2016 GT250R error codes
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- This topic has 24 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 8 months ago by
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I bought a used 2016 GT250R a few days ago that had come from a police auction. Aside from the obligatory mystery pinhole leak under the tank, obvious mistreatment damage such as busted peg, home repaired peg mount, fuel cap keyhole busted out, missing start button, etc, the thing will start by jumping the solenoid under the seat, but will only stay running after repeated starts and it will die if I increase the throttle. It won’t reach 3000 rpm without dying.
Amazingly there do not seem to be any wiring splices or hot-wiring done at all, nor are there any other leaks aside from the underside of the fuel tank. That said, when I turn the key on/off to get error codes on it I see FI on the LCD and the F1 light it gives me this:
10 5 10 5 10 1 3 1 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 10 1 3 7 10 5 10 10 10 and it repeats.
I found the 4 and 2 pin jacks under the rear seat and attempted to bridge the 2 pin jack to see if it would give me an error readout on the display but I get nothing different.
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light it gives me this: 10 5 10 5 10 1 3 1 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 10 1 3 7 10 5 10 10 10 and it repeats.
Hopefully this is correct as i had to try decipher these numbers in block stages, as the bike is reporting multiple faults at once. These are in order of your numbers but i excluded some as i could decipher them correctly, as number 10 was missing for some of them. Notice that the sequence starts with 10 blinks first.
10 5 10 5 [Idle Speed Control Sensor Faulty] if its 10-5-10-5-10-5-5 this exact blinking sequence , explains the idling issues and running issues, it is the unit that has 3 pipes sucking the airbox and feeding the injector bodies filtered air (kinda needed to for injectors when throttle is shut)
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10 1 3 1 (O2 Lambda Sensors Front not-user repairable, try to clean them to see what happens unless its a dead dodo)
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10 1 7 1 7 1 10 Engine Temp Sensor Unit (inside the front cylinder next to throttle body or just very bad contacts – extremely sensetive part due to oxidization of pins – ====================
10 1 3 7 [Rear Exhaust Lambda Sensor]
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10 5 10 10 10 [Speed Sensor Faulty = its on your fork leg at the front left of the wheel, could need a strip down and proper clean up or replace it if beyond repair and it repeats.
Hopefully this helps!
Youtube video was handy!
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the 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 is actually 10 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 somehow I put an extra 71 in there
10 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 = The closest i can decipher is 10 1 1 7 x 2 = Temp Sensor , so probably still refering to the same part , if the Temp Sensor was not working or oxidized contacts , the ECU won’t know the cylinder temps to adjust injection system , could explain why it runs in “limp” mode to discourage higer revs or die quickly forcing the user to investigate. The good part is that the ECU must stay intact , no liquids near the sockets , just a compressed air in to every ECU pin will help reduce resistance (if the Engine said hey the sensor is 80 ohms at 45 Celcius , that signal going down the plug oxdized , ecu plug oxidized , etc , might read as 120 ohms at the ECU side, it will panic and go a little haywire , also the forum should have a service manual for either GT650 or 250 to check the TPS as that would be key too, there is a diagram for it , it could directly affect what the ECU does next
I could not decipher 1 7 4 , but if you work towards overhauling the parts, while the ECU is disconnected, it should report less errors I am hoping! -
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Rears are special as they have bigger holes and use plates to lock in and lock out as you have seen on yours.
Here is the front one below, same place you got the ET sensor from:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255956878875 -
I installed a new fuel tank cap assembly today and found and repaired the pin hole on the bottom of the tank with JB Weld. It will. take a day to cure. My O2, Neutral Gear Idle, Speed Control, and Temp Sensors will arrive today in the post. The 2nd temp sensor, from the UK, will be here in about a week. I had not realized when I made an order for Idle and speed controls that there was also a temp sensor in that lot. Good to have regardless.
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I have a question: In the top photo of the underside of the tank, there are 2 spouts coming out. One by the fuel level sensor and one at the bottom of the photo. The one at the bottom of the photo has a hose that attaches to it near the front of the bike. I am guessing for fuel overflow. The one by the fuel level sensor looks like it has never had anything on it and there was no hose attached. Is there supposed to be something attached to it?
The JB Weld is cured now but I have not put it back on the bike and added fuel yet to test it. From what I could see when I did the repair there was just a single tiny pinhole where fuel was leaking and I have a couple of inches of JB weld on all sides of it. The other JB Weld patches are where there was no paint and I put it on “just in case.”
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- You cannot reply to this topic.
Any future maintenance tips, technical news, or occasional short tutorials will be posted directly on our official blog here.
