♠️ M77
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Sorry for the delayed response everyone. Nothing has moved forward with my bike as of yet because my little brother ran himself over with his truck
he is okay thankfully but I took a break with the bike to stick close by. Thank you Martin for your input on the website, I will steer clear of them. I am definitely worried about the seemingly scarce parts, so far I need a few parts and I’m hoping that list doesn’t grow lolFamily comes first, make sure he is good 🙂
I ordered parts from this website 4 weeks ago, chased last week and still nothing. Beginning to think it’s a scam.
hyoparts , spares and them clones should not be trusted at all now. Im sure i would have done everything i can to get you parts to your door as fast as i can.
When you get your cash back, just send us an email and ill see if i can get the parts or not and their timeframe to your door.
Oh dear! Marcel, I am despondent! I am back to running on rear cylinder only. I felt sure the bike would run, even with the front carb starting jet blocked with a broken off needle tip (!!), but it seems it won’t. I have a spark, but only running rear pot. Can you find me a front carb body or suggest anything else I can try. I will send you pics of carbs via email. I have all the new jets already, so can fit them to a body. Hope you can help.
No rush fella, I will try to “hunt” down a carb body but due to scarcity they aint cheap anymore even 2nd hand, so expect to spend 3 figures yikes.
I pray its still possible to save yours.
Update, purchased the flywheel puller and key. Pulled off flywheel, key was ok, not sheared. So stil just cranks, no start. Found a used, hopfully correct, hopfully working 2012 ecu in Spain. Hope to get and try in 2 weeks. Aarrgg
Fingers crossed because i have full EFi parts from a 2011 DAEWOO GT bike, and ECU is working too. (it could be sold as someone is asking for an ECU out of us) but we may have other parts for you.
You got this!
Hey , welcome 🙂
Please excuse my delay, I thought someone would have chimed in by now but it’s okay , we got you.
So , have you made any progress with your investigation ?
And have you checked out the tutorials for both “air” and “fuel” on this site to verify everything is in order?
Any doubts? – Just replace the tank tap (better new) , it’s on this shop.
Fuel Pump = We will get to this later, but the “tap” must defo be sending fuel in to the filter to confirm operation
Also the filter usually has an “arrow” showing correct flow direction because some owners put filters the wrong way and fuel doesn’t flow or come out. and pump will not run dry until it senses fuel. Then it sends it to the carb.
Welcome to the site , and glad you could join us!
Can you please show us a picture?
No vtwin Hyosung makes has ever ran well on a single carb , actually i would like to see what’s under the hood too, incase i spot parts that shouldn’t be there either.
Regards.
I have the starting clutch system in stock and i can remove it from the donor bike next week to ship over to you, just click “contact” at the bottom of the site and send us your address for shipping quotes and any used parts you want.
The teeth broke off because of either
- Engine is hydrolocking (fuel is leaking in to cylinders!)
- Starter Motor too tired (replace it)
- Starter Motor Relay (replace it , just for a peace of mind) , weak ones or bad ones will make the engine crank much slower.
I’ve had a hyosung that lasted 50,000 miles before i went to a different Hyosung , but it was more like “me being OCD” and overzelously maintaining the bike (What she wants, she gets right away lol, i don’t want till later to find problems or i just upgrade certain bits there and there) . I am digressing….
2. Fuel Leaks
Looks like you will need to rebuild the carbs (if its a carb) (as 2008/2009 is the “switch over year for carb to EFi) and make sure the floats are set at the correct height too and they don’t leak out. (A full carb rebuild kit is must)— Replace fuel tap (if it says “OFF” on the GV tank, disconnect the hose and see if fuel comes out) —- do this tank away from the bike! (fire hazard & fuel )
— Replace vacumm pump. It is a japanese Mikuni type but …. “weather & age of years” can make the rubbers brittle inside , so instead of trying to rebuild the pump, easier to replace it with a new one and it should be the “last defence” from shooting fuel towards the carbs when bike is fully turned off
IF it is EFi system , actually , it’s all carby , i seen the pictures above ^ – It’s a carb edition. So ignore EFi references above ^
The picture of you holding a part in your hand belongs to the gearbox , did you drain oil from the wrong plug then ?
