♠️ M77
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Winter Time (under 15 *C temps in the air) , basically cold days = 10w40 is fine. I would get Silkolene Pro 4 or Comp 4
Actually find any oil that has ESTER (that’s usually Silkolene Pro 4 or Comp 4) or (Motul 7100 , 300V)
Fully synth is best.
10w30 is too thin, it will break down faster than a 10w40 would.
Personally i prefer to use Motul 7100 at 10w50 or 10w60 all year round even on hot summers. It’s “probably” the best oil for the hyo twins. (Though the manual says use “more expensive oil if you can” to extend engine life)
Why 10w50 (50/60 means it can break down less than a 40 grade)
“10w” only , don’t get 5w , 15w, 20w ==== 10w is the perfect spot. 5w is like water. 20w is like sludge, too thick. Stay on 10w(40/50/60)
Silkolene Super 4 = Use this only if you can’t get the better ones (Comp 4 / Pro 4)
Hope that helps
Usually Hyosung sells direct to dealer or trader if the bike is still in warranty, so your mechanic could have had some “idea” as to how long it will take for them to get it.
Contact us here , we might try to rapidly get one for you , please confirm in the email it is a “SEAL” as we can’t return parts to the factory if it was incorrectly ordered (ie your mechanic gave false info).
oooooh i see!
– Take your time, get your friend to take a nice clear picture of it again without zooming with his finger or screwdriver pointing at it.
I hope a rock didn’t try to pop the casing!
That’s a lot happening there!
Can you put the battery in (make sure its charged) , then i know it sounds stupid , but remove all connectors and parts from the bike, and clean their connectors (plugs) , as even a small resistance or corrosion issue makes even a 2 volt drop somewhere. I had to deal with the bike not starting 2 days ago, i cleaned the bulb connectors as lights come on right away and also the fuse needed changed (the 15A one) , it might not be your issue but damn, the EFI bikes definitely like the connectors to be free of rust or oxidization issues, it makes it easier on the ECU too
Try that again and see if the bike responds better?
Also , disconnect the “starter solenoid 2pin mini plug” to stop the starter spinning, when putting the battery in.
If the bike cranks without you pressing “start” , then replace that solenoid.
Remove the relay that powers the headlights (so the front lights are off) ==> check battery is 13.5V idling , put the relay back in while running, if the volts drop to 12.x ish , replace battery or checkj lighting circuit.
I mention lights often as they already draw power as soon as the bike turns on! The fuel pump is the most power hungry,if it sounds funny , consider taking it out and be sure the “strainer” isnt clogged up or the pump unit itself needing a change,
Sometimes idling issues can point to the pump or injectors, if not , download the service manual on this site that matches your bike and get an error code displayed and tell us what it is.
Keep us posted!
Okay , the holes I see inside the rubber intake pipes are air flow to the outside pipes that connect your vacuum system for the fuel pump
If you have an EGR , you can delete it to reduce the amount of air pipes there. I can link you to a tutorial if you havent found it on this site.
If you need diagrams for fuel pipes and vacuum i can link you to them
Thanks for the video
If missed something else , take a screen shot and circle the area that needs attention.
Go on youtube => upload it as “UNLISTED” (hidden on youtube searches) => copy the share link in to here.
Of if you are on Android > Upload to Google Drive => Set video to “Public” and share the link here
If you have Hotmail (Live/MSN) => Do the same as google ^ but on OneDrive
Instagram allows sharing stories feel free to upload there.
I should program the site once again to be able to accept big files , probably in 2025 when i do a minor facelift to the forum.
Can he take a video or pics so he can send you then paste it here ?
Hey glad you sorted that out, be sure to remove it and apply “contact” cleaner on it and make sure the “plug” is out of sight so that the front tyre doesnt chuck so much water at it.
Then use grease on the actual kickstand & it’s attached switch down there so that it doesn’t seize up since it moves all the time (stand down, stand up, stand down, etc…)
Not shown in the manual but i got this image from a parts database , and whatever number you see , let us know what you are not sure of.
Someone on this forum bought a 650R that had a Suzuki (can’t remember which one) CDI and suzuki harness crossed-joined up with hyosung one, it was so messy he was forced to get the Jap CDI which Hyosung uses and matching Hyosung harness. The bike was not interested to know alternatives.
So in the end , he ended up just getting a 650 CDI for Hyosung (not suzuki) and another 650 harness for Hyosung 650R
If i knew a direct fit CDI that runs smoothly on the GT650 , I would make a sticky topic about it.
