Regulator plug wiring
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Bike Model = : 2008 GT250R Carbureted model
Hi all, so i have bought a wiring loom, cdi and starter relay plus stator and regulator for my bike just recently. I install everything but the rectifier plug is different from my previous loom the black wire and the red wire are spliced so theres 2 extra red and black wires where I’m unsure where they go or why they might of done it.
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It was probably done to help the regulator add more juice in the extra lines towards the battery itself before the main-harness feeds it.
The main harness has a red wire from the regulator , that trickles down to the fuse box and then the red wire starts going to the battery and various other places for +12V supply , sometimes it will run to the front of the bike, and then orange wire takes over as the “Switched 12+v” (for when the key is turned on , that orange wire gets active etc.
So i would advise to add an inline-fuse at the END of the red spliced wire –> put a 15A fuse there (but 10A is OK too just for the regulator) –> Then connect red to battery and black to battery.
If you have other pictures just to confirm the connection between the stator plugs and harness looks good (the stator can easily send 90V AC x3 towards the reg and you want the plugs to not have oxidization issues or rust as resistance may go up = extra heat & a soon fried harness!) , feel free to post them. It is a sigh of relief image uploads are working, so now we can see what’s happening!
Correct me if i am wrong on anything i said regarding your bike.
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Okay so put a inline fuse on the spliced red wire, attach red to battery and black. Roger i will try that then?
Yes , that’s correct
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What if i just revert it back to normal would that be okay? Or should i try inline fuse.
It’s up to you. I do it myself , its just a primitive way to “fast charge” a battery (if i can even say that!) and ensure that the battery still gets the 13.5-14v it wants before the main harness sends it. Inline fuse is needed, incase for whatever reason , the regulator pops, it should blow the inline fuse AND your main bike fuse before it cooks the rest of the bike. Whatever CC hyosung, regulators from China/ ($10 ones) or OEM korea (the tiny silver ones) are its enemy. If you must use an OEM regulator , try to get the updated one (its not perfect , but miles better than the teeny silver ones Hyosung used errornously early on)
Updated one : 32800HN9150
Sometimes it will be BLACK without the extra pig tail harness , either way it will have a part number on it.
If not, get an ElectroSport one (USA) , they have their own website.
If yours is charging well, then ignore this and just get a volt meter to keep a good eye on it 🙂
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