Chris
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I took the loom out which goes from the main harness to the sensors and injectors, cleaned all the connectors, also double checked all the pipes. Re-assembled and seems ok.
I couldn’t find anything wrong with the harness, and even though all seems OK I have this doubt about it, but I’ll see how’s things go.
Need to do a few other small jobs and then put her in for MOT if she keeps idling ok.
Very close to getting her back on the road for the first time since about 2018.
Not that I’m aware, but will check, will swop the sensors over to rule out if it’s sensor or something else.
Out of interest I just disconnected the rear IAP pipe and hey presto she idles. Pretty smoother but not enough to read a good voltage from the sensor, but both appear to read about the same.
tomorriw I’m going to swop the sensors over that way I can rule out the pipes or the sensor
Got new magneto and pickup in.
Not sure if the pump is getting louder or not.
But swoped coils and injectors and no difference.
Need to test each IAP I think, I did a quick test where I clamped each hose in turn, they reacted completely differently, rear one immediately the revs changed, front one did nothing for quite a few seconds. They have new hoses as were split (that’s what I originally thought the issue was!) , so plan is to test each IAP as I can’t remember if I have, then double check the front throttle body again for anything which could be leaking.
if all the sensors, wiring and piping is OK could it be valve clearances? Starting to clutch at straws now.
- I took the throttle bodies off, all hoses look good.
- Bench tested the ISCV and SAV, both OK.
- Reassembled and it ran, very fast idle.
- Connected up a pair of gauges to the throttle bodies and rebalanced them, it ran better.
- Adjusted the Throttle/Idle screw stop as I noticed that the butterflies were not fully closing when I had it on the bench.
Video attached of how it current runs, sometimes it will run ok for a minute, then end up as in the video, eventually it will stop. Also seems very hot very quickly. Fan turns on though.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fa1UlIgx0WlFONxzNlTERhag
Hello, I’ve recently bought a GT650R and I need a new wiring harness. I’ve spoken to Marcel about it and he said that I have a discontinued ECU. It has a mitsubishi logo on it. If anyone can help me make or find a harness, that would be amazing!
keep an eye on eBay for one, but other than that it would be easiest to repair. Get yourself an 8×4 foot sheet of ply, mdf or similar. You can then pin the current loom to it, mark all the connectors and then do a continuity test for each wire.
How will I know which loom to get from eBay?
when I bought mine, I checked the ECU plugs to make sure they were the correct type, but even then I still had issues as there was slight differences, such as the connector for the dash/lights was wired slightly different (different order in the connector block)
Hello, I’ve recently bought a GT650R and I need a new wiring harness. I’ve spoken to Marcel about it and he said that I have a discontinued ECU. It has a mitsubishi logo on it. If anyone can help me make or find a harness, that would be amazing!
keep an eye on eBay for one, but other than that it would be easiest to repair.
Get yourself an 8×4 foot sheet of ply, mdf or similar. You can then pin the current loom to it, mark all the connectors and then do a continuity test for each wire.When it does die it usually starts fine. Sometimes just with the smallest amount of throttle, others not,
Had a very quick look today, starts with the smallest amount of throttle. Was idling and then I was popping around to see if I could find any dodgy pipes and it started to drop to about 1.5k then increase to about 4, then again and again. Just pulsing.
Planning to strip the throttle bodies, SAV and ISCV from it and double check all electrical items appear OK and there’s no splits in any pipes.
I have this feeling it’s a connection or pipe as last time it stopped I had had my hand in there testing the thermostat.
Sensor fitted, got it setup as per instructions on here (has the “c” with the “-” above it, and not just “c” on its own). It now idles at around 3-4K and then drops, but then dies.
ISCV seems ok when bench tested. So I’m thinking I need to double check the SAV, pipes and also the Lambda sensor (as the loom and sensor were both missing the plug so I have fitted one, but perhaps miss wired). No error codes.
Getting closer but not quite there. Funny though that last year it was running on the drive for ages.
Ended up with the tank lifted on some timber. One injector was not working and someone who’s previously messed with it had the throttle bodies massively out of balance. Once is sorted then it’s smooth and running just now it’s idling at about 4k
turns out to be the tps, tested as per the manual and it’s reading 4.8 kohm’s closed and 0.48 when throttle fully open.
its a 09 Mitsubishi ecu with the 2 hole TPS, I assume the one in the shop will do?
Can you believe she stopped running whilst someone was viewing her! Plugs were wet with fuel and black, found both hose that go from the throttle bodies to the air pressure sensors had splits in!. Hoping that’s why it was running so poor, I must have stretched them as they were very tight. But then wouldn’t start once I replaced the hoses, turns out the starter had stopped working (overworked over the past year!!), got new brushes on the way as one is down to nothing and fingers crossed she’s then run again.
It runs! Rough, but it’s running. I took the coil off, tried another and it sparked, refitted the original and it was weak. Ran some emery over the contacts and its helped. No idea why it stopped though.
So now it’s running I have decided to part ways. I’ll put a for sale post on the forum and you’ll see it on FB.
Thanks for everyone’s help over the past year, its been a great learning experience and project.
That was my thought with the pump running. Just odd it died and then no spark on either. Once I manage to test it I’ll reply, currently requiring an old CB350 for the father in law and also need to balance the carbs on the CBR so might be a week.
Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors. But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
clutch switch is new, side stand switch removed, right switch seems to work (cuts pump of if flicked), cleaned ecu plug. Might have another coil somewhere. Just wouldn’t have thought they would both go at the same time.
Not had much time today. But I put the freshly charged battery on and got the following results:
old ecu shows c41 (fuel relay error)
new ecu does not show any errors (no FI light)
neither will spark, but it turns turn over and everything else work, fuel pump primes etc.
it’s been nearly a year since I last updated on the GTR woes….
shortly after my last post the bike stopped sparking, it was running on the stand, and fizzled out. Never managed to sort it out and due to having another bike, the 650 got pushed to the back of the garage.
Till now….
Recap, bike was running rough with C41 error. Had a new fuel pump, wiring loom and cleaned the injectors. Ran but then it stopped.
Today I managed to get a replacement ECU, I put it on, turned the key and got c21 error. I then checked the Pick Up connector, all looked ok, and Ohms are fine. Reconnected and still c21. I tried to start the bike and the c21 cleared! But c41 replaced it!
noted the battery is now low so it’s on charge and will see what happens with a full battery tomorrow.
if I don’t get to the bottom of it this time then she’ll have to go :(.
might just try a replacement relay, even though I have swopped then around.
Good to hear she’s now running. Mine just keeps throwing new issues every time I fix one lol. I think once you have a running bike the mechanicals is the easy bit, so I’m sure you’ll be able to get the rest sorted easily.
I believe that’s a late 2008/ early 2009. It’s the same as mine.
I put a wiring guide on the forum which may help, have a look in the DIY guides section.
I found that wilst my loom was 2008, there were some slight differences than the diagrams in the service manuals.
if you pin it to a board you can unwrap any damage or changed parts and rewire.