Look for my reply with a picture here
This is the correct way because the manual has errors with carb information,
Adjustments can be done incrementally on the float tangs
Also, clear pipe , drain bowl loosened , look at the float bowl has _______ lines like that ______ , thats fuel height , you can have the clear hose against it to see if the fuel level is the same or carb is overflow on one pot or the other.
Yup that’s the one, please let me know how much you want for it.
It’s a bit too dark to make out what is going on, so the dealer may just replace the coolant reservoir or the overflow system. – Hopefully there isn’t “air” locks in the system.
They say “common” because the bikes come in a crate that is dry of liquids sometimes, so some dealers assemble fluids in to the bike including fuel , and do pre-tests before sitting in the showroom floor. Or it was run-in poorly , Every Hyosung that is under 600 miles from new should have a FULL once over by the dealer to ensure everything works as intended otherwise Hyosung would ask questions as to why they should send parts if the dealer didn’t keep an eye , unless the owners abused it or didn’t follow the “Owners Manual” that comes with the bike itself. There is variables….
I sell more clutch parts for the 125 EFI because i have Garages emailing me asking me for baskets that owners abused (trying to wheelie a vtwin or whatever) or just being neglectful.
If there is a bike that has not gone through proper checks at the factory , it is Hyosung to fix that and do re-calls!
Believe me, a dash (that is all black) even black RPM gauge = will NOT live long on the Gen 2 harness
You may also end up damaging the Gen 2 harness , no where on earth to buy a new harness now as Hyosung stopped making carb models.
Hell we can’t even run a Gen2 250cc clocks in to 125cc , the bike doesn’t want to know lol.
Like i said, email me if you need it then i will get to it. It know it is there , it is just hidden away in a remote location miles away. It’s got 5K on the clocks , its just i had to deal with higher priority things this week.
This is the one that has ORANGE LCD with WHITE RPM gauge.
Strange , visit ManualsLIB website again and use GV250 or GV125 service manual yes the 125cc version uses the same clearances as its 250cc sister. The system used is “Suzuki Cam Under Bucket” (Shims in a Tappet)” , so its definitely advised to use the service manual.
If fuel is coming out of that straw, you have jammed float seats (so replace the entire float pin and float seat even, since the float pin has a spring inside) , then use make sure floats are 7mm height and it will raise up to about 13-17mm when the bike is running
However, look at my reply in this topic
if it is adamant the float system is OK, then look to check the slides (diaphragms) are not stuck as fuel will come of the Slide Needle as the revs go up
Also check the slide needles are in correct position using this guide
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
I will have a Gen 2 , send me an email. But it may be a few days before I can get to it, but it is there yes.
Gen 1 for Gen 1 = Gen 1 WILL go up in smoke if forced in to Gen 2 , trust me!
If it still has warranty, it would be best to arrange for the dealer to pick it up themselves since they have to honor the warranty without you having to fork out money but it does suck you live apart from them , and ofcourse, some dealers do not cover transport fees, so it’s always worth asking them!
If there is a coolant leak , how are you sure the water pump is at fault ? how about the radiator itself , hoses or even the radiator cap or reservoir bottle ? …just making sure its not a misdiagnosis to save you replacing the wrong part when it was something small all along. But if its the pump, that’s serious.
Any pictures? (dry up the bike first and clean it off, then stop the engine as soon as the leak appears, take a picture)
Those vacuum routing methods are good. Each cylinder has enough vacuum to run each tap and pump independently.
Check “ManualsLIB” website , they have the WorkShop Manual which has cartoon diagrams of how to do clearances. All Hyosung 250cc vtwins are the same (Carb & EFI until 2020) when it comes to valve adjustments.
Puddle in airbox = If its OIL (it could be blowby gasses mixed with oil during heat and finally condensed in to an oily liquid
If its fuel , it will be very obvious and smell strong of it and usually pure fuel will cut through the oil and turn the oil in to a water like substance , it may appear black or almost colourless. Check air filter. Again, i could guess as i can’t see what’s going on, so you should examine the texture of that liquid.
Some engine gasses are OK, but a flood like puddle in the airbox isn’t good. Either oil or fuel.
Engine Compression is very good!
TPS = It looks OK , the manual says replace it if it causes problems because we can’t manually make adjustments to it.EGR = Just make sure the actual engine cylinders are blanked there.
Then Front & Rear Rubber Intake pipes from the cylinder heads feed the Tank Tap and Fuel Pump
Check airbox has an extra hole for the EGR is blanked off.
Do the valve clearances and see how it behaves.
If you remove the carbs again and the intake pipes are wet inside, you may have a slow leak in to cylinders due to jammed floats or float seat assemblies needing a replacement, could be what is happening to the rear cylinder of the engine.
