♠️ M77
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Hey,
Do you mean side pannier mounting racks that you seen commonly on the GV bikes ?
Did you take out the wrong plug under the engine ?And did you put everything back where it was exactly ? (BEFORE starting the engine ?)
Hi! I have the same problem during oil change (( but the issue is that I cant switch to 1st or 2nd (( help me pls
Hey,
Have you had a chance to go on Amazon Prime and get a compression tester and check the engine compression after it is warm? (Do what you can to help it keep running for 10mins hot) then switch it off.
Both spark plugs out.
Put the compression tool inside front engine (with a metal rod) , forget flexi hoses. use a straight metal type that comes with the compression kit.
Crank the engine full throttle for 5 seconds max.
Read the compression
Then repeat with the rear engine.
Tell us what the engines say front and rear
If we can start with the engine first , then we can move on to the carb , air system , fuel system , electric system. Bit by bit.
Keep us posted!
By any chance did you or your mechanic follow this guide to the T?
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
If the plates and springs were OEM (they would be inside original hyosung bags) , then i can also suspect clutch cable , lever , and the arm behind the engine not fully adjusted perfectly
So bike rides on new plates hard but wears them down faster (premature wear) as arm behind the rear engine seems to be slightly be pushing the plates , even though bike is in neutral.
Quality oil really matters too. If in doubt , just put Motul 7100 and new oil filter and don’t trust what oil that garage uses (not to trust their lips either)
Oil change tutorial is here[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
If you have an aftermarket clutch perch holder at your handlebars, be ready to replace it as all chinese based universal clutch lever/mounts actually snap cables or stretch them out , then alas, your clutch springs get annoyed , so you will end up redoing the whole clutch.
Changing the clutch thrust bearing is a good shout, to maintain smooth transitions when changing gear, as both inner & outer baskets spin.
If i missed something else on your bike , please let us know what else it’s doing or even pictures of your bike of anything you not sure of.
I hope my reply gave you some extra insight 🙏
How did the headlight fixes go ? Looks like you’re having a good time out with it as usual! 🤍
This is what 40 racing hyo’s look like in the Carl Cox Hyo cup in NZ at Hampton Downs. Round 2 of the 2022/2023 seasonThis IS WHAT i would love to see happen in the UK though! – I wonder what it took for Carl Cox to start the cup series over there ?
Great photo! 🤍🤍🤍
I will try to hunt them down this week in the workshop , i am 50/50 sure i probably have some laying about 🙂
Yup, as per previous comments. NGK HT caps we have will be your savior, and defo marry them with laser plugs. She will be happy afterwards for sure.
I would not buy the IX ones again to be honest nor use the OEM caps. You’re amongst the many owners who have had to replace the caps and use laser plugs , after that, the coils generally spark good. Infact , if the fuel system stays healthy and the electrics behave, you will keep the same laser plugs for 2yrs. I have personally gone three years without changing plugs. Usually when a customer drops their bike off to me, first thing i do is get rid of the caps & waterproof the overal electric system a little more. If the OEM coils are good, i leave them alone , unless i change them at the same time as replacing caps and fitting new laser plugs. However, even stock CR8E will do a better job than CR8EIX on the 125cc, just that CR Lasers burn fuel better, so that helps in winter making the 125s start sooner and warm up their cylinders quicker, the throttle is a little sharper when married with the ngk caps. the 250’s can live on stock CR8E and usually warm up a little faster anyways.I wont lie , the right side plug looks kinda sooty sooty. It should about dark brown in the middle.
The threads on the side of the plug should have about 3 to 4 lines dark and the rest clear . This suggests you could invest in Motul Factory Line Coolant, (Best one there is and i like motul products, so i may sound biased but that’s all i trust with my bikes) , this may help cool down the bike a little better than whatever the dealer put inside (not all Hyosung GV125-S efi come to UK complete, some are usually in a crate that a dealer probably has to put liquids in , battery and fit handle bars, etc things removed to fit the bike in crate boxes and inspection checks before selling it to customer, some dealers can vary their methods of doing things – In either case, if warranty is enforced, they would make sure the bike is sound before selling to you with paperwork etc.)
Thank you, and don’t worry i will sort out a better unit for you. Remember to check batter voltage idling and revving to 5k when both cylinders spark.
