Description
When you split your twin fuel mixers down on the workbench for a thorough solvent clean, tiny structural pins are incredibly easy to drop or find completely locked solid with green petrol scaling. A seized or missing hinge post means your fuel mechanism cannot swing freely up and down, resulting in massive fuel starvation or messy cylinder flooding. Sourcing a high-accuracy aftermarket Hyosung carburettor float pin is the ideal way to avoid these fueling headaches. Produced in exclusive batches to assist bike restorations, these replacement rods ensure your needle valves seat reliably on everyday roads.
💎 FUEL MIXER HARDWARE HYOSUNG CARBURETTOR FLOAT PIN SPECIFICATIONS
| Frictionless Outer WallGround smooth to stop the plastic float sleeve from binding or sticking midway through a stroke. | Corrosion Proof MetalResists fuel additive deposits and water moisture sitting inside the bottom of the float bowl. |
| Multi-Model Cross MatchSized to fit perfectly across standard 125cc and 250cc twin-barrel carburettor bodies. | True Factory BlueprintReplaces old original parts matching factory designation code: 13378HG5100. |
📜 CONFIRMED FITMENT COUPLING ON THE HYOSUNG CARBURETTOR FLOAT PIN
Analogue Carburetted V-Twin Groups: Drop-in diameter verified for the slide-carb fuel systems listed below. This part is positioned as item #74 in our schematic gallery breakdown.
- Hyosung GT125 / GT125R Sport: Fits all carb models.
- Hyosung GT250 / GT250R Sport: Fits all carb models up to 2007.
- Hyosung GV125 / GV250 Aquila Cruiser: Fits all carburetted cruisers up to 2017.
- Fuel-Injected Blocks: This cannot be used on modern electronic EFI fuel systems. Throttle bodies do not run float bowl assemblies.
🔧 INSTALL TIPS FOR A SECURE HYOSUNG CARBURETTOR FLOAT PIN FITMENT
- Check Your Chamber Float Heights: A dead-straight pin is absolutely vital to setting your fuel float height correctly (measured to approximately 7mm from the gasket face). A bent or binding rod will throw off your fueling measurements and disrupt engine idle stability.
- Use Zero Force: Gently slide the metal shaft into the mounting blocks by hand. Never use a heavy hammer or drift punch to drive the rod home into the aluminum body pillars, or you risk cracking the brittle alloy posts or breaking the plastic ears on the float assembly.
- Clear Out the Channels: Make certain the internal bore of the plastic float sleeve is perfectly clear of dried fuel varnish or sticky gunk before you slip the shaft inside. If it catches at all, use an aerosol carburettor cleaning spray to blast out the passage until it falls through under its own weight.














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