Moustache Man
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Update – got the bike back now, after an afternoon of cleaning, polishing and waxing. The mechanics left it outside for a bit, upsetting 🙁
It was actually a dodgy hazard relay that blew a fuse on the bike. The stator is still working… but I’ll probably end up replacing it soon anyway. Plus it does need a new battery too.
Over two weeks for a dealership to find a new relay… and they probably ended up buying some generic one from ebay anyway. Pretty sad with that, but they were quick and speedy to recover the bike. Didn’t cost me too much, 75% of the cost was the recovery. Just the time it took was painful.
Well, at least I know how to change the stator.
To be honest, my GV125 needs a complete overhaul. Its done 7800 miles and hasn’t had a major service since 1500 miles, only regular oil changes and chain maintenance done by myself.
Thanks for the instructions Marcel and Simon, update – I had to get the bike recovered and my only option was to get it recovered by a local garage. I had a few issues with specific recovery motorcycle companies who were trying to make things difficult for me.
So the bike is currently sat in a workshop, they’ve been closed for the past 2 days so they haven’t started any work on the bike yet. I have informed them on the current situation, and handed over your advice to them, in hope they check out the stator first.
I also recommended the Hyoriders shop website to them for spare parts for Hyosung bikes, as I don’t think they have a main dealer for major Hyosung spares, and Hyosung bikes/parts are very rare in my local area (South East).
Will post further updates, it is a shame that I couldn’t find a way to get the bike recovered back to my address, as I would have started work on it already. Hopefully I can get her back and running again.
Thanks Simon, I did recently check the stator sidecase whilst doing an oil change, it looked okay, maybe I just didn’t know what I was looking for.
I’ll check that tomorrow or on Sunday when I can get my hands on the bike. I see the Hyoriders store has the stator for sale anyway, so hopefully this shouldn’t be a huge issue.
Thanks a lot, will get back asap with the results. Mechanically, the bike is sound with only 7000 miles so Im hoping I can get her back on the road. Thanks again
I am only using E5 fuel, although it can be a pain to find. The tank was running low and I did put an additive into the fuel tank, but I don’t think it mixed very well.
Maybe the high ethanol content in the additive was sat at the top of the fuel, and then got put into the system in a high concentration all at once?
I have filled the bike up fully with E5 fuel, so I will update if the problem occurs again tomorrow. I won’t add any additive too.
I do have a slight exhaust leak, so maybe that might be affecting how the valves work. Thanks for the tip though, if the problem still occurs then I’ll post another comment and try to get a video of the issue.
Cheers Tom, that is super helpful. I shall find a couple hours tomorrow to run those checks, I think I have a spark plug socket that will fit.
Can I just say? Absolutely gorgeous bike, lovely condition, and a 250 too. Low mileage for its age too, if I lived locally then I’d buy it!
Would make for a perfect first bike, for a really affordable price too.
I believe that hose is the overflow from the carburettors. It leads out and drips excess fuel onto the chain to act as lubrication. Quite a lot of motorcycles use this system.
So when you squeeze it shut, the revs increase? That is weird, maybe it creates more pressure within the carbs, allowing for more fuel to pass through, as it only has one option and cannot use the overflow to escape if it builds up too much.
I am no mechanic, so it is just best to look after the engine, and keep it running/in use. Your best bet is to try and remove the carburettors completely, but you risk damaging the intake manifolds. It would be too expensive to take it to a garage, as they would drop the engine using a jack, charge you for labour, parts and it would cost far too much for what is it worth.
I have not had the issue with the hoses and the revs, but I understand the problem with using the throttle and the engine cutting out.
It is clear that you have the fuel to air ratio wrong, where the carburettors are definitely blocked, so you are getting too much air and not enough fuel.
Our fuel tanks carry 14 Litres, so if the bottle says “one bottle for 50” then put in a quarter or so. No need to measure it precisely, it will not cause harm to your motor.
Definitely check your idle adjuster.
You can locate it below the “V-Twin” plastic cover. Run the engine, and twist the black knob anti-clockwise to turn it down a bit, and clockwise to increase it.This should help out the engine cutting out when throttle is applied after turning it on.