Check this out …
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
I really hope you put it back where it normally is if you drained oil via the wrong plug (Korea could have made the 2 plugs under the bike further apart but engineers did what they had to do i guess!)
Usually a triangle plate with a plug under the bike means oil drain, as there would be a sieve/strainer hiding behind it – Not all brands like this anyway,
Well however. After 3 month i am officially alowed to ride this 22 years old veauty in swiss streets.
Time to have a nice drink and toast after your nice ride with it!
Never mind what they say , it still is pretty!
Also check & swap relays around, sometimes if one of the 3 or 4 relays behind the seat panels blows out, the bike then doesn’t activate anymore. Also check these
- Clutch Handle Bar Switch
- Side Stand Switch
- Connection to the ECU is very clean and there is not 1 single loose one (1 single loose wire can throw everything off)
Does it say F-1 or Fi (Fi is fuel injection system) (including what i said about the pump above ^ )
Also check (some models have it) and extra fuse box that says “30A” only, check them too with rest of what i said on the list above^
If you get time , try to trick the ECU to throw an error code (service manual in this forum on how to get error code … AB1223 , 456BC etc.. will say on the dash)
If push come shove , remove battery for 24hrs and reconnect it all again and try to start it , if not, check my comments above or trick ecu for error code. There is something that’s tripped the ECU not to start.
I just pray the ECU itself is in very good working order and the zillion wires that are going to it are in tact as it has multiple pins behind the ECU.
Just one-wire throws it off .
I’m struggling to get fuel from my tank into my carb, I’ve bought a new fuel pump and I’ve checked the hoses for any blockages. when I manually suck on the vacuum pipe fuel comes out of the fuel pipe but when I connect everything back up and try to start it nothing goes into to fuel pump and then into the carb, was wondering if there was anything I could try?
Fuel tap is faulty (just replace it as it will 100% leave you stranded) or there is lack of vacuum to open the taps when engine cranks.
Lack of vacuum follows on
- Rotted / Old ORings under the rubber intake manifolds
- Airbox is not sitting in the carb 100% (especially the front where tiny air still gets sucked in)
- Intake manifolds (spray carb cleaner when running to see if revs change , then intake pipes have a problem)
- Loose vacuum hoses or clogged hoses (i hope not)
- metal manifold clamps holding the carbs down are loose. (don’t overtighten as inlets are very difficult to get brand new)
Nice tutorial. But i have to correctyou on one point. On the 2001 gv125 aquila the stock pilot jet is 17.5 and not 15 like you sayed.
Domestically in UK we have stripped them and found them to be size 15 and it seems to match our findings on Korea’s parts database in KR America they use for dealers , but it is possible 17.5 is used in other countries anyway.
At the time Euro3 laws came in effect , the newer bikes even had EGR stuff fitted to them (to trick emissions laws) , but at the end, it made bikes a little leaner. If korea uses 17.5 , they downsize the CO mixture , if they use 15 pilots , they enrichen the mixture a little bit 😉
Same engine as GT125R bikes , no GT125R bike in world has had 17.5 pilots as they changed to MK2 carbs with jet pumps at the side…. meanwhile GV & GT Naked shared same carb around 2001-2005 with same settings. GTR bike came much later.
98-01 – GV
2003 – GT
2005 – GTR😉
I should add that some GV125s in UK started coming with 17.5 pilots again. Weird if you ask me!
Size 15 seems to be right size pilot , i mean 250cc is size 20 it’s perfect for it. 22.5+ etc will just waste fuel .
Do you hear the Fuel Pump under the time priming?
Is there a red Fi light on the dash too ?Also check & swap relays around, sometimes if one of the 3 or 4 relays behind the seat panels blows out, the bike then doesn’t activate anymore.
Also check these
- Clutch Handle Bar Switch
- Side Stand Switch
- Connection to the ECU is very clean and there is not 1 single loose one (1 single loose wire can throw everything off)
Does it say F-1 or Fi (Fi is fuel injection system) (including what i said about the pump above ^ )
I Also shared on Facebook.
