♠️ M77
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Looks great!
If the headlight is able to be opened, you can replace normal bulb with OSRAM NIGHTBREAKER LASER or PHILIPS XTREME VISION MOTO for bikes if you ride in the dark , the LED’s inside your headlight are for daytime riding anyway.
I like those saddlebags , i will check them out. I tend to use SHAD EU products including tank bag I have now.
Motul 300V is recommended oil. Motul 7100 is also good. I trust these oils more than other brands i’ve tried for more than 20 years.
Motul Cool Factory Line (is the best coolant i have used) , do this when you service the radiator next time. I think it should be 2 years replacement interval (last time i checked!)
Check your coils for resistance and see if your HT Caps are arc-ing (loose sparks out of the plug) This says its for 125GT but ignore the title, you want to use it as a guide to check resistance of your coils and the stator unit too.
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/rectifier/embed/#?secret=XRZVPeFVeD#?secret=NKSVOrwuC3 I once had to replace everything on a 2012 DAEWOO model GV250 and the customer was also stumped, it turned out, despite the stator working, it was the root cause. How? The resistance was OK for the pulse sensor and stator was charging 70v strong around 4k revs , but as engine got hotter and hotter, it started to die down. We replaced the stator unit , and it was fine since then Also the Daewoo ECU is my most frustrating ECU to work on compared to Delphi or Sentec ones , they absolutely want every single connector on the plug to be free of rust , oxidization, dirt etc. Contact Cleaner is advised. Do not put liquids on the ECU itself = Use compressed air only. Just the ECU area you have to be extra caution, it only takes 1 wire or 1 pin to ruin the whole thing for good and it is near impossible to get a new Daewoo ECU. I would deal with the TPS later, as its already idling at 1.5k rpm, although just a minor tweak should make her idle at 1800 rpm (Brand new GV’s idle at 1800rpm straight from the factory, it was the carb models that idle’d lower around 1.5K rpm as mandated by the Hyosung service manual) Also it helps to get fresh plugs again (CR8E Yellow or LASER Rainbow plugs only) – They don’t like “IX Iridium” plugs. Also if it has stock plug caps, throw them away, they always let us down , and get yourself NGK caps. Very recommended. If not , use SV650 1999 caps (ensure your engine hole can still be covered to stop dirt or water going to your plugs!) and use SV650 1999 coils (they are bigger) but made by Mitsubish Japan (get OEM ones) , they may be big, so expect to make room inside your plastic cover under the tank for them. However, if your HANKUK Korea coils are OK, leave them there and just focus on the HT caps. Generally when the plugs and caps go bad , it takes out the coil with it! Check this out too:
Hey good morning! What NGK caps were you referring to? Do you have a link to these? That would greatly help me out, tysm!
They are on this store, so you can see what they look like, and you also tend to find them on most bike garages locally if it is urgent, just screenshot the ones you see as they fit the Hyosung GV
When i heard the video of the bike roaring to life, i was blown away and it is still using ans OEM exhaust, at this point i can 100% say Hyosung did a good replacing that huge bazooka exhaust from previous models to now using twin stylish pipes , i can see they have some bulk in in them to reduce the growling noise! (more noise is good for me but i go deaf faster haha!)
It looks very stylish without changing its original looks too much , I don’t know what else i would change in terms of visual appears , the dashboard with RPM meter was needed 20 years ago! – But hey . they finally did it!
Do you have plans to change anything outside ? – Tail Panniers and Top Box ? I see you got the rack fitted on the rear of the bike
Hi Marcel, It has 90mm jets in the front and 92.5mm jets in the rear.It worked perfectly with the BMC system. But now with the Turbo Kit GP (without a catalytic converter), I have the feeling it’s need more fuel. BR Hakan
Use new CR8E plugs or fully clean your old ones.
Then post 4 pictures here:
2x Front = Side view and center view
Same with rear 2xThen we see if your bike is rich or not
And try this below:
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Where can I buy one
Look around your local garages for SV650 tunners , they will fabricate or get SV parts to retrofit to your GV and get it certified if your insurance requires it. SV650 and GV650 are different but distant cousins , so it wouldn’t be too much work (hopefully) for your local garage to do it & put it on a dyno to see how much torque its making & HP. Here in UK there limit is about 46 HP for restrictions to qualify, you may have to check your local laws.
thank you. do you know where i can find a restiction plate
You will have to take apart your air box , then look around your throttle area for the restrictions that may be placed.
What if i just revert it back to normal would that be okay? Or should i try inline fuse.
