♠️ M77
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Hey, welcome!
When i was doing 520 orders for customers , they themselves and some garages used a bike jack / mini lift to rise the whole frame up. See the customer gallery images on the link below;
520 Upgrade Chain & Sprocket Kit [Conversion] :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi [Injected Models from 2019+]
Amazon usually has these types of products, sometimes called Motocross bike stand / jack up lift kit. I say Amazon because some orders from there have this thing called 1-day Prime, so you may even get it next day for urgent jobs.
I am not sure how many bike shops are in your area , but worth checking out to see if they stock it themselves and try it out?
I know you don’t like the scissor style ones, how about using Jacks to prop the bike up ?
Welcome!
Take a look at this topic i created (I will add pictures soon, next time i work on a customer GV bike) , let us know if the link below helps?
[Tutorial] How to Remove & Re-Install the GV125 Carby | GV250 AirBox
That is amazing news , i am very happy for you!
Don’t throw away anything, trust me, with EFi parts, you need all the spares you can keep and she will be with you for years to come.
If you go somewhere nice, share some pics onthe forum 😉
no code. sometimes ride the red fi light will come on . When that happens it will run normal then I’ll slow down to check code and red light go’s away so I can’t check the code. I also took the injectors out and cleaned them with carburetor cleaner and I used the battery and everything To get pull setting again it’s still kind of squirt but I don’t know if it’s dumping to much fuel or what
As long as it says F(i) not F(ONE) / F(1) on the dash you will be correct thinking the injectors will be suspicious then again, the fuel injection system also relies on the lambda sensors operating well so the ECU can meter the fuel properly and the ET sensor (engine temp sensor) so ECU decides to enrich the cylinder to cool it down a bit or not or when it gets to operating temps injectors work full time.
or the air sensors in the airbox to the throttle body (air vs fuel vs spark = happy motor)
Where you live in USA, see about a local wreckers to find a crashed 650, to buy injectors from cheap and test your theory that it is the injectors being faulty ?
I am happy you made some progress with it my fellow yorkshire man.
Do you have carb cleaner still left ? – Look at the tutorial on this forum for “Carb jet” , just follow the instructions on how best to fit the carb and airbox together etc . Then put the air filter back in.
Set the idle screw high (to about 2k revs) , then remove choke and accelerator cables off the carb while it runs.
Now reduce the idle screw to 1500 rpm.
Does the RPM needle bounce up and down (like its starving for fuel)
or
using your hand , twist the throttle at the side of the carb , and see if the revs go down fast on the dash, if the revs a very slow to climb down to 1500 rpm and settle in.
You may be looking at sooty plugs or plugs breaking down (inconsistent spark power)
or
Take your carb cleaner out as i said earlier in this reply , spray the manifolds, spray under the manifold gaps where orings sit , spray under the airbox where carb swallows the box
Do 1 step at a time and make sure to really listen for any engine sound changes , usually if you spray somewhere the revs go up or bike shuts off = indicating that particular spot you sprayed is leaking air (& subsequent vaccum loss to draw fuel out of the carb)
Since its a CV carb = it implies constant velocity (Constant Velocity) , it is not able to tolerate even a minor air leak or an airbox missing, it just runs rough.
The inlet manifolds will still last long as you will make sure they do not split up , and keep using E5 fuel forever. E10 will rot it.
If you put a new engine in (is it just the “engine” itself ?) or did you also put new parts like injectors , other electronic sensors etc?
Usually on a 650cc , there is multiple ECU’s (Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi Jap, Delphi, etc)
If your bike is Delphi = The “CHE” or “Fi” light should go away once bike is running normally.
However as Simon says , you may need to trick the ECU to find error codes as “CHE” usually impliescommunication error with the ECU , or KillSwitch assembly at handlebar, or connectors behind the ECU (even 1 single pin!) or connectors on the bike since you swapped engines , maybe one part on the bike is disconnected or not connected properly.
Also i will assume you did not change anything else (not all electronics on EFI Hyosung is backwards compatible, ie. 1 sensor works on Delphi but does not function well for Daewoo ECU) however, usually half the EFi parts are generally the same.
Bolded the words for emphasis since motor was swapped 🙂
GT125 & GT125R use engines from GV125 🙂 , even the 250cc uses GV engines.
So yes your 125GT engine is compatible with the GV125 bike 100% and they are both Carby.
Only 2020+ 125cc is EFI (injected) (GV125-S CBS)
26c! – So jealous!!!!!
Its winter here and I miss summer already , I will have to come to spain one day to be fair.
I believe my gt650r has a malfunctioning injector. Are there any compatible injectors that I can get from the local parts store
Welcome to the site, sorry that you’re having an issue with your fuel system.
I assume you have found the service manual for the EFi 650 , in this forum. Then tricked your ECU to display error code on the dash.
Did you get an error code or how did you come to this conclusion ?
Does the same issue happen if you swap injectors between front & rear cylinders ?
Quick question after receipt of my new regulator. All looks simple enough barring choosing the new location with plenty of ideas on the image gallery. Instructions say plug and play. Do I need to completely disconnect the battery before install? Cheers all.
Yes it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery as the red wire goes straight to it from your regulator plug.
I say disconnect battery because it will be a good opportunity to use contact cleaner incase water and muck have rotted the pins , then use “ACF50” inside the plug (a little bit!) , to for anti rust measures or slowing down possible metal oxidization in winter.
Most people just whack it in and ride off lol.
Take your time with it!
