Crank but no start, ecu? – GV250 2012 EFi
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So 2012 gv250 wires to alternator were repaired, charges now. I think my son rode with low battery, wondering if ecu got fried from that…
Charged battery, started, rough, then ok, then rough. Sit over night no start, then starts, now not at all, just cranks over, full battery charge.
I have spark, injectors spray gas, pick up sensor has resistance and connected, replaced air intake temp sensor and eng temp sensors…, new plugs. Good fuel pressure to injectors.
Just cranks, can smell fuel out exhaust…
I think ecu is fryed?
32900h88400 ecu unavailiable, even from Hyosung, Korea, they sold sent me incorrect ecu in place, different dual connectore, vs my single connector… Cannot find any dealers in MA or even ecu repair shops in usa to send to for a check, even international ecu repair shops saying they cannot repair…
Pretty screwed here it seems, unless ecu is ok and some other reason for no start?
To make worse, my son wiped out and no tachometer or F1 light, f codes etc possible.
Any comments, discussion, ideas would help… thank you.
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Running with a low battery would not have damaged the ecu, I’ve a feeling that it’s a damaged/bad connection somewhere hyos have really bad wiring OK for carbs but add efi & all sorts of gremlins will appear. Another thing to check is coils.
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Thank you for this help.
1. So I have spark at both plugs, would that mean coils would be working?
2. Wiring and connections and maybe ecu is ok: It did try to start and even start, then not. So at least good news that ecu may be ok and connector maybe loose somewhere…
I guess i will just try to check any and all connectors…
Any futher ideas or comments are welcome of course… thank you.
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Update, checked all connectors, electrical spray, all seem ok. Still just cranks, hear a little try only if open throttle just in option as cranking.
I have spark, i am going to replace the pick up for timing in alternator case, just to see if helps, even though it looks ok, has resistance and i have spark.
I have spark, injectors spraying, have compression, it can only be timing issue, or air fuel mixture off? All sensors ohm out good, voltage correct per manual values… i wush i could just try a new ecu, no wires look shorted to ground ect, all connected…
Aarrggg any help appreciated…
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Update, checked all connectors, electrical spray, all seem ok. Still just cranks, hear a little try only if open throttle just in option as cranking. I have spark, i am going to replace the pick up for timing in alternator case, just to see if helps, even though it looks ok, has resistance and i have spark. I have spark, injectors spraying, have compression, it can only be timing issue, or air fuel mixture off? All sensors ohm out good, voltage correct per manual values… i wush i could just try a new ecu, no wires look shorted to ground ect, all connected… Aarrggg any help appreciated…
it sounds silly sorry for asking
If the injectors are confirmed to be spraying , that’s good, fuel is coming out.
What about the sparks ? are they bright blue sparks or yellow dimm sparks ?
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Yes blue white spark. Sometimes almost runs a few beats. Coils seem good.
I am going to try a new pick up sensor (2011 single 2 wire unit). I am wondering if gives spark but partially failing as to giving timing signals to ecu… can only hope. I took apart, fiddled a bit, back together then almost started for 10 fires or so, then nothing after a few more cranks.
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Efi, no carb, ty.
I am suspicious of the stator unit
Because if you have a “2012 GV” , it will most likely have a “DAEWOO” (out of business) ECU, and subsequently , it means the stator unit is also made by DAEWOO.
However, it is possible to replace it with another OEM unit of the 2009-2012 era . After 2013 Korea switched to the DELPHI electronics on the entirety of the most EFi 250s globally until present time. Some chinese replacement stators are hit & miss, so i can’t really comment on that. However chinese regulators is a big no no.
However we can’t have nothing dare fry up that Black Gold of that super rare ECU!
Hopefully the item (crank sensor) that is part of stator you have acquired will help fire it up!
