♠️ M77
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That is good news. Thank you, Marcel. I almost talked myself out of replacing the swingarm but if they come out easy i can reuse them. Hyosung Factory sold me some but did not post them and no refund yet. They are annyoing to communicate with. I transalted my English to Korean so they could fully understand what i think of their lame service. Will never buy from them again. I’ve been waiting and not riden since Winter – it’s almost Summer here.
Gotta becareful now sad to say “most” of these so-called Hyosung parts sites will be quick take cash but no parts or be lucky to wait a year sometimes!- Could be easier to get a used swingarm off ebay and get it powdercoated with much better paint ? Just an idea!
I assume you mean #7 and #8 ? – They just literally slide out , but sometimes may need a little bit of a shake incase it catches the bearing cage lips , these spacer tubes also help the pivot bar roll on the needle bearings easier.
Normally that area is heavily greased including the pivot bar , bearings, and spacers to avoid seizures.
Remove the fuel filter that’s inline to the T-piece and allow the pump itself to use its own strainer attached to it inside the tank. You will be reducing less stress needed to push fuel through , although it’s not a big deal as cars do this anyway but let’s eliminate that first and see if it responds better.
Then replace the spark plugs again , make sure it’s CR8E only (ignore the likes of “IX” tagged plugs as they don’t always like them) – So stick with copper CR8E (Yellow box) or “LASER Platinum” (Silver rainbow box)
Electrics, see this topic:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it’s targeting a 125cc , that’s just its younger sister but instructions are the same.
Report back what your electrical values are ? if we can be extra sure other electrics are okay, then we can move on to other bottlenecks.
Last war could be possibly a dragging clutch or clutch too worn down or cylinder compression or clearances need sorting but this is just a guess, so if you can do:
1. (Fuel) Remove the inline filter and see if fuel delivery is better for it.
2. (Air/Spark) Replace the plugs, ride on new ones. Take a picture and post the new plugs (we shall see if the cylinders are leaning out or not?)
Doesn’t hurt to check if the air filter is clogged up or put a fresh one to make it breath like new again.
3. (Spark/Electric Power) Do the electric tests mentioned above ^ & report back figures.Am sorry to slightly change the thread, but how much does putting a slip-on on affect the bike in terms of hp/torque running needing re-maps mot s or potential engine damage from running lean etc.?
What sort of slipons would cause less issues + not need a re-map?
Ive just got a 2018 gtr650 efi + mite like something a bit louder + lighter but couldnt i just cut/gut or drill some holes easily in the big black stock pipe for starters?
TIA
Lextek , MTC or BlackWidow = make sure the cans are 400mm long (like your OEM one is) and keep the baffle inside (your neighbours will hate you before the bike moans of a missing baffle lol) but it’s a vtwin, it always runs better with baffles in.
BlackWidow gets my vote. UK company and they do make road legal cans , just as Lextek or MTC does too. If not , any can that has a BSAU stamp on it is generally road legal and can’t be disputed at MOT places and engine will be fine.
Messing with your stock muffler on the 650 could be messy but unless you can take the rivets off , remove maybe 10% of what’s inside the can and close it back, it will be more throaty yes.
Here is an EU company who does OK for exhausts (personally i used them on a non-hyosung branded bike, and it was OK as long as the baffle was inside, that was 20yrs ago lol) so who knows if they improved their tech ?
https://ixil.com/en/16-hyosungAlso despite them making slip-ons for Hyosung , but no news yet on GV125-S , so your best option is to browse their page and look for a long & narrow can that’s about 400mm (long the better!) but don’t go under 350mm and should be as wide as your original one , because if its too wide (not a bad thing) you will need the bracket to extend it away from the swingarm + a 75 or 60 degree custom link pipe to connect back to your exhaust pipes. (then another link pipe, so it makes an S shape to keep the sleek look of the bike ie. [can___/—-engine]
The _ and / and — are just a simpler way i can visualize what i mean )Scorpion might be OK, there is other EU exhaust makers (usually the EU is more strict with exhausts being road legal for some countries due to Euro 4-6 laws , here in UK it’s not really a big deal unless the baffle is missing then it will fail for “exhaust too loud” unless it is designed to be loud by OEM (ie. really old harleys)
I would suggest OEM 2025 factory harley cans but they weigh too much and you loose power (adding extra weight to the bike it doesn’t need) , so you want to stay light and nimble until extra weight is reserved for a pillion or luggage use.
There is no public info on that request but where it got sheered off , measure the where it would normally be, Hyosung used different size strips on the magneto rotor but there will be a mark showing you where it was and how long /wide it is. Thickness estimated to be about as thick as a credit card (just off my head!) i have no personally measured it.
