♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
As per Simon ^
Also wanted to ask if your bike is EFi & if so , what year and anything has changed over years (either replacing or upgrading)
If its a carb model , go with what Simon said (Me personally would look at the carb first, assuming it’s not because the coils/caps/reg-rec got hot) (Some older 650s were bad for eating their regs but not their fault, as Hankuk didn’t do a great job with making them for Hyosung but sorry to digress)
Keep us posted!
Welcome!
We do have a fair few on here from the North that’s for sure , it’s good to have you and i hope the 650 is treating you well. They are nice vtwins!
In terms of luggage, that’s a hard sell as there is so many variations on amazon now days we would ask:
– Does it matter that needs to be soft or hard?
– Does it need to have a small capacity (can fit maybe 3-6x stella cans in one size)
or we talking extendable ones that can likely fit half the house if they dared ? It deepends on how much you want to carry on the bike when you go away ?Marcel, am I right that the carbs on the 125 are the same as my 250, apart from jets?
Factory 250cc carbs have pre-fitted larger ofrices (whatever is gold inside or has a hole, will be bigger slightly for ease as per service manual)
It can run on 125cc carbs with bigger jets and some tuning.
[redacted] that’s my email mate, but unfortunately I don’t have the old handle bar anymore
Sorry use this link below
Had to remove your email from public view to respect your privacy 🙂
That’s the “front exhaust” cam, i literally just had to order a cam for a customer in the US too! And it is shortly on its way to him because my stock was low (only had rear engine exhaust cam as it doesn’t fit the front. Also had to order him cam tensioners as he had the “bad batch” that korea recalled around 2006-2008
They released updated cam tensioners.
So if need be, just send me an email and i will get you a tensioner (updated version) and a cam shaft for you?
Sorry i saw this post late and no i am not made, you should be mad at the last owners that didn’t look after it well.
I’m looking for a right handle bar for my GT125R 2013, does anybody have one or know where I can get one from? Thanks
Send me an email. I have loads of them
Also , send us your old one too (including the holder that goes in the fork), we literally rebuild them with brand new bars handmade here in yorkshire soil 🙂The Center Stand itself has a “hook” for the spring , that is for one end.
The other end of the spring hooks on the chassis as shown on the arrow below
I’ve tried that and it’s now up and running thank you for your help
Thanks for not giving up on her. Hey Warmer season is officially here, so go on a long date with her somewhere in the countryside 🙂
It doesnt drink wine but a good drink of E5 is all it needs. Not the E10 (never)
If you see anything or if anyone has one they’d be willing to sell (or give me, pahaha kinda wishing with that one but still worth a shot
) are you able to send me the links or send them my way? ThanksContact MotoGB UK as they should probably still have an unregistered new bike or Rochdale Robbinsons
Or Startright Leeds (oldest hyo dealer) and tell them Marcel sent you, they will get straight to the point 😉
GV Rear Axle should be 22mm and 21mm nut , but also get 20mm and 23mm as Korea did change the axles even on their bigger GV bikes.
Torque Specs for rear axle bar = About 60-70ft lbs max (Use 50-60ft lbs & double check its safe) use online converters of FT LBS TO NM if your torque wench doesn’t show FT LBS markings.
If you find a mint old gen with its own grey engine and it has good compressio (get proof numbers) and valves have been treated well etc… all the usually deep service jobs to the engine as per korea’s rules etc , go for that one instead. It may have multiple owners over its life , so as with any 2nd hand bike, do every check you can do and if in doubt service the engine fully and start afresh.
Unless you find a bargain of a new shape unregistered bike and get it registered (tricky process sometimes!) , you have scored a brand new bike. You become day 1 owner.
Both GT125R (05-2012) to GT125RC (new shape models circa 2013/2014-2022) are all carb models.
In a nut shell
- Same Engine. Same Speed.
- Newer Model has smaller flywheel & custom made by Korea (it requires specific stators)
- Regulators = Old Gen has smaller & New Reg a bit bigger = For 125cc it is the 2nd annoying electric object after the side stand switch.
- RC = All new harness , not backwards compatible with old gen clocks or old gen harness
- RC = Dash has white face dials and orange LCD/White LCD (Old Gen = Jet Black clocks all over with GREEN Letters)
- RC = Rear Subframe is slimmer, only accepts new gen plastics and new gen seats.
