♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
but i dont have any legit EU sellers so i have to deal with the import and tax fees. plus its hard to know what after-market parts fit on the Hyosungs… i have been wanting new leavers and such, but its hard to know if they are compatible.
I know since leaving the EU , the UK export system is a bit crazy lol , but if we can use DDP, we will do it. Otherwise most EU countries i ship to seem to pay low taxes for DDU parcels.
Levers = Send a picture of your master cylinder, so that i can see how thick your lever is (especially when it goes inside the master cylinder) , that will confirm if i can get levers to fit inside the master cylinder
For now, though, are you able to help me find aftermarket’s?
Aftermarket carb ? It’s difficult and the very last thing you want is a chinese clone-twin carb , it just never runs right. In fact you will be frustrated the instant you acquire such things. I can however try to get you mikuni bodies if the bodies are destroyed but internal mikuni parts i should have most on the store but i can get what’s not listed in most cases if i can!
I may have a new trick with intake pipes from another bike i will try to test and will post pictures about it on the forum but for now , the donor GV seems okay, it will be taken apart in a few weeks then i will experiment 🙂
OMG! 😢 I really do hope you’re okay and there is no further damage to your organs. And please get a lawyer and sue the driver for personal grievances too
And his insurance should buy a new Duke. I really really hate idiots like that on the road 😒, hence we all have to stay extra vigilant these days.Glad you’re still alive though!
12KG CM2 is usually the limit and normal is around 14-16kg cm2
However i can attest that i’ve tested a Hyosung 125cc that had 100 PSi in the rear and 125 psi at the front and this was hot.
The bike started in a bad mood, but once it got going, it was idling easy at 1k revs , then gets to 1800 rpm (because its a carb model and UK is cold as hell) , however due to low PSi its top speed and acceleration wasn’t good.
So if you’re 100 PSI cold, you should be able to start it and if it does and gets hot, it should rise up.
Normally 175 psi each cylinder is a very good top end.
I have no idea how much you have replaced on this bike (assuming OEM parts) other than what you have said on this forum already, then I pray we don’t have to find a GV250 DAEWOO ECU. (I mean it’s sparking but Fi light stays on? )
I know on a GT bike on DELPHI system, it comes on, then goes away once it starts running.
Have you had the chance to get it running and idling? If yes….
- Then grab your meter , switch to 20V DC
- Go to the battery and see what the idle voltage is at the battery
- Then rev up to 5k revs max and see what the voltage is at the battery
Ie.
Idle 14.1V // 5K revs 14.6VThen also check your charging to system while it’s running to see the output of the stator (Under 100V AC not DC) , in all 3 yellow lines.
Sometimes….
- It can just be the case the starter motor is starting to wane
- Flywheel Sprocket (Sprocket that is behind the crank rotor drum) may have lost a tooth or 2, hence slower starting/slower cranking (Have a visual look after you drain oil 1st) – I hope it is OK!
- Starter Motor Relay = Yup , very common, sometimes it’s this thing that’s slowing down the start up process.
- Because you have an EFi, your battery may be too low or too weak (meaning it’s loosing charge too easily if a starter motor is cranking while fuel pump primes and all other EFi electronics start to tax the battery to start
- I would get a fresh battery and make sure it is a YUASA YTX 14BS , I recommend the battery whenever i deal with customers here in UK. batteries like Powerline are just pure junk. VARTA (German) , UNIBATT are also my favs if i can’t get YUASAs.
I hope this info helps but keep us posted and I will digress further if need be 🙂
Welcome sir!
I’ve seen people on foreign forums even using “push bike inner” rubber tube and wrapping the inlet around with it.
We do repair intake pipes but in reality my cnc guy does all that and he has his own secretive ways but sometimes some boots are difficult beyond economic repair as they just fall apart , this doesnt help when people are using E10 fuel. Not just hyosungs.
