♠️ M77
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cute seeing mini damsel going over dad’s ride before he sets off lol. get that ‘all clear’ from her first! 😉
Due to the nature of our 3 phase stators and our regulators , the Hyosungs flactuate between 13.5 to 15V max as the accepted service manual standard , so in thus , they advise to use AGM batteries (maintenance free type)
The best brand is YUASA , with UniBatt & VARTA (German) coming a close 2nd tier. Everyone else is overhyped junk. I’ve always trusted YUASA ones from Halfords and Bike shops (rather than getting it online due to risk of fakes or outdated old stock) – If buying online, make sure the seller verifies the battery isn’t older than 2 months max even if he says its fine (he wants money) , batteries are not things i want to play with lol.
Lithium relies on a constant steady supply of 14v (not more than 0.1 v above 14.00, not even o.2v less) and if something goes badly wrong, they are very explosive!
Get a JIS screwdriver as it is not normal philips. So a JIS driver is easier.
Then remove only the float bowls and top covers. Leave the rails attached to keep the 2 carbs joined. Gain access to an ultrasonic cleaner. There is a lot of videos on youtube if you type in “how to clean CV carb” as our carb is a CV type.
Red pin is idle adjuster. Looks aftermarket as old owner likely snapped old one.
Cables that go to the carb are CHOKE on the rail and also THROTTLE cable at the side of the carb.
If not access to Ultrasonic cleaner or lend the carb to someone in garage who can do it. It is possible to use 10x cans of carb cleaner at halfords (yes you will go through that much believe me)
Will edit original title when i get back for sure. Whatever you do. Take your time. Believe me you will keep your hair that way!
Edit, i was typing a long reply , and my stupid PC deleted it! and it’s almost 9pm , long day lol – Frustrating lol. So here is the short version
Email us below with a specific list of what you need , if i don’t have it on ebay (where you found us) or on this Hyoriders Shop, then ofcourse i will buy a new one for you
If you can’t be sure what the part is called , i will respond back asking for a picture you can edit with a circle or point your finger showing me what it is.
I was also going to say i am glad you’re saving her and this thread could be renamed/edited to have a new title saying “Saving GT125R from Hades, Rising a phoenix!”
I will follow this topic as It would be interesting to see how you get along with it 🙂 , don’t scrap anything that can be future handy spares!
Yes it is needed to stay there because both cylinders actually move fuel back and forth , and sometimes it is to help escape some air pressure on to the road if it builds up in the float bowls.
Shorting peharps ?
Ie, a naked wire touched the frame somewhere near the steering head , or along the left side of the frame towards the back or back seat has water in the wires going to tail lights ?So its a full strip down to investigate the harness (ONLY if you have tried my previous comment above first)
Try my previous comment above where i talked about plugs to check , sometimes maybe the ignition wires broke off under the oil cooler resulting no power to the bike.
I hope it’s that , instead of a bad regulator frying the electronics for good.
Speaking of parts = Send us an email for personalized sales quotes , otherwise , have a look around the shop and email us if you want something else we didn’t list up.
I realize this topic is old from 2020 , so whatever you do, reply on a brand new topic of your own if you can ,
Nice Job! – Edited the title so its easy to find for anyone else too.
The GT250 Naked uses 1/2 or 3/4 piston due to it having a single disc.
The GT250R uses a 650R master cylinder that has a 5/8 piston to be able to brake 2 discs.
So if you want to use 2 discs , get the 250R cylinder (which borrows from the 650R anyways)
Yes 1 & 2 join together = then it becomes overflow to the road surface. If the bike falls on its side, or accident , the carb should dump its fuel right out of those pipes 1 & 2
#3 = Yes join both bowls there , the accelerator pump actually sends fuel to both bowls , to squirt fuel towards the cylinders.
No problem,
I recommend Motul 7100 Ester Grade oil , it is best oil for Hyosungs and the second alternative i trust is Silkolene Pro 4 Ester Grade oil
You can check out the other info in the service book (click this link here)
Hope this helps
Go on the carb , remove it and see if there is a “throttle plate” attached to stop bike going full throttle (some EU countries have restrictions until rider upgrades license)
Or take it to a DYNO shop , and tell us the real power made, the guy will also look around for any restrictions added by previous owner to limit its power. Usually its the throttle , carbs , and exhaust and intake restricted.