- RC & Old Gen = Both front frames have the same mounting points for headlight cages ( you can use old or new face )
- RC Face = Accepts only diamond shape headlight & has its own brackets to link to the lower panels (doesn’t accept old gen brackets)
- RC Lower Panels vs Old Gen Lower Panels (the big ones hiding the engine) == They are identical
- RC Engine = Slightly slower (82mph indicated brand new)
- Old Gen Engine = Slightly more beefier , Grey Colour, has BIG DADDY style cam tensioners behind each engine = 88 max indicated (78-82 gps- ish…. )
- Old vs RC = Same carbs since 2005
- Same Fuel Pump
- RC = Has weaker KYB Shock. Use old Gen shock. it is much better built.
- Old Gen = Swingarm paint survives a little better but both bikes will love you if you get them a hugger and also get their swingarms powdercoated. Paint wise, the swingarms are the weakest but then again , wettest area on bike too! 🤐
- RC Engine = Does not tolerate bad mods or weak batteries / reg or fouling plugs or carbs = It will refuse to start or take ages cranking… Meticulous thing it is…
- Old Gen Engine = Doesn’t like bad behavior from mechanics you give her to , but it will “try to start” and get you home but will be in a mood the next day.
- Both Engines have 8 valves and they like their clearances checked every 4k miles as per korea or they actually force themselves to drop the overall top speed & they accelerate slower.
- Both are big girls, they like stronger 520 chain kits, less chance of snapping as 428 chains stretch easy (cost cutting for mass produced bike that’s all as a good 520 costs more than 428)
- Again both big girls, make sure clutch is good or pimp out 🙂 (some owners ignore this and 20,000 miles later one of their plates have popped!)
If you do change your mind, we do have intake pipes for sale on ebay , just send us an email about it
Otherwise shame to see it go away from you , just as spring season is officially here now!
Hmmm,
Any history books or documents from previous owner to show what work has been done to it etc ?
Also is the warranty still active ? If so, you should have papers for it so that the original shop that sold it can get replacements for free as it’s not your fault the gauge is acting funny , it should not be acting funny as it’s Korea’s newest model (literally as they just stopped making the older carb versions of the Gv125 bikes)
Yes you can on the “Buy & Sell” section for sure but don’t expose your true address or contact info, so ofcourse any potential buyers will have to PM you for more.
But pictures of parts are all welcome 👍
Thanks, Marcel. I will try to contact “Alan M”. Kind regards.
He has replied but it went to my email (noreply@hyoriders is also used for notifications) , so let him know to send you a message through website instead 🙂
Hey,
Check this topic below for my recent replies.Then come back here to your topic and let us know steps you took and what’s its doing etc… You can go in as much detail as you like, i will understand do not worry.
It should be neutral switch.
In the past people thought cutting the green wire was to cheat the CDI to gain more power , absolute nonsense it was.
Your 125cc will have a 2PIN plug for the Neutral Sensor under the sprocket…..but follow me here…
- The Plug is 2Pins (black colour) but only the “Blue” wire is coming from the neutral sensor itself.
This is NORMAL. No cause for concern. Korea did this. As the 125cc did not need it especially for UK models. - Your harness itself , will have the “Female Plug” to join your neutral sensor
The female will have 2 wires (Green and Blue!)
Green is not needed. - Sometimes it was a common occurance in the past bikes actually had 2pin Neutral Sensors from Korea (with both wires) (carb models)
Fuel Injected models of the bigger bikes (650/250) have always had 2pin plugs with both wires both ways (sensor & harness)
Make sure your plug and CDI and harness do not expose the wires as the weather is not forgiving, and hyosungs generally don’t like water invasions on electrics , it is their weakness.
I’ve changed the fuel pump and the tank tap, I have a little bit of fuel in my fuel filter but it’s still not starting
When you crank the bike , hold the button for 5 seconds max. Then wait 10-20 seconds for starter motor to cool down. Then do it again.
Do NOT twist throttle yet , you want the engine to draw more fuel in to the filter that’s why.
Still struggling to start?
Get someone first to lift your tank and “hold it” nicely , do not disconnect pipes or anything like that , and they must not pull the tank , just lift it nicely off its cushions and tilt it towards the back
Now you can see your airbox
Get to halfords ===> Buy “YELLOW” colour only BRADEX EASY START can.
Spray crazy amounts of it (yes go crazy with it) ===> in to the air filter ….
Now start your bike with full choke.
While starting it , you have 5 seconds to twist the throttle up & down a million times (how fast can you twist up and down?)
If it has spark, it will scream to life and the choke system will try to enrich the bike and keep it at 4k revs
After 2mins of 4k revs, slowly reduce the choke. And it should start to idle at 1500 rpm (1,000-1,2000 rpm ICE cold is OK!)
Wait 10 mins max (in this current weather before riding) , the engine should be warm and oil is hot circulating now , revs will go to 1500rpm by themselves.
Hope i made sense ?