If you’re not sure how well your stator is doing, there is a few topics in the forum on how to test the stator (when i replied to other people’s topics lately)
A healthy stator will keep that reg active for a long time (so too matters a good battery)
Forget multi meters on the battery to test, go to a bike garage or halfords = They will test your battery for you using “LOAD METERS” (it’s this massive thing that says “YUASA” on it too. If the battery needs replacing the “LCD Glass” on their meter will say “change battery” or “battery ok” or “charging rate normal (charge system test)” etc…
I digress , sorry , i just know brutal winters are usually the harshest seasons for bikes.
That really sucks 🙁 , i hope it is fixable and you can go back to riding soon. There should be a spare crank and gearbox on my ebay (@evocrest), global shipping should be available on ebay as GSP ( GSP means ebay will collect the parcel and ship it to you instead of UPS)
Try to find a local engine in your country first so that things stay cheaper.
Good luck!
Looks really nice there, how cold is it now ? I assume its snowing bad but you live south and i am all the way up in UK , i haven’t seen snow yet lol.
If you find a spare key, send a DM to me and ill post a blank that you can go to keycutters to copy. Otherwise, you have to change barrel and fuel cap. DM me again as i have a used barrel & fuel cap with one key going for cheaps. no used pillion lock as i sold it sadly.
Still got the blanks mate? Can I dm you?
I am not sure but i can probably find out ?
Otherwise, please check out your local Morrisons or Sainsbury’s they should have a stall called Timsons Keys , and tell them you want to copy a Hyuindai Key (which the Hyosung is based off on if i remember correctly) if in a rush.
Does your bike have a “Clutch” switch at the handle bar lever ? Some GVs have it and some do not .
Get someone with you.
Tell them to hold clutch in.Then you should remove “magneto” plug on the left engine case.
Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise , to see crank is moving okay a few times.
If crank seems okay, it could be the gearbox.
Shell 97 is what we have here in UK also, VPower+ is good fuel , i actually use it all the time now.
Yes that is the website we discourage people from ordering = same guy , different domains (eu, catalogue, nz, au, etc..) , same design.
Yes i do not mind being a parts dealer for you , it shouldn’t be too difficult to ship to your country since i ship world wide anyway.
Also saggy chains and worn pivots between the gear shift assemblies can do that too.
So ,
- Grease all over the metal moving parts involved with the gear linkages. Because its a GV, add a very very thin washer under the “C-CLIP” that holds the gear foot lever at the front of the bike. it will keep it straight than being wonky.
- Check chain slack is good (off the stand) and while it is also on side stand, you want the chain also straight , use a straight ruler or laser light to check.
- Squeeze the chain with your hand, if the swing arm moves or chain carrier hub moves, then consider bearings in either swing or chain carrier hub or the rubber cushions under the sprocket carrier hub.
Just tips that have also helped me maintain smooth transitions for gear changes and neutral. Sometimes its worth making the sure the “engine ARM” behind the exhaust pipe is against the sprocket cover when in neutral , then re-adjust the clutch cable at the front handle bar lever 🙂
If cable has stretched (front lever adjuster is near max or half-way), replace cable.
Worst case is just a fresh clutch system overhaul. (everything inside the clutch basket, ie. tired springs, plates, warped metal discs etc… if its been so many miles / years with the same clutch)
Personally on my GT bikes i’ve not had a kit like that even the super rare ones made specifically for hyosung (not just a top box rack) , there is an ever rarer kit that combines top box and side metal racks to mount side panniers on it.
I only know one person in the flesh that had it was @barry on this forum, if you look for him in members section and send him a PM , he may tell you which brand made his racks.
Otherwise ,i’ve used textile “throw over” panniers that have straps that go under the pillion seat and the bags just hang on the side, the trick was getting smaller panniers so they don’t hit the exhaust aswell.
Since i own a GV, i know full well GV kits don’t fit GTs.
Make sure the “tip” goes in first, then put spring under the bottom of the tip that looks like a cup.
Then tighten bolt.
Do not start engine, yet.
Put rear of bike in a paddock stand so that back wheel is off the floor, then go on in neutral.
Try to shift gears, if 1st gear is selected, the wheel wont spin, then it should mean gearbox is engaged, go back in neutral spin the spin, then stop, shift to “2nd gear” after holding in clutch lever.
Hope this helps and good luck, i hope no damage was done to the gearbox as it would suck to strip the engine down.
Hey,
Welcome to the website! It’s good to have you and yes go get the bike!
Because it is a carb version, you will be better with it because there is less worry about “million EFi Injected electrics” all over the bike. All you do is keep the carbs clean , upgrade stator & reg with good kits (not chinese kits!) , good brakes, tyres etc and it is a happy bunny.
Remember because it is a carb bike, (even EFi is included) make sure to always use 95 Fuel (we call them E5 here in UK) , do not use “E10” fuel because it has no benefit and it is the devils juice that will eventually give bikes hell (no pun intended)
Parts are okay at the moment as i have no trouble buying parts for 650 bikes when i fix them for customers here in UK , but i also try to offer some 650 parts in the shop for “common” maintenance tasks. However i can usually get any part from my supply chain.
If you see a 650 in your country for wreck/salvage/scrap yard – Buy it and you may have a donor bike for yourself if you need future backup spares etc…
Do not buy parts from sites like Hyosung “Spares / EU / NZ / Catalog” etc (it has blue & white design) , too many people have problems with those sites.
(that’s why this site has a dark design, so we have nothing to do with them, i do not do business with them anyway)
Hope this helps!
Make sure to go see the bike and ask the previous owner of any issues to fix before you can ride it but hopefully it has no issues and good luck!