Get an EFi flywheel rotor for the Hyosung 250 and use that to measure the thickness , it will be similar to the old one. Obviously don’t use the flywheel as it’s for EFi model models.
Hope that helps!
When the lights go dimm, it means 3 things
- I know its tested but i highly bet the battery drops volts and amps as fast as you press “start” , because it’s asking to spin the starter, supply power to cdi and coils etc to spark 10,000 volts pulses to the plugs to fire up.
- Solenoid could be gone yes
- Starter Motor has gone weak (thus causing extra battery drain) – Replace it or open it to inspect starter motor bushes but drain bike oil first before removing starter motor.
Also when lights go dimm, does the dashboard go dimm too? do you hear a click ? buzzing like flies? or thud-thud ?
hello my bike is currently doing everything as you explained at the bottom, i installed a new starter motor and it started a few times but once after i forgot to put the kick stand up and now it wont start at all it’ll crank for only so long then go dim and buzz then make clicking noises and shut off it’ll turn back on if i keep holding it but it just drains alot what can i do ?
Best to make a new topic , so we can isolate your specific issues.
Quick answer = Battery, Charging System (Stator & Reg) , Poor Sparks . More of that in your own new thread and try to report back if you followed my replies to this topic also so i can avoid repeating things like if the battery is brand new and what brand it is etc.
If you see the metal unthreaded part , it should be stopping the exhaust arm from moving too far away from the spiral thread (and not touching the intake arms). In the older models , we still had to remove the cam shafts. In fact hyosung has made 2 versions of the engine one that uses a screw-top to adjust and yours is classic shim style
Like this one https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv300-valve-clearance-check-correction-guide/
I will double check later if there is another way to get to the shims without taking apart the cams away , i envy some newer engines that have a newer screw top , makes life so much easier.
This one is would do better that the one you mentioned and road legal too , i focused on cans that are least 400mm long https://www.lextekproducts.com/part/SA1
Confirm with your local fabricator to make you a short link pipe to join it to your narrower downpipes
Blackwidow remain as my personal #1 brand
https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/black-widow-silencers-239-c.asp?_=&f-SILENCERLENGTH=f-400mm&minprice=104.99&maxprice=194.99Hope that helps.
Does the shim come out if the engine can be spin until the rocker arm is at its highest point ? (This is just checking if the arm is not bent or anything)
If not , show me a video (upload to youtube => mark as “unlisted” , so it’s only found on this forum , get the share link) or a picture upload here.
If the engine you say sounds fine when it is running with no issues , i suspect there should be nothing stuck.
Take a quick look at this topic below, as i did post some clearance values:
Also , report back to this thread when you spin your engine 10x , then recheck clearance, it might change 0.05mm to 0.07mm , although let the bike cool down overnight and do it on a cold morning as heat does affect the clearances.
If the markings inside the engine look like pen-markers like the green one, that’s what Hyosung did during production, as long as nothing looks broken.
Looks like I’m going to have to split the case, drum will not rotate freely so most like something binding on it.
Before splitting the case up, spin the flywheel to see if the clutch drum rotates too ?
If you were spinning the wheel in neutral, the pistons would stay still meaning the crank doesn’t , but obviously if its in gear , it stops you rotating the wheel freely by hand
Nice purchase and welcome:
We could start with the basics:
– Tyres = Michelin or Bridgestones are best (if you could depend your life on the road, go for michelins) but obviously be very very careful in icy conditions as even cars can slide too.
– Oil Change (doesn’t matter what the last owner did) , do a fresh oil change and filter, she will thank you.
Tutorial here:[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
– Check Battery and Regulator is charging well, a bad charging system could leave you stranded in the cold, here is a topic on how to test your electrics:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Find every bolt on the bike that’s holding the fairings and replace them with stainless steel. Aluminium is no good. This makes maintenance easy next time.
Cold & Dirty season is here soon, so get ACF50 = Remove “every single connector” on the bike, and add a single “tear drop” of ACF50 in every connector on the bike, it will thank you a lot. Do not USE WD40 as it will go in flames . Just strictly ACF50
Remove your wheels and grease the axles and check bearings are good.
If you remove your Steering Yokes = Grease their bearings.
If you remove your calipers , give them a good soak of brake cleaner and a small toothbrush to clean inside the pistons. then use COPPER Grease behind the pads and copper grease on the “sliding pins for pads” . Brakes are just too important.
If possible, if you see black hoses for brakes , change them to new ones and bleed brakes again (Hyosung service manual says that any brake lines older than 4yrs need replacing)
if you see “GREY” fuel pipes under the tank , replace them all and go to your local auto shop for a fuel filter and maybe 4 meters of fuel pipe so you can also do your vacuum lines, extra pipes can be use for the tank’s overflow if its not there etc.