It’s not possible to restrict Korea’s CDI’s.
If it is EFi , yes it is possible to fine tune it but it has to be DELPHI ECU only. Older ECU’s on EFI bikes are too difficult.
On the plus side, with Kawa bars you can fit custom bar ends!
Welcome to the site and that black beauty is stunning!
Have you been out on it yet ? This whole week was a total heatwave of 30c plus temps , i hope you have racked up at least 500 miles during that time lol.
Light Green = RIght Turn Signal Solid Black = left turn signal , Yellow with Black Stripe (possibly RPM or Fuel Level, confirm your fuel sensor is same wire colour first!) , black with white stripe = Ground / Negative 12-V , Orange = Live power to dash and lights , Brown = Temp Sensor (650cc only) , Solid Yellow = Possibly lights (High Beam switch is activated by you or FLASH BUTTON) , Blue = Unsure yet , need to read again It has been a long time since i fixed wiring plugs under the dashboard, i usually fix the “Blue Side” due to water rust etc or previous owner neglects I will try to find an old cable for the all black dash and send photo (maybe Sunday or next week)
Is it the same for gt650r carbureted?
As far as i can remember but 650cc has extra wire for temperature sensor , so it is usually brown but use my pictures above to confirm cable looks the same because it is the same dashboard harness used from 125cc GT125R , Gt250R and 650r = 2005 to 2008 carb models.
using the Kawasaki clipons over the steering yoke is a very smart move , i am usually skeptical about China parts on critical parts of the bike including steering, so let us know how they handle , maybe i might get OEM kawasaki versions. As you can tell even the Korea clip ons break easy (which is a good thing sometimes as the fairings or crash bobbins will take most of the damage from the fall)
Are you going to fit lower fairings back in and fit R&G Crash Protectors on her ? – It looks very pretty in white!
Thanks for that very detailed response it will come in very handy next question is do you sell the replacement at all ? Iv seen a couple on flea bay but they have a metal end not a white pin plug ?
Send me an email, and i will see if we can hunt a new one for you for the GV as it is longer cabled (GTR bikes have a shorter travel but still fit awkwardly as not to pull the cable!)
If not, I will hunt a used one for you
Maybe not totally new, I was riding as a kid on 50cc, it was 23 years ago 😅 But first timer as a owner 😁 I find my Hyo quite well, I was so scared my first roundcross 🙈 but I handle IT quite well 😀 I know it’s the most or almost the heviest bike in 125ccs and it’s Perfect for my weight 70kg 😀 it’s so stable on the road, even due the weight the acceleration it’s very surprising 😀
180 kgs with a full tank, she is a heavy girl indeed! 🤯 but like you said, you feel “planted down” on the light, where other 125 bikes might be “too light feeling” on fast roads.
Glad you are enjoying it , make sure to give it a good service and go through everything around the bike before going on very long trips! – You can’t trust anything the previous owner says, so it is better to reset as a new one (new tyres , new brakes, new chain, new oil filter, new air filter, new motul 7100 oil recommended, etc, etc)
Anyway, @godoie here is some pictures as promised , and i changed this topic title a little bit to make it easier to find for others in future.
This is my spare cable i found in workshop.
THIS IMAGE BELOW IS FOR 3 WIRES FOR SPEED DIGITAL SENSOR!!! (The plug was cut!)
BELOW IS JUST FOR THE HEADLIGHTS (it goes to the mini harness that is on your headlight box!) (IF YOU HAVE A GTR) , it is different process if you have a GT250 Naked , GT250 Naked will have a BIGGER Plug that goes straight to the headlkight bulb!
My cable is from GTR
This is the other end , that will go to the GTR harness (if you have GT Naked Harness, then you can ignore this image!)
Hope all this information helps!
@Krishna – You could make a new topic (click here) , as your issue seems unrelated to @godoie ‘s topic here so i will have to answer your topic on a separate topic and try to include as much information as you including what caused it to die in the first place. Regards
New to bikes ? And chose Hyosung as your first bike ? = GOOD CHOICE! – I think you will learn a LOT!
Welcome to the dark side hahaha 🙂
How are you finding the experience riding the Hyosung ? It is a 125cc but it is physically bigger than most 125ccs like Yamaha YZFR125 , so it feels like you have a GS500 Suzki with nice plastics and 125cc motor!