It’s up to you. I do it myself , its just a primitive way to “fast charge” a battery (if i can even say that!) and ensure that the battery still gets the 13.5-14v it wants before the main harness sends it. Inline fuse is needed, incase for whatever reason , the regulator pops, it should blow the inline fuse AND your main bike fuse before it cooks the rest of the bike. Whatever CC hyosung, regulators from China/ ($10 ones) or OEM korea (the tiny silver ones) are its enemy. If you must use an OEM regulator , try to get the updated one (its not perfect , but miles better than the teeny silver ones Hyosung used errornously early on)
Updated one : 32800HN9150
Sometimes it will be BLACK without the extra pig tail harness , either way it will have a part number on it.
If not, get an ElectroSport one (USA) , they have their own website.
If yours is charging well, then ignore this and just get a volt meter to keep a good eye on it 🙂
While i am not in AU , so i am not too familar how they restrict it down there. Here in the UK, they just restrict the throttle bodies so that you can’t do a full throttle twist , usually there is a stopper welded that limits how much the intake opens up. You may have to look at yours to see if that was similar.
GV650 ECU for GV650 only. As GT bikes have their own harness that matches the ECU it comes with and may have 1 or 2 extra sensors more than the GV.
As yours is a DAEWOO or (rarely a Mitsubishi) ECU , you’re locked down to that specific ECU to ensure compatibility (not expecting issues putting a wrong a ECU) – Though some people have tried to shoehorn a GT ECU in to a GV, it was hit / miss . GT650 would also have LAMS done in your country if that was the case too, which leaves us to look at the throttle bodies for restrictions applied.
Tacho = You can study the wiring diagrams uploaded on this site via its service manuals , look for a wire that says TACHO Signal, then get another “standalone” RPM reader , mount it to the handlebar if possible as an additional gauge. Tap in to that aformentioned wire. That’s how I would try to do it personally.
Okay so put a inline fuse on the spliced red wire, attach red to battery and black. Roger i will try that then?
Yes , that’s correct
It was probably done to help the regulator add more juice in the extra lines towards the battery itself before the main-harness feeds it.
The main harness has a red wire from the regulator , that trickles down to the fuse box and then the red wire starts going to the battery and various other places for +12V supply , sometimes it will run to the front of the bike, and then orange wire takes over as the “Switched 12+v” (for when the key is turned on , that orange wire gets active etc.
So i would advise to add an inline-fuse at the END of the red spliced wire –> put a 15A fuse there (but 10A is OK too just for the regulator) –> Then connect red to battery and black to battery.
If you have other pictures just to confirm the connection between the stator plugs and harness looks good (the stator can easily send 90V AC x3 towards the reg and you want the plugs to not have oxidization issues or rust as resistance may go up = extra heat & a soon fried harness!) , feel free to post them. It is a sigh of relief image uploads are working, so now we can see what’s happening!
Correct me if i am wrong on anything i said regarding your bike.
Can you be able to post pictures now please (I have fixed the image uploader on the site)
So we can see the damage if possible and I would like to also find out myself if i can still get them but i really hope the cables are OK and it’s just something that went loose , ie. a nut or some kind of retainer/stopper near the throttle body.
But let us know.
If it is an emergency , go to Amazon right now & Select PRIME Next Day, get a “throttle repair” kit (universal type) , only if the cables have actually snapped. You can still keep the black lining , just replace the steel wire inside that’s all.
I’ll try one of your honda replacements if you need me to test. What’s the best way of getting payment to you?
Yes, but 2 of them already are gone, so we just have to order another one. It’s a gamble on our end too , but hey sometimes trial & error makes the shop trusted by other garages too.
Can’t keep depending on official importers anymore, there is hundreds of GVs on UK roads as i said before and no one wants to wait weeks for local dealer to replace a part for them.contact us here to discuss any orders privately:
That’s a gamble , as Hyosung gets its switches made by company called LAFANSAN (“LS”logos on your switch) – LS also make some of Hyosung’s electrics like stators & flywheels , CDI units for carb model since 2012 (they mould the switches to fit your GV-S Clutch Mounts and Brake Mounts) , our own testing is from a Honda this time but currently will try with another rider also before going public and stocking it.
Your lexxy switch could be a gamble but maybe a temp fix to keep you going. keep us posted and stay safe on the ice!
OEM size is 87.5 & 90
So your upgrade is 90 & 92.5 = no need to use “95” . Leave it there.
95 is for 250cc pistons, otherwise its too much fuel for aa 125cc, so your plugs will be too rich.
Can order one for you but likely will mean you get to try a new aftermarket version we are looking to stock-up soon, so we don’t always depend on UK dealers as they can’t even keep up, there is hundreds of GVs on the road . Just send us an email.