Im not too sure what hose you are squeezing, but it is probably the air intake into the carburettor. Which would explain why the tach increases, as you are adjusting the air/fuel mixture into the motor.
Your best bet is to put the additive in, do a bit of spraying into the air intake, and run the bike. Adjust your throttle cable and eventually the carbs should clear up. The bike will be easier to start.
Hyosungs are notorious for being sluggish whilst cold. Mine still takes about 5 minutes of riding to catch up to speed.
And another tip! If you plan to leave your bike stored for a while, remember to switch off the fuel tap.
And if you can, let the engine run until the fuel left in the hoses run dry. The bike should cut out after a few minutes, which will leave the hoses and the carburettors dry for storage. So you can leave the bike for weeks/months without the fuel turning into sludge.
Have no fear! I assume that is the Carby model, based on the white speedo/tach gauges.
Yeah I had the exact same issue. Even starting from cold on a warm sunny day, it struggled to switch on. I bought mine off a guy who had it sat around for 6 months, riding home on that thing was a nightmare.
As the carbs are so difficult to access, and you could risk damaging your intake manifolds, it is best to just let the bike run. Use premium fuels if you can, and go to Halfords/any other car/vehicle store and get some fuel additives.
I personally use REDEX.
Another tip – get some carb cleaner spray too. Take off the air filter box on the side of the bike (you will only need a screwdriver). Take off the jubilie clip holding the air filter box onto the intake, so you are left with an open intake. Run the bike, give it a bit of throttle and spray the carb cleaner into the open air intake. You should feel the revs increase, then the bike bogs down afterwards. You will find a good routine eventually.
Another tip as well, adjust your idle screw. Dont adjust it so badly that the revs stay on when you pull the throttle, but adjust it to the maximum before this occurs.
One final tip – the stock fuel hoses are a bit crap. Cheap rubber, will fray and disintegrate. Get yourself the steel braided hose being sold in the shop here. You will struggle to make it fit, I am running mine without the giant fuel filter but it still runs great.
Oh one more thing. With the airbox removed, look up at the carbs.
You should see two tiny little brass screws. These adjust your fuel mixture. Try and get the bike running richer, and just test the screws at different adjustments to see what fits best for you.
A lot of trial and error, took me hundreds of miles of riding and lots of idling tests to get my bike tuned perfectly, without having to remove the carbs and clean them
Im from Essex, so slap bang in the middle of Norwich and Kent.
Ive only seen 2 other Hyosungs on the road, so would be nice to see a couple more.
I like to describe my relationship with my Hyosung similar to Marmite.
Its a love-hate kinda thing.
Look, you can buy a Honda 125 and it will work. It will run. It will switch on everyday. Its reliable, but its boring.
My GV125 2016 model, sometimes the battery is dead, sometimes the carbs are clogged, the chain is loose, the speedo wont switch on, the LCD screen is glitching, the indicators are staying on and it guzzles fuel like a V8 ford.
But I love my Hyosung. It has character. It has a personality. It has a mind of its own, with its sticky throttle and slow braking time.
Its big, its bulky, people think its a large bike, its rare here in the UK, everyone loves it. They look great, sound great and if you look after it, they are reliable. If you need parts, have no fear. We’re all here to look out for each other, so have fun on your Hyosung, look after it and it’ll look after you too.
Ride on
Yep, similar issue with me. Its something to do with the clutch, been riding like that for years and nothing terrible has happened.
It only occurs at low revs/idle, in neutral when the clutch is disengaged. The second you pull in the clutch, the noise goes away.
I was told by a garage that it was just regular clutch rattle/noise, and it has not been a problem since (with failing MOTs/servicing). It hasn’t affected performance either.
I agree with Marcel, any pod/aftermarket air filter is such a pain on these bikes, they were designed to produce the most power (14.2hp) with the stock airbox etc etc.
Alan, I removed that aftermarket air filter, as it was just a pain really. With my home-made gasket, it ran fine but thats only because I was restricting the airflow to mimic the airflow given from the stock box. The filter was purely for looks at this point, and despite the weight reduction, I have put the old one back on.
