♠️ M77
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straight to the ground , its an overflow incase of overspill or breather for tank
as it goes to the floor MAKE SURE as the pipe dangles down doesnt touch the exhaust pipe.
A GT650 shock should be easier to get hold off in your States , than here in UK, from a local USA bike wrecker, they are a bit stronger than the 250 shocks to be fair and will make the bike sit a bit higher.
If it sits higher, anyways, not an issue. Make sure you get a GV250 side stand (dont bother with chinese stands, they WILL warp) That way a shock that sits a little higher will be thankful you used a GV250 side stand so that the bike stays tilted left than too straight up ready to tip over.
A 650 is easily most bolt in option. I’ve seen shocks with gas extensions and what not, they will either be too tall, or hits battery box or hits swingarm, etc.
I personally will be testing various shocks on my own donor GTs and GVs so i know what works best etc before i advise further. However, if you have big bank, HAGON RACING make ace suspension stuff for the 650, so you can probably get a race grade shock made for the 650 rear to fit 250 no problem.
You got this! Keep us posted, well done on the diagnosis so far
For some reason the bottom of picture wouldn’t load up.If you’re handy with a little bit of DIY skill, i think the bike will also look good (and keep a few stones or dirt anyway if it tries!) by fitting a GS500 Belly Pan or SV650 one. 😉
Hi John The GV250 is the frame same etc size as the GV125. I am 6’4″ with a 34 inside leg and size 14 feet, I find my GV a lovely fit. I did play with the back brake pedal to make it a bit lower (put a longer adjuster bolt in). Go for it, a GV250 is easy to work on and a joy to ride for the taller rider. At 950 Euros you will make money when you sell it on.
I wonder if the Aquila 125 has changed over the years, as I’ve just read a couple of reviews of newer (2020-ish) GV125’s being a bit cramped for longer legs?
The newer GV125-S as i’ve witnessed with my own eyes is definitely a little smaller than the older carby ones. It’s because it’s more like Half cruiser/Half Street naked bike = think “Bobber” style.
For fatness and comfort (dare i say) , i would go for the carby GV125 (up to 2019) and it’s GV250 siblings (up to 2019 EFi model)
However the newer GV125-S and GV300S (GV300SA) , i’ve seen people do modifications already to make the seat taller a bit , messed bars to make them higher etc, not the end of the world!
A little jealous as we in the UK about to head in to a long sucky winter, so pictures like that only motivate me to get as much autumn ride time as possible even with the family relative who rides bikes on tow with me.
Welcome , what a beauty that GV125S is!
I wholeheartedly understand the need to change the exhaust, it is the one thing i don’t like about it myself (looks wise) the chrome cannons of the older GV’s were heavy as hell but they looked nice enough and appropriate to the bike’s style (factory wise, cause not every one likes OEM looks haha)
But changing the exhaust on any EFi bike = ECU will tolerate it or it will make sure the bike runs rough until the factory exhaust is put back on. Honestly from experience with carb era GV125 specifically (not including 250s or 650s) , this is strictly GV125 Carby , a modded exhaust will either;
– Force rider to upjet the bike because more fuel is needed as bike is sending more gasses out of the pipe.
– Bike is slower. (due to using crap china ebay cans) (or even the silly slash cuts)
I am digressing… this could be separate topic for you to make in the technical zone of this forum in regards to aftermarket cans and what not. First, let’s see what the dealer does about the warranty workYou should also discuss with them about changing cans, if the say it voids it (likely will, as it’s now “uncharted” teritorry for them to see if the ECU complains or is okay with it, trail and error will be involved etc but as more gas leaves the bike , the engine leans out (leaning out isn’t good) , the injectors “have” a margin of extra bit of fuel can squirt or not (if Korea put injectors that are already at full capacity for a 125cc instead of running 650cc injectors and letting ECU control how much fuel to squirt)
Digressing! Forgive me.
I suppose if the exhaust can you want is
– same size (length and width)
– same size outlet (baffle hole is same size!)Then you may actually get away it but discuss with dealer 1st if you wish to keep the warranty. Things like spark plugs, chains, brake pads are “probably” not a warranty thing so rider is welcome to replace those things but ideally should allow a garage to do it so it goes on the records to the dealer or garage itself incase of any service updates for the bike (like oil change time) or warranty fixes (hope not)
I see the ebay version has 1 less row , not too bad , where did you did you get it from ? I may experiment with it as i usually put temp sensors and gauges near the cylinder heads (custom work) to stay paranoid lol.