So we’re slowly not going to bother with that and try to make metal versions (he does cnc stuff for this shop) so i trust him, it will be half-metal and half rubber because the rubber potion has a notch inside to hold the carb down and sit firmly in the grooves. I am digressing.
I would say what you’re doing may be a temp fix until a better set comes along , but there is also the issue of the “glues, epoxies , etc” being safe for high heat , constant flow of petrol down them from the carbs , etc …. EPDM Rubber has a funny meaning for a reason “Extremely Problematic Durable Material” lol
Also the bike tube thing seems to be what others do (not just hyosungs) until a nice set of intakes come along.
Wow , i’ve never seen that before! – That must be some really really bad quality taiwanese pads or something bad like a bad batch made from another brake pad company.
You got lucky!
If the Hyosung 650 gets tuned right, it will beat the Sv650 , (funny cause they use similar motors but not the same at all!) = Suggests that SV & GT & GV were made near the same plant lol.
GT/GV = Prettier looking by asian standards but the Suzuki do have their own bikes that also look good!
I’ve had a rieju (fully spanish made) , kawasaki and Suzuki GS500 bikes but the hyos have & still are the longest brand i’ve kept, i must like them haha. I’ve not really desired to jump on to the likes of the R1 Yamahas and what not , but i do like their old style R6 bikes.
Honestly, call me old school, i’ve grown to like the looks of the hyos and yet if someone shows me a 2022 bike of another make , i’m not too keen on it.
Do you want more power ? Otherwise the 250 seems zippy enough for you ?
Stay in Hyosung so you can’t be one of the “few chosen” to be on dark side , than a common sea wave of yamaha riders.
Excuse my grammar above ( hyperactive fingers on the keyboard sometimes!)
Hmm i should have further advise once you come back and upload some pictures on this forum topic, so i can see your inventions under the bike and also damage of the carb , maybe it could be possible i can sell body parts of it.
Regards.
I bought a GT250N from 2016 in november and loving it. but i have some small issues.
-
I Have noticed that the dash sometimes flicker and turn white (no information on the display) when turning the ignition and needing to be turned off and on again for it to work.
Ignition Key can be faulty or funny when you turn the key the contacts inside the ignition block don’t always touch, this happens when the bike has been sitting in a shed for years or previous owner was abusive with the keys , but if it is a chinese lockset, they can sometimes fail to fully turn on the bike causing dash to have a blank LCD screen but lights up Neutral etc… , weird i know but follow Simon first , be sure all plugs are cleaned with “Contact Cleaner” . An OEM lockset can be the final thing to worry about.
Just an update, i checked TP, both IAP, IAT, ET, idle speed sol, all have proper power and output range voltages. Wires to ecu continuity, but not checked to pins just strip wire a bit only.. No air leaks near intakes. Hope to try a used alternate ecu next… Crazy no start cranks well. Has compression.
Also check
- Neutral Sensor
- Clutch Handlebar (again) (it has to know you squeezed clutch in to start it) some ECU’s are like this (hell, the CDi of the smaller 2016 125cc bikes won’t even spark if its not sensed , i deal with this all the time for customers forcing me to sell “clutch switches” enmasse at the shop) , i wouldn’t bypass it as “fake neutrals” can happen and bike rolls down or falls to ground as soon as it cranks. Ask me how i know lol.
- Side Stand (bypass it) but sometimes dirty wires makes it hard for bypass to work. (no circuit)
- Finally, the “TIP OVER” sensor , if the bike doesn’t sense the TIP OVER sensor or it’s dead , it thinks you crashed, therefore it won’t start to save itself.
On a GV the tip over sensor will be under seat near battery area or just above the frame under the tank, korea changes locations of it on certain bikes.
Can we see any pictures of it ?> and what damage is on it ? It should be possible to still save them!
Also Korea has “made sure” their engines run perfectly with the carbs they intended for , so sky is the limit if you try to use other branded carbs but also engine wants “twin” carbs , and there is the issue of
- Airbox accepting other carbs (Hyosung’s hate pod filters and will force you to use the airbox back)
- Intake manifold were designed in a way they expect the original carbs to sit on them.