By the way, any chance you can show me the regulator connector plugs ? I build plug & play terminals for upgrade regulators
Like this example below
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier {Reg Rec} :: EFi Hyosung GV250 GT250R GT250
As long as i can see the regulator connector plugs i will know what to do! 👍
Get a picture of the regulator itself, and copy any part numbers written to it. And also post a second picture showing us what the plugs look like.
The regulator will say 14v idling (both cylinders need to fire first though so engine runs properly) and 15v max around 15k revs at the battery terminals.
If the reg is good, wonderful. Consider pimping the unit later on. I will know what to get based on what visuals you send me on here.
Stator tests = Your stator is fine. It’s too healthy to worry about it now.
The stator will be fine as it will be too young to have issues at this rate, if the stator was failing, the bike simply would not start whatsoever.
Also it will not produce any power to the regulator to feed 14V to the bike.Stator is multi purpose
– EFi Pulse Sensor will tell the ECU that it’s okay to start running and the ECU is constantly communicating with the Pulse Sensor of the stator.
– Charging Element – the second part of the stator will be sending AC power to the regulator so it makes DC power for battery (charge) & electronics (general running)Your bike dropping 1 cylinder will be most likely what has been on my previous comments 🙂 , Your bike is too young right now to have a fried stator.
Though, the stator may still be working fine, i’d treat it to a better regulator incase the current regulator is fishy as was the case with older hyosungs.
Infact he can test the stator himself now for his own peace of mind.
1. Bike stays off. Do not turn on the dash either.
2. Get a meter and set it to 400 ohms max. or 200 ohms max. (not 200K / 200,000)
3. Grab the stator’s “2-Pin” plug, and probe it. Both meter leads inside it. = Get ohms reading and tells us on the forum what it says and ill confirm it’s okay or not.4. Part 2……….
See the “3 Pin” Yellow Plug for the stator , right then, do it like this exactly.A. Meter wires inside Pin 1 & Pin 2 (any order) = Get ohms.
B. Meter wires inside Pin 2 & Pin 3 (any order) = Get ohms.
C. Pin 3 and Pin 1 = Get ohms.Let us know also what A.B.C says
It’s 2 stage test (since it has 2 plugs one with 2pins and one with 3 pins)
There is no need to ground the frame or anything, this is how Korea does it also
How much voltage is the stator making ? It would be best to try get both cylinders sparking first as you wouldn’t want a back cylinder getting fuel but no spark, eventually the piston rings will get funny or the engine may get hydrolocked when fuel & oil start mixing and filling up at the back pot.
Regards.
So that’s OK for the pipes you have for sale on ebay.
Yes, they fit the master cylinder and the calipers, we will dispatch soon, keep in mind of delays due to current RM strikes.
Where can I get a front master cylinder rebuild kit if they do one thanks.
They don’t exist anymore but i hope it doesn’t come to that if it works , usually its the calipers that need rebuilding in most cases.
Hi its says 1/2 on the back of the cylinder.
You will be alright, it will push 2 discs 🙂 , Keep it.
Hello Lee,
Welcome to the site! Please do not panic and set the bike on fire. I totally understand the frustration believe me i do! It is a lovely bike to be fair but, there is a general consensus that hyosungs can act strange after a blizzard of a rain situation if you notice:
– Water getting to the HT caps
– Water getting to the plug holes (older models that had missing dust covers by previous keepers taking them off)
– Water getting to the air filter, regulator plugs , and such.Korea did mitigate ways to avoid this happening but it can happen to other motorcycles though, so don’t worry your situation is easily fixable i guarantee it.
Hyosung 125’s dont really like “IX Iridium” plugs (the blue box) because they are overhyped junk. They are really good then they wane fast, after they wane, they don’t produce their peak power anymore.
So for spark plugs, it is advised to use “Laser Platinums”
See belowNGK LASER Iridium Spark Plugs x2 – Hyosung GV125-S (Injected)
These plugs can even last you 2yrs (unlimited miles) if taken care of (meaning the electric system must not give them a reason to give up the ghost, like any plug would or bad fueling system) However, the throttle based on feedback i get from other GV125-S owners is that there is no speed gains but the bike starts faster and throttle feels sharper.
