โ ๏ธ M77
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Share a markeplace link for it, then hopefully someone can message you about the advert through there as PM’s on the forum are temporarily removed. It’s a shame you have to let it go, you can always keep it and convert it to another EFi system (find parts hopefully eBay USA as that is the biggest 650 market)
The tip Over Sensor is directly where the battery is , that yellow bar where your fuel tank sits on, unless it got bypassed.
Is there a chance of stripping the bike again and looking for any burn marks along the harness ? also where cables bend at the steering head + under the seat, look for fraying / chaffing ?
Check the sprocket cover and see if magneto cables have any fray or chaffing ?
If the Right Hand Switch Gear works (all buttons) , you wont need a meter on there, but make sure its black connector under the airbox is clean from any rust , debris etc that might disturb the signals , as the ECU does use the Kill Switch to communicate error codes to the dash when user flicks it 3 times fast before starting.
Since you can get a contact cleaner and air spray, spare a day where you can clean every single socket you can find on the bike and let it dry overnight.
โ ๏ธ Don’t spray contact cleaner on the ECU! – Only dry air allowed.
You can clean the ECU plugs though, it will help with reducing some resistance from pin oxidization, so cleaner signals can pass through. Just make sure its been 24hrs before connecting all your sensors back, so it is fully dried out. it is still spring season, so air is still a bit damp to ride away immediately.
12.5V is OK but 12.8V is a charged battery
Running Idle = 13.5-14.5v max
5,000 revs = 14.5V maxAny higher , bin the regulator but becareful with TEMU style regulators , they will smoke the bike in minutes , just look at the last post here
Bike wonโt fire cold but it fires once working = GT250R 2012
Use 250 jets pilots and mains, because of bigger pistons, or it will be lean and burn a hole in the piston.
Don’t worry about the vacuum pump, all 125 / 250 are using 650cc pump – Hyosung uses a 650cc pump on their 125/250 motors. So if a GV650 can use the vacuum pump, your 250 will never max it out.
Good luck!
If I convert to vacuum, can I use the intake hoses from the 125? With the carburetor setup from the 250?
Yes you can.
Hey you mentioned, sometimes it has starting issues when on kickstand, is it bypassed ? and if yes , remove the bypass to check if the wires had internal corrosion, it happens sometimes with these new Gen RC machines.
Also check your tilt-sensor or replace it ? if your mechanic can use a tilt sensor from another bike, it is also called RO Sensor (Roll Over), bike maybe thinks you fell down ? so it shuts off sparks & starting, it can happen, I am not sure it is a good idea to bypass it (heaven forbid the bike falls in the garden and it is still running!)
If its an EFi 250cc , you need the full donor bike (EFi Tank, All electronics, Exhaust because it has lambda sensors , EFi airbox, EFi dash)
This is assuming you are using an EFi 250.
Otherwise if it is a carb model, upgrade your 125cc jets to 250cc one and keep using the 125 vacuum pump (that electric pump in picture is worthless = too many problems that’s why Hyosung used vacuum pump on all carb models after this)
Duplicate Topic, so it is closed. Other one was responded to.
Always been a fan of the blue colour , its a colour no one can hate! its good to see it out and i hope you add at least 1000 miles on it this summer. as all them years of sitting you have an long overdue summer dates with it!
Use a good torque wrench that can go up to 100 ft lbs
= Rear Wheel Axle bolt (usually 60 FT LBS]
= Front Sprocket Nut [About 50 ft lbs]
= Sprocket Rear Bolts = M8 threaded bolts depending what Hyosung uses (sometimes they use Torx bolts or tradtional bolt an nut) , aim for about 15 ft lbs (a smaller torque wench is better for this)
= Sprocket Cover Small bolts = 6 ft lbsI use FT_LBS as its easier for me to understand than NM , but any numbers can use Google to translate this, eg. 50ft.lbs is 67N.M
Some torque wenches only read N.M , if you can’t find one that reads FT LBS, get the N.M one that reads up to 120mn , or else 90nm (because we need 80nm torque the wheel axle)
See here for EFi 125 tutorial written by someone else (if you didn’t see it)
[How to Tutorial] Upgrade 520 chain & sprocket kit on GV125-S EFi (GV125 S 2019+ Models)
Hyosung uses china springs & china plates on the latest GV125-S EFi (to save costs) , so they are prone to slippage sometimes, if you were to switch to EBC UK springs & EBC plates they definitely help the basket last a bit longer since the GV EFi will probably carry luggage etc (being a cruiser etc) , you want the stronger springs to bite harder , you will notice it more when changing gears with Motul 7100 oil (great Ester oil)
If you ever dare change the exhaust, use the OEM Harley one, as other ones will loose power on the GV-S (Historically, GV Aquilas were always slower than their GT sisters, and using slash cut cans make them worse) , it would make your other upgrades pointless , so best cans so far are “OEM Hyosung” yes the ugly one or the Harley OEM one (it;s stock but slimmer and is almost OK enough not to loose too much backpressure as vtwins start their power in lower revs than screaming i4/i1 bikes.)