Tutorials here:
How to change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)
How to upgrade Fuel Lines & Filter on Hyosung GT125R GT250R (Carb Hose Diagram)
Hope this helps , let me know if I missed something you wanted to hear?
It sounds like your harness may be the one that’s shorting somewhere along the cable or a part is frayed bad causing it to cause instant shorts.
You will have to end up going through a painful process of stripping the harness down , checking every wire and then rew-wrapping the harness after you find or fix any faults you may discover. We don’t know if other parts on the bike are fried ?
Sounds like the fuse is doing its job bursting before it cooks anything attached to the harness ie. dashboard , coils, engine black box, speed sensor etc, they use 12v as soon as key turns on.
The engine black box is the most difficult to replace, so leave it disconnected. Even the starter motor relay has permanent 12v even if your keys are OFF, only the CDI + right switch handle triggers it to go and spin the starter motor , the 12V signal to the regulator is always live even if bike is OFF, regulator won’t do anything until the stator sends AC power to it and then it converts it to DC to charge the battery. Retrograding from the harness itself is rare but happens.
I would say i prefer that noise than an eerie too quiet of a motor, as that silence kills so to speak but if the rattling sounds increase with revs in tandem , it suggests:
– one of the shims is too thin (clearances too wide between the cam lobe and bucket)As the lobe presses down, and lets go ==> if the gap is too much, the bucket’s valve spring shoots it back up until meets the lobe again (almost like instantenous metalic fist bumping, if i can even describe that correctly!)
Cam Tensioner (as the hottest cylinder than the front) , this could be likely as the chain races up and down , the tensioner’s ratchet may be juddering or causing a chain rattle slightly but , you did not mention if the tensioners have changed their sounds from either front or rear or if they both sound identical ? So i will leave that for you to judge with a screwdriver on it and other side of the screwdriver on your ear.
– debris along the cam bucket and inside the shim itself, affecting final clearance figures or that the engine needs to be spun by hand a few more times ice cold to verify clearances before starting it.
Hope this helps!
Ps. Am hoping its somethin simple like u say cos am assuming a new ecu or fuel pump arent cheap?
But if it comes down to it, just a quick one can a faulty fuel pump be fixed or rebuilt easily at all?
If the pump is faulty , it won’t make a sound or it will be very muffled. A pump that’s working will make a loud whirring noise then it stops (primed and ready) by the time the dash sweeps up it’s RPM counter then back down to 0rpm.
OEM ECU will be costly yes , but knock-offs do exist on china’s Aliexpress, they are hit & miss.
This sucks , IMGUR is blocked in the UK now, so we will no longer recommend it.
https://help.imgur.com/hc/en-us/articles/41592665292443-Imgur-access-in-the-United-KingdomShall we try Flickr (Yahoo’s image host) or even make a folder in your DropBox/OneDrive/Google Drive and call it “Hyo pics” or something, upload a picture there and get the public share link to show here.
Sorry for the run-around, I am also behind on other tasks (was fixing multiple customer bikes & shipping them back) as I had a very long week but I will make sure to look out for your replies.
The site’s own image uploader will be fixed and we no longer will need to use external sites or drive-boxes (hopefully!)
Take a look under the tank (becareful as the fuel pump “port” is very fragile when disconnecting it) , then take the tank off. Look for connectors coming from the sprocket area and clean them then contact cleaner (wait to dry) then try again ?
Glad to hear the actual gearbox is still working!
No problem, take your time.
DELPHi is Hyosung’s better ECU and Delphi is used on many bikes besides Hyosung. In the past they did use Mitsubishi Japan ECU’s but because Mitsubishi is not making them anymore, there was a rough period around 2009 to 2014 where they used a Korean made ECU called Daewoo, most failures come from that particular ECU.
Ring my trade partner (oldest hyo dealer in UK) and ask them for the ECU as they may still have it on their shelf , it’s a small shop so expect a busy line but they do help when you are connected to them hopefully. They are called Startright Motorcycles (if i can ‘t get the ECU or they can’t , then i doubt anyone else in the UK supply chain will have a brand new one , leaving us to resort to dark-corners of trusting mr. unknown to buy a 2nd hand ECU on places like ebay etc but let’s hope the ECU of yours is still intact before it needs replacing.
Relays = eBay (there is a few used ones by various sellers there i am sure) , if not i can supply new ones (japanese ones).
Fuses = Either the tray will use Mini-Blade or Blade Fuses = Halfords / Any Local car shop.
When you get back, show us some pictures of your electrics so i can quote you back on this:
Am hoping its pretty simple like u say, mines a 2018 and i had to swap a big square main fuse over from 2 connectors at the back on LHS, could it be those is one the fuel pump fuse too (thats now been swapped/taken out?)