Next up, which is 100000000% recommended to all GV125-S owners is to use an HT Cap with a race lead attached to it.
See product details below for deeper explanation
And also study pictures please, because it shows that the owners “KEEP” the rubber dust caps that go to the coil itself. to stop water getting in between.NGK Uprated HT Lead Spark Plug Caps (x2) – Hyosung GV125-S EFi (Injected Models from 2020)
Also NGK products for HT Caps rarely fail. Hyosung’s black caps are likely made in china. (as was the case with older bikes having HT caps made in china and they failed a lot in various ways, not just because of weather, heat was their enemy too)
Now speaking of heat, can you share the picture of the coil you purchased? was it genuine?
If you swap coils, does the back coil still get hot again ?
Lastly, as it’s important — Get a meter, check the battery is 14.5v at idling and 15V max around 5k revs.
Go under the bike, take a picture of the regulator/rectifier. If it has a part number printed on it. Copy it.
Also follow its plug under the seat, get a photo and show me.I may see about stocking up a better regulator for these bikes like i already do for the 650, 250s on the shop and the older “carb models” of 125cc , with good success. It has been an old consensus
Keep us posted
You got this!
I have the same problem , when I turn my ignition switch on and have the Killswitch on it shows cHE and when I turn the Killswitch off it goes away but my fuel pump never turns on , ever .. what could be the issue? Hyosung GT650R 2010 EFI
Have you checked there is power going to the fuel pump harness plug ?
Have you check there is power going to the fuel pump relay (4pin relay unit, usually blue or black)And try to switch headlight relay in to fuel pump relay, to see if the relay is faulty
After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
Keep us posted, we do have some progress now!
I am also praying the ECU is okay too.Simon is correct as some later 125cc have master cylinders robbed from 250 Naked. They will push 2 discs just fine.
However, please look under the master cylinder and tell us if it says 1/2 or 3/4 or 5/8 . its in big engraved writing.
I do have the splitter on ebay FYi to split lines in to 2 calipers 🙂
The big NO-NO in brakes is using chinese cylinders. They will not beat TCTC.
Otherwise , if you’re serious an OEM CBR 600 (Nissin Japan) will work but total overkill for a 125 if i am honest. I’ve never had to change the TCTC cylinders for years, they work good for the most part. The calipers themselves are good as long as the pistons and pins etc are stainless 🙂
I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know. is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
By any chance have you downloaded one of the service manuals in the techinical section of this forum and get the 650 manual that corresponds to the version of your bike (Because yours is a 2010 , you either have a daewoo or mitsubishi ecu , but its rare for a 2010 to have a delpi ecu until later years but i won’t rule it out)
The service manual does have some pages where you can try to trick the ECU to give out an error code to the dash (if the CHE does go away) or it explains further what to do when CHE is present , though , their cartoon diagrams do explain how to test other electronics with a pocket meter to be on the safe side.
What you want to do is thoroughly check every electronic part on the bike, some can be tested without the bike needing to be running , it is a tedious process , but if it’s all ruled perfectly, that would leave just the ECU or the Harness itself. I pray its not the ECU, it is a costly part on its own self!
the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
Hey, do you think it’s possible that you can grab a can of “contact cleaner” and clean the contacts of the ECU plugs and the ECU it’s self.
It may be silly but also check connections to the clutch switch , side stand switch (bypass and join wires) and the stator plugs
(do check the stator pick up coil also) and injector connections.Wait about a day for things to fully dry out unless the contact cleaner instantly evaporates away.
Not all EFI’s ((since Korea makes variations of them Delphi, Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi (rare), etc))) do this but some EFI models check the above ^ parts before trying to engage anything
Welcome Rob!
As Jim says , you have all the luck, you will get her going no worry. Keep us updated on your other topic as Simon is another good wizard 🙏
So turns out the LED was shot. Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.
Do share what you do and your results, i might just pin a separate topic you make for future owners facing the same thing. (sort of like a How To guide)
Do check the other LED’s for the voltage supplied to them and your replacement SMD’s should have the same voltage requirements. I’ve seen them go as low as 1.5v to as high as 12v for car/bike instrument clusters.
Sorted for me now Marcel thanks 
Beauties!
Thank you all 🤍🤍