Did the ebay one fit straight away ?
If the jets are 90 and 92.5 with slide needle on rich setting, with K&N air filter (K&N 6507) and Lextek OP1 exhaust muffler and Black Widow Exhaust headers
The 125 tends to pull the best (acceleration wise) , this is also assume the mixture screws of carb did not get touched.The Pilots can stay size 15 forever. When you remove DB Killer, bike runs leaner and screams louder but has a slower pull through gear , the only real gain is the top speed (maybe 1-5 mph extra at best)
The OEM Hyosung stock can (muffler) is very heavy and it is quite taxing for the 125cc (not really a problem for 25occ) but lightness is important to the 125cc indeed
If i use 92.5 and 95 on a customer bike, that would be maximum tube because of using NGK LASER plugs, they are a nice gold brown colour . Having a 250 cooler helps a lot too. You may be surprised how heavily used these 125s are in the UK (for work ride, for pleasure, and general riding to cities this is everyday)
Also i have advised some owners i work with in person to stop using E10 fuel, it is rubbish. Nothing positive about extra ethanol mix. So we use e5 and the bikes like it. (E0 would be ideal lol)
DB Killer = Remove it, and hammer the tube inside of DB killer so that “hole is smaller” (about dimensions of 10 Pence UK coin)
This means less gas leave bike
Better lower end torque (very tiny boost) but DYNO will notice.Also Jets 90 and 92.5 are most optimal . 95 and 97.5 is a lot!
Then try DYNO again 🙂
Hi, Just joined and have been reading through this topic since I seem to be facing a similar issue, for the second time. I own a GT250 EFI 2013 and a few years ago I started facing stalling and misfiring issues roughly after about 15 minutes that the bike is on. I spent may hours trying to diagnose the problem including the replacement of ht cables and plugs, ECU change, and injector cleaning. In the end the problem were the ignition coils. I started with replacing one which reduced the missing significantly but since I was still getting some misfiring I replaced the second one as well. There were no external signs that any of these were heating up and getting intermittent. For the past 2 years I have had no further issues but lately it seems the problem is starting to rear its head again though not as significantly. I am assuming it is the coils again but I am somewhat disappointed if the coils fail again after such a short period. I don’t make heavy use of this bike since I prefer my scooter for city riding.
Maybe you could make a new topic about this ? and perharps include more information about the history of the bike etc and what you did in the past to fix anything etc , and any modifications done to it etc… Do this all in a new topic and trust me if i don’t reply , someone else will and also simon on this forum is a good 250 wizard himself , even helps to also upload any video about it (you can upload to your instagram or youtube and set video to public, then share link here, if it helps)
Welcome to the forum and hope maybe one of us will help you fix the bike
While you wait, take a look at the service manual that’s on this forum and try to trick your ECU to get any stored error codes.
He also means the “black tubes” that actually connect to the spark plugs deep inside the engine but yes look for;
– Loose HT wires trying to escape the coil
– or Loose HT wire trying to escape the black tube (plug cap as it’s known as)
– Spark plug is tight in engine and is on the correct torque (max 15ft lbs on torque wench, engine is aluminium, so threads can still strip due to overtightness)Also grab a copy of fresh CR8E plugs (OEM) and use that forever, do not worry about getting “cold” type plugs etc, or adjusting the gaps of the spark plugs. There is other ways to help the bike stay a tiny bit cooler on blazing summer heat.
13.2BHP at wheel? If that’s the translation ?
What modifications were on the bike to achieve this ? This may be useful for future owners to keep an eye on this thread , it is interesting. I don’t know too many people in UK who have taken their bikes to DYNO and published results online (especially with everyone trying different mods on the bike)
25 km total, bike is brand new, but I am doubtful. Throttle cables have a bit of play, chain OK. Shop called it “engine break”, common with fuel injection, Hi Marcel, quarter inch. Will check what you mentioned. Need to know if faulty and/or the shop sold it faulty. Dangerous in traffic and jerky at low speeds, reg.this month, Steve., thanks
Just fixing your old reply as it was entered in the “tags” box instead of the main big white reply box , but i will get rid of it from future replies to make navigation easier.
