♠️ M77
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I believe the “Select” button changes the brightness , otherwise the dash may be getting sun burnt slowly
You could remove the outer shell & change the pespex glass (custom work!)
It’s a very technical job to try change the SMD LEDs used on the circuit board , but some lights may be intergrated inside the actual LCD screen like phones. I personally have not taken apart an actual LCD unit off the circuit board as it’s something I haven’t experienced myself yet (The UK is too dull & dark to worry about screen brightness most of the time)
Brake Pads = Go on Amazon and look for “EBC FA86” That’s the pads. EBC is one of our favourite trusted brands (They make pads in UK & USA) ,
China Pads = Hit & Miss = Some may disconnect themselves off the metal plates! (Been through it, i will never do it again. I will stick with EBC)
You have either:
– Wiring issues (not enough juice flowing on the wires going the sensors mentioned in the tester thing you have) , new harness or remove it complete and clean every part of it with contact cleaner – do the same for the sensors connected to it.
You should have less errors. The ECU is annoyed hence it will keep cutting offAnd make sure even the battery is properly charged & the regulator is doing “Minimum” 14v to it (no less) (even if it’s idling)
Fuse boxes may be rusty too. Including relays.
Or
the parts themselves mentioned have issues / faulty (temperamental behavior). Ie, faulty coil means it works then it dies.
Or
ECU itself has gone faulty , I hope it doesn’t come to that!
Do you have a daytime picture ?
Or upload a video to GoogleDrive/OneDrive then post the “public share link” here.If Ben see’s this topic , and still has it, then he should email me to share his details to your email to sort it amongst yourselves (won’t be a good idea to share private details on a public forum to protect each other’s privacy). I took down the private-messaging feature as i am making a new one that’s more efficient, sorry about that.
It will use the same bulbs as the R version but it may only need 2 or 3
(As Hyosung updated the classic clusters twice) (Sometimes the fuel guage lights up with its own bulb or shared with the rev-counter, but MPH/KMH dial always has its own lighting)Speedometer Instrument Cluster Backlight Bulbs Set – Hyosung GT125R GT250R GT650R
I could grab a few and post them to you ? I forgot the exact names of them as i am on a short new year break.
If in a hurry , pull out the bulb and quickly run to a car shop, they will match it for you. Those bulbs are also used in much older cars before the LED’s became standard.
You can upload videos to Google Drive, OneDrive , or iCloud i believe = Then get “share links” to post them here for public viewing.
I will upload your old videos to Youtube (as unlisted so they won’t be found on youtube search) so it’s easier to play it. (not all android devices canplay “apple” files , so its easier uploading to the cloud drives and they will convert them for public play. Sorry for digressing
I still need to know what’s going on with the situation of restoring the original airbox system back on the bike?
If you look at your current lever vs the XRT ones , you will see the XRT as actually better for the GT bikes with the Gen1 fairing. For Gen2 (2012+) , your lever wouldn’t really bother them that’s why. I’ve yet to find a brand that does better than XRT,
Unless you go use Pazzo levers and master cylinders used on Hondas (expect trial & error!)
Some harleys cannons will fit , their newer models have slim twin cans, but i don’t know their measurments. So it will be trial & error. Also you may need to get someone to make you custom reducer and brackets (eg. 31mm slip on can to 34mm engine header pipes) to fuse them in to your own bike.
I would recommend finding a bike OEM cans as if you use aftermarket cherry bombs (short shorty cans) you WILL lose power. The bike gets annoyingly loud too lol.Happy new year all
You too fella 🙂
Push the master cylinder further AWAY from the throttle switch gear.
Ie…. [top yoke]____[cylinder]___[switch gear]
Then push it away from the switch like so…
[top yoke][cylinder]___[switch gear]Once done, rotate the cylinder FORWARD towards the front tyre , but leave clearance by about 1mm margin, so it will be tight..but hopefully this should help.
The only leaver that requires no messing around is Korea’s approved XRT Levers (XRT is based in Korea & are the “official” accessories maker for the GT bikes) but costly though!
Happy new year Jim!
Likewise to you fella, stay sharp on the streets!
It will be hard without doing custom work to the bike involving some kind of piggyback ECU or aftermarket part to make up for the fact that airbox deletes means more air in the system but injectors are still flowing at the same rate. Engine will cook slowly and if the exhaust is too short , it affects backpressure a little bit , so it may feel a little less torquey or more “flat” if you will.
Perharps , find lighter exhausts off recent harley models and get someone to fabricate custom headers , if harley can get away with using slimmer pipes on a delphi unit ( i believe one of their models uses a delphi unit) , you could rob their exhaust setup but… the ecu may be tuned by them to deal with it. Unless you know how to access the ECU with a PC or know someone locally who does harley flash tunes, he may take a look at your ECU , do a few dyno runs with different setups OEM vs Aftermarket parts , they can tune the bike appropriately. There is a guy in Australia called Hyosung Performance Tuning , he loves his GV’s and is know to flash tune ECU’s (I dont know if you are close to him or not, as you did not mention location in your post) (Don’t worry I am fixing the forum profile pages this week!)
Pod Filters = Hyosungs have historically hated them and always ran rough , i suppose you could leave the air system as it is since the big box is tucked away under the tank and the airbox above the engine doesn’t weigh much, the bike won’t notice that kind of weight unless you are racing on a track where every milli second counts.