It may be “too cold” to get an accurate reading as it should be done when engine is hot , but grab a good compression tester (not a chinese ones) and check compression on both cylinders and let us know what it says too. (on cold)
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It should show how much psi it is, as Hyosung’s can behave iffy to start if compression is low but it’s good to be extra sure!
Get the airbox off , get a can called “Engine Easy Start” spray (Starting Spray) , then as the engine cranks , spray starting fluid in the throttle bodies , keep a distance as it might spit some back out , but if it roars for 5 seconds , we might have to look at fueling again.
And although I assume you know how to get error codes from the ECU, try and trick the ECU to see if it has any new stored codes that are preventing it from starting
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Ty. I did try stating fluid, no help, also smell fuel as trying to start.
I cannot get a blink code, Fi light just goes back on solid after crank and no start, never goes off.
I did notice less spark, yellow today as checking, then none, then yellow spark, then whiteish with out resister plug boots taken off. I ordered new coils and boots. Hoping it is intermittent spark issues… will advise back.
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Still just cranks, no start, hear a few puffs, then none. This after new wires/ coils/ plug [resister] boots. New plugs, spark blue/ white esp w/ new plugs. Plugs gas soaked as pull out. Has good compression, new stator, new pick up coil. New intake air temp sensor. new battery. coils hv 12.5V etc…
So i suppose, could be iap1 or iap2 sensors, causing too much fuel maybe? or TP sensor, or isc solinoid?
cannot get any Fi light blink codes, light just stays on.
maybe ecu? hard to find one of these 2012 gv250 ecus. [not delphi]
timing or fuel mixture incorrect from ecu ng?
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Just an update, i checked TP, both IAP, IAT, ET, idle speed sol, all have proper power and output range voltages. Wires to ecu continuity, but not checked to pins just strip wire a bit only..
No air leaks near intakes.
Hope to try a used alternate ecu next…
Crazy no start cranks well. Has compression.
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Just an update, i checked TP, both IAP, IAT, ET, idle speed sol, all have proper power and output range voltages. Wires to ecu continuity, but not checked to pins just strip wire a bit only.. No air leaks near intakes. Hope to try a used alternate ecu next… Crazy no start cranks well. Has compression.
Also check
- Neutral Sensor
- Clutch Handlebar (again) (it has to know you squeezed clutch in to start it) some ECU’s are like this (hell, the CDi of the smaller 2016 125cc bikes won’t even spark if its not sensed , i deal with this all the time for customers forcing me to sell “clutch switches” enmasse at the shop) , i wouldn’t bypass it as “fake neutrals” can happen and bike rolls down or falls to ground as soon as it cranks. Ask me how i know lol.
- Side Stand (bypass it) but sometimes dirty wires makes it hard for bypass to work. (no circuit)
- Finally, the “TIP OVER” sensor , if the bike doesn’t sense the TIP OVER sensor or it’s dead , it thinks you crashed, therefore it won’t start to save itself.
On a GV the tip over sensor will be under seat near battery area or just above the frame under the tank, korea changes locations of it on certain bikes.
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Ty for that. However tip over is sending signal. Also the neutral, clutch and side stand switches are all bypassed. Without bypass (or all switch in working order), the motorcyle would not crankover, which it does. Just wont catch/start.
Not sure if ecu needs to know these to run, but have fuel out injectors and have strong spark…
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12KG CM2 is usually the limit and normal is around 14-16kg cm2
However i can attest that i’ve tested a Hyosung 125cc that had 100 PSi in the rear and 125 psi at the front and this was hot.
The bike started in a bad mood, but once it got going, it was idling easy at 1k revs , then gets to 1800 rpm (because its a carb model and UK is cold as hell) , however due to low PSi its top speed and acceleration wasn’t good.
So if you’re 100 PSI cold, you should be able to start it and if it does and gets hot, it should rise up.
Normally 175 psi each cylinder is a very good top end.
