♠️ M77
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Great , great write up!
Will push this to the Tech section as a sticky!
Get a GT650R front master cylinder (not 250 , not 650 naked , not 250 naked) , it must be 650R — Then get XRT Levers (Hyosung Approved) from MotoGB UK (ring em) or Startrights Leeds.
125 master cylinders do not fit custom levers, = why? The master cylinder only wants skinny levers that are exactly as how Hyosung made them. We all tried tbh, some people actually bought some and shaved / skimmed the lever to fit inside , what if he isn’t here ? & died as his lever finally warped. Wouldn’t mess with brakes tbh .
I wouldn’t use universal cylinders = They are 99% rubbish and are not better than Korea’s TCTC brake systems (hence older 650s use the same calipers but bigger master cylinders)
I could only dream of having that cagiva in my hands now lol. What a beauty (and so is your Hyosung ofcourse)
I noticed exhaust looks original, suggests its a very young 2015 plate or the last guy must have kept it inside the house than letting it rot! – This is good to see./
Glad the advise of changing the fuel cap has paid off too 🙂
Ride safe now!
(PS. share a pic of the bike if you want, in the Pictures & Journals Section of this forum & brag about it 😎)
We have success, replaced the fuel cap with a GV650 one and its running better than ever with no spluttering, bogging or cutting out around 400 pounds in attempts to repair when it was just a 20 pound fix
Hey, it can’t be all waste if the bike rides better with some new goodies that you won’t have to worry about!
I’ve once bought a bike needing a fuel tap, but i was like screw it, let me overhaul the entire fuel system including its injectors , the result was that i didn’t touch its parts for 2yrs as it just kept on going.
if i just fixed the tap, what if the injectors were next to go pop! – Sucks to have a skinny wallet but i am smiling more when it doesn’t break down on me 200 miles away from home. I could be clinically OCD about such things lol
Marcel, what is “wanning”?
the process of decreasing, declining, or coming to an end
The dictionary explained it better than i would lol.
And yes email sent , check your inbox now sir
Hey,
Is it possible to get a picture where you are little further away, and at a different angle just so i can think of another possible fix or not.
not all hope is lost
tbh , people have told me Sinnis aren’t acurate.This has been a suspicion as whenever i open the tank after riding you can hear the pressure escaping so my dad thinks there is a vaccum being created which is causing it to cut out.
Try the hot fixes i mentioned above and see if the situation improves before its time to replace the unit
Hey, I replied to your son’s topic , check it out below
Worst case ? Replacement time for it!
my dad wants to know how to do the fuel cap vent fix, any suggestions?
Inside remove the fuel cap off the tank (unscrew it)
Then look for a hole thats near the bolt holes. That is overflow/breather and drains away to the long pipe under the tank that dangles near the shock.
Keep that clear or spray air compressor. You will hear air hiss out of the super long overflow pipe.
Check the fuel cap unit by pressing its springs down and see if they come up smoothly. There is no rebuild kit for them. So if its suspicious or packed it. A replacement is advised.
That is also a good question from him 👍
i went on the bypass and got up to sixth gear and was sitting at around 10k rpm for about 3 minutes then i felt a loss of power then i couldn’t get the revs up and came to a complete stop
Thats the one!
Assuming you have upgraded all electrics (due to heat failure / common) (coils, caps, laser plugs not IX junk ones, stator, reg rec)
Then your war is slow fuel delivery issues vs high speed runs. In other words my previous comment says the bike is asking for fuel faster than the entire wanning fuel system can keep up.
As such. You might want to look at ur plugs or show us.
Also take a look at the other thread on homepage that says *MOT & Running Issues* there is recent replies which could help you in regards to your thread also.
Let us know if in doubt or have questions on this topic.
Its not dead. Just a little moody as it wants off the leash 😉
We ship worldwide everyday. Send us an email (Tap contact the bottom of this site) The checkout was locked to UK/ireland for free shipping. Overseas = we use multiple shipping companies to find the cheapest quote or fastest delivery & we ask overseas customers to give us accurate addresses properly (in a style we explain them) thats why we have not had any international delivery failures for years now due to wrong addresses or customer spelling errors. 🚚
Or you can buy them on our ebay shop (@evocrest) – ebay will use their GSP shipping and you pay them shipping costs not us. 🙂
So my original comments still apply before.your video replies.