Shop is trying to act funny by saving their own skin, they must comply with the warranty if they sold you the bike and it must work normally, I’ve had a brand new bike before and it never did such things and it wasn’t even a korean or jap bike.
Hello Sir
How old is the bike (total miles?)
When was its last service and specifically which oil was used on it ?
How is the brake calipers ? (2 bolts hold each caliper to the forks) (and rear holds to its carrier)
Brake cleaner inside the caliper can help and also dont forget to use some grease behind the pads to avoid pads getting stuck if they don’t slide back smoothlyHow is the chain slack ?
Sometimes a very slack chain can do this.Check the front sprocket nut isn’t loose
(Please take a pic and show us on this forum if possible)Do you also feel like there is some kind of misfiring going on ?
Or did the dealer fit wrong plugs ?
(causing them to breake down)Update us fella, i will keep an eye on this thread do not worry.
Welcome sir!
Glad you got the bike and managed to fix , i did notice the cylinder issue when i commented on the FB group (Official Club) , so that’s good.
Korea didn’t put an OEM gear indicator , but with it being 5 gears, you will definitely get used to it quickly 😉 , all my years of owning a Hyosung i never saw the need for a gear indicator dare i say!
Be sure to share pics of the bike whenever you get time , even on this link here
Happy summer riding sir , especially with the hot week this is!
I got you, give me 24hrs i will have info you need to answer your comments , and for sales on this shop, just send an email with any updated requests for parts, i can always use cheaper shipping.
If i know a source in USA, i will also link it too, if you are in a rush!
Keep an eye out for ST7 and the GV650 versions of the bikes too, to be fair , you will even come across a 125cc version than a 250cc, least with a 125cc you will have an easier time working on it, when your bike does show up again, sell it or trade it in for the GV250 of your desire
Same body = Different engines (125/250).
Then from what i have read, i say go for it and get it. If anything you will have fun restoring the Hyosung (though some days you may swear at it but efforts will pay off) , I could be biased to say get it so you can stay in this club haha.
Honestly though the GV’s most common faults tend to be the paint work on the swingarm rust and such, so cosmetic restoration is where you will spend most time unless the bike is looking very good!
Engine wise, if it sounds healthy like it’s purring like a kitten , you’re in good hands! – If it sounds like a helicopter, expect to rebuild the engine one way or another , but i hope it doesn’t come to that!
Either way, as you learn about it, the forum is here for assistance , so get it if you dare 😉 ,
The 125cc works a lot harder than let’s say a 650 Hyosung , and generally i’ve not had my hyosungs require me to do valve clearances for least 15,000 miles because
– I change the oil every 1,000 miles with strictly Motul Ester grade oil (7100 or 5100 if i can’t get 7100 quick enough)
– Change filter every oil change
– I start the bike and wait 1 minute , then slowly ride out of the property then let it idle for 10 mins.
– Ride in traffic easy then 5 mins i can use it normally.
– I keep my ear out for any strange valve chatter even the cam tensioner.
– Try not to redline it past 10k revs cause it doesn’t like 11-13k revs (red zones), it will rev and go there but you can hear the engine hates it.
– Peak power is made at 10k revs so it’s not really a concernWhat you can do to extend its life
– Change oil as per simon , as regular than what OEM manual suggests because the manual is optimistic when it comes to oil change intervals.
1500 miles seems to be a good limit in my opinion, though the manual could be in KM anyways
– Invest in a 250 oil cooler (get any from the GT250 or GV250, the 125cc will thank you a million.
– e5 fuel forever.
– I don’t know how you warm up your bike before riding to get her up to temp but maybe steal my way as inspiration/ideas if you will.0.25 seems to be the sweet mark for all exhaust valves on the 125cc , so in the future you want a shim that’s a lower number.
Eg. If my exhaust is 0.30 clearance , and i have 150 shim. I would use 140-145 shims. that should bring you back in to the 0.20s that hyosung wants for the exhaust clearances.
The rear engine runs hotter than rear but as Simon says you won’t have to worry about accelerated wear if you treat her well 🙂