See here: https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/exhaust-suggestion/
@Tom in that topic has posted a youtube link and name of the HD exhaust (HD = harley davidson)Stay away from knock off Temu exhausts lol, china doesnt care
Hi , If you don’t mind , would you be able to let us know what you were saying in English please?
You can read the oil line banjo of the rear cylinder, gives a good enough indicator of the temps if trying to compare with the front. The rear cylinder doesn’t allow much room under the frame.
Or do a custom job to bore the cylinder itself near its internal oil gallery and tap a sensor to it like what Hyosung does to the front cylinder on EFi machines, so you have to be careful here unless you have a spare cylinder to experiment on.Ignore those plugs. thats dealer mode.
Switch on the bike and, let the fuel pump prime. Then flick the killswitch ON/OFF 3 times quickly , (the big red button) and see what error code comes up on the dash ?
Also it may flash a sequence of red Fi light, so count the sequences.
Check the forum now for the service manual (250 EFi) in the “manuals” section of the forum, it will describe in more detail how to get error codes.
You can try replacing the battery cables and see what happens there on, a full harness replacement is usually last resort but they are getting rarer now as there seems to be a few left on ebay based on the ECU the bike has.
Hi, no worries if you owned the bike since 2012, so definitely not a novice at this ๐ and check ebay now, there is an OEM tap being sold now that mounts to the frame and good luck when you get it.
The UK Hyo scene is more or less run off to FB as doing “forums” seems ancient for some people and they like “instant replies” on facebook! – We have a group called “Hyosung official club” on FB with Barry as my co-admin, he is on this forum too. Most people 10+ yrs ago have moved on , you may find these individuals still on FB if you want to pm them yourself.
GT is dying down in UK as Hyosung has moved on to GV Aquilas now , hence you will find mostly GV owners now in UK
Anyway, get that OEM frame tap on ebay before it goes, some other guy is selling it.
about 50c on a fast 70mph road on a summer day but hovers at 90c in rush hour traffic or less 80c but limit should be about 100c before its cooking itself, this confirms data on the EFi service manual on engine temp sensor ranges (only 250 EFi gets it and is for the ECU only, so you wont see it on the dash)
A fan might be overkill , as you want the radiator to not have objects on it to pass air through the back of the rear engine so it gets some air , however since you’re on a naked bike , it should get more than enough air will ever need and a 250 cooler to help it. A fan might be extra tax on the electrics (albeit a tiny tax)
There is no hard data on the 125cc/250cc from Hyosung but generally air-oil cooled engines will hover around 50c at 70mph road , assuming the sensor is in the cylinder head, anything over 100 isn’t good long term
Have you taken the tank off to inspect the harness for any signs of shorting or wiring burns ?
Was there any chance the old regulator likely popped one of the electrics ?
Horn is triggered by the left switch gear, disconnect it and see.
While it is apart, attempt to download the service manual on this forum , so it gives you instructions on getting an error code from the ecu (red icon will flash in a sequence which tells the error)
Check your neutral switch and clutch switch contacts/plugs = they would stop the bike from starting.
A bike violently loosing power with the horn blaring loud suggests either electric spike or a shorting somewhere but that is new to me also, all my years of dealing with hyosungs (mine and customer ones), this one is strange considering the bike is only 2k miles old. Practically young!
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Starter is grounded to the frame and battery, so the long cable is the positive from the solenoid yes.