I will add a few notes though thanks to your Youtube Shorts & Plug pics.
- Both Plugs = Slightly overheating… (((With oily deposits on threads????)))
- Front = leaning out at high throttle
- Rear = leaning out too but seems to do better than front.
- Both Plugs = idling OK. (Assumes mixture is 2.5 front and 2.75 rear using size 15 Pilot Jets) but see next bullet point….
- The carb needs to have its jet needle at a richer setting as the white cones need to be brown after full throttle runs.
- Mixture screw will have less effect once the carb slides & main jets take over at past 4k revs. BUT it does have an effect during gear changes as bike momentarily lowers revs or coasting while rider carefully disengages/engages clutch to change gears. The carb slides then lift off again.
Fuel Pump = It looks young. I think you could check your fuel tank. Take care not to let fuel eat paint. And clean the tap of any debris as switching between ON/OFF/RES seems to have an effect now.
If a bike cuts out… Tap is usually the 1st thing i get rid off & replace. Work my way to the pump & filter. Then carb (dreaded airbox removal but needs must!)
Im sure you will follow my tutorial on airbox removal. If you get pics and do better than me ; people will love you for it!
I do a lot but never seem to get round to taking pictures to make new tutorials.
I need a kick up the arse for it! Ill get it done lol.
If the cam chain is making noise……does it go after its hot or get worse?
Does holding clutch reduce it?
Does high revs make it worse or quieter?
Same questions again for the Top Engine Heads (Valve Heads = valves chitty chatting)
You will want to find a way to have youe ear behind each engine cam tensioner behind their heads.
hiya marcel i’m sorry to bother again, the bikes been in at the garage for over 2 weeks and have just got it back today, they fixed a few things- fixed an over pressurising fuel tank changed plugs/ coils valve clearance/ carb balance i rode it when i got it back, seemed fine until i did a top speed run where it cut out at high speed, im so stuck with it and any suggestions will do
Fuel Tap wanning (common)
Fuel Pump wanning or needs a minor clean
Fuel Filter clogged or facing wrong way
Carb Needs *optimizing*
2 weeks just to do clearances and optimize a carb (apparantly). They are taking the piss as i would have had it done much sooner.
Also explain a bit more about this top speed run?
We do not see a video link?
Mixture is 2.5 full turns from closed. Do not adjust this ever again because it is very difficult to optimize if bike has other issues.
So if bike has issues after 2.5 turns. Dont turn it again. Replace jets and have the carb ultrasonic cleaned. Then look for cracks in intake rubber manifolds.
- Sometimes it helps to replace intake manifold O-RINGS (like the ones you see at our shop)
Regarding airbox fitting….
1. Attach carbs to airbox
2. Tighten clamps holding carb to airbox
3. Airbox & Carb together will slowly (slowly!) Go inside intake rubber manifolds
4. Make sure manifolds do not get stressed. Be very gentle with that as they are very difficult rubber parts to buy. Korea stopped making them.
Some previous owners are very stupid aren’t they , that’s why this brand gets a bad name lol.
The hyosung doesn’t like pod filters, many of us worldwide have tried to use pods but the bike becomes unstable and its a very frustrating war of messing with the carbs everyday.
Trust me, the airbox wins.
As Jim said above ^ , why not a metal/plastic sheet there and use “JB WELD EPOXY HIGH TEMP” for plastic. This could be the cheapest and easiest solution.
No screws. Otherwise it may rattle and end up inside the engine and it explodes , very good advise from Jim
Also check your ignition caps (they are known to crack off under heat), you will want NGK ones tbh.
And ignition coil (common) but check primary & secondary resistance values and let us know
Can you show us a picture if possible to see what kind of damage the last owners did to it ?
We have airboxes on ebay and happy to ship worldwide.
Maybe there is a way to fix yours if possible ? but try attach a picture here if you can 🙂
