♠️ M77
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If you see anything or if anyone has one they’d be willing to sell (or give me, pahaha kinda wishing with that one but still worth a shot
) are you able to send me the links or send them my way? ThanksContact MotoGB UK as they should probably still have an unregistered new bike or Rochdale Robbinsons
Or Startright Leeds (oldest hyo dealer) and tell them Marcel sent you, they will get straight to the point 😉
GV Rear Axle should be 22mm and 21mm nut , but also get 20mm and 23mm as Korea did change the axles even on their bigger GV bikes.
Torque Specs for rear axle bar = About 60-70ft lbs max (Use 50-60ft lbs & double check its safe) use online converters of FT LBS TO NM if your torque wench doesn’t show FT LBS markings.
If you find a mint old gen with its own grey engine and it has good compressio (get proof numbers) and valves have been treated well etc… all the usually deep service jobs to the engine as per korea’s rules etc , go for that one instead. It may have multiple owners over its life , so as with any 2nd hand bike, do every check you can do and if in doubt service the engine fully and start afresh.
Unless you find a bargain of a new shape unregistered bike and get it registered (tricky process sometimes!) , you have scored a brand new bike. You become day 1 owner.
Both GT125R (05-2012) to GT125RC (new shape models circa 2013/2014-2022) are all carb models.
In a nut shell
- Same Engine. Same Speed.
- Newer Model has smaller flywheel & custom made by Korea (it requires specific stators)
- Regulators = Old Gen has smaller & New Reg a bit bigger = For 125cc it is the 2nd annoying electric object after the side stand switch.
- RC = All new harness , not backwards compatible with old gen clocks or old gen harness
- RC = Dash has white face dials and orange LCD/White LCD (Old Gen = Jet Black clocks all over with GREEN Letters)
- RC = Rear Subframe is slimmer, only accepts new gen plastics and new gen seats.
- RC & Old Gen = Both front frames have the same mounting points for headlight cages ( you can use old or new face )
- RC Face = Accepts only diamond shape headlight & has its own brackets to link to the lower panels (doesn’t accept old gen brackets)
- RC Lower Panels vs Old Gen Lower Panels (the big ones hiding the engine) == They are identical
- RC Engine = Slightly slower (82mph indicated brand new)
- Old Gen Engine = Slightly more beefier , Grey Colour, has BIG DADDY style cam tensioners behind each engine = 88 max indicated (78-82 gps- ish…. )
- Old vs RC = Same carbs since 2005
- Same Fuel Pump
- RC = Has weaker KYB Shock. Use old Gen shock. it is much better built.
- Old Gen = Swingarm paint survives a little better but both bikes will love you if you get them a hugger and also get their swingarms powdercoated. Paint wise, the swingarms are the weakest but then again , wettest area on bike too! 🤐
- RC Engine = Does not tolerate bad mods or weak batteries / reg or fouling plugs or carbs = It will refuse to start or take ages cranking… Meticulous thing it is…
- Old Gen Engine = Doesn’t like bad behavior from mechanics you give her to , but it will “try to start” and get you home but will be in a mood the next day.
- Both Engines have 8 valves and they like their clearances checked every 4k miles as per korea or they actually force themselves to drop the overall top speed & they accelerate slower.
- Both are big girls, they like stronger 520 chain kits, less chance of snapping as 428 chains stretch easy (cost cutting for mass produced bike that’s all as a good 520 costs more than 428)
- Again both big girls, make sure clutch is good or pimp out 🙂 (some owners ignore this and 20,000 miles later one of their plates have popped!)
If you do change your mind, we do have intake pipes for sale on ebay , just send us an email about it
Otherwise shame to see it go away from you , just as spring season is officially here now!
Hmmm,
Any history books or documents from previous owner to show what work has been done to it etc ?
Also is the warranty still active ? If so, you should have papers for it so that the original shop that sold it can get replacements for free as it’s not your fault the gauge is acting funny , it should not be acting funny as it’s Korea’s newest model (literally as they just stopped making the older carb versions of the Gv125 bikes)
Yes you can on the “Buy & Sell” section for sure but don’t expose your true address or contact info, so ofcourse any potential buyers will have to PM you for more.
But pictures of parts are all welcome 👍
Thanks, Marcel. I will try to contact “Alan M”. Kind regards.
He has replied but it went to my email (noreply@hyoriders is also used for notifications) , so let him know to send you a message through website instead 🙂
Hey,
Check this topic below for my recent replies.Then come back here to your topic and let us know steps you took and what’s its doing etc… You can go in as much detail as you like, i will understand do not worry.
It should be neutral switch.
In the past people thought cutting the green wire was to cheat the CDI to gain more power , absolute nonsense it was.
Your 125cc will have a 2PIN plug for the Neutral Sensor under the sprocket…..but follow me here…
- The Plug is 2Pins (black colour) but only the “Blue” wire is coming from the neutral sensor itself.
