012 = Daewoo ECU , very rarely globally and tends to be problematic.
If you see a 2016 crash GT650R in your country, take it because it uses the better Delphi ECU and harness
You have the HANKUK Korea coils (early Daewoo ones) , Hyosung used other companies to make that particular coil , it is the same as these ones we stock up
Your OEM ones will have green writing that says GT650 or GV650 (same coils these 2009 models share)
Hyosung left Australia many years ago (no news yet if they will return), unless you find a good set of used ones locally if in a mega hurry
Does the front even spark ?
If not ==> Put the REAR coil to the front and tell us if it sparks ?
You can upload a picture of your current coil on here if possible ? Try now.
GV Aquilas have different coil sizes now and Hyosung has made multiple revisions under the hood that’s why.
Not that i know of sorry , peharps a local 3d print shop in your country can replicate your fairings if you get a spare one from a crashed bike ?
Unless you get a flywheel puller tool from the USA eBay (it should be there) then the other method (possibly) involves these 2 parts
Step 1 =
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FTVOGUE-Adjustable-Spanner-Flywheel-Motorcycle/dp/B09Y111WH6
That part can hold the drum tight so you can UNDO the nutStep 2 =
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yfS1yJ0wL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpgMeasure the diameter of your Hyosung flywheel center where the threads are with a venier caliper , as 250 will either be needing a 30mm or 35mm puller tool – i can’t remember myself correctly as i haven’t stripped a bike this winter
This should help you hopefully!
It would be a good idea to also check for a spare ECU in your area and hold on to it, sometimes the microchip inside the ECU could act funny and not reset properly.
As long as you have used the service manual and a pocket meter to verify readings of the IAP sensor and also check the connection from the PLUG CONNECTOR of harness going all the way back to the ECU block is good for signal consistency (like for example if one wire from the sensor is Orange with Blue Line ==t> follow it to the ECU and probe both ends with a meter to make sure the circuit is good, and there is no kinks or damage on the harness that could twist the little wire)
Simon generally says on the forum to always clean connectors , if the pins are heavily oxidized or too dirty, this can increase OHMS (resistance) which the ECU thinks Sensor is reporting 300 ohms but it is not true, the sensor said 100 ohms when i put it on the table in kitchen , so wiring harness cleanliness helps keep resistance down as it commicates back to the ECU
Don’t even use liquids on the ECU plug , use compressed air and blow it hard on the ECU pins and also ECU plug , wait to dry , sometimes some compressed air cans have liquid gas fumes! – If you use an electric compressor , then its fine as its just blowing air only , if using electric air compressor, be gentle as some electric compressors can blow very hard, we would not want to blow off a fragile ECU pin!
When the weather is warm , go for a ride up and down your street and see how you feel and watch its behaviour too. Dont ride in the rain , until you can be sure your electrics wont get water ingress!
Is it the rubber one? and is it 2 gaskets (front and rear , or just x1 for one cylinder head?)
I myself need also a rubber gasket as the rear engine of customer bike is leaking oil, so it was frustrating as i was finishing my job. I am on the hunt too.
Send me an email please below and i will tell if i found it or not from my suppliers then i will ask your address in email for postage cost.
I really hope yours is NOT too bad and still can be saved ? – it is getting harder to get 650 gaskets! (Which is funny as Hyosung is still making 650cc engine, they just released a GV650PC ABS EFi , so i will try to contact one of the EU importers)
6 times ? I would definitely recommend real japan proper mosfet regulator kits like the ones we do on the shop, as the stock/replicar regulators fail more than the stator does. It is just an idea.
Right now, the bike is still charging OK!
Temps = Thermostat and FAN Switch Sensor , these 2 will go crazy from time to time, so i would check your thermostat. Also the FAN switch or Engine Temp Sensor should be checked to see if they are in spec
Testing the sensor involves using a pocket meter to check for OHMS readings and use the 650R service manual on this forum ==> the bike manual will advise what figures your sensors must have.
Don’t dip them in water as the contacts will go bad! (But it is OK to put only the “gold tip” inside the warm water on your table == get a glass home thermometer , put it inside the bowl , it will say water from your kettle is 55c , so go to the manual and look for 55c , the sensor could be saying 700 OHMS at 55c but the manual says it must be 400 OHMS , this means the sensor is reading out of spec ? Do this a few times to get a consistant figure before deciding to replace it or not)
Thermostart , it should open at the temperature the manual says , otherwise you have trapped boiling coolant in the cylinders and ECU turns the fan on , but the thermostat did not OPEN to send hot fluid to radiator! – Just a possibility.
Also try MOTUL FACTORY LINE coolant = It is my favourite bike coolant ever. It just does the job well. Castrol “might” be OK but i don’t trust their OILS!
When you re-flush , be sure not to have trapped air in the cooling system too.
Keep us posted & good luck.
I typically replace the oil/filter every 1000km or so (The bike is only 6000 km old). I’ll try that Motul 7100 and see how it is. Sometimes I can use my electric start for a few minutes after I’ve been riding for a while and the oil is hot. To be completely honest I’ve never opened the bike to that extent before, so I am a little nervous. I was going to order a flywheel puller, and I was trying to find the correct size gasket first before I do anything. Relay and starter are on the way so I will let you know how it goes next week!
Take your time, you got this!
It is a GT125 Carb Model? what year ? and does it look like this ?
I have 2x used ones in stock, this is the 1st one i have:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257122314120
and this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257288241573
ebay should allow Global Shipping already in the checkout , if it fails, send me an email ON HERE (not ebay messages) and i will make a quote , as ebay wont like sellers making transactions inside ebay messages.
If not, we will wait for the picture – It sounds like an LCD display failure?