I have no idea how much you have replaced on this bike (assuming OEM parts) other than what you have said on this forum already, then I pray we don’t have to find a GV250 DAEWOO ECU. (I mean it’s sparking but Fi light stays on? )
I know on a GT bike on DELPHI system, it comes on, then goes away once it starts running.
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Ty so much for info, esp in compression. 100psi cold might start……
Trying to find good used daewood ecu still, not sure if is answer.
My post shows most parts tried already.
Tomm i will pull side case off again to see if flywheel key may have sheared/ timing to spark…
Hoping it is sheared!
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Update, purchased the flywheel puller and key. Pulled off flywheel, key was ok, not sheared. So stil just cranks, no start. Found a used, hopfully correct, hopfully working 2012 ecu in Spain. Hope to get and try in 2 weeks. Aarrgg
Fingers crossed because i have full EFi parts from a 2011 DAEWOO GT bike, and ECU is working too. (it could be sold as someone is asking for an ECU out of us) but we may have other parts for you.
You got this!
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Ok so got an ecu out of France, used, but most likely good,,, tried it, same thing. No start, smell gas have spark, low sompression, 100 psi.
So either wiring harness, or 100psi not enough to start?
I thought some engines has compression relief to turn over easier… will still start, correct?
Sensors all seemed to check ok. But maybe need to replace anyway IAPx2, eng tempwrature sensor?
Or is wiring harness issue
Baffled. I think it is flooded with gas from injectors on full?
And thoughts?
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Hey Steve , send me an email , sorry i saw this late. I am based in the UK, and i have a lot of injectors, throttle bodies , IAPs , MAFs , Lambda Sensors, and what not
I’ve literally stripped a SENTEC 2008 bike that was running well , it is 250cc and i can confirm Sentec sensors will work with bikes with DAEWOO ECU up to 2018
I have also removed a whole harness from a 2008 GT250 Sentec with ECU intact, i can’t sell separately but i can imagine they go for hundreds of dollars due to rarity!
GT wiring harness is hard to use on a GV because you will need GT clocks (speedometer) and custom fixings to fit the speedo to dash , plus some wires may be cut to retrofit rear GV lights but im sure front headlight will plug straight in.
I am digressing…
Did both cylinders even spark bright and what colour ? And was the seller honest that the ECU works well ? No FI lights on your GV ?
Or have you found a way to trick your ECU (as per service manual) to get some kind of stored error codes with the new ECU ?
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Marcel, what is your email. I could use to try IAP, both and Engine Temperature sensor to try. They check ok, but im at a loss here.
Harness i would want exact model and year…
Spark blue white, also replaced entire ignition system plugs to wires, coil, pick up, alt, all in case, all were good and now all new.
No idea if new used ecu is good, but bike acts same, smell gas, spark, no start. Compression??? 100psi… cold.
No Fi lamp, that and tachometer missing. I rigged a lamp to Fi wires, jumped service mide. Light stays on, off as crank, on as ignition on. No blinks. Never off cause never starts now. Ran off on in past, weird. Seems like IAP?? Has correct voltage from wires to power and of signal range. Sensor, both have proper resistance.
Crazy.
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Well good and bad news. Good is mystery solved. Bad news is 100psi not enough to start engine. I put tablespoon stp thick oil in both spark plug holes, rose compression to 120, 125 psi cold. Plugs in and it started. Of course burning oil lol out of cylinders.
So, need rings and cylinder jugs it seems.
I bet someone ran this on low to no oil because low mileage 8,444 miles only…
Ih well.. thank you all.
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Well good and bad news. Good is mystery solved. Bad news is 100psi not enough to start engine. I put tablespoon stp thick oil in both spark plug holes, rose compression to 120, 125 psi cold. Plugs in and it started. Of course burning oil lol out of cylinders. So, need rings and cylinder jugs it seems. I bet someone ran this on low to no oil because low mileage 8,444 miles only… Ih well.. thank you all.
Save her 🙂
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