♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Post a picture of your situation of the fuel sender, so i see how water is invading it or how bad the oring is .
Regards
Hello,
If you are checking for sparks, you should also rest the spark plug on the the cylinder head bolt (or any part of the frame that is not painted) so that you get a good ground connection. Then see if the sparks are strong or poor when cranking the bike.If you suspect the sparks are coming out of the cables when engine is in idle , you should replace the coil and HT cap.
Did you also do other checks i said above ^ ?
Yay!
Glad it’s all quickly sorted out, if simon says they are cool , i guess they are an alternative source otherwise i was about to refer you to TNorthEast or Startrights Leeds , incase i don’t have the cables you ask. I tend to keep some old ones for the ebay store.We all know not to order anything from hyospares or (scam-spares more politely!) by now and its clones.
Keep us posted and ride steady now.ah ok, I’m from Leeds originally so know start rights well. I’ll pop in next time I’m back home. thanks.
Tell them Marcel sent you, and you may speak to the actual boss to help you faster if its urgent. I know he does daily post runs .
Best of luck with the coils, i do also have a suspicion that the harness should be in the list of investigation as per my previous comments. Neutral sensor works if it says “green” on the dash.
Mind you the harness itself has mystery sensors embedded in them (hyosung calls them diodes) and there is a strange ball diode near the front call , we call that the “igniter” , to do with the overal bike sparking system, so have something “MANNOL TAPE” to retape the whole harness properly if you ever check the diodes are okay. Your meter will probably have a DIODE test function on it for the mystery sensors embedded in the harness. Hyosung hasn’t told any one how to test them , other than replacing it or replace harness.
The flat rectangular sensor that’s near rear coil section also is Neutral and rear coil. Just a heads up.
Hey,
Have you had a chance to test the stator ? Since no sparks will happen if this unit is dead. Check the resistance of the coils (3 yellow plug) and also critically the “pickup sensor”
if possible, also post a picture of the stator and your flywheel and i will confirm if they match each other.
Also while at it, under 1000 ohms or 100 ohms, test each single wire from the CDI plug to the relevant wire colour that corresponds it to rest of harness.
Ie. Blue = stator , green = stator , black with yellow line = front ignition coil, blue with white line, rear ignition coil , that’s just at the top of my head 🙂
- Side Stand Switch (bypass it) (bridge wires and protect it from rain with tape) be OCD about since hyos really hate it when water gets to the electronics
- Clutch Lever Switch (see this item here ) – don’t try to bypass it. It is there for good reason for the benefit of the gearbox too.
- Stator Magneto – > Check resistance of the pulse sensor with a meter under 200 ohms and tell us what it says
(Blue & Green Plug from the stator)
(Bike stays OFF, keys Out of ignition) - Stator Magneto -> Do the same with the 3 yellow wire plug (Pin 1 & Pin 2 = Ohms? , Pin 2 and 3 = ohms ? Pin 1 + 3 = ohms ?)
(What is it under 200 ohms? Tell us. 3 tests ^ above , 3 results . eg. 1.2 , 1.4 , 1.3 ohms = each yellow wire has its own ohm reading. it’s called a 3-Phase stator)Dead stator = No sparks will happen. So this is important to check. - Make sure regulator is disconnected (it will spark without it) but plug it back in when bike runs because it is there to “charge” the battery & provide “running” juice -> when bike starts.
- HT cap failure (common) – we use NGK to remmedy this. or measure resistance of the oem caps by themselves WiTHOUT the coil attached
(What is it under 20k ohms ?) - Ignition coil (common) , usually one of the first few mods changed on carby bikes.
Or measure their primary & secondary resistance) - CDI unit – I hope not.
- Wiring Harness – I hope not, only cross this bridge after dealing with the parts above first.
What year is the GV250 ? and show us the speedo assembly that’s on the left fork ?
One is digital , one is old gen black, one is old gen silver too (3 types were used over the years but they all fit, but not all work with every dash as every GV has seen slight revisions of their dashboards as time went on)
In my personal experience with ownership of multiple varieties (GV , GT and GTR)
I use these products all the time (plus the the bits sold at the shop section of this site, since i have to use what i preach)
- Motul 7100 , Motul 5100, Silkolene Pro 4, Silkolene Comp 4 = All in 10w60 grade or 10w50 grade. But 10w40 is fine all winter though.
Because the 125cc has a harder life, its a good idea to change oil every 1.5k miles with 2k miles being a limit.
4k on the manual is “too” optimistic because the clutch and gearbox start to get cranky/moody when oil has wanned after 2k miles. You want the transmission system silky smooth always and this means finding neutral while running won’t always be an issue. - Every bolt on the bike = Stainless or titanium, except suspension and axle bars.
It’s a must. - Use coppa slip on bolts that hold “plastics” .
- Use a “tear drop” of ACF50 on every single plug you encounter on the bike it’s a must.
- Google and buy on ebay “SUZUKI HARNESS” boot -> drop the oil cooler from its mount -> Hide the plugs from bad weather in to that suzuki boot.
- A 250 cooler helps 125ccs stay cooler. Especially faired bikes. and stops most mud trying to attack the carbs and rusting it up.
- “Any metal part” that moves (EXCEPT BRAKE DISCS) -> use Putoline GREASE on them.
- AutoGlym products are what i use to clean the bike and polish , wax etc.
It’s late but if i think of more times when my brain is a bit more engage , i’ll advise accordingly. Treat it well!
Hello , i have same bike and same problem my gd 250r is a 2017 model i swapped the baterry and it run well for almost a year now its the same cuts out unexpected. I´m wondering if its a fuel pump issue…
Clean the injectors and look at the fuel pump for any clogged debris or replace it, as sometimes it happens.