I guess you not keeping her for one last summer ride then ? 😉
we will be going to get a new volt meter tomorrow, ours conveniently bit the dust. But the starter clutch has almost half of the teeth missing. Not sure how anyone managed. We pulled the triangle and opened the seeve, more oil came out but no metal chunks or anything came from there. Definitely needs a new oil filter, the kid we got it from flooded it horribly. Gasoline mixed with the oil so much it smells like we dumped gasoline all over everything. The chain on the bike needs adjusted, it’s missing a caliper on the front. The battery is zip tied on, gas tank and carbs aren’t even hooked up which makes me worry about the carbs, now I’m thinking for that we may need to take it to a shop, what do you think?. It’s a project bike that’s for sure but I’m ready for it.
If you can get yourself some carb cleaner , would you be able to clean the carbs out hard and also use air compressor to blow out every small hole inside the carb , then for your parts list will just be “carb rebuild kit”
If no metal shavings fell out, i best hope they are inside the oil filter , i mean looks like he hydrolocked the engine with flooded carbs and fuel and the 650 tried to crank , causing its teeth to shear off from the sprocket behind the crank, this is my theory unless the kid admits it!
Poor thing damn, if you’re ready for it, the forum is open for questions and topics , you will be making us happy for rescuing it 👍
Poor girl 🙁
Starter System
Magneto SystemHow handy are you with testing your meter on the coils themselves ?
- Check for primary and secondary resistance and report back
- Check the “HT Cap” on its own (remove HT cap from the coil) and check if its over or under 9,000 ohms (end to end)
Since the oil is drained. remove the bottom “TRIANGLE” that’s under the engine where drain bolt goes in.
Under the triangle should be a “Seeve” there, take it out (watch your eyes)
And see if old teeth fall out. unless you already made sure there is no floating metal bits in the engine and replace oil filter too!
it sounds silly but when cranking the bike does the RPM gauge move ?
because on a carby bike, when you press start , the RPM gauge always dances between 600-1000 rpm (magneto rotor spinning) and coils working ? + CDI unit.
But sometimes no spark is a sign of
- Bad coils
- Bad HT cap (common) thats why we use NGK ones.
- Side Stand switch (bypass it, as it is that annoying) but don’t forget to check side stand before riding!
- Clutch Handlebar Lever Switch (Don’t bypass it) as fake neutrals can happen , an engine can spin straight to 1st gear and bike falls down , as neutral wasnt “fully” neutral if you know what i mean, it’s always good to squeeze clutch before starting anyway.
I can always post a diagram if you like ?
Ok thanks! I am in the US so i have no idea where to even look here and i figured online was my best option. I have found some on Ebay but i am apprehensive with ebay as well. I did send Marcel a personal message so hopefully he can help me out. We are new to Hyosung but i wanted something cheap and easy to deal with…so far cheap but not easy lol.
I got you covered 👍 Will respond to PM shortly.
Sorry for delay as it was weekend i was away sorting customer bike deliveries locally.
I am free for the night for enquiries.i will take a pic when i change the breaks (hopefully arriving tomorrow) but what about replacing the entire master cylinder and leavers in one go. is that feasible or fantasy?
Sometimes Korea will fit a 650 master cylinder and use a stock lever but sometimes it will come from a 125cc because the original Naked bikes (125cc and 250cc) were always single disc.
The GV Aquila always had the same master cylinder both 125 and 250cc variants
Your pictures soon will help confirm what we have to deal with 🙂
That’s it right there!
It means the battery was discharging and the charging system was not keeping up anymoreUsually the 65o’s it’s good to replace both stator and regulator = married combo
I don’t usually sell a reg by their own for 650s but will do it on a custom order , otherwise most just get the full thing here
ElectroSport stator (recommended)
True Shingden Reg (not the fakes online, there is millions) and yes , Hyosung’s have gone in smoke for using cheap taiwanese regulators.I couldn’t risk it.
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
A bad reg can take down a stator that’s already stressed.
Alas, as such i would also advise changing the starter motor solenoid.
A healthy solenoid spins the crank faster.Stater MOTOR itself would be the last thing to worry about.