Its a shame, as I would love to push as much power out of these engines as possible, but im happy with what ive got. Good luck and stay safe
Hi everyone. I am looking to upgrade the main jets on my GV125. Looked at Mikuni main jets on eBay. There are lots of sellers selling different shapes any types. I know I need a 90 front and 92.5 rear. But which type. Thanks in advance. Luke
Hi Luke!
I have the answer to your question!
https://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/hl-229092_5
Check this link out, look for the code in the title if you dont wanna buy them from WeMoto or if they arent the correct jetting. These should be the right ones, if you search up that code on the internet, you find the specific Mikuni carburettors that are listed in the Specs guide of the GV125 (i did this research myself, you can double check if you like just to be safe)
Hope this helps. Cheers
Oooh, are they brown in colour by any chance? A lovely set of brown panniers to match the accents on the seat would be lovely, if you do have a set that is of course. Send a message with a photo of them here, thats probably easier
I have attempted to install a pod filter. Well, I cannot really call it a “pod”, it had a 76mm diameter.
I had to remove the fuel tank, remove the horrible looking bracket and remove the air intake box. Pain in the arse to remove it without taking the tank off so dont bother. Once finally installing it and attempting to ride the bike, of course it was running wayyyyyy too lean and barely made it above 4000rpm. So i duct-taped 3/4 of the air intake, completely reversing the whole point of an aftermarket air filter, to increase air to the engine, but I ended up blocking it again. The bike ran fine, sounded louder and was lighter. It also looked cool.
However, I am desperate to remove the airbox entirely, just so I can access those yummy carbs. I have a lovely aftermarket set of carb jets waiting to be fitted, so I can reinstall my filter properly. I did manage to find a place that say they can “take apart the carbs from the GV125”, so i’ll have to check them out when I service the bike in January. With my new sprocket kit (thanks marcel it did arrive, getting it fitted tomorrow!), carb tune, air filter, and my gutted muffler, the bike should be hitting 80mph no problem. Maybe even more
Ignore the crappy exhaust wrap, I have changed that since taking this photo!
Thanks an awful lot Marcel, the help is much appreciated! Im sending it off to a mechanic on Wednesday, and in these current situations it probably won’t be ridden until then.
I might fire it up tomorrow and take another video, which might give you a good idea on where the noise is, but the noise is loudest on the lower left side of the bike.
And the noise can only be heard after riding the bike for 10 mins, when the bike is started for the first time that day, the noise is not there. Must be something to do with expansion of something, as you mentioned above.
EDIT – the bike has 2500 miles, so not a lot. Its a shame that it is making a noise already, the previous owner used it for 200 miles and had it sitting around for half a year.
Many thanks though :))
Hi, I need to reject my carbs on my gv, did you get to yours in the end. What tips do you recommend?
Hello John, apologies for the very late reply, I havent been active on this website since the lockdowns really.
I never got to access my carbs, the closest I got to reaching them was through the side, by taking apart all the fairings and hoses on the left hand side. But Hyosung, cheeky buggers, had fitted the carbs with soft screws, and multiple different screw heads, so when i turned the screws I could access, the head would mash away, making it useless and stuck.
I own a 2016 model, so your best bet will be to try and access them through the side, and take off the jet covers and work on them whilst the carbs are still attached, or use carb cleaner spray, spray it directly into the air filter intake whilst the bike is running, and purchase some fuel additive that cleans CARBS specifically. But most will do the trick, this wont remove ALL gunk from your carbs, but you will notice a slight difference.
The difference i noticed, was that my bike is now able to hold idle at traffic lights, so it doesnt cut out now.
Sorry for the late response again, and sorry I couldnt be that helpful too.
By the looks of your profile, im also from Essex too haha! Based in colchester, ive never seen another Hyosung GV out in the wild, so I might bump into you some day! Look out for the moustache.
Stay safe, and i hope you manage to clean your carbs to a somewhat “okay” fashion.
Ben
Ahh the design is very very irritating, I really hoped there was an easier way round this.
They’ve made it as hard as possible to crack open anything, but why make the carbs hard to access when they need to be maintained often?? That is what I don’t understand.
I’ll have to temporarily try my best with sprays and fuel additives to see if I can at least unclog the carbs, but thanks a lot Marcel, I’ll try and find a way round this one!