Also , check service manual and try to get Error Code from Dashboard to see if ECU stored any fault FI Error codes. This will make things easier.
You can also check / replace the relays on the bike. Fuel Pump relay can sometimes fail.Hello,
You can send me an email and I will do my best to order one in from UK trade or Germany and send it to you, i ship worldwide so its not a problem as I sell stators anyway from the shop for carb bikes. Getting a GD250 EFi stator shouldn’t be a problem 🙂
80 kmh
That is like the imfamous “can’t get past 60 mph” issue here in UK too.
I would check the following or replace;
- Ignition coil , sometimes sparks will come out of the wires (coil arcing) , or HT cap is faulty
These 2 parts are common failing OEM parts. - Spark Plugs are breaking down. (Dying)
- The Carb Slides are sticky (dirt again)
- Regulator faulty under heavy load (common), oem regulators are not great.
- Main Jets may be clogged again
(sometimes we clean carbs 2x before we are fully satisfied, so be ready to clean carb 2-3x time before engine is happy with result) - check intake pipes are not leaking air (spray carb cleaner near them)
- spray air boxes top of carb and air filter box (2 boxes, for any leaks near the joints)
It is specific.
If its GTR , use GT125R levers.GV125 levers have more curves , so may feel weird (even though will “just about” fit) . RX125 will fit.
TNorthEast, Startrights Leeds are best 2 sources for levers and real hyo Uk dealers (oldest ones even) , until i eventually stock the parts at this shop (still expanding it) , failing all that, i’ll get it for you in the trade from Doncaster.
650 brake levers won’t fit as too thick to slot inside the mounts of the 125cc brake holders.
So the starter guy couldn’t rebuild it. He can get me a brand new starter for a hyosung V2C 650S . It looks the same but he’s not sure if that is the same part as the one I need for my GV65O Aquila. Do you know if it is the same? Thanks again.
V2C 650 and GV650 are the same bike. One says Hyosung , the other uses United Motors (usa) branding (like Malaysia uses NAZA branding) but its all still Hyosung Korea.
Post the part numbers or pictures of the item if in any doubt 🙂
Hey,
Sorry about the post not appearing, i had to manually approve it (it wasn’t even spam!). I’ve now seen the reply and will like to congratulate you on the eventual house move , hope you have settled in now despite the weather being a YoYo, typical britain, so i share your frustrations.On to bikes now, it is rare for a GV display to fail reading the MPH counters. The manual dials on the left and also the central fuel gauge the digital version can both read and collect mileage. I would have only just replace the wheel sensor that’s on the fork , a new one ideally as used ones are hit and miss unless seller guarantees it works.
I am glad you managed to fix it. Please don’t bin the old cluster away , if it is no use to you, just send us a DM and i may consider purchasing it from you if we ever do another GV project restoration. Or keep in your shed for future backup, though it rarely fails.
The MOT guy may not bat an eye lid but well done for recording old and new mileage , even for your future records 👍
I hope i made sense and I have understood your replies properly , correct me if im wrong about anything you said.
Also take pics and upload here, so we can see everywhere looks good. (Engine clutch arm, cable, the levers , how you have routed them etc) It helps a lot to see what the situation is like.
Is the cable OEM or where did you get it from ?
The cable from the lever , goes under the key barrel, then it goes on the VIN section under steering, then slide it down thru a /_\ triangle section of the frame on the right side , just as the same way the throttle cable is going down to the carbs.
Make sure the “ARM” behind the engine is against the sprocket cover (this is Korea’s way) and it makes sure the clutch is fully neutral.
Then finish adjusting it near the handlebar lever to have max 4mm freeplay before it starts pulling clutch.
Please use OEM lever and OEM clutch mount. Every last chinese lever thats universal will guarantee the cable snaps. I don’t like them and another reason i don’t stock such parts.
Now i will get to follow this topic, great write ups!
Sourcing parts can be a head scratcher sometimes but glad you was able to do things locally first, so you’re on the road much sooner. Speaking of, hopefully the spark issue may be a minor thing but i trust that you are doing some electrical checks all over the bike to make sure nothing has gone amiss
That little arcon nut for the carb, trust me when i say i get more orders for that little nut than any other carb part for the bike. They are so fragile indeed.
Hell, i love how you neatly laid out all the parts for the build, i hope it wasn’t for a photo op 😉 , that’s very organized, some days my work shop is like that but when its super busy , things can be looking a little chaotic!
I remember many years ago when i first got in to Hyosungs , while i was busy scouring the earth for parts, i did come across an NZ FB page that did have the Carl Cox cup pics shared and some girl called Avalon seemed most prominent on a GD Hyosung, so that spiked my interest in GD bikes , however the UK rarely gets imports for the GD450 even! – So i ever only rode with 1 guy on GD250, what a quick light bike that was! – I still like the GT bikes for their chunkiness, i can’t help it! – So its nice know the Hyosung race scene is still going strong in your country, maybe Carl should make a UK one happen haha. I will be there all the time!
I am digressing , i’ll end to say i do like the grey bike due to its tail & solo seat style. I just need to add red lights and indicators , registration plate to make it street legal and i will be set!
Best of luck fixing the electrics!
Hi Marcel got the bike reving again ok ot was the pilot jet blocked I did what you said also seen my fuel filter was really old and not it good shape so have ordered a new one of yourself with exhaust nuts thanks again for your help loving the site very useful and informative
Bare with me please for extra 2 days , i must go and get extra nuts before packaging and will send the package to you soon. When you get an email that says “dispatched” , it means i’ve sent it to the postoffice , as i usually do with ebay orders you made with us too. Hold tight before taking exhausts off 🙂