Hey ,
It isn’t really “restricted” per se but because it is an EFi system that’s on a DAEWOO ECU (2008-2010) era
It should have- 2 Lambda Sensors (front and rear exhaust pipe)
- Temp Sensor in the front engine head
In the past working on customer’s 250cc that was a 2009 , it did not like the fact i tried to install a K&N high flow air filter (drop in catridge to keep same airbox) and exhaust pipe changes , the exhaust gases leaned out, so the bike ran worse and leaner.
The engine was doing 90mph healthy but when i eventually got rid of the EFi system and went all carby, it still was doing 90mph, the exhaust upgrades + air filter + bigger carb jets and the like, the bike pulled quicker (a little bit more) , but top speed didn’t change much (this is on stock gearing for comparison)
It is the OLD Grey 250cc engine’s that are 2004-2006 that go to 100mph very easily. Just the nature of them. Weird if you ask me considering they still use the same internals as the efi ones in terms of pistons, crank and clutch.
Your DAEWOO ECU would be difficult to tune as there is no tuner that wants to do it and DAEWOO is out of business now (hence 2013/2014+ bikes or 2012 started using DELPHI ECU systems, but alas , if we add extra air or derestrict the exhaust , the dyno must happen and A/F checked so the engine doesn’t lean out.
It “could” survived with a stock air filter , black widow exhaust pipes (made in UK) or make your own freeflow pipes and “must” use an exhaust can that’s the same size as the OEM one and with a baffle hole the same size as the OEM one or little bigger.
A lot of people got away with changing out parts and say “bike is fine” , but they end up with more wear later down the road of its life.
I guess it depends why you ask the question vs what issue is present with your current stock 250 as it is ? Let us know 🙂
Hey,
Sequence is Front Intake Left Side , Exhaust Right side = 2 bolts. Then screw them almost hand tight, put the rest of the other 2 bolts in the head ,
sort of like a criss-cross fashion as Korea themselves even do with clutch and other places of the bike as per their manuals.
Torque specs for all 4 super long head internal bolts is = 11nm-15nm (alumnium heads vs Steel Bolt!) , let the wench click twice to be extra sure and don’t force it more.
The GT650 uses a different hub and rim and chain length etc.
So if you wanted a kit from our shop, just pop me an email , i will find out what we can do for you and shipping cost to Norway and how long it takes us to gather the kit together
I’m glad you asked as I’ve been wanting to do a new chain kit product range for the GV650 bikes, i’ve not forgotten about them!
Most people just seem to stay with belt drives!
You’re more than welcome sir , don’t worry it happens , that’s why i was quick help! – I know GV-S and GV-C aren’t the same bikes anymore, understandable.
Hey , if the chain kit did its job, that’s good music to my ears!
Enjoy the warm season to come ❤
Maybe upload a video to Youtube like this…..
- Set video as “UNLISTED” , it won’t be on youtube’s search pages.
- Copy the “SHARE LINK” of the video (ie…. youtube . com / watch ? = 1234556 ) without spaces and brackets anyways….
Then come back to this forum, paste the link here
It would help if we can see how it’s behaving from the moment you start it, how it sounds, the health of engine (valve chatter etc) and give it a few rev ups so we see how fast or slow the rpm needle climbs down to idle.
Don’t give up on it.
It should show how much psi it is, as Hyosung’s can behave iffy to start if compression is low but it’s good to be extra sure!
Get the airbox off , get a can called “Engine Easy Start” spray (Starting Spray) , then as the engine cranks , spray starting fluid in the throttle bodies , keep a distance as it might spit some back out , but if it roars for 5 seconds , we might have to look at fueling again.
And although I assume you know how to get error codes from the ECU, try and trick the ECU to see if it has any new stored codes that are preventing it from starting