Biggest weight is also the wheels = here this is a totally custom job on how to find light wheels off other bikes and retrofit them to the Hyosung (lots of studying + trial and error here!) also keep in mind the speed sensor on the front wheel wants a Hyosung rim , it won’t spin on other rims to count speed unless you find a 1:1 replacement rim that slots in the Hyosung speed sensor without messing around.
Just some thoughts at 1am (im about to head to bed haha) & some ideas here! – I may have a better answer when I am more wide awake
Hapy holidays & new years 2025 in advance!
Video sounds good. I hate to say it , Historically Hyosungs since 2000 have always hated pod filter setups , so maybe start by putting the original airbox back and original filter?
Also if there is too many changes to the air system = ECU will not adjust completely as Hyosung themselves set the ECU to expect to run efficiently on its OEM parts including the injectors (i am currently studying upgrade options to the injectors so that they output a little more fuel to stop the bike leaning out on full throttle)
I would also advise doing compression tests after the engine is warm with both spark plugs out. You said it was getting worse , we don’t know if your compression is getting lower (due to bike leaning out & running hotter from that air system change , thus piston ring woes likely) . Maybe on rainy days , some wet air was sucked in to the engine over time (it looks exposed)
Just some thoughts here , keep us postedon that video situation
Can you elaborate on what it is actually doing from the moment you turn it on ? and how much of a mood is it in while riding before it gives up ? So i can point out what the issues might be. Even information on how it idles on stand still ?
What colour are the spark plugs ? are the CR8E or some other code name etc..
Did the coils change? (rear one fails commonly, so do a swap test)
Does it have black HT caps ? (get rid of them and use NGK ones!) – Nothing but trouble those thingsYour ECU is discontinued, it’s the early type (circa 2017-2018) , before they all changed to the updated delphi units including all wiring harnesses changed (not backwards compatible) and most sensors changed. The fact that it runs (even starts the bike) means not all hope is lost on that unit. So i would address it as last item to worry about
Can you post a picture of your ECU?
There is no public wiring diagram as of yet but then again, it shouldn’t be too hard to fix unless the ECU is toast.
It’s best you make a new topic if you can please , so it’s easier to follow your bike alone. 👍
Happy holidays!
If you see, this reply, use the contact form below please:
This is so that we can fix your old account, as there was a minor bug that made you anonymous – Once resolved , respond back here please.
Topic closed, as Simon replied to a duplicate one you just made.
Ride Safe!
I would be shocked as to why a NEW gasket kit would cause a bike not to start again, that’s bizzare! – He did something that he does not want to admit , because it’s a GV Aquila 125 Carby, let me tell you this … It is VERY stressful to “perfectly” align the airbox , hence we did tutorials for it.
I suspect….
- Intake O-Ring has smudged or crapped up , during refitting it (if you see our tutorial , you will see why its an easy mistake to make)
- If he didn’t remove the carbs or airbox out of the bike, and did the rebuild kit while the carbs were in situ, then likely floating dust got in the carbs before he closed it all up
- The “middle big snorkel” that connects the top airbox and the side-right airboxes may be loose.
It sounds stupid, but I’ve worked on many customer GV125 bikes, they are VERY fussy to start if something is amiss during refitting parts back, so it’s worth having a look, and if it does run, you may be leaking out air or loosing vacumm through one part of the intake system that’s loose or missing (ie. o-ring under in the intake pipe by the cylinder heads)
Maybe the fuel filter is facing the wrong way when the tank was fitted back in ?
55=60 mph uphill is decent, and now it’s doing less, i would get the mech sort out what he did and pay the collection fees.
As a side note:
- When it’s warm , get compression readings (important!) = Both plugs must be out , crank bike at full throttle. Tell us the PSI on each cylinder
- Valve clearances ? (as per manual its around every 4k to inspect or change tappets) (The longer it goes without it done, the more MPH it looses and it gets harder to start)
- Clutch = Big girl fella, the 125 plates wear down almost the same rate as the front caliper pads do , hence manual repeats that around 4k ish , check the clutch “measure the plates” , and “measure the springs” , clutch fatigue will drop power.
Simon’s right though , takes a day to sort the carbs out , unless he was waiting for parts or doing engine clearances the same time (since engine was exposed, would be a good time to check clearances as a good measure for servicing to alert the customer if engine still in spec or not)
I don’t know what your local stores are like in Australia , but browse the shop on this site and see if one of our coils matches your bike (Hyosung makes different ones based on ECU, ie. Delphi takes Delphi coils which we have started to list this week) , or an NGK wholeseller locally and show him a picture of the NGK caps we stock up , that’s if you are in a mega hurry
WhyGoStock does similar if you want to use a US source , i rarely mention other sources like HyoAU, HyoNZ , HyoEU etc as they are the same design , same scammer that loads of people have complained about.
Magnecor HT wires are common on Amazon UK, so it should on Amazon AU ?
If not send us an email if need anything from us.
Or , try a local salvage breaker and go to their bikes in the yard that may have 2nd NGK caps on them (just avoid plastic caps as they WILL crack), and possibly a Hyosung that has the same coils as you, take a meter with you and test their resistance if they allow it.
It’s the Xmas rush & new years, so things are a bit slow in UK even to ship stuff abroad ourselves, if you don’t mind the extra wait.