This is NORMAL. No cause for concern. Korea did this. As the 125cc did not need it especially for UK models. - Your harness itself , will have the “Female Plug” to join your neutral sensor
The female will have 2 wires (Green and Blue!)
Green is not needed. - Sometimes it was a common occurance in the past bikes actually had 2pin Neutral Sensors from Korea (with both wires) (carb models)
Fuel Injected models of the bigger bikes (650/250) have always had 2pin plugs with both wires both ways (sensor & harness)
Make sure your plug and CDI and harness do not expose the wires as the weather is not forgiving, and hyosungs generally don’t like water invasions on electrics , it is their weakness.
I’ve changed the fuel pump and the tank tap, I have a little bit of fuel in my fuel filter but it’s still not starting
When you crank the bike , hold the button for 5 seconds max. Then wait 10-20 seconds for starter motor to cool down. Then do it again.
Do NOT twist throttle yet , you want the engine to draw more fuel in to the filter that’s why.
Still struggling to start?
Get someone first to lift your tank and “hold it” nicely , do not disconnect pipes or anything like that , and they must not pull the tank , just lift it nicely off its cushions and tilt it towards the back
Now you can see your airbox
Get to halfords ===> Buy “YELLOW” colour only BRADEX EASY START can.
Spray crazy amounts of it (yes go crazy with it) ===> in to the air filter ….
Now start your bike with full choke.
While starting it , you have 5 seconds to twist the throttle up & down a million times (how fast can you twist up and down?)
If it has spark, it will scream to life and the choke system will try to enrich the bike and keep it at 4k revs
After 2mins of 4k revs, slowly reduce the choke. And it should start to idle at 1500 rpm (1,000-1,2000 rpm ICE cold is OK!)
Wait 10 mins max (in this current weather before riding) , the engine should be warm and oil is hot circulating now , revs will go to 1500rpm by themselves.
Hope i made sense ?
Try a new tap and pump , if fuel comes by the engine crank vacuum , it will fill up the fuel filter
Ok no problem thank you for your reply I will just take it in a see how it goes on another note last owner did away with front indactors and instead fitted mirrors with built in indactors have you any idea if this would be a problem with mot or should this be fine thanks
It should be fine as long can be seen working those indicators 🙂
How to find the tutorials for air and fuel?
Here you go 🙂
How to upgrade Fuel Lines & Filter on Hyosung GT125R GT250R (Carb Hose Diagram)
How to change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)
On the GTR, there is 2x adjusters behind the headlight box. Its done gently with a thumb screw , as they break off easy
This website says your MOT garage will need a specialist equipment to check aim is right, some old bikes sit high , some old bikes sit low, there isn’t a proper universal rule now no thanks to GOV change rules as they see fit. I’m not an MOT Tester , but i just fix bikes and the MOT guys check what i do before customer gets his bike back 😉
However, generally , the korean’s set the aim just fine and we don’t tend to touch it again , unless last owner was fiddling about.
I’d say yes as the garage I went was actually a honda garage and they should have known better but they shut shop just before the pandemic. To be honest, all motorcycle garages here are terrible. they’ve all bodged something up and facebook is filled with stories even with common bikes. I think as a rule most just work on their own bikes here. plus 82 quid an hour isn’t worth it to install 2 plugs, throw some pads on and a put some oil in.
WHAT!!!!!
82 quid per hour! for 2 plugs ?
Sorry but you will get a wayyyy more premium service with us for way less.
Yikes!
I will send your goods soon, but bare with me for extra 2 working days , i think we just had in influx of EGR blank orders, so gonna ring supply chain to send a big box again 🙂 , when you get the usual “dispatch” email, it means goods are with your postie 🙂
Hi. Thx. Theres lots of things that need checking. Might just throw it in a garage and see what they say. Its becoming a nightmare
it’s overwhelming i know but do your best to study it in the flesh and read the books, and just overhaul one small thing at a time!
Hey if the garage is crazy or takes shortcuts (makes it worse or lies) , just bring it to us but i hope it doesn’t come to that! (If it does, send us an email about private arrangements)
This public forum is still open for any support questions you might have. ofcourse pics help a ton too.
Good luck, we’re getting somewhere, there is light at the end of tunnel 🙂
Well good and bad news. Good is mystery solved. Bad news is 100psi not enough to start engine. I put tablespoon stp thick oil in both spark plug holes, rose compression to 120, 125 psi cold. Plugs in and it started. Of course burning oil lol out of cylinders. So, need rings and cylinder jugs it seems. I bet someone ran this on low to no oil because low mileage 8,444 miles only… Ih well.. thank you all.
Save her 🙂
Have you got a link to a stator for a 2015 gt125 tv up graded one as I can’t find one
Uprated Magneto Stator Generator :: For “GT125 RC” 2010-2018 Hyosung {Custom Kit}
Add
Fresh Oil (of your choice. Motul 7100 and Silkolene Pro 4 are my favs)
Oil Filter Kit (always) (it’s at the shop too)