I have replaced it a few times before and it was never an issue, i just used a deep socket (i think 13mm or 14mm i can’t remember hex size off my head now) and carefully turned left , because i know the front head gets all kinds of dirt in the rain sometimes turns things to rust like the intake pipe bolts.
Remove the airbox and remove the intake pipes (carefully) (Replace the O-Rings!)
Use a tiny drill , and drill it out (counterclockwise) on a slow rotation.
Because deep there is an oil chamber, so i am afraid to caution you to becareful, if particles fall inside or broken parts = I would remove the engine head & re-install it.
If you start a bike with particles inside the oil flow chambers (where your sensor is going) , it will travel and block smaller jets inside the engine , there is a few high & low pressure jets inside the engine that spray oil everywhere lubricate the motor.
So whatever you do , i would do it with extreme caution – stupid thing is made of brass , if it was steel , we could weld a strong bolt to it. then turn left to loosen it out of the engine.
Try 0.5v as a base and up to 4.8V is OK , let it warm up for a bit so the ECU learns the new setting , it will talk to your idle speed controller to set a stable idle.
Hyosung makes a lot of manuals but sometimes don’t always include every little detail (some manuals have more details than others), but the 650cc manual isn’t too far off (Both 650 and 250cc used DAEWOO ECU’s on the early models but obviously a 650cc ecu won’t work on yours)
I never paid attention to the OEM values as if a TPS went, I just replaced it and used a good judgement and set it.
Stator likely the culprit? If its not recognized by the ECU, the sparks won’t happen and also the ECU primes the pump directly.
Also look at your clutch switch (don’t bypass it as fake neutrals can happen) , neutral sensor ? , Side Stand Switch (bypassing it is OK as it is a very annoying object) = These would stop the ECU priming the pump or sending sparks.
If not, you will have to strip the bike down and carefully go through the entire harness making sure there is no dead circuits from one end to the other end of each wire.
Contact Cleaner helps keep the connectors in good condition with air compresor jets on the wire connectors.
ECU = Just blow air and don’t put any liquids on it.
Hopefully we get somewhere?
Also check your RO-SENSOR (Tip Over Sensor) = If bike can’t sense it or thinks you fell down, it will cut sparks off.
This PDF by another member helps go in more detail also:
While the harness is apart , get a meter and use the service manual on this forum to test every sensor connected to the bike (ie. if something says 0 ohms where the manual wants 20 ohms, that object is either faulty or connectors are bad/too oxidized)
Kill Switch Plug (where you press start) is also crucial, make sure that right handle bar switch cluster is fully cleaned out including the contacts inside the switch rockers and the actual black plug under the airbox
It is not possible, unless you have a speed sensor connected to something that makes it spin for days and days (not a good idea) , the dash will think you’re riding the whole globe so mileage for that will rack up.
If not, you can get identical dash that has a higher mileage or close to it then tell your MOT guy before he logs it on the next MOT. Take pictures as evidence (before & after) , then if the bike ever gets sold, tell the owner the true mileage vs what the dash says as you accumulate further miles.
Hey Robert!
Welcome and yes the drain plug vs the gearbox plug. I wish the gearbox plug had a warning engraved under the casing to say “do not open this unless rebuilding gearbox!” but we would still miss it if the underside is very mucky!
Did you also test the rest of your electronics to make sure they are all up to date ? See the topic below:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says GT125 , that’s its younger carb based sister but principle is the same.
Make a new topic with your findings ie…. “Electric tests on a GV250 EFi” , and we shall comment to see if you’re in good hands. There is also a service manual in this forum too for the EFi Gv250 too. It goes in to much more detail on how to test various sensors , so you’re caught out on a long trip , because a previous owner was neglectful towards it.
It’s a lot! – but take your time, do it bit by bit.
Forgive me if you can’t post pictures , I am fighting some bugs under the hood until you see a nice yellow-green button that says “Add Media / Upload Pictures” , i don’t want the site to be too technical to browse around. So i will be simplifying a lot of it & consolidating the forum , so its more unified.
Stay safe out there and 76 is a nice age , keep riding sir and stay warm this winter!
If i may ? Don’t use or fit heated grips , rubbish stuff… and very taxing on the stators and regulators. (If you replace a regulator, replace the stator unless the stator proves to be in good spec on your multi meter readings! – very crucial) — Go on Google and look for “KIES HEATED APPAREL” very good brand, they have heated gloves, vest , shoes , etc …. and they use their own power-brick which goes in your pocket. You can walk around feeling nice and warm , and charge the power brick at home after your trip.
Now that leaves the bike’s stator (already at max capacity) to feed the regulator and various & various(!) sensors scattered under the hood.
Regards
😉