- This topic has 24 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 8 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
I bought a used 2016 GT250R a few days ago that had come from a police auction. Aside from the obligatory mystery pinhole leak under the tank, obvious mistreatment damage such as busted peg, home repaired peg mount, fuel cap keyhole busted out, missing start button, etc, the thing will start by jumping the solenoid under the seat, but will only stay running after repeated starts and it will die if I increase the throttle. It won’t reach 3000 rpm without dying.
Amazingly there do not seem to be any wiring splices or hot-wiring done at all, nor are there any other leaks aside from the underside of the fuel tank. That said, when I turn the key on/off to get error codes on it I see FI on the LCD and the F1 light it gives me this:
10 5 10 5 10 1 3 1 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 10 1 3 7 10 5 10 10 10 and it repeats.
I found the 4 and 2 pin jacks under the rear seat and attempted to bridge the 2 pin jack to see if it would give me an error readout on the display but I get nothing different.
-
-
light it gives me this: 10 5 10 5 10 1 3 1 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 10 1 3 7 10 5 10 10 10 and it repeats.
Hopefully this is correct as i had to try decipher these numbers in block stages, as the bike is reporting multiple faults at once. These are in order of your numbers but i excluded some as i could decipher them correctly, as number 10 was missing for some of them. Notice that the sequence starts with 10 blinks first.
10 5 10 5 [Idle Speed Control Sensor Faulty] if its 10-5-10-5-10-5-5 this exact blinking sequence , explains the idling issues and running issues, it is the unit that has 3 pipes sucking the airbox and feeding the injector bodies filtered air (kinda needed to for injectors when throttle is shut)
========
10 1 3 1 (O2 Lambda Sensors Front not-user repairable, try to clean them to see what happens unless its a dead dodo)
================
10 1 7 1 7 1 10 Engine Temp Sensor Unit (inside the front cylinder next to throttle body or just very bad contacts – extremely sensetive part due to oxidization of pins – ====================
10 1 3 7 [Rear Exhaust Lambda Sensor]
===============
10 5 10 10 10 [Speed Sensor Faulty = its on your fork leg at the front left of the wheel, could need a strip down and proper clean up or replace it if beyond repair and it repeats.
Hopefully this helps!
Youtube video was handy!
-
-
the 10 1 7 1 7 1 10 is actually 10 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 somehow I put an extra 71 in there
10 1 7 1 10 1 7 4 = The closest i can decipher is 10 1 1 7 x 2 = Temp Sensor , so probably still refering to the same part , if the Temp Sensor was not working or oxidized contacts , the ECU won’t know the cylinder temps to adjust injection system , could explain why it runs in “limp” mode to discourage higer revs or die quickly forcing the user to investigate. The good part is that the ECU must stay intact , no liquids near the sockets , just a compressed air in to every ECU pin will help reduce resistance (if the Engine said hey the sensor is 80 ohms at 45 Celcius , that signal going down the plug oxdized , ecu plug oxidized , etc , might read as 120 ohms at the ECU side, it will panic and go a little haywire , also the forum should have a service manual for either GT650 or 250 to check the TPS as that would be key too, there is a diagram for it , it could directly affect what the ECU does next
I could not decipher 1 7 4 , but if you work towards overhauling the parts, while the ECU is disconnected, it should report less errors I am hoping! -
-
-
-
Rears are special as they have bigger holes and use plates to lock in and lock out as you have seen on yours.
Here is the front one below, same place you got the ET sensor from:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255956878875 -
I installed a new fuel tank cap assembly today and found and repaired the pin hole on the bottom of the tank with JB Weld. It will. take a day to cure. My O2, Neutral Gear Idle, Speed Control, and Temp Sensors will arrive today in the post. The 2nd temp sensor, from the UK, will be here in about a week. I had not realized when I made an order for Idle and speed controls that there was also a temp sensor in that lot. Good to have regardless.
-
-
-
I have a question: In the top photo of the underside of the tank, there are 2 spouts coming out. One by the fuel level sensor and one at the bottom of the photo. The one at the bottom of the photo has a hose that attaches to it near the front of the bike. I am guessing for fuel overflow. The one by the fuel level sensor looks like it has never had anything on it and there was no hose attached. Is there supposed to be something attached to it?
The JB Weld is cured now but I have not put it back on the bike and added fuel yet to test it. From what I could see when I did the repair there was just a single tiny pinhole where fuel was leaking and I have a couple of inches of JB weld on all sides of it. The other JB Weld patches are where there was no paint and I put it on “just in case.”
-
-
- You cannot reply to this topic.